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THE  LAND  OF  THE  NEW 
GUINEA  PYGMIES 


Dr.  Marshall  and  Pygmies 

Dr.  Marshall  and  the  first  two  pygmies  who  visited  our  ca.np.  The  stiing  bags  contain  all  their 
worldly  possessions.  Dr.  Marshall  is  5 ft.  9 in.  in  height,  so  by  comparison  tne  small  stature  of  the 
pygmies  will  be  understood. 


THE  LAND 

OF  THE 

NEW  GUINEA  PYGMIES 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  STORY  OF  A PIONEER  JOURNEY 
OF  EXPLORATION  INTO  THE  HEART  OF 
NEW  GUINEA 


BY 

v 

CAPTAIN  C.  G.  RAWLING,  C.I.E.,  F.R.G.S. 

SOMERSET  LIGHT  INFANTRY 

AUTHOR  OF  “THE  GREAT  PLATEAU,”  &C.,  &C. 


With  48  Illustrations  & a Map 


PHILADELPHIA 

J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 

LONDON:  SEELEY,  SERVICE  6-  CO.  LTD. 

l9'3 


TO 

Sir  CLEMENTS  R.  MARKHAM,  K.C.B.,  D.Sc.,  F.R.S.,  F.S.A. 

(LATE  PRESIDENT  OF  THE  ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY) 

TO  WHOSE  EXPLORATIONS  AND  RESEARCH  WE  ARE  SO 


HEAVILY  INDEBTED  ; TO  WHOM  EXPLORERS 
AND  GEOGRAPHERS  ARE  UNDER 


SO  GREAT  AN  OBLIGATION 


PREFACE 

My  best  thanks  are  due  to  H.  S.  Harrison,  Esq., 
D.Sc.,  F.R.A.I.,  for  his  monograph  on  the  Pygmies 
which  I have  ventured  to  introduce  into  this  book  as 
Chapter  XIX.  Not  only  is  it  a valuable  addition  to 
the  scientific  results  of  the  expedition,  but  it  suggests  a 
line  of  thought  which  may  be  followed  with  advantage 
by  all  those  who  are  interested  in  the  origin  of  the 
living  races  of  man.  References  and  ultra- scientific 
terms  have  been  omitted  in  order  to  bring  before  the 
general  reader  the  trend  of  present  thought  on  this 
subject. 


vii 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I 

Life  in  the  sixteenth  century — Gallant  pioneers — A Portuguese 
explorer — Discovery  of  New  Guinea — Dutch  enterprise — 
Famous  travellers — Native  hostility — European  annexation 
— The  Dutch  section — An  unknown  country  . 


CHAPTER  II 

Organising  an  expedition— Learning  by  experience — Forming  the 
party — The  survey  staff — Transport  arrangements — The  food- 
problem — Ill-chosen  supplies — En  route — Dutch  courtesy — 
Enlarging  the  staff — The  line  of  advance — Java — Due  east 
— A curious  prison  regime— Dobo — The  island  of  New  Guinea 
— The  Mimika  district — The  coast-line 


CHAPTER  III 

First  impressions — A doubtful  reception — First  overtures— 
Boarded  by  savages — Exemplary  behaviour — Into  the  un- 
known— The  Mimika  River — An  enthusiastic  welcome — 
Wakatimi — A village  community — Selecting  a site — Un- 
mannerly curiosity 


CHAPTER  IV 

Coast  and  up-river  tribes — The  Papuan — Albinos — Native  hair- 
dressing— Personal  adornments — Native  costume — Civilisa- 
tion and  morality — Compulsory  clothing — Widow’s  weeds 
— Male  attire — Improving  nature — The  drunken  savage — 
Corporal  punishment— Treatment  of  children — Female  sub- 
jugation— Native  diet — A curious  delicacy — A fertile  soil — 
Native  indolence  ........ 


PAGES 


17-25 


26-39 


40-52 


53-67 


IX 


CONTEXTS 


CHAPTER  V 

Shark-fishing — Poor  sport — Barter  and  exchange — A primitive 
aboriginal — TJgly  rumours — Cannibalism— An  open  question — 
Difficulties  of  pioneering — Learning  the  language — A Papuan 
canoe — Buying  a fleet 


CHAPTER  VI 

A missing  comrade — A fruitless  search — A heavy  blow- — Unprofit- 
able zeal  — River  navigation  — Collecting  transport  — The 
Mimika  River  — Difficult  navigation  — River  flora  — River 
fauna  — Big  game  — Wallaby  and  cuscus — Insect  pests  — 
Snakes — A day  of  surprises — An  extraordinary  welcome 


CHAPTER  VII 

Parimau — Single  combat — Treatment  of  wives — Towards  the  hills 
— Forest  growth — Woodcraft — The  Kapare — Preparing  for  an 
attack — Negotiating — Panic — Wild  scenery — Difficulties  with 
coolies — Friendly  villages — Difficult  canoeing — Rain — Short 
rations 


CHAPTER  VIH 

Unpleasant  work — Chasing  pygmies— Captured  pygmies — Pygmy 
equipment — Primitive  methods — Pygmy  history — Penetrat- 
ing the  mountains — Stalking  human  game — Brave  Pygmies — 
Land  of  the  Pygmies — Attempts  to  penetrate  the  country 
— Hill  plantations — Fresh  line  of  advance  . 


CHAPTER  IX 

Parimau — A promising  farmyard — Native  dogs — Pet  animals — 
A cassowary — Up  the  Mimika — Arduous  travelling — Capsised 
—The  language — “ Oewera-mina  ” — Birth,  marriage,  death — 
Disease  — Burial  — Medicine — A brisk  market  in  skulls  — 
Religion — Courage  of  the  natives — Useful  electric  torch  . 

X 


PAGES 


68-79 


80-94 


95-107 


108-121 


122-141 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  X 

The  track  to  Ibo — The  Tuaba  River — Inundations— Tattoo  marks 
Hospitality — A critical  moment — Expeditious  house  moving 
— A zoological  collection — The  bower-bird — Birds  of  paradise 
— Arrival  of  fresh  coolies  — Poling  and  paddling  — Trade 
articles 


CHAPTER  XI 

A village  brawl — Cooled  ardour — A pig  festival — Highway  robbery 
—Restitution — Theft — Dishonoured  notes — Wife  beating — 
Our  steam-launch — A transformation — The  Dreadnought . 


CHAPTER  XII 

The  village  of  Nime — An  inundated  village — A timely  rescue — 
Barter  and  exchange — Clubs — Strategy — Second  trip  up  the 
Kaiqua 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Coast  and  up-river  natives — The  headman  of  Nime — A dignified 
character — Native  curiosity — Photographs  and  pictures — 
Native  drawings — Novelty  and  amusement— Scenery  on  the 
Atoeka — An  albino — Buying  a motor  launch — Collapse  of  a 
village — A miserable  experience — Halley’s  comet — An  enjoy- 
able change  .......... 


CHAPTER  XIV 

Up  the  Wataikwa — A stampede  of  carriers — A toilsome  retreat 
— Vicarious  punishment  — Disappointing  behaviour  — New 
Guinea  flies — The  wet  season — Crossing  the  Kamura — The 
hidden  baggage — Difficult  surveying — Alternative  plans — 
The  course  of  the  Wataikwa — Pleasant  speculations — A pre- 
carious position — Cutting  through  the  forest — Hampered 
work — A turbulent  stream — Hewing  and  cutting— Dense 
vegetation — Dreary  work 


PAGES 


142-156 


157-172 


173-180 


181-195 


196-210 


XI 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XV 

Cheerless  prospects — Shattered  hopes — Ill-used  Gurkhas — Fresh 
stores — A bolting  gun-bearer — Birds  of  paradise — Return  to 
the  Wataikwa — Difficulties  of  surveying — Photographing  the 
natives 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Floods  at  Parimau — A burial — Depressing  circumstances — A suc- 
cessful clearing — Natives’  idea  of  supply  and  demand — 
Mosquitoes  and  leeches — The  value  of  medicine — Mortality 
of  the  expedition — Beri-beri — Malaria  ..... 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Illness  of  Goodfellow — A cheerless  place — Our  ill-fated  launch — 
The  art  of  poling — A hearty  welcome — Propitiating  the  river 
gods  — Scarcity  of  game  — Loss  of  canoes  — A rain-soaked 
country— Migration — Valuable  detail  work—  Pygmy  villages 
— The  expedition  split  up — Lost  coolies 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Tapiro  Mountain — The  home  of  the  pygmies — Effects  of  the  floods 
— A silent  march — Nervous  carriers — Excited  pygmies — A 
poor  joke — Churlish  hosts — Physical  characteristics — Dress 
— Personal  treasures — Head-dresses — Plainsman  and  pygmy 
— A struggle  for  existence — Clearings — Elusive  women — The 
incomprehensible  white  man — Superior  plainsmen — My  sus- 
picious guide — A hostile  headsman — Timid  women-folk — Our 
departure — Measurements  of  pygmies  ..... 


CHAPTER  XIX 

Dwarfs  and  giants — The  pygmy  question — Negritos  or  negrillos 
— Head-form — Origin  of  pygmies — Various  views — An  open 
question — Pygmy  culture — Weapons — Fire-making — The  use 
of  stone — Arts  and  crafts —Decorative  art — Social  and  tribal 
organisation — Status — Antiquity 

xii 


TAOES 


211-221 


222-233 


234-245 


246-264 


265-278 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XX 

Return  to  the  coast — No  coolies — A fine  dancing  hall — Native 
music — Dancing — The  tocsin  of  war — A false  alarm — A peace- 
ful time — Myriads  of  crabs — Native  children— Children’s 
games — Methods  of  fishing — Brush  turkey  .... 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Unpromising  coolies — The  problem  of  the  hills— Our  motor  boat 
— Difficult  navigation — Interested  motives — A double  murder 
—Organising  the  advance— The  advance  to  the  mountains — 
Papuans  and  the  axes — A change  in  the  river — Crossing  the 
Wataikwa — A.  flooded  river — Coal — Rock  formation — Unpro- 
mising prospects — An  arduous  climb— A grand  outlook  . 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Searching  for  a ford  — A dangerous  undertaking  — A plucky 
Gurkha — Building  a bridge— Second  stage  of  our  advance 
— The  stores  an  important  factor— Effects  of  temperature 
— Bad  going — Reduced  rations — Miserable  coolies — A race 
with  the  clouds — Success — A fine  view — The  Nassau  range 
— Oil  and  minerals — The  Utakwa  River — Mount  Idenburg 
— Tapiro  Mountain — Plains  and  rivers — Doctor  Lorentz — The 
price  of  success — The  return  journey — A feast  and  its  results 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Preparing  to  leave — Bashful  pygmy  women— A hurricane — Motor 
boat  on  fire — The  Atoeka  River — A cordial  welcome — Inspect- 
ing a village — Dancing  halls — A return  visit — Keen  traders 
— The  Kamura — A collision — Kamura  village — A wild-looking 
crew  — Attacked  — An  erratic  motor  — A glorious  bay  — 
Gorgeous  coloured  fish — Return  to  Wakatimi  .... 

xiii 


PAGES 


279-290 


291-307 


308-326 


327-341 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

PAGES 

Wania  Bay — An  unexpected  bar — Our  unfortunate  motor  boat — 

A lost  propeller — A critical  position — Salving  the  launch — A 
humorous  comparison — The  last  voyage — A welcome  sight — 

An  unexpected  reinforcement 342-352 

CHAPTER  XXV 

Completed  work — Results  of  the  expedition — Disappjinted  hopes 
— Relief  ships — Anticipating  trouble — Scenes  of  turmoil — 
Civilising  influence  — Dobo  — Dispersal  of  the  Expedition  — 

Dutch  hospitality 353-360 

Ixdex 361-366 


XIV 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Dr.  Marshall  and  Pygmies  ..... 

Frontispiece 

PAGE 

A Forest  Impassable  for  Man  ..... 

4 6 

Wakatimi  Village  ....... 

46 

Types  of  Papuans  ....... 

. 50 

A Papuan  Family  ....... 

. 56 

Widows’  Weeds  ....... 

. 60 

A Native  Beauty  ....... 

64 

On  the  Lower  Reaches  of  the  Mimika  River 

. 76 

Canoe  Building — Roughly  Shaping  a Canoe 

. 78 

Canoe  Building — Levering  the  Prepared  Log  . 

. 78 

At  Parimau  ........ 

• 92 

An  Elderly  Widow  ....... 

92 

In  the  Village  of  Parimau  ...... 

• • 96 

Pygmies  Making  Fire  ...... 

. 112 

Pygmies  of  the  Tapiro  Tribe  ..... 

. 116 

Wamberimi  Village  ....... 

. 124 

Parimau  Camp  ........ 

. 124 

An  Idle  Dandy  of  Parimau  ..... 

. 134 

Papuans  Experimenting  with  Soap  .... 

. 134 

Tattooed  Woman  ....... 

. 144 

Parimau  ......... 

. 144 

XV 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Men  Securing  and  Binding  the  Boars  . . . . 160 

The  Slaughter  Platform  . . . . . . . 160 

A Pig  Feast — Wailing  and  Lamentation  . . . . .162 

A Pig  Feast — Women  Crying  Over  the  Carcases  . . . 162 

Forcing  the  Canoes  Past  the  Timber  Blocks  on  the  Mimika  . 178 

A Party  of  Papuans  Travelling  Fast  on  the  Kaiqua  River  . . 178 

A Headman  . . . . . . . . . .182 

Effects  of  a Flood  . . . . . . . . .192 

Greater  Bird  of  Paradise  ........  216 

A Patriarch  ..........  224 

View  Looking  East  from  Parimau  Clearing  ....  228 

“ The  Idle,  Slothful  Savage  ” . . . . . . . 228 

Boy  Scouts  ..........  228 

Tapiro  Pygmies  .........  250 

A Typical  Pygmy  House  ........  256 

At  Wamberimi  ..........  262 

Tapiro  Pygmies — A Friendly  Attitude  .....  262 

Plainsmen  and  Pygmies  ........  268 

A Dancing  Hall  .........  282 

Tapiro  Pygmies — Discussing  the  Situation  ....  282 

From  Above  Iwaka  Camp  ........  304 

The  Wataikwa  River  ........  304 

The  Gurkha  Jangbir  . . . . . . . .310 

Spanning  the  Torrent  . . . . . . . .310 

Women  Using  the  Stone  Axe  . . . . . . .314 

The  Camp  at  5400  Feet  . . . . . . . .314 

Suspicious  Movements  .......  333 


XVI 


THE  LAND  OF  THE 
NEW  GUINEA  PYGMIES 


CHAPTER  I 

Life  in  the  sixteenth  century — Gallant  pioneers — A Portuguese  explorer — 
Discovery  of  New  Guinea — Dutch  enterprise — Famous  travellers — 
Native  hostility — European  annexation — The  Dutch  section — An 
unknown  country 

DURING  the  sixteenth  century  Europe  was  in  a 
state  of  perpetual  strife. 

Out  of  a chaos  of  religious  conflicts,  social  strife, 
and  prolonged  war,  emerged  the  Renaissance.  Its 
advent  was  heralded  alike  by  the  outspoken,  un- 
compromising utterances  of  Luther,  and  the  polished, 
cynical  essays  of  Erasmus.  It  was  necessary  to  every 
country,  every  profession,  every  trade.  To  the  masses 
life  in  Europe  had  become  intolerable.  Religion,  which 
then  played  the  most  important  part  in  men’s  lives,  had 
passed  imperceptibly  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous, 
and  thence  to  the  grotesque.  Vice  in  every  form  had 
reached  its  culminating  point  in  the  excesses  of  the 
Borgias.  Taste  in  art  and  literature  was  degenerate 
and  depraved  to  a degree.  War  had  satiated  the 
highest  in  the  land  with  conquest  and  plunder,  and 
sickened  the  lowest  with  misery  and  destitution. 

Thus  it  came  about  that  men,  bolder  than  their 

17 


B 


LIFE  IN  THE  SIXTEENTH  CENTURY 

fellows,  disgusted  with  life  in  Europe,  went  forth  to  find 
new  homes  across  the  Atlantic,  limitless  to  them  and 
uncharted,  beset  with  unknown  perils. 

It  is  to  the  intolerable  state  of  life  in  Europe  before 
the  Renaissance  that  we  owe  the  discovery  of  the  New 
World.  With  the  progress  which  accompanied  the 
Reformation,  trade  helped  to  carry  forward  the  work  of 
populating  new  countries  and  the  fashioning  of  the  map 
of  our  world  of  to-day. 

Of  all  countries,  Spain  and  Portugal  perhaps  derived 
the  greatest  advantage  from  the  Renaissance.  It  is 
to  them,  therefore,  that  we  chiefly  owe  the  discovery 
of  countries  across  the  seas.  Spanish  names  are  to 
be  found  on  many  a promontory  and  inlet  of  the 
New  World — everlasting  monuments  to  her  dauntless 
seamen.  In  the  Americas  these  pioneers  were  soon 
followed  by  British  adventurers  and  merchants.  The 
names  of  Grenville  and  Hawkins,  Raleigh  and  Drake, 
and  of  many  others  whose  gallant  deeds  have  made 
history,  rise  before  us  as  we  turn  over  the  pages  of  the 
past.  Where  they  cut  their  way  through  tangled 
jungle,  or  waded,  staggering  in  the  slime  of  some  pesti- 
lential marsh,  or  fought  desperately  with  their  backs  to 
their  beached  ships  against  tribes  to  whom  mercy  was 
unknown,  now  stand  teeming  cities,  with  their  busy 
streets  and  crowded  markets,  or  prosperous  farmsteads 
in  the  midst  of  their  shady  pastures  and  fields  of  corn. 
Their  work  has  been  continued  and  completed  by  suc- 
cessive generations,  toiling  with  axe  and  plough  as  the 
pioneers  of  future  Empire. 

And  yet  there  remains  one  country,  the  greater 
part  of  which  is  as  unchanged  to-day  as  when  the  first 
Portuguese  seaman  sighted  it  wellnigh  four  centuries 

18 


A PORTUGUESE  EXPLORER 


ago.  We  can  imagine  the  crew,  weary  with  their 
year-long  voyage,  weak  probably  from  scurvy,  straining 
their  eyes  landward  as  the  ship,  foul  and  encrusted, 
slowly  approached  the  shore,  and  with  what  excite- 
ment and  wonder  they  surveyed  the  tangled  stretches 
of  jungle,  mist-veiled,  slashed  here  and  there  with  the 
gleam  of  water,  backed  by  mountains  unknown  and 
mysterious,  and  seamed  with  dark  and  gloomy  gorges. 
For  such  is  New  Guinea  to-day. 

It  was  Jorge  de  Meneses,  sent  from  Malacca  to  com- 
mand the  Portuguese  at  the  Spice  Islands,  who  (it  is 
believed)  in  1527  was  the  first  to  land  in  New  Guinea. 
In  this  remote  corner  of  the  world  existed  the  most 
deadly  rivalry  between  Spain  and  Portugal.  Early  in 
the  sixteenth  century  a Papal  Bull  divided  the  entire 
East  Indies  between  the  two  countries.  The  dividing- 
line  was  a meridian  drawn  in  the  Atlantic,  then  arrived 
at  by  the  roughest  of  dead  reckoning,  which  unfortu- 
nately ran  close  to  the  valuable  Moluccas,  the  Spice 
Islands,  and  constant  strife  therefore  arose  as  to  its 
exact  position.  The  Spaniards  reached  the  Spice 
Islands  by  way  of  the  Pacific  ; the  Portuguese  from 
India  and  Malacca.  The  immediate  result  of  this 
rivalry  was  the  discovery  of  New  Guinea,  lying  directly 
in  the  route  to  the  Moluccas.  Meneses  attempted  a 
new  route  around  the  North  of  Borneo,  and,  landing  at 
New  Guinea,  remained  there  several  months  without 
realising  at  all  the  importance  or  size  of  the  island. 
The  natives  of  the  Moluccas  called  the  inhabitants 
Papuans,  on  account  of  their  woolly  hair,  and  Meneses 
therefore  called  the  island  Papua.  When  the  monsoon 
changed,  he  gladly  sailed  away  to  join  his  comrades  at 
Tanati, 


19 


DISCOVERY  OF  NEW  GUINEA 

The  next  to  touch  on  the  shores  of  New  Guinea  was 
the  Spaniard,  Alvaro  de  Saavedra,  who  sailed  across  the 
Pacific  from  South  America,  where  Pizarro  was  fighting 
desperately  to  carry  out  his  conquest  of  Peru. 

In  1529  Charles  V sold  the  Spanish  claims  on  the 
Spice  Islands  to  the  Crown  of  Portugal.  Eight  years 
later,  in  1537,  Grijalva  and  Alverado  were  despatched 
from  Mexico  by  Hernan  Cortes.  They  were  wrecked 
on  the  north  coast,  where  Grijalva  was  murdered  by  his 
mutinous  crew,  who  were  themselves  taken  prisoners  by 
the  natives.  The  castaways  were  finally  released  by 
the  Portuguese  and  taken  to  the  Moluccas. 

In  1545  the  island  received  the  name  by  which  we 
know  it  to-day.  Ortis  de  Retes,  thinking  himself  the 
discoverer,  named  it  New  Guinea,  on  account  of  the 
resemblance  the  inhabitants  bore  to  those  of  the  West 
Coast  of  Africa.  Only  the  British  section  of  the  island 
now  retains  the  more  ancient  designation  of  Papua. 
So  far  only  the  northern  coast  had  been  visited,  but 
in  1606  Louis  Vaiz  de  Torres  landed  in  Milne  Bay 
on  the  southern  shore.  He  made  extensive  observa- 
tions, mapped  a certain  portion  of  the  coast,  and 
discovered  the  straits  between  New  Guinea  and  Aus- 
tralia which  now  bear  his  name.  All  records,  however, 
of  his  discovery  were  lost  till  1762,  when  they  were 
found  by  Dalrymple  in  the  archives  of  Manilla,  though 
his  map  was  not  brought  to  light  till  1878.  Any 
attempt,  however,  to  colonise  New  Guinea,  such  as 
was  taking  place  in  the  Americas,  invariably  met  with 
disaster. 

Early  in  the  seventeenth  century  Holland,  usurping 
the  place  of  the  declining  Portuguese  Empire,  appeared 
upon  the  scene.  Captain  Willem  Jansz  of  the  yacht 

20 


DUTCH  ENTERPRISE 

Dyske  was  the  first  Dutchman  to  land.  The  in- 
habitants, however,  proved  hostile,  and  attacked  and 
killed  eleven  of  his  thirty  sailors.  Another  attempt 
under  Schouten  and  Le  Maine  in  1616  likewise  failed, 
many  of  the  crew  being  killed  and  wounded.  Janz 
Carstensz,  travelling  eastwards,  passed  the  island  in 
1623.  He  was  the  first  to  place  on  record  the  existence 
of  a mountain  range  possessing  snowfields  and  glaciers. 
To  perpetuate  this  discovery,  his  name  has  been  given 
to  the  highest  visible  snow-peak,  and  it  is  to  this  dis- 
trict that  the  travels  recounted  in  this  book  mainly 
refer.  In  1642  came  the  famous  navigator  Abel  Janez 
Tasman.  Little  more  was  heard  of  the  island  till  the 
year  1700,  when  William  Dampier,  despatched  by 
George  III,  sailed  round  the  eastern  end  and  dis- 
covered the  channel  separating  the  island  of  New 
Britain  from  that  of  New  Guinea. 

In  1714  the  island  was  nominally  ceded  to  the 
Dutch  by  the  Sultan  of  Tidore,  this  being  recognised 
in  London  in  1824. 

For  fifty  years  no  traveller  approached  the  coast, 
and  it  was  not  until  the  arrival  of  the  Englishman, 
Captain  Carteret,  in  1767,  that  any  further  discoveries 
of  importance  were  made  in  this  part  of  the  world. 
The  following  year  Bougainville  touched  these  shores. 
In  1770  Captain  Cook  visited  the  island,  in  1771  Son- 
neret,  and  the  East  India  Company  in  1775.  In  1784 
England  obtained  the  right  of  free  trade.  In  1791 
arrived  MacCluer  and  Edwards,  1792  Captains  Bligh 
and  Portlock,  1793  D’Entrecasteau,  and  in  the  same 
year  Mate  Dell  took  possession  of  some  islands  in 
Torres  Straits  for  England,  and  Captain  Hayes  of  the 
East  India  Company,  in  addition  to  other  discoveries, 

21 


FAMOUS  TRAVELLERS 


established  a station  on  the  north  coast ; but  the 
natives,  as  usual  resenting  any  attempt  to  occupy  the 
country,  forced  him  to  retire  a few  years  later. 

From  this  period  it  would  be  tedious  and  almost 
impossible  to  give  a complete  list  of  all  the  famous 
travellers  who  have  contributed  something  to  the 
world’s  knowledge  of  the  coast  of  New  Guinea  and 
neighbouring  islands.  It  may,  however,  be  interesting 
to  mention  a few  of  the  most  renowned. 

Lieutenant  MacCluer  surveyed  large  portions  of 
the  western  coast  in  1790,  and  was  finally  lost  at  sea 
in  1795.  In  1826  IvolfF  arrived ; in  1827  Admiral 
D’Urville  completed  a valuable  survey  of  the  north 
coast.  Lieutenant  Yule  landed  in  1846  and  took  pos- 
session of  a portion  of  the  south-east  coast  in  the  name 
of  Great  Britain.  The  largest  river  was  discovered  in 
1845  by  the  gunboat  Fly,  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 
In  1858  came  Wallace,  and  thirteen  years  later  Teys- 
mann.  Admiral  Moresby  landed  in  1875,  followed  by 
D ’Albertis,  Macgregor,  Maclay  and  others,  amongst 
whom  must  not  be  forgotten  that  famous  missionary 
the  Rev.  James  Chalmers,  who  was  afterwards  so 
treacherously  murdered  on  the  coast.  The  resentment 
of  the  natives  to  any  attempt  at  occupation,  and  their 
implacable  hostility,  resulted  in  many  brutal  murders 
and  many  complete  disasters.  In  1890  a British  steam 
yacht  was  wrecked  to  the  west  of  the  Mimika  River, 
and  the  entire  crew  killed  and  eaten.  The  disaster  to 
the  Pell  occurred  in  1900,  a similar  fate  befalling  the 
officers  and  crew  near  the  present  position  of  the  Dutch 
settlement  of  Merauke. 

On  the  submission  of  the  Sultan  of  Tidore  to  the 
Dutch  in  1714,  the  latter,  as  suzerain  power,  acquired 

22 


EUROPEAN  ANNEXATION 


all  possessions  of  the  former  ruler  and  claimed  the 
territory  from  the  most  westerly  point  eastwards  to 
the  141st  meridian.  This  boundary,  with  slight  modi- 
fications, was  accepted  by  the  Powers  in  1893,  but  it 
was  not  until  1899  that  Holland  took  over  direct  con- 
trol of  her  section. 

By  Imperial  Letters  Patent  issued  to  the  German 
New  Guinea  Company,  Germany  laid  claim  to  and 
annexed  the  north-eastern  portion  of  the  island  in  1884. 

The  south-western  section  was  formally  taken  over 
by  Mr.  Chester  by  order  of  the  Premier  of  Queensland 
in  1883.  This  act  was  not  confirmed  by  the  Home 
Government,  but  the  territory  was  nevertheless  annexed 
to  the  British  Crown  in  the  following  year,  and  the 
boundary  between  German  and  British  territory  fixed 
in  1885.  To  Germany  went  the  newly  named  Bismarck 
Archipelago. 

Sufficient  has  been  said  to  explain  New  Guinea’s 
meagre  history  and  how  its  land  has  been  parcelled  out 
between  the  three  European  nations.  Of  the  British 
section  of  Papua  much  is  known  ; it  is  partially  civilised, 
and  a considerable  portion  surveyed.  Neither  the  Ger- 
man nor  the  Dutch  sections  are  nearly  so  far  advanced, 
but  Holland  of  late  years  has  displayed  great  zeal  in 
the  exploration  of  her  half  of  the  island,  which,  in 
addition  to  being  twice  as  extensive,  offers  more  serious 
obstacles  to  successful  exploration  than  either  of  the 
other  two. 

During  the  last  two  or  three  years  eight  expeditions 
have  penetrated  into  the  Dutch  section  of  the  island  from 
all  sides,  of  which  the  most  important  are : the  Mam- 
berano  River  Expedition  under  Kapt.  A.  Herderschee, 
October  1909  to  May  1910  ; Humboldt’s  Bay  Boundary 

23 


THE  DUTCH  SECTION 


Commission  under  F.  J.  P.  Sachse,  November  1909  ; the 
Fak-Fak  Expedition  under  Kapt.  Kock;  the  Utakwa 
Expedition  under  Kapt.  J.  Van  der  Bie  and  Lieutenant 
Postema,  March  to  December  1910;  the  Island  River 
Expedition  under  Herr  A.  Schaeffer  and  Kapt.  Van 
der  Ven  ; the  Digul  River  Expedition,  and  the  three 
Expeditions  under  the  well-known  Dr.  Lorentsz,  in  the 
last  of  which  he  reached  his  goal  and  penetrated  to  the 
Wilhelmina  peaks.  He  was  thus  the  first  European  to 
tread  the  snows  of  New  Guinea. 

New  Guinea  as  a whole  still  offers  greater  oppor- 
tunities for  the  explorer,  collector  and  anthropologist, 
than  any  other  portion  of  the  globe. 

During  the  latter  half  of  the  last  century  so  many 
vast  areas  of  the  world’s  surface  yielded  up  their  secrets 
before  the  advance  of  civilisation  that  comparatively 
little  pioneer  exploration  now  remains  to  be  accom- 
plished. New  Guinea  still  resists  the  invader,  and 
though  its  hidden  secrets  are  one  by  one  being  brought 
to  light,  yet  many  years  must  elapse  before  sufficient 
knowledge  of  the  country  can  be  accumulated  even  to 
construct  a sketch  map  of  its  entire  surface,  to  say 
nothing  of  a complete  scientific  examination  of  its 
mammals,  birds,  reptiles,  insects  and  plants,  or  a study 
of  the  many  savage  tribes  which  inhabit  the  highlands 
and  the  plains.  The  chief  reasons  for  its  still  being  an 
almost  terra  incognita  are  to  be  found  in  its  remote 
situation  from  the  ancient  civilised  world  ; its  impene- 
trable forests ; its  rugged  ranges  and  endless  swamps ; 
its  rains  and  fevers,  and  lastly  its  hostile  and  treacherous 
inhabitants,  all  of  which  obstacles  have  frequently 
proved  insurmountable  to  the  trader  and  traveller. 

It  can  be  easily  understood,  therefore,  why  this 

24 


AN  UNKNOWN  COUNTRY 


country  was  selected  as  a virgin  land  in  which  to  work 
when  the  British  Ornithologists’  Union  desired  to  com- 
memorate their  jubilee  by  sending  an  expedition  into  a 
country  hitherto  unexplored.  The  object  of  the  British 
Expedition,  the  adventures  of  which  I shall  relate,  was 
to  explore  that  unknown  country  to  the  east  of  Fak- 
Fak,  and  to  the  west  of  Dr.  Lorentsz’s  Nord  River  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  snowfields  and  glaciers  of  Carstensz 
Peak.  Little  or  nothing  was  known  of  this  great  tract 
of  country  except  what  had  been  learnt  by  a flying 
visit  paid  to  the  Mimika  and  Utakwa  Rivers  a few 
years  before.  It  had  remained  a land  of  mystery, 
impenetrable  as  when  Carstensz  had  first  seen  it  three 
hundred  years  before. 


25 


CHAPTER  II 


Organising  an  expedition — Learning  by  experience — Forming  the  party— 
The  survey  staff — Transport  arrangements — The  food  problem — Ill- 
chosen  supplies — En  route — Dutch  courtesy — Enlarging  the  staff — 
The  line  of  advance — Java — Due  east — A curious  prison  regime — Dobo 
— The  island  of  New  Guinea — The  Mimika  district — The  coast-line 


O the  uninitiated  the  work  involved  in  an  expe- 


dition might  appear  to  commence  on  the  day- 
arranged  for  the  start,  but  this  is  by  no  means  the 
case.  The  organisation  of  an  expedition  requires  the 
ability  of  a thorough  business  man,  combined  with 
an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  special  requirements 
demanded  by  the  nature  of  the  country  to  be  tra- 
versed. The  physical  peculiarities  of  the  country  to 
be  entered,  its  climate,  inhabitants,  local  supplies  and 
means  of  transport,  as  learnt  by  personal  experience  or 
from  information  gathered  from  the  reports  of  former 
travellers,  are  of  the  first  consideration.  Such  know- 
ledge can  be  gained  only  by  months  of  careful  study 
and  thorough  inquiry,  and  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance, for  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  one  weak  link 
may  endanger  the  whole  enterprise,  and  that  for 
each  country  in  the  world  different  arrangements  are 
necessary. 

The  equipment  down  to  the  minutest  detail,  the 
quality  and  quantity  of  the  transport,  the  favourable 
seasons  of  the  year,  the  available  funds,  one’s  com- 
panions, together  with  a host  of  other  points,  all  re- 
quire the  most  careful  consideration  and  thought. 


26 


ORGANISING  AN  EXPEDITION 

Perseverance  and  determination  will  surmount  most 
obstacles,  but  can  never  make  up  for  bad  organisation. 

Even  with  the  exercise  of  the  greatest  forethought 
and  most  careful  preparation  the  plan  of  action  and 
the  arrangements  made  must  be  of  a sufficiently 
elastic  character  to  allow  of  alteration  if  unforeseen 
and  insuperable  difficulties  should  occur,  so  as  to 
avoid  the  dislocation  of  the  whole  organisation. 

A pioneer  expedition  into  an  unknown  land  must 
necessarily  undergo  greater  hardships  and  encounter 
more  unexpected  difficulties  than  one  which  can  profit 
by  the  lessons  of  another,  and  though  the  Mimika 
district  was  a terra  incognita  until  the  landing  of  our 
party,  one  is  compelled  to  acknowledge  that  much 
might  have  been  gained  by  a more  careful  study  and 
proper  appreciation  of  the  trials  and  difficulties  ex- 
perienced by  travellers  in  other  parts  of  the  country. 

Whether  the  scientific  results  would  have  been  of 
greater  value  is  another  question,  but  it  cannot  be 
denied  that  much  life,  time,  and  money  would  have 
been  saved.  Here,  however,  there  were  compensa- 
tions, for,  had  the  correct  river  been  selected  as  the 
line  of  advance,  it  may  be  assumed  that  we  should 
have  reached  the  snows  of  the  central  range ; but,  on 
the  other  hand,  we  should  not  have  made  the  valu- 
able discovery  of  the  existence  of  the  pygmies.  That 
careful  organiser,  Dr.  Lorentsz,  required  three  well- 
equipped  expeditions,  two  on  the  same  river,  carried 
out  in  successive  years,  to  reach  Mount  Juliana,  and 
so  it  may  be  hoped  that  our  next  attempt,  profiting 
by  the  lessons  taught  us  in  the  present  instance,  may 
solve  some  of  the  problems  that  we  left  untouched. 

A committee,  composed  of  members  of  the  Orni- 

27 


FORMING  THE  PARTY 

thologists’  Union,  was  formed,  in  whose  hands  the 
entire  arrangements  were  placed,  and  whose  first 
act  was  to  select  as  leader  to  the  party  Mr.  Walter 
Goodfellow,  a well-known  and  experienced  collector. 
Shortly  afterwards  followed  the  appointments  of  Mr. 
AY.  Stalker  and  Mr.  G.  C.  Shortridge,  who  were  to 
be  responsible  for  the  birds,  mammals,  and  reptiles 
captured.  The  former  had  had  many  years’  experi- 
ence in  the  East,  particularly  in  Northern  Australia 
and  Papua.  The  latter  was  known  throughout  South 
Africa,  Australia,  and  the  East  Indian  Islands,  from 
whence  he  had  brought  many  valuable  collections 
to  the  British  and  other  museums.  Mr.  A.  F.  R. 
AArollaston,  medical  officer,  entomologist,  and  botanist 
to  the  late  Ruwanzori  Expedition,  and  author  of 
that  excellent  book  of  travel,  From  Ruwanzori  to  the 
Congo,  was  appointed  to  the  same  posts  on  this  pre- 
sent expedition.  Thus  composed,  the  personnel  and 
the  plans  would  have  satisfied  the  originators  of  the 
scheme,  but  as  is  so  often  the  case  with  expeditions 
sent  into  unknown  lands,  subscriptions  did  not  come 
in  as  freely  as  was  anticipated,  and  conversely  the 
scope  of  the  work  was  extended.  The  interest  of  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London  was  invoked 
in  that  part  of  the  work  connected  with  exploration 
and  survey,  and  with  their  usual  generosity  where  geo- 
graphical problems  remain  to  be  solved,  they  at  once 
fell  in  with  the  proposal  and  liberally  contributed  to  the 
funds.  While  in  Tibet  I had  had  some  experience  in 
the  construction  of  maps,  so  I applied  for  the  post 
of  surveyor,  and  to  my  intense  satisfaction  obtained  the 
appointment.  My  enthusiasm  was  slightly  damped, 
however,  when  I learnt  that  there  was  to  be  no  survey 

28 


THE  SURVEY  STAFF 

staff,  and  that  I had  to  do  the  work  alone.  When 
I remembered  the  heavy  casualty  lists  of  former  ex- 
peditions in  other  parts  of  the  country  we  were  about 
to  enter,  and  realised  that  if  I were  to  fall  ill  the 
survey  work  would  come  to  an  abrupt  end,  any  uneasi- 
ness on  my  part  as  to  the  result  must  be  excused. 
The  collectors  were  three  in  number,  or  four,  if  we 
include  Mr.  Wollaston,  who  was  likewise  capable  of 
assisting  in  that  work,  while  I,  as  surveyor,  stood  alone. 
After  some  delay  the  sanction  of  the  committee  was 
therefore  obtained  for  an  additional  surveyor  to  be 
appointed,  and  here  I was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain 
the  services  of  one  eminently  suited  to  the  work. 
Dr.  E.  Marshall,  one  of  the  three  who  had  accom- 
panied Sir  E.  Shackleton  on  his  final  advance  to  the 
South  Pole,  had  but  lately  returned  to  England.  On 
the  Antarctic  Expedition  he  had  held  the  posts  of 
medical  officer  and  cartographer,  and  when  the  objects 
of  the  present  expedition  were  explained  to  him  he 
expressed  his  willingness  to  join  as  assistant  surveyor 
and  surgeon.  The  European  staff  was  now  complete. 

Through  the  kindness  of  Sir  Edward  Grey  and  the 
British  Minister  at  the  Hague  permission  had  been 
obtained  from  the  Dutch  Government  for  the  expedi- 
tion to  land  on  the  south  coast  of  Dutch  New  Guinea 
on  any  date  after  January  1,  1910,  together  with  a 
courteous  offer  of  assistance  from  the  authorities  of  the 
Netherlands  India.  The  Dutch  section  of  New  Guinea 
had  been  chosen  on  account  of  the  vast  extent  of  the 
unknown  areas,  and  the  western  half  in  particular, 
because  of  the  proximity  of  the  great  central  range  of 
mountains  to  the  coast,  a district  which  was  thought 
likely  to  contain  unknown  varieties  of  birds  and 

29 


TRANSPORT  ARRANGEMENTS 

mammals.  To  reduce  the  area  still  further  the  Mimika 
district  was  selected  for  the  disembarkation,  as  the  Snow 
Peaks  of  Carstensz  were  reported  to  lie  within  a reason- 
able distance — i.e.  about  seventy  to  eighty  miles  to 
the  north. 

While  the  preliminary  arrangements  were  being 
made  in  London,  Shortridge  was  working  in  Borneo, 
from  whence  it  was  arranged  that  he  should  join  the 
main  party  as  it  passed  through  Java ; and  that  Stalker, 
who  was  likewise  in  the  East,  should  set  out  at  once 
and  enlist  one  hundred  carriers  from  the  various  islands 
scattered  throughout  the  Archipelago.  To  avoid  delay 
ten  ex-military  police  Gurkhas  from  India  were  engaged 
for  the  twofold  object  of  guarding  the  camps  and,  on 
account  of  their  knowledge  of  jungle  life  and  fondness 
for  shooting,  of  collecting  natural  history  specimens. 
These  Gurkhas  were  enrolled  at  Darjeeling  and  sent  to 
Singapore  to  await  our  arrival,  but  as  it  afterwards 
turned  out  they  were  not  much  used  for  the  former 
purpose,  as  an  escort  of  Javanese  troops  was  supplied 
by  the  Dutch.  The  equipment  and  tinned  food  were 
brought  from  England,  and  the  supplies  for  the  coolies 
from  Java  and  Amboina. 

A suitable  and  plentiful  supply  of  food  for  the  whole 
force  is  naturally  of  the  first  importance.  Owing  to 
the  dearth  of  local  supplies  in  New  Guinea,  it  was 
found  necessary  to  import  all  provisions  needed  for  the 
expedition.  It  is  true  that  sago  palms  grow  in  the 
swamps,  but  Malays  are  not  sago  eaters,  and,  in 
addition,  we  wished  to  leave  the  low-lying  ground 
as  soon  as  possible  and  take  to  the  mountains,  where 
sago  trees  do  not  exist. 

Throughout  our  stay  in  the  country  the  numbers  of 

30 


THE  FOOD  PROBLEM 


men  employed  by  the  Dutch  and  British  varied  between 
one  hundred  and  twenty  and  two  hundred,  whose 
rations  were  one  and  a quarter  pounds  of  rice  and  a 
quarter  of  a pound  of  dried  meat  and  fish,  together 
with  tea  and  salt.  Thus  it  will  be  understood  that 
owing  to  the  uncertainty  as  to  when  fresh  stores  might 
be  brought  by  the  visiting  ships,  and  the  lack  of  local 
supplies,  it  was  necessary  to  import  and  stock  an  im- 
mense quantity  of  provisions.  The  preservation  of 
these,  on  account  of  the  excessive  humidity  of  the 
climate,  caused  much  anxiety,  particularly  as  the  con- 
signments of  rice  for  the  first  half-year  arrived  in  sacks, 
and  were  consequently  spoilt  by  the  first  shower  of  rain. 
A noticeable  improvement  took  place  when  the  Dutch 
plan  of  packing  the  rice  in  sealed  kerosene  tins  was 
adopted,  but  the  work  of  closing  the  tins  had  to  be 
performed  with  care,  as  the  slightest  defect  in  soldering 
let  in  the  moisture  with  equally  fatal  results.  From  the 
same  cause  immense  quantities  of  dried  meat  and  fish 
were  at  times  ruined,  as  old  wooden  kerosene  cases  were 
used  to  pack  the  food  in,  and  being  thus  exposed  to 
heat  and  rain,  a few  days  were  sufficient  to  turn  the 
whole  into  a putrid  mass.  Coolies  were  continually 
employed  in  drying  it,  but  with  indifferent  success. 

The  provisions  selected  for  our  own  consumption 
were  of  so  remarkable  a description  that  I am  almost 
tempted  to  reprint  the  list,  but  as  this  might  produce 
unseemly  merriment  amongst  those  who  were  not 
forced  to  consume  them,  and  also  to  show  that  I am 
not  alone  in  my  opinion  as  to  their  unsuitability,  I will 
quote  from  Dr.  Wollaston’s  report : “ Some  of  our 
own  stores  were,  to  say  the  least,  ill-chosen.  It  ap- 
peared that  a large  quantity  of  stores  had  been  brought 

81 


ILL-CHOSEX  STPPLIES 

from  the  Shackleton  Expedition,  which  had  returned 
from  the  Antarctic  a few  months  before  we  left 
England.  However  suitable  those  provisions  may 
have  been  for  a Polar  expedition,  they  were  not  the 
sort  of  thing  one  would  have  chosen  for  a journey  in 
the  tropics.  F or  instance,  large  tins  of  4 bully-beef  ’ are 
excellent  in  a cold  climate,  but  when  you  open  them 
near  the  Equator  you  find  that  they  consist  of  pallid 
lumps  of  pink  flesh  swimming  in  a nasty  gravy.  Pea- 
soup  and  pea-flour,  of  which  we  had  nearly  four  hundred 
pounds’  weight,  strike  terror  into  the  stoutest  heart  when 
the  temperature  is  86  degrees  in  the  shade.  Pickles 
are  all  very  well  in  their  way  for  those  that  like  them, 
but  one  hundred  and  sixty  bottles  was  more  than  a 
generous  allowance.  . . . The  packing  was  almost  as 
remarkable  as  the  choice  of  the  stores  themselves ; 
they  were  secured  in  strong  packing-cases  of  large 
and  variable  size,  fastened  with  bands  of  iron  and 
an  incredible  number  of  nails,  suitable  enough  to 
withstand  the  banging  Polar  storms,  but  not  well 
adapted  to  their  present  purpose.  The  boxes  were  all 
too  big  for  convenient  transport,  and  as  each  one  was 
filled  with  food  of  one  kind  only  every  box  had  to  be 
opened  at  once  and  a selection  made  from  them."’ 

Let  me  add  that  besides  “ bully-beef”  the  principal 
articles  of  food  were  tinned  salmon  and  fresh  herrings. 
It  will  be  understood  that  ringing  the  changes  on  the 
above  for  eight  months  not  only  palled  on  the  appetite, 
but  was  likely  so  to  lower  the  constitution  as  to  render 
it  unfit  to  withstand  the  hardships  necessitated  by  a 
prolonged  sojourn  in  jungle  and  swamp.  Such  neces- 
saries as  sugar,  candles,  kc.  were  omitted  amidst  the 
luxuries  mentioned  above.  At  the  end  of  eight  months, 

32 


EN  ROUTE 

as  a consequence  of  our  representations  as  to  the  un- 
suitability of  the  supplies,  an  excellent  store  was  sent 
out  from  England,  well  chosen  and  properly  packed. 

As  the  story  of  our  travels  proceeds,  my  readers 
will  be  able  to  form  their  own  opinion  as  to  the  per- 
fection, or  otherwise,  of  the  transport  arrangements. 

We  left  England  on  27th  October  1909,  and 
reached  Singapore  three  weeks  later.  Here  we  found 
the  Gurkhas  living  in  the  Native  Infantry  Lines,  feel- 
ing quite  at  home,  but  much  ruffled  in  temper  by 
being  repeatedly  taken  for  Japanese  by  the  native 
population  of  this  cosmopolitan  port,  who,  to  the 
Gurkhas’  surprise,  said  that  they  had  never  heard  of 
the  existence  of  this  hardy  mountain  race.  On  the 
21st  November  we  sailed  in  the  Dutch  packet  for 
Batavia,  the  capital  of  Java,  and  reached  there  two 
days  later.  On  the  way  we  passed  the  scene  of  the 
disaster  of  the  ill-fated  French  mail,  La  Seyne,  which 
had  been  sunk  a few  days  before  in  a collision  with  the 
British  ship  Onda.  Her  masts  were  just  visible  above 
the  water,  with  lights  burning  to  mark  the  spot  where 
many  bodies  still  lay  entombed,  and  where,  it  is  said, 
scores  of  the  passengers  and  crew  were  devoured  by 
sharks  as  they  attempted  to  swim  to  the  shore. 

At  Batavia  the  members  of  the  expedition  received 
every  possible  assistance  from  the  Governor-General, 
and  from  General  von  Daalen,  the  Commander-in- 
Chief ; the  former  of  whom,  to  our  great  regret, 
succumbed  shortly  afterwards  to  an  attack  of  cholera. 
It  was  here  arranged  that  an  escort  of  forty  Javanese 
troops,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  H.  A. 
Cramer,  an  infantry  officer  selected  from  the  Head- 
quarters Staff  for  this  purpose,  together  with  a staff  of 

33  C 


ENLARGING  THE  STAFF 


European  non-commissioned  officers  should  be  attached 
to  the  expedition,  as  it  was  considered  that  the  natives 
of  New  Guinea  might  oppose  the  landing  on  the  coast, 
and  in  any  case,  the  camps  would  need  to  be  guarded 
whether  the  inhabitants  appeared  friendly  or  not.  To 
assist  the  soldiers  of  the  escort  when  in  camp,  and  to 
act  as  their  carriers  should  the  expedition  penetrate 
any  distance  into  the  mountains,  sixty  convicts  were 
supplied,  drawn  mainly  from  Java,  but  with  a sprink- 
ling of  representatives  of  every  island  in  the  Archi- 
pelago, supposed  to  have  been  picked  for  their  ability 
to  withstand  the  hardships  of  the  climate.  Many 
of  these  men  were  convicted  murderers,  and  all 
had  been  sentenced  to  long  periods  of  imprisonment. 
Some  were  even  brought  in  chains  to  the  ship,  where 
their  shackles  were  struck  off,  for  it  was  well  known 
that  from  the  shores  of  New  Guinea  there  was  no 
possible  chance  of  escape.  They  were  supposed  to 
have  volunteered  for  the  expedition,  with  the  know- 
ledge that  as  a reward  for  good  work,  the  length  of 
their  sentences  might  be  reduced.  This  practice  of 
employing  convict  labour  on  New  Guinea  and  other 
expeditions  is  commonly  followed  throughout  the 
Dutch  East  India  possessions,  but  whether  the  advan- 
tage of  obtaining  as  good  a ration  as  that  served  out 
to  the  soldier  and  a chance  of  a remission  of  their 
sentence  outbalances  the  prospect  of  certain  sickness, 
and  very  probable  death  to  follow,  is  an  open  question. 

Less  masculine-looking  men  than  the  Javanese  it 
would  be  impossible  to  find.  Their  large  rounded  hips 
and  soft  flabby  bodies  to  the  casual  observer  give 
them  the  appearance  of  women. 

To  assist  the  expedition  by  every  means  in  their 

34 


THE  LINE  OF  ADVANCE 


power  the  Dutch  Government  promised  to  transport 
the  whole  of  our  force  and  stores  to  whatever  landing- 
place  might  be  selected  as  the  point  of  disembarkation 
and,  as  far  as  practicable,  to  keep  up  a two  to  three 
monthly  service  between  Amboina  and  New  Guinea. 

It  had  been  the  intention  of  Mr.  Goodfellow  before 
leaving  England  to  make  use  of  the  Utakwa  River  as 
the  line  of  advance  towards  the  mountains,  but  from 
information  obtained  in  Batavia  this  was  changed  to 
the  Mimika  River.  These  were  the  only  two  rivers  in 
this  portion  of  New  Guinea  the  mouths  of  which  had 
been  previously  visited,  and  from  the  information  avail- 
able there  seemed  little  to  choose  between  them.  As 
a matter  of  fact,  as  was  afterwards  proved,  the  Mimika 
is  but  a small  jungle-fed  stream  rising  in  the  low  foot- 
hills fifty  miles  to  the  west  of  Carstensz  peak ; while 
the  Utakwa  is  navigable  for  an  ocean-going  steamer 
for  a distance  of  seventeen  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
runs  directly  from  the  snow  mountain  itself.  We  had 
the  choice  of  either,  and  chose  the  wrong  one,  and  this, 
little  as  we  expected  it  at  the  time,  precluded  all  possi- 
bility of  our  ever  reaching  the  snowfields  and  glaciers 
of  the  central  range. 

There  followed  an  unavoidable  delay  of  three 
weeks,  during  which  time  the  soldiers  and  convicts 
were  collected,  and  the  ship  prepared  to  take  the  heavy 
load  of  stores  and  building  material,  a cargo  which  not 
only  filled  her  hold,  but  was  piled  high  upon  her  decks. 

While  this  work  was  in  progress,  Marshall  and  I 
made  a tour  through  Java,  but  of  this  I need  say  little, 
as  a report  on  this  rich  and  prosperous  island,  an 
example  of  the  colonising  abilities  of  the  Dutch,  is 
outside  the  province  of  this  book.  With  its  teeming 

35 


DUE  EAST 

and  peaceful  population,  its  rich  soil  and  intensive 
cultivation,  it  stands  as  a model  of  what  the  greater 
islands  of  Borneo  and  Sumatra  will  doubtless  develop 
into  in  years  to  come.  Compared  with  many  other 
parts  of  the  world  the  scenery  is,  to  my  mind,  tame, 
though  undeniably  beautiful.  Its  places  of  interest  are 
few  and  far  between  and,  with  the  exception  of  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  Buddhist  temple  of  Boro-Boder, 
brought  to  light  by  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  over  a 
hundred  years  ago,  and  the  active  volcanoes,  have  little 
to  attract  the  ordinary  tourist.  With  the  exception  of 
the  one  temple  mentioned  above,  there  is  nothing  to 
approach  in  grandeur  the  glorious  palaces  and  forts 
of  British  India,  or  the  ruins  of  the  temples  and  the 
homes  of  past  dynasties  scattered  throughout  that  land. 

What  struck  me  most  during  the  journey  was  the 
scrupulous  cleanliness  of  the  native  villages,  the  result, 
I understand,  of  a Government  order.  Would  that 
the  Indian  Government  could  do  likewise ! 

The  transport  Nias,  850  tons,  laden  to  her  Plimsoll 
line,  and  crowded  with  soldiers,  convicts  and  stores, 
left  Soerabaia,  the  western  port  of  Java,  on  Christ- 
mas Day,  1909,  her  decks  piled  high  with  bamboo 
poles,  matting  and  building  material.  Her  course 
lay  almost  due  east,  past  the  lovely  islands  of  Bali 
and  Lombok,  clothed  with  their  rice  fields  and  dense 
forest  vegetation,  the  summits  of  the  mountains 
hidden  in  a mass  of  fleecy  clouds,  to  Macassar  in 
Celebes,  and  thence  through  a still,  sajjphire  sea  to 
Amboina. 

Stalker  had  preceded  us  to  this  place  for  the  pur- 
pose of  collecting  a hundred  coolies  to  act  as  carriers 
for  the  expedition.  For  want  of  room  it  was  impos- 

36 


A CURIOUS  PRISON  REGIME 

sible  to  accommodate  these  men  on  board,  and  they 
were  therefore  shipped  to  Dobo  by  passenger  steamer, 
to  await  a second  trip  to  be  made  by  the  Nias. 

Dobo,  the  chief  settlement  in  the  Aru  Islands,  was 
reached  on  January  the  3rd.  Dobo  is  a most  unin- 
teresting place,  built  on  a spit  of  sand  at  the  entrance 
of  one  of  the  numerous  channels  which  split  the  islands 
into  small  fragments.  The  houses  are  built  of  corru- 
gated iron,  and  are  inhabited  by  a cosmopolitan  collec- 
tion of  Chinese,  Japanese,  Indians  and  Malays,  all 
dependent  directly  or  indirectly  on  the  pearl  fishing 
industry.  The  only  peculiarity  the  town  can  boast  of 
is  that  the  doors  of  the  jail  are  permanently  thrown 
open,  and  the  prisoners  can  wander  where  they  like, 
enter  and  depart  at  will,  only  being  compelled  to  spend 
the  night  within  the  walls.  It  is  reported,  with  what 
truth  I cannot  say,  that  a few  years  ago  there  was 
trouble  in  the  prison,  which  was  only  quelled  by  the 
Governor  announcing  his  intention  to  lock  the  prisoners 
out,  a threat  which  soon  brought  the  rebellious  ones 
to  reason. 

As  the  islands  are  of  coral,  the  question  of  fresh 
water  is  a serious  one ; every  drop  of  rain  being  collected 
and  stored  with  great  care.  The  huge  hulk  of  an  old 
iron  ship  belonging  to  the  Celebes  Trading  Company, 
moored  in  the  harbour  and  used  as  a store-ship  for  the 
pearl  fishing  fleet,  is  roofed  with  corrugated  iron,  and 
forms  the  most  lasting  watertank  in  the  district. 

The  town  has  no  hotel,  and  requires  none,  for  the 
hospitality  extended  to  strangers  by  the  British  repre- 
sentatives of  the  Celebes  Trading  Company  is  prover- 
bial in  this  part  of  the  world. 

By  five  o’clock  the  same  afternoon  we  had  embarked 

37 


THE  ISLAND  OF  NEW  GUINEA 


upon  the  last  and  shortest  stage  of  the  journey,  with 
the  knowledge  that  when  the  sun  next  rose  scarcely 
ten  miles  would  separate  us  from  the  land  upon  which 
our  minds  had  so  long  been  set. 

A sketch  of  the  general  aspect  of  the  island  of  New 
Guinea,  the  land  we  were  about  to  enter,  will  not  here 
be  out  of  place.  To  parody  a guide-book : “It  is  the 
largest  island  in  the  world,  being  some  one  thousand  one 
hundred  miles  in  length,  by  four  hundred  miles  in 
breadth,  and  having  an  area  of  three  hundred  and  seven 
thousand  square  miles,  or  about  the  size  of  Great 
Britain  and  France  combined.  Throughout  its  entire 
length  from  east  to  west  stretches  a vast  mountain 
range,  of  which  the  highest  point  is  believed  to  be 
Mount  Carstensz.  To  the  north  and  south  of  this 
chain,  which  is  known  in  the  various  districts  under 
different  names,  stretch  vast  swampy  plains  covered 
with  the  densest  forest,  intersected  by  endless  rivers, 
and  inhabited  by  savage  tribes. 

“ Owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  Equator,  and  on 
account  of  the  central  range  which  impedes  every 
wind  that  blows,  the  climate  is  both  hot  and  damp, 
and  for  these  reasons  is  extremely  unhealthy.  Were 
it  not  for  its  great  physical  and  climatic  obstacles, 
and  for  the  hostility  shown  by  its  inhabitants  to  the 
stranger,  New  Guinea  would  long  ago  have  been 
explored  and  its  secrets  revealed,  instead  of  being,  as 
it  is  at  present,  the  least  known  and  most  savage  land 
on  the  surface  of  the  globe.” 

To  the  Mimika  district,  the  particular  section  we 
are  most  interested  in,  the  same  remarks  hold  good, 
with  the  difference  that  the  mountains  here  rise  to  a 
greater  altitude  than  elsewhere,  and  the  plains  are 

38 


THE  COAST  LINE 

less  extensive.  Dense  forest  covers  every  foot  of 
ground ; there  are  no  lakes  or  open  stretches  of  water, 
nor,  it  may  be  added,  forest  paths.  The  only  lines  of 
communication  are  the  rivers  and  the  open  sea,  with 
dug-outs  as  the  means  of  transport. 

The  natives  congregate  along  the  banks  of  the 
rivers  and  the  coast,  the  forest  itself  being  practically 
uninhabited.  The  coast  line,  to  the  casual  observer,  is 
hard  and  straight,  with  numberless  small  bays  and 
creeks,  but  these  are  so  hidden  from  passing  ships,  that 
they  form  no  guide  as  to  whether  they  are  the  mouths 
of  great  rivers  or  of  muddy  inlets.  The  bays,  however, 
are  often  of  great  size,  and  would  be  invaluable  as 
harbours  were  it  possible  to  make  use  of  them ; but 
evershifting  and  treacherous  bars  close  their  mouths, 
thus  rendering  the  great  majority  useless  to  sea-going 
craft. 


39 


CHAPTER  III 


First  impressions — A doubtful  reception — First  overtures — Boarded  by 
savages — Exemplary  behaviour — Into  the  unknown — The  Mimika 
river — An  enthusiastic  welcome — Wakatimi — A village  community — 
Selecting  a site — Unmannerly  curiosity 

IT  was  morning.  The  Nias  was  creeping  on  an  easy 
swell  through  a cold,  grey  sea  towards  land.  Five 
miles  away  a narrow  strip  of  sand  stretched  east  and 
west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  broken  here  and  there 
by  groups  of  casuarina  trees  marking  the  mouths  of 
hidden  creeks  and  rivers.  Between  these  estuaries 
mangrove  swamps,  and  beyond,  a level,  unbroken  plain 
of  tangled  forest,  a belt  forty  miles  in  width  and 
hundreds  of  miles  in  length,  impenetrable,  impassable 
save  by  river  craft. 

Over  all  hung  a dense  canopy  of  mist. 

The  sun  rose,  and  with  it  came  into  view  range 
upon  range  of  knife- edged  ridges ; behind  these  a 
mighty  rampart  of  rock,  black,  and  apparently  impreg- 
nable, showed  hard  and  clear  against  the  sky.  Owing 
to  the  early  morning  haze  and  the  great  distance,  but 
little  of  the  great  cliff  could  be  distinguished  beyond  its 
bold  outline.  The  regular  and  unbroken  crest  fell 
steadily  away  towards  the  west  until  it  vanished  into 
the  valley  dividing  the  so-called  Snowy  Range  from 
the  Charles  Louis  Mountains,  and  in  the  east  reached 
its  highest  point  in  Mount  Carstensz. 

Carstensz,  with  its  many  peaks  of  nearly  equal  alti- 

40 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS 

tude,  grew  in  splendour  as  the  icy  pinnacles,  snowfields, 
and  glaciers  caught  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun.  It  was 
a magnificent  spectacle,  this  14,000  feet  of  rock  capped 
by  2000  feet  of  snow.  Glaciers  rolled  down  the  slopes, 
broken  by  occasional  chimneys  of  black  rock,  which, 
far  from  lessening  the  effect,  only  helped  to  bring 
into  more  vivid  contrast  the  virginal  whiteness  of  the 
snow. 

In  conjunction  with,  and  immediately  to  the  west 
of  this  great  mass,  lay  a gently  undulating  snow  field, 
and  beyond  that  again  another  group  of  snow-clad 
peaks,  now  named  after  the  Governor-General  of  the 
Netherlands  India. 

Gaze  as  we  might,  in  vain  could  we  discover  any- 
thing of  the  lie  of  the  rivers  or  of  the  general  trend  of 
the  ridges,  nor  was  there  anything  to  indicate  which 
was  the  one  most  likely  to  be  followed  by  the  expedi- 
tion in  its  progress  inland. 

Other  events,  however,  now  took  place,  of  sufficient 
interest  to  stop,  for  the  time  being,  any  speculation  as 
to  the  future. 

A thin  column  of  smoke  was  rising  from  the  nearest 
promontory,  an  outpost  of  the  Charles  Louis  Range, 
and  this,  evidently  a signal  of  the  approach  of  danger, 
was  repeated  with  astonishing  rapidity  every  few  miles 
along  the  coast.  At  the  same  time  a number  of  canoes, 
laden  with  savages,  shot  out  from  the  inlets,  paddling 
hard  to  cut  us  off,  but  owing  to  the  Nias  now  shaping 
an  easterly  course  along  the  coast,  the  majority  were 
soon  out  of  the  running,  but  others,  having  more 
warning,  were  able  to  place  themselves  directly  in  the 
track  and,  waiting  till  we  had  passed,  followed  exci- 
tedly in  rear,  whilst  a few,  avoiding  a close  approach, 

41 


A DOUBTFUL  RECEPTION 


remained  satisfied  with  a distant  inspection.  There  is 
no  sight  more  beautiful  or  more  animated  all  the  world 
over  than  a fleet  of  these  dug-outs,  each  manned  by  a 
dozen  or  more  Papuans,  who,  standing  and  working  in 
perfect  unison,  drive  their  frail  craft  through  the  trough 
of  a choppy  sea  with  mighty  strokes  of  their  paddles. 
The  fine  physique  of  these  men,  with  their  shining  black 
skins,  their  only  conspicuous  ornament  a few  white 
feathers  in  their  hair,  is  shown  to  the  best  advantage 
when  wielding  their  paddles,  and  the  whole  scene  forms 
a perfect  example  of  beauty  and  force  combined. 

N umbers  of  canoes  at  varying  intervals  were  still  fol- 
lowing the  ship,  when  at  3 p.m.  Commander  van  Her- 
werden  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Mimika  River 
had  been  overshot.  This  was  not  to  be  wondered  at, 
as  with  every  mouth  and  creek  exactly  like  the  last, 
the  chances  of  locating  the  entrance  were  decidedly 
remote.  The  relief-ships  later  on  did  not  experience 
similar  difficulties,  for  a peculiar  formation  of  trees  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  was  sufficient  indication  of  the 
position  required.  It  by  no  means  followed,  however, 
that  when  once  they  had  arrived  the  stores  would  be 
landed  or  the  sick  removed  from  the  shore,  for  on  more 
than  one  occasion  the  heavy  surf  forbade  a landing,  and 
the  ship  was  compelled  to  weigh  anchor  and  depart,  to 
the  grievous  disappointment  of  all  on  shore. 

No  canoes  venturing  near  or  paying  any  attention 
to  our  hails,  the  launch  was  lowered,  and  made  for  a 
spot  where  numbers  of  excited  and  gesticulating 
savages  could  be  seen  collected  on  the  sands.  Those  in 
the  canoes  were  evidently  beginning  to  realise  that  our 
intentions  were  peaceable,  for  before  we  had  gone  far 
they  began  to  close  in,  and  it  was  to  them  we  turned 

42 


FIRST  OVERTURES 

for  the  required  information.  One  canoe  in  particular 
was  signalled  out,  not  so  much  on  account  of  its  greater 
size,  but  because  of  some  bright  bunting  seen  waving 
from  the  stern.  To  our  intense  surprise,  a nearer 
approach  showed  this  to  be  a pilot’s  Union  Jack  which, 
before  we  got  to  close  quarters,  was  taken  down  and 
stowed  away,  probably  from  fear  that  it  might  be 
seized.  Try  as  we  would,  we  were  never  able  to  per- 
suade these  people  to  bring  it  forth  for  our  inspection  ; 
when  asked  for  it,  they  simply  expressed  complete 
ignorance  of  what  we  desired,  a simple  and  effective 
subterfuge  owing  to  our  limited  knowledge  of  the 
language.  Possibly  it  might  have  told  a tale  they 
thought  it  better  that  we  should  not  know.  We  chose, 
however,  to  look  upon  the  augury  as  a good  one,  and, 
steaming  alongside,  beckoned  to  the  most  important- 
looking individual  in  the  canoe  to  come  into  the  launch, 
a feat  he  was  nothing  loath  to  perform.  Without 
uttering  a word,  he  proceeded  to  shake  hands  all  round, 
including  in  his  attentions  the  engine-driver  and 
stokers,  giving  the  ordinary  hand-grip  to  commence 
with,  but  immediately  snatching  his  fingers  away.  The 
Papuans  of  this  district,  as  we  afterwards  found,  occa- 
sionally greet  one  another  in  this  fashion,  but  more 
often  with  both  hands,  and  if  this  does  not  show  suffi- 
cient warmth  they  add  a kiss. 

The  word  Mimika  was  sufficient  for  our  newfound 
guide  to  point  to  a promontory  some  two  or  three  miles 
to  the  west.  He  accompanied  us  on  board  the  Nias, 
and  comported  himself  with  perfect  decorum,  as, 
indeed,  was  only  to  be  expected,  for  he  turned  out  to 
be  the  chief  of  the  village  of  N ime,  and  the  most  import- 
ant individual  in  the  district.  There  was,  however, 

43 


BOARDED  BY  SAVAGES 

nothing  in  his  style  of  dress  to  distinguish  him  from 
his  followers. 

Seeing  their  chief  step  on  board  with  every  sign  of 
confidence,  the  rest  were  encouraged  to  follow  his 
example,  and  within  a minute  the  gangway  was 
blocked  with  a seething  mass  of  savages.  No  signs  of 
fear  were  displayed,  no  shyness,  and  no  undue  curiosity 
— the  one  idea  was  to  set  foot  on  board  ; and  it  was 
evident  they  had  been  treated  with  such  consideration 
when  visited  by  the  Dutch  ship  three  years  previously 
that  the  arrival  of  the  white  man  gave  rise  to  no  feelings 
of  fear  or  suspicion. 

On  they  came,  boatload  after  boatload,  till  a 
hundred  naked  savages  were  grouped  in  a compact 
mass  on  the  deck.  F or  the  moment  they  had  obtained 
their  heart's  desire  and  were  satisfied,  but  soon  the 
bolder  spirits  began  to  trickle  away  down  below,  to 
emerge  shortly  afterwards  dressed  in  the  cast-off  cloth- 
ing of  the  Malay  firemen,  horrible  and  ludicrous 
examples  of  how  the  human  form  can  be  disfigured. 
Broad  grins  suffused  their  faces,  not  unmixed  with 
pride,  when  their  now  naked-looking  companions  gazed 
with  jealous  eyes  upon  these  acquisitions.  The  anchor 
was  soon  raised,  and  within  an  hour  a fresh  berth  had 
been  taken  up  in  three  and  a half  fathoms  of  water,  and 
two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mimika  River. 

At  dusk  the  captain  gave  orders  for  the  ship  to  be 
cleared,  but  in  this  he  had  reckoned  without  his  guests. 
Determined  to  spend  the  night  on  board,  the  canoes 
had  been  sent  away  as  soon  as  the  owners  had  set  foot 
on  deck,  thus  removing  the  only  possible  means  of  com- 
munication with  the  shore.  Three  newly  arrived  canoes 
were,  however,  commandeered,  and  into  them  as  many 

44 


EXEMPLARY  BEHAVIOUR 


Papuans  as  possible  were  driven,  and  as  it  was  out  of 
the  question  to  force  the  remainder  to  reach  dry  land 
by  swimming,  particularly  as  the  sea  was  full  of  sharks, 
we  had  perforce  to  allow  many  to  remain  on  board.  It 
mattered  little,  as  they  were  behaving  themselves  in  the 
most  exemplary  manner.  A more  phlegmatic  crew  I 
have  never  seen ; squatting  in  silent  rows,  they  absorbed 
everything  presented  from  food  to  the  veriest  trifles, 
and  neither  the  electric  light  nor  the  throbs  of  the 
engine  seemed  to  cause  the  least  surprise  or  fear. 

Unaccustomed  to  late  nights  they  dropped  off  to 
sleep  as  soon  as  darkness  came  on,  tucking  themselves 
into  one  another  in  long  rows,  their  faces  in  the  same 
direction  and  their  heads  resting  upon  the  brass-bound 
steps  or  any  other  convenient  projection.  With  day- 
light came  dozens  of  fresh  craft,  and  in  these  our  too- 
clinging  friends  took  their  departure. 

Before  deciding  on  our  future  course  of  action  it 
was  necessary,  first  of  all,  to  examine  the  river  and  its 
banks,  in  order  to  select  some  suitable  site  upon  which 
to  build  the  base  camp,  for  when  once  the  stores  had 
been  landed  there  would  be  no  possible  chance  of 
moving  to  another  position.  The  launch  was  again 
lowered,  and  within  an  hour  of  daybreak  Goodfellow, 
Cramer,  and  I,  together  with  ten  Javanese  soldiers  and 
the  guide  of  the  previous  day,  were  approaching  the 
bar  across  the  mouth  of  the  Mimika,  on  which  the  surf 
was  beating  heavily.  All  went  well.  Two  fathoms  of 
water  lay  over  the  bar ; the  enclosed  mouth  of  the 
river  opened  out  into  a bay  a mile  in  length  and  a 
thousand  yards  in  width,  with  sufficient  water  to  float 
any  boat  we  were  ever  likely  to  use.  On  either  hand 
lay  the  villages  of  Atabo  and  Taroke,  evidently  erected 

45 


INTO  THE  UNKNOWN 

merely  as  temporary  shelters  for  those  engaged  in  sea  fish- 
ing. Astonished  throngs  watched  us  pass  in  silence,  the 
bolder  men  in  the  foreground,  the  women  and  children 
peeping  from  behind  the  mat  doors  of  the  huts.  These 
showed  no  fear,  though  possibly  their  numbers  alone 
gave  them  confidence ; as  we  progressed  up  stream  the 
occupants  of  odd  canoes  encountered  fled  terror-stricken 
into  the  undergrowth  at  the  first  sign  of  the  white  man, 
in  two  instances  leaving  their  canoes  drifting  helplessly 
on  the  current  of  the  stream. 

Mangrove  trees  covered  the  banks,  their  bare  roots 
projecting  in  a tangled  mass  from  a sea  of  slimy  mud, 
over  which  no  man  could  move.  This  growth  gradu- 
ally gave  place  to  vegetation  requiring  a more  solid 
foundation  beneath  which  scrub  jungle  appeared,  be- 
coming more  and  more  dense  the  further  we  advanced. 
Up  beautiful  stretches  of  the  gently  winding  river  we 
passed,  cheered  by  distant  views  of  the  mountains  and 
the  snows  of  Carstensz,  at  this  early  hour  clear  of  cloud. 
Dank  and  gloomy  creeks  opened  out  on  either  hand, 
in  the  smallest  of  which  fishing-nets  could  be  seen  so 
placed  as  to  entrap  the  fish  on  the  falling  of  the  tide. 
Slimy,  evil-smelling  mud  covered  the  land,  silent  evi- 
dence of  the  inundation  which  took  place  at  every  tide  ; 
everywhere  roamed  countless  numbers  of  crabs,  large 
and  small,  together  with  a species  of  climbing  fish 
which,  with  swift  strokes  of  its  tail  and  fins,  sought 
cover  amidst  the  roots,  or,  if  on  a branch,  flopped 
noisily  into  the  water.  Overhead  passed  white  cocka- 
toos, screaming  with  fear,  their  yellow  crests  distended 
with  surprise ; egrets,  tree  ducks,  pigeons,  flocks  of 
beautiful  but  noisy  parrots  and  lories,  and  innumer- 
able other  varieties  of  bird  life.  On  the  bank  basked  a 

46 


A Forest  impassable  for  Man 

The  four-mile  belt  of  mangrove  swamp  along  the  coast ; showing  the  tidal  mark. 


Wakatimi  Village 

A village  situated  opposite  to  the  base  camp,  and  noted  for  perpetual  strife  and  drunken  brawls. 


THE  MIMIKA  RIVER 


small  alligator,  whilst  water- snakes,  making  for  the 
nearest  cover,  now  and  again  rippled  the  glassy  surface 
of  the  water.  This  highway  of  the  island  teemed  with 
animal  life  startled  into  activity  by  the  unwonted 
apparition  of  a steam  launch. 

Three  miles  from  the  mouth  the  river  divided  ; the 
Mimika  proper  still  flowed  from  the  north,  while  from 
the  west  entered  the  Watuka,  with  a volume  three 
times  as  great  as  the  former  and  of  a milky  colour,  a 
fairly  certain  proof  that  its  source  was  in  the  distant 
mountains.  The  Mimika  was  but  a tributary,  and,  to 
judge  by  its  dark  and  oily  waters,  a jungle-fed  stream, 
with  its  origin  to  be  found  not  amidst  the  distant 
snows  or  even  the  highlands  of  the  lower  ranges,  but 
probably  in  the  marshy  levels  of  the  low-lying  plain. 
Still,  as  the  Watuka  came  from  the  west  and  our 
course  lay  evidently  to  the  east,  in  the  direction  of  the 
snow  mountains,  no  apparent  object  was  to  be  gained 
by  changing  to  that  more  prepossessing  looking  river. 
The  Mimika  had  been  selected  as  the  line  of  advance 
whilst  we  were  in  Java,  and  to  this  decision  we  had  to 
adhere,  there  being  no  river  transport  at  our  disposal 
wherewith  to  prospect  for  other  routes  should  the  one 
chosen  prove  unsatisfactory.  The  Mimika  had  by  now 
shrunk  to  a width  of  about  a hundred  yards,  the  slimy 
banks  being  covered  to  the  water’s  edge  with  a tangled 
mass  of  creepers  and  cacti,  and  evidently,  even  at  this 
distance  from  the  sea,  subject  to  periodic  inundations. 

Not  a soul  was  to  be  seen.  The  river  seemed  as 
deserted  as  the  grave.  This  was  due  either  to  fear, 
or  more  probably  had  been  arranged  by  the  savages 
in  order  to  afford  a more  striking  welcome,  for,  as  our 
launch  suddenly  rounded  a bend  in  the  river,  a wild 

47 


AX  ENTHUSIASTIC  WELCOME 

yell  from  the  banks  burst  upon  our  ears,  immediately 
followed  by  the  appearance  of  a dozen  well-filled 
canoes.  Without  awaiting  our  closer  approach,  every 
man  cast  himself  backwards  into  the  river,  only  to 
scramble  on  board  again  and  repeat  the  performance, 
which  might  have  gone  on  for  ever  had  we  not  rapidly 
steamed  through  the  fleet.  Escorted  by  their  canoes 
we  turned  into  a straight  stretch  of  water,  at  the  far 
end  of  which  the  cocoa-nut  palms  of  a village  could 
be  distinguished,  the  rising  smoke  showing  where  the 
huts  lay.  This  was  Wakatimi,  spoken  of  by  the 
Dutch,  and  near  which  place  Goodfellow  had  hoped  to 
find  a convenient  site  for  the  base  camp. 

The  excitement  was  intense.  Men,  women,  and 
children  poured  down  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  adding 
their  clamour  to  that  of  our  escort  in  the  canoes.  No 
welcome  could  have  been  more  enthusiastic,  and  few 
sights  more  astonishing.  The  women  cast  themselves 
into  the  mud,  rolling  over  and  over  and  plastering 
themselves  from  head  to  foot,  while  the  men  and  boys 
preferred  the  cleaner  operation  of  throwing  themselves 
backwards  into  the  water.  The  women,  now  hardly 
to  be  recognised  as  human  beings,  but  delirious  with 
joy  and  excitement,  started  an  inartistic  dance,  going 
down  on  hands  and  feet  and  wriggling  their  bodies 
from  side  to  side  with  their  sterns  waving  in  the  air  ; 
their  chief  desire  appeared  to  be  to  throw  as  much 
movement  into  that  part  of  their  anatomy  as  the 
position  would  allow.  The  moment  we  set  foot  on 
land  the  women  and  children  fled  for  safety  to  their 
huts,  diving  into  them  like  a lot  of  rabbits  into  their 
burrows,  and  there  remained,  rows  of  frizzy  heads  and 
gleaming  eyes  being  the  only  evidence  of  their  existence. 

48 


WAKATIMI 


Wakatimi  itself  consisted  of  one  long  row  of  about 
a hundred  huts  placed  side  by  side  and  touching  one 
another,  so  that  the  whole  village  somewhat  resembled 
a single  room.  In  front  of  the  habitations  ran  the 
main  street,  bordered  on  the  river  side  by  a thick  row 
of  cocoa-nut  palms.  Small  muddy  creeks  led  from  the 
river  to  the  trees,  and  in  these  minute  harbours  rested 
the  canoes.  Cleanliness  was  not  practised  in  any  form, 
the  refuse  of  the  huts  and  the  remains  of  the  feasts 
being  cast  into  heaps  close  by ; over  these  roamed 
boys,  pigs,  and  dogs  seeking  for  food  or  a point  of 
vantage  from  whence  to  survey  the  scene.  Unlike 
other  districts  of  New  Guinea,  where  the  house  is 
almost  invariably  erected  upon  piles,  the  huts  are  here 
built  upon  the  ground  and  are  of  the  rudest  possible 
description.  A more  permanent  form  of  building  is 
not  favoured  by  the  natives  of  these  districts,  for  the 
heavy  rainfall,  playing  havoc  with  any  ground  cleared 
of  vegetation,  often  changes  the  course  of  the  rivers ; 
and,  in  addition  to  this,  owing  to  each  district  being 
rapidly  denuded  of  its  available  food-supplies,  the  tribes 
are  obliged  to  adopt  a more  or  less  nomadic  life. 
Those  living  on  the  coast  are  less  affected  by  the 
question  of  food,  as  fresh  fish  is  always  available  and, 
even  when  sago  is  scarce,  suffer  little  inconvenience. 

Not  only  in  appearance  but  in  reality  is  the  village 
one  long  room,  for  a new  arrival  builds  his  hut  on  to 
the  end  of  the  row  of  buildings  already  standing  and, 
when  completed,  removes  the  partition.  This  com- 
munal building,  for  such  it  may  be  conveniently 
termed,  may  stretch  to  any  length  according  to  the 
amount  of  ground  available  and  the  number  of  families 
to  be  housed. 


49 


D 


A VILLAGE  COMMUNITY 


Each  family  owns  its  particular  doorway,  but  be- 
yond this  there  is  no  privacy  or  right  of  possession. 
The  floor  consists  of  sand  brought  from  the  seashore, 
upon  which,  to  make  the  place  a little  more  habitable, 
grass  mats  are  laid.  Fireplaces  are  dotted  about  any- 
where, each  family  possessing  at  least  one  which  is 
used  primarily  for  the  purpose  of  cooking,  and  at  night 
as  a stove  round  which  the  members  of  the  family 
curl  for  the  sake  of  warmth.  Smoke  fills  the  interior 
of  the  huts,  escaping  as  best  it  may,  blackening  the 
walls  and  human  skulls  and  bones  which  dangle  from 
the  roof  or  are  suspended  from  any  convenient  pro- 
jection. Of  furniture  there  is  none,  except  for  an 
occasional  wood  pillow,  to  our  minds  the  most  im- 
possible of  rests,  since  it  is  balanced  upon  two  legs 
and  is  so  decorated  with  carving  as  not  to  leave  one 
square  inch  of  smooth  surface  upon  which  to  rest  the 
neck.  Encumbering  the  floor  space  is  an  indescribable 
conglomeration  of  babies,  pi-dogs,  sago  dishes,  full  and 
empty  string  bags,  bows  and  arrows,  and  other  objects, 
whilst  just  outside  the  entrance,  ready  for  instant  use, 
stand  the  spears  and  stone  clubs,  as  freely  used  in 
family  quarrels  as  in  repelling  a hostile  force. 

But  I am  getting  on  too  fast.  Our  thoughts  at  this 
time  were  focussed  upon  the  one  idea  of  obtaining  a 
good  site  for  the  base  camp,  in  the  choosing  of  which 
two  things  had  to  be  remembered.  First,  to  select  a 
spot  within  easy  distance  of  the  sea  and  yet  beyond  the 
reach  of  inundation,  and  next  to  see  that  it  was  close  to 
a native  village,  from  whence  it  was  hoped  local  labour 
might  be  obtained  for  the  construction  of  the  huts  and 

o 

to  pole  the  canoes  up  the  river.  Wakatimi  seemed  to 
offer  both  these  advantages.  From  the  general  air  of 

50 


Types  of  Papuans 

1.  A coast  Papuan  with  hair  dressed  as  a halo. 

2.  The  headman  of  Parimau  village. 

3.  A coast  native  wearing  a necklace  of  cassowary  feathers. 

4.  The  best  carrier.  Note  the  Semitic  type. 


SELECTING  A SITE 


permanency  which  pervaded  the  village,  it  appeared 
unlikely  that  the  site  was  subject  to  floods,  though  it 
was  evident,  from  the  great  rise  in  the  river  which  took 
place  daily,  that  we  were  still  within  the  area  of  tidal 
waters.  The  lie  of  the  land  led  one  to  believe  that 
the  effect  of  the  tide  was  to  be  felt  for  many  miles 
farther  inland,  and  that  a safer  site  might  be  found 
higher  up  the  river,  but  then  it  was  improbable  that 
another  village  existed  within  a reasonable  distance, 
and,  moreover,  without  a launch  great  difficulty  would 
be  experienced  in  communicating  with  the  relief  ships. 
On  the  bank  opposite  to  the  village  a possible  site 
offered ; at  this  point  the  river  doubled  upon  itself, 
leaving  a peninsula  almost  surrounded  by  water.  Here 
sanitary  arrangements  would  be  more  easily  supervised, 
and  we  would  be  near  to,  and  yet  not  affected  by,  the 
Papuan  habitations.  On  this  spot  Goodfellow  decided 
that  the  stores  should  be  landed  and  the  base  camp 
built,  as  in  addition  to  its  other  advantages  it  was  of  a 
convenient  size  and  only  sparsely  timbered. 

Having  been  escorted  up  and  down  the  village  two 
or  three  times  by  the  able-bodied  men,  and  after  in- 
dulging in  various  amenities  (neither  knowing  the 
other’s  language),  including  introductions  to  the  more 
important-looking  savages,  we  crossed  to  the  peninsula, 
and  there  left  Cramer  and  his  men  to  camp  for  the 
night  and  prepare  for  the  advent  of  the  stores  and 
building  material  on  the  morrow. 

Cramer  had  a more  unpleasant  task  than  was  antici- 
pated, as  the  railing  which  he  at  once  erected  round  his 
tents  was  over  and  over  again  pushed  to  the  ground  by 
the  weight  of  the  ever-increasing  number  of  spectators. 
He  spent  a most  uncomfortable  night,  but  next  day 

51 


UNMANNERLY  CURIOSITY 


some  relief  was  experienced  by  adding  to  the  working 
parties  who,  in  time,  were  able  to  build  a palisade 
sufficient  to  withstand  all  possible  strain.  It  was  not 
that  the  Papuans  were  offensive ; it  was  simply  an 
overbearing  desire  to  see  more  of  the  weird  race  who 
had  so  unexpectedly  come  into  their  midst.  Later  on, 
as  the  novelty  wore  off,  their  behaviour  became  less 
pleasant,  sulkiness  and  insolence  taking  the  place  of 
curiosity,  to  such  an  extent  that  it  was  found  necessary 
on  two  occasions  to  make  an  example  of  the  offenders. 
Relations  then  improved,  and  remained  more  or  less 
friendly  to  the  close  of  the  expedition. 

Drink  was  entirely  responsible  for  any  hostile  feel- 
ing displayed,  and  the  cutting  down  of  some  of  the 
sugar-palm  trees  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  removed 
temptation  out  of  their  way.  As  these  trees  were  used 
for  no  other  purpose  than  the  extraction  of  beer,  this 
involved  no  real  hardship  on  the  villagers. 


52 


CHAPTER  IV 


Coast  and  up-river  tribes — The  Papuan — Albinos — Native  hairdressing — 
Personal  adornments — Native  costume — Civilisation  and  morality — 
Compulsory  clothing — Widow’s  weeds — Male  attire — Improving  nature 
— The  drunken  savage — Corporal  punishment — Treatment  of  children 
— Female  subjugation — Native  diet — A curious  delicacy — A fertile  soil 
— Native  indolence 

THE  inhabited  portion  of  the  Mimika  district  con- 
sists of  four  distinct  zones.  The  most  southerly 
is  the  belt  of  land  twelve  miles  in  width  running  along 
the  coast,  and  inhabited  by  the  people  known  as  the 
coast  tribes.  Immediately  to  the  north  of  this  is  a 
barren  or  sparsely  tenanted  strip  of  country ; while  to 
the  north  again,  but  still  in  the  plains,  is  the  zone  com- 
prising the  territory  containing  the  headwaters  of  the 
smaller  rivers,  and  inhabited  by  people  usually  known 
as  the  up-river  natives.  There  still  remain  the  lower 
foothills  of  the  main  central  range  of  mountains  in 
which  dwell  the  small  men,  or  the  pygmies,  called  by 
the  plainsmen  Tapiros.  Of  this  latter  race  I shall 
have  more  to  say  later  on. 

Though  the  plainsmen  live  on  the  same  river,  and 
are  doubtless  of  the  same  stock,  the  coast  and  up-river 
tribes  are  at  constant  enmity,  neither  branch  desiring 
intercourse  with  the  other,  nor,  except  on  rare  occasions, 
is  there  any  trade  between  them.  With  the  tribes 
which  live  directly  to  the  east  and  west  they  each  have 
the  closest  relations,  though  even  here  they  are  not  too 
demonstrative  in  their  affection  when  they  meet.  This 

53 


THE  PAPUAN 

is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at,  when  it  is  known  that  even 
individuals  and  families  of  the  same  village  are  per- 
petually quarrelling  amongst  themselves,  the  slightest 
excuse  being  usually  sufficient  to  fan  into  flame  the 
smouldering  embers  of  real  or  imaginary  wrongs. 

Physically  the  Papuan  of  the  Mimika  Coast  is  an 
extraordinarily  fine  creature,  which  is  all  the  more 
surprising  when  the  slothful  life  he  leads,  the  meagre 
food  upon  which  he  subsists,  and  the  amount  of  disease 
prevalent  in  this  swampy  district  are  taken  into  con- 
sideration. The  average  height  is  about  five  feet  six 
and  a half  inches,  slightly  above  that  of  the  average 
European,  whilst  the  chest  measurement  shows  an 
excess  of  two  and  a half  inches.  The  muscular  develop- 
ment is  immense.  The  arms  slightly  exceed  in  length 
those  of  the  AVestern  races,  though  the  lower  limbs  are 
not  so  powerfully  moulded  as  the  trunk  and  upper 
extremities.  The  head  is  small  in  circumference,  on 
account  of  the  slight  development  of  the  occipital  pro- 
minence. The  jaw  is  heavy  and  square,  but  not 
prognathous.  The  eyes,  set  rather  close  together,  are 
dark  brown  in  colour,  the  iris  not  hard  and  distinct, 
but  gradually  merging  into  the  blotch}7  light  brown  of 
the  eyeball.  The  nose  is  straight,  arched,  and  decidedly 
Semitic  in  type,  the  nostrils  being  flattened,  but  not  to 
the  same  extent  as  in  the  negro.  The  teeth,  as  is  the 
case  with  all  savages,  are  strong  and  regular,  and  in 
the  case  of  the  males  often  filed  to  a point.  I have 
used  the  word  “ filed,”  but  the  way  in  which  this 
deformity  is  effected  is  by  chipping  away  the  sides  of 
the  teeth  with  pieces  of  flints  or  sharpened  shells,  used 
in  the  same  way  as  a chisel.  In  colour  the  Papuan  is 
almost  coal  black,  the  women  being  slightly  fairer  than 

54 


NATIVE  HAIRDRESSING 

the  men.  During  our  stay  we  saw  three  albinos  at 
various  times,  all  males.  Two  of  these  were  full-grown 
men ; both  possessed  hair  of  a dirty  reddish  colour, 
while  their  skins  were  of  a pale  whity-pink,  with  here 
and  there  patches  of  a darker  hue.  Though  of  good 
physique,  the  weird  colouring  and  disfiguring  blotches 
rendered  them  altogether  repulsive  objects.  A black 
man  always  appears  dressed,  and,  from  the  point  of 
decency,  requires  no  clothes,  but  these  two,  owing 
to  their  sickly  and  uneven  colouring,  appeared  not 
only  objectionable  but  naked  as  well.  The  third 
was  a baby  of  about  nine  months  old,  of  which  the 
parents,  both  coal-black  Papuans,  were  inordinately 
proud.  His  hair  was  sandy,  and  his  eyes  (practically 
without  pigment)  of  a pale  grey  colour.  In  their 
heedless  way  the  parents  habitually  carry  their 
children  face  uppermost,  so  that  this  mite,  in  the  full 
glare  of  the  sun’s  rays,  suffered  considerably,  judging 
from  the  way  in  which  he  screwed  up  his  eyes. 

It  is  a pity  that  the  Mimika  Papuan  cuts  off  that 
magnificent  crop  of  fuzzy  hair  which  is  so  much  re- 
spected and  admired  in  other  parts  of  New  Guinea,  for 
in  so  doing  he  loses  much  of  his  natural  picturesque 
appearance.  This  wonderful  head  covering,  which  if 
left  to  itself  will  provide  the  owner  with  a natural 
adornment  three  or  four  feet  in  circumference,  is  here 
so  trimmed  that  the  growth  is  reduced  to,  at  the  most, 
four  or  five  inches.  Until  our  advent  knives  were 
unknown,  and  the  hair  was  removed  by  a slow  and 
not  altogether  pleasant  operation,  in  which  the  barber 
either  made  use  of  a sharpened  shell  or  got  rid  of  the 
superfluous  article  by  placing  it  on  the  edge  of  a split 
cane  and  rubbing  it  with  a stone  until  the  desired  effect 

55 


PERSONAL  ADORNMENTS 

was  obtained.  This  custom  may  be  of  some  use  from 
the  point  of  view  of  cleanliness,  but  it  certainly  does 
not  completely  eradicate  the  objectionable  insects  so 
prevalent  amongst  these  people.  Their  hair  either 
remains  as  it  leaves  the  tender  mercies  of  the  barber 
or  is  plaited  into  small  ridges,  a fashion  that  gives  an 
uncommonly  neat  appearance  to  the  wearer,  but  which 
requires  so  much  time  for  its  completion  that  days  and 
even  weeks  elapse  before  it  is  again  taken  in  hand. 
This  custom  is  mainly  confined  to  the  young  bloods, 
the  older  men,  being  careless  as  to  their  appearance, 
prefer  to  let  the  hair  grow  as  nature  intended  it. 
Into  the  hair  is  thrust,  particularly  on  festive  days, 
a number  of  white  cockatoo’s  tail  feathers,  which  stand 
out  at  every  angle,  and  on  still  more  rare  occasions 
some  brilliantly-coloured  flower.  In  some  instances 
many  feathers  of  the  same  bird  are  formed  into  a ray 
standing  up  all  around  the  head,  affording  a very 
pleasing  effect.  The  glorious  orange  plumes  of  the 
Greater  Bird  of  Paradise  are  only  worn  on  very  im- 
portant occasions,  or  by  the  performers  at  a sing-song, 
thus  greatly  adding  to  the  picturesqueness  of  such  a 
scene.  These  feathers  are  kept  in  position  by  a band 
passed  round  the  wearer’s  brow,  or  by  a kind  of  crown 
made  of  plaited  grass  in  which  as  many  as  five  plumes 
are  sported  at  one  time.  One  or  two  men  encountered 
during  the  last  month  of  our  stay,  who  said  they  came 
from  another  district  farther  west,  wore  their  hair  in 
the  form  of  a half  halo,  the  rays  being  formed  of  many 
pieces  of  cane  plaited  into  the  hair,  and  standing  at 
right  angles  to  the  scalp.  This  must  have  proved 
highly  uncomfortable  at  night,  necessitating  the  use 
of  a wood  pillow  or  something  upon  which  to  rest  the 

56 


A Papuan  Family 

The  woman  is  wearing  a pendant  of  boar’s  tushes  and  trade  beads.  Cockatoo’s  feathers  are  in 
the  man’s  hair,  and  plaited  grass  bracelets  protect  the  wrist  from  injury  when  firing  with  bow 
and  arrow. 


NATIVE  COSTUME 


neck.  Round  the  biceps,  and  also  above  the  calf,  are 
sewn  bands  of  finely-woven  grass,  two  or  three  inches 
in  width,  worked  into  some  pattern  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  another  strand  of  bright  yellow.  No  other 
decorations  are  favoured,  except  occasionally  a string 
of  large  blue  and  white  beads  slung  around  the 
neck.  These  beads  are  often  much  worn  at  the 
edges,  appear  to  be  of  great  age,  and  have  most  pro- 
bably been  brought  into  the  land  by  the  natives 
of  the  Kei  Islands  to  the  south.  That  these  latter 
people  do  occasionally  visit  the  coast  of  New  Guinea 
is  certain,  as  the  Papuans  know  them  by  name  and 
apparently  bear  them  no  enmity.  Their  probable 
object  in  coming  is  to  seek  for  cocoa-nuts  with  which 
to  trade  in  copra,  a valuable  commodity  in  the  East. 

The  women  are  given  to  still  less  self-adornment 
than  the  men,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a few  beads, 
wear  nothing  but  the  loin-cloth.  This  is  made  from 
the  bark  of  a tree,  beaten  for  hours  until  it  is  as  thin 
and  pliable  as  paper.  A strip  is  passed  between  the 
legs  and  through  a string  tied  round  the  waist,  leaving 
about  a foot  of  the  ends  pendant  in  front  and  behind. 
Poor  wretches ! their  days  are  one  long  round  of  toil, 
and  they  have  little  leisure  to  think  of  trinkets  or 
decoration.  Girls  are  similarly  adorned  when  very 
young,  but  boys  go  about  quite  nude  until  they  are 
fourteen  or  fifteen  years  of  age,  or  even  until  fully 
grown  ; some  indeed  refuse  to  wear  anything  all  their 
lives.  Nothing  obscene  or  indecent  is  ever  visible  to 
the  stranger,  and  the  absence  of  privacy  in  the  com- 
munal home  tends  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  im- 
moral behaviour  at  any  other  time. 

Immorality  is  one  of  the  evils  which  spring  from 

57 


CIVILISATION  AND  MORALITY 

civilisation.  At  present  the  morals  of  these  natives 
are  as  nature  made  them,  and  will  remain  so  until  the 
advent  of  the  trader  with  unlimited  cloth,  or  of  those 
misguided  missioners,  whose  first  idea  in  converting 
the  savage  to  Christianity  is  to  conceal  from  view, 
behind  hideous  and  non-hygienic  garments,  the  form 
of  one  of  the  finest  animals  in  creation.  With  this 
phase  of  civilisation,  dirt,  disease,  and  vice  will  take 
root  and  flourish,  to  end  doubtless  here,  as  elsewhere, 
in  the  extermination  of  the  aboriginal  stock.  This 
question  of  compulsory  clothing,  insisted  upon  by  so 
many  in  their  efforts  to  convert  the  savage  to  Chris- 
tianity, is  the  one  and  only  point  in  proselytising  work 
to  which  I am  entirely  opposed.  In  a climate  like 
this,  where  day  and  night,  month  in  and  month  out, 
the  temperature  lies  between  70°  and  93°  Fahrenheit, 
where  the  heavens  pour  down  an  everlasting  flood,  and 
where  the  only  means  of  communication  are  by  river 
and  sodden  jungle  paths,  can  anything  be  more  ridicu- 
lous than  to  supplement  the  natural  oily  skin  covering 
of  the  native  by  the  unhealthy,  uncomfortable,  and 
ugly  garments  which  custom  has  decreed  civilised  man 
must  wear  ? Take  Amboina  for  example.  What  can 
be  more  inappropriate  than  the  black  alpaca  coverings 
worn  by  the  Christian  women  ? One  might  almost 
weep  at  the  sight  were  it  not  so  ludicrous.  I am  glad 
to  see  that  the  Administrator  of  British  New  Guinea 
has  lately  issued  a warning  to  all  natives  against  the 
prevailing  craze  for  European  clothing.  Let  us  hope 
that  it  may  bear  fruit.  Apart  from  this  minor  point, 
however,  there  is  no  portion  of  the  earth’s  surface 
where  the  teaching  of  the  great  message,  “love  one 
another,”  is  more  urgently  required. 

58 


MALE  ATTIRE 


If  dress  can  be  looked  upon  as  a source  of  pleasure, 
widows  in  Papua  are  to  be  envied,  inasmuch  as  they 
are  required  to  adopt  outward  and  visible  signs  of  their 
bereavement.  A widow  of  standing  will  decorate  her- 
self with  a short  and  scanty  bodice  of  woven  grass, 
which  leaves  the  stomach  bare,  while  from  the  hips 
will  hang  a still  more  ragged  form  of  skirt,  usually 
in  an  unspeakably  dirty  state.  Surmounting  all  is 
a peculiarly-shaped  poke  bonnet,  made  of  the  same 
material,  which  fits  tightly  to  the  head  and  projects  in 
front  as  much  as  a foot ; unless  the  lady  wishes  to  be 
seen,  this  completely  hides  her  face.  Young  widows 
are  not  so  careful  to  conceal  their  charms,  and  are 
usually  satisfied  with  the  scantiest  of  skirts  in  the  form 
of  bunches  of  grass  hanging  in  front  and  behind,  and, 
if  they  fancy  it,  with  more  tufts  hanging  from  the 
biceps.  As  may  be  imagined,  these  do  not  favour  the 
bonnet. 

As  is  to  be  expected  in  a country  situated  on  the 
Equator  and  at  the  level  of  the  sea,  clothing  is  practi- 
cally non-existent.  The  style  of  dress  worn  by  the 
men  varies  according  to  the  taste  of  the  individual, 
almost  all  having  some  form  of  pubic  covering.  The 
kind  most  commonly  worn  consists  of  a strip  of  bark 
cloth,  similar  to  that  of  the  women,  but  narrower 
and  shorter,  a large  white  and  flat  sea-shell  placed  on 
the  stomach,  under  which  is  caught  the  prasputium,  or 
a hollow  and  beautifully  carved  bamboo,  five  or  six 
inches  in  length.  On  this  latter  sheath  they  expend 
all  their  ingenuity  and  knowledge  of  carving,  a picture 
of  the  human  eye  occupying  a prominent  position,  as 
it  does  on  all  household  and  personal  articles. 

Tattooing  is  of  the  crudest  description,  and  is  not 

59 


IMPROVING  NATURE 


practised  to  any  great  extent ; it  usually  takes  the  form  of 
scarifying  the  breasts  of  the  women  on  the  inner  sides, 
thus  contracting  the  skin  and  raising  unsightly  ridges 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  or  more  in  height.  Some  few 
have  their  backs  cicatrised  in  a like  manner  ; the  slashes 
are  made  in  any  direction  and,  so  far  as  we  could  judge, 
without  following  any  definite  pattern.  This  operation 
is  performed  with  sharp  shells  heated  in  the  fire ; it  is 
a painful  process,  from  which  the  men  are  exempt, 
except  for  the  tribal  mark  which  they  all  have  on  the 
buttocks,  in  the  shape  of  a diamond  with  three  lines 
radiating  from  the  corners.  The  lobes  of  the  ears  of 
men  and  women  alike  are  pierced,  and  any  ornament 
fancied  by  the  wearer  is  suspended  from  them.  After 
our  arrival  many  of  our  useless  odds  and  ends,  such  as 
saccharine  bottles,  Jew’s  harps,  Ike.,  there  found  a rest- 
ing-place. The  lobes  and  sometimes  the  septum  of  the 
nose  are  likewise  pierced,  the  initiation  ceremony 
taking  place  when  the  child  is  ten  or  twelve  years  of 
age  ; the  hole  is  kept  open  by  a plug  of  wood,  to  which 
a fresh  twist  is  given  daily.  Aseptic  surgery  being 
quite  unknown,  it  is  not  surprising  that  in  many 
instances  the  septum  sloughs  away,  and  the  man  is  left 
with  a nose  as  pointed  as  a needle.  When  it  is  desired 
to  impart  a particularly  fierce  expression  to  the  face, 
the  split  mandible  of  the  hornbill  is  worn  through  the 
hole  in  the  septum.  This  ornament,  consisting  of  two 
thin  white  blades  of  horn,  each  five  to  six  inches  in 
length,  with  the  ends  curving  upwards,  will  so  alter  the 
expression  of  the  wearer  as  to  convert  the  mildest 
looking  man  into  the  fiercest  and  most  truculent  of 
warriors. 

These  savages,  violent  and  hasty  in  temper,  rush  to 

60 


Widow’s  Weeds 

A widow  in  her  weeds  of  tufts  of  grass  and  plaited  bodice 


THE  DRUNKEN  SAVAGE 

arms  on  the  slightest  provocation.  Without  warning, 
a peaceful  village  is  in  a moment  converted  into  a scene 
of  turmoil  and  strife ; spears  whizz  through  the  air, 
clubs  are  wielded  indiscriminately  and  with  murderous 
intent,  while  the  place  resounds  with  wild  yells  of  all 
and  sundry.  It  is  curious  that  the  members  of  small 
communities  such  as  these  cannot  live  together  in 
harmony.  Wakatimi  was  a particularly  guilty  village 
in  this  respect,  a day  rarely  passing  without  noisy  and 
sanguinary  broils,  and  it  was  drink  which  was  largely 
responsible  for  this  state  of  affairs.  Beer-drinking 
parties  set  out  daily  for  the  popular  spot  where  the 
sugar  palms  grew  and  remained  there  for  hours,  return- 
ing sodden  with  alcohol  to  the  village  in  a fit  state  to 
participate  in  any  brawl  or  devilment  which  might  be 
on  foot.  Two  small  boys  usually  accompanied  each 
party  to  climb  and  tap  the  sugar-palms  and  make 
themselves  generally  useful.  The  return  to  the  village 
was  heralded  by  loud  and  discordant  cries  and  much 
singing,  followed  soon  after  by  wife  beating,  house 
burning,  or  some  such  attractive  form  of  amusement. 
One  case,  however,  I must  mention,  which  shows  that 
here,  as  in  other  more  civilised  parts  of  the  world, 
when  a married  couple  quarrel,  it  is  not  always  the 
man  who  has  things  all  his  own  way. 

The  headman  of  Wakatimi,  a pleasant  enough 
creature  when  sober,  invariably  wanted  to  fight  when 
under  the  influence  of  drink,  and  usually  chose  his  wife 
as  the  object  upon  which  to  work  off  his  feelings. 
Returning  one  day  from  a carouse,  he  seized  his  bow 
and  arrows  and  used  his  wife  as  a target.  But  the 
trees  of  the  village  were  in  the  way,  so  taking  to  his 
canoe,  he  pushed  off  into  the  open  stream  and  started 

61 


CORPORAL  PUNISHMENT 

his  practice  afresh.  What  with  the  lurching  of  the 
canoe  and  a muddled  brain  the  shooting  was  decidedly 
poor,  and  this  enabled  his  wife  to  stand  in  comparative 
safety  upon  the  bank  and  dare  him  to  do  his  worst. 
Satisfied  with  the  brave  show,  and  having  exhausted 
his  stock  of  arrows,  he  returned  to  the  shore,  little 
dreaming  of  the  reception  which  awaited  him.  Scream- 
ing with  rage,  the  infuriated  wife  tore  the  bow  from 
his  hands  and  broke  it  into  splinters  over  his  back 
and  over  the  canoe.  Completely  cowed,  he  turned 
and  cooled  his  heated  head  in  the  water,  and  was 
then  driven,  an  abject  and  pitiable  wreck,  to  their  hovel, 
whilst  his  angry  spouse  followed  him  up  and  improved 
the  occasion  with  an  endless  stream  of  Billingsgate. 

Fathers  and  mothers  are  alike  kind  to  their 
children.  As  is  natural,  during  babyhood  the  mother’s 
affection  is  the  stronger,  but  at  the  age  of  five  or  six 
the  boy  frees  himself  from  such  trammels,  goes  out 
when  he  wishes,  does  what  he  chooses,  and  merely 
returns  to  the  family  hut  for  his  due  allowance  of 
sago  and  fish,  or  occasionally  to  refresh  himself  at  the 
maternal  breast.  Girls  are  more  timid,  cling  closely 
to  their  mothers,  and  join  at  an  early  age  in  the  daily 
labour  in  the  sago-swamps ; they  rarely  leave  their 
mothers  until  the  time  comes  for  them  to  found  a new 
home  and  family  of  their  own.  Boys  appear  more 
numerous  than  girls ; possibly,  as  in  Tibet,  a provision 
of  Nature  to  keep  down  the  population.  The  children 
are  well-behaved  little  creatures ; they  know  better 
than  to  behave  disrespectfully  to  their  fathers  or  to 
anyone  bigger  than  themselves,  and  never  hesitate  to 
obey  an  order.  They  are  consequently  treated  with 
kindness  and  are  only  beaten  on  rare  occasions,  and, 

62 


TREATMENT  OF  CHILDREN 

from  what  I have  seen,  only  when  they  deserve  it. 
Uncontrollable  temper  is  their  besetting  sin ; an 
obstreperous  boy,  wild  with  rage  at  being  thwarted, 
will  defy  his  mother  and  all  his  female  relations.  For 
a time  every  persuasive  epithet  is  used  to  reduce  him 
to  submission,  and  not  till  all  peaceful  means  have 
been  exhausted  is  corporal  punishment  resorted  to. 
It  then  descends  like  a tornado  in  the  form  of  a 
shower  of  blows  from  the  irate  mother,  sufficient 
to  drive  all  breath  from  the  body  and  thus  ensure 
silence  and  submission.  I never  saw  a girl  struck. 

Justice,  as  we  understand  the  term,  is  unknown. 
Here,  might  is  right,  and  it  is  entirely  in  the  hands 
of  the  stronger  to  settle  what  is  right  and  what  is 
wrong.  Woman,  the  weaker  creature,  is  consequently 
relegated  to  a very  inferior  position,  and  is,  in  fact, 
the  slave,  body  and  soul,  of  her  lord  and  master, 
becoming  his  property  to  deal  with  as  he  pleases. 
Condemned  to  toil  from  morning  till  night,  beaten  if 
she  does  not  satisfy  his  every  want,  the  wife  seeks  for 
and  prepares  her  master’s  food,  builds  his  hut,  makes 
the  matting  and  bark  cloth  for  his  bedding  and  his 
clothing,  carries  his  household  goods  from  place  to 
place  and  helps  to  pole  his  canoe.  Her  chastity  is  of 
no  value  in  his  eyes,  he  will  offer  her  to  the  first  white 
man  he  meets,  and  probably  to  all  his  friends. 

But  little  ground  is  cultivated.  A few  cocoa-nut 
and  banana  trees  and  two  or  three  dozen  tobacco  plants 
are  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  most  villages,  but 
the  natives  depend  for  their  food -supply  almost 
entirely  upon  what  the  jungle  and  rivers  produce. 
Sago  is  the  staple  food,  and  an  unlimited  supply  is  to  be 
found  in  any  of  the  forest  swamps.  Collection  entails 

63 


NATIVE  DIET 

much  labour,  the  tree  having  to  be  felled  before  the 
food  can  be  extracted.  The  simplest  and  most  usual 
way  of  cooking  the  sago  is  by  rolling  it  into  balls  and 
placing  it  on  the  hot  embers  until  warmed  through, 
when  the  outer  crust  becomes  hard.  It  is  quite  taste- 
less and  gives  little  pleasure  to  a civilised  palate,  but 
that  it  is  nutritious  goes  without  saying,  and  indeed 
is  proved  by  the  splendid  physique  of  the  savages. 
The  next  most  important  article  of  diet  is  fish,  and 
this  can  always  be  obtained  in  ample  quantities  if  the 
water  is  in  good  condition  for  fishing,  and  if  sufficient 
perseverance  is  shown.  Along  the  coast  enough  fish 
can  be  caught  to  supply  the  needs  of  the  villagers 
with  the  minimum  of  exertion.  Meat  is  much  appre- 
ciated and  eagerly  sought  after,  pig  being  considered 
the  daintiest  morsel,  then  wallaby,  cuscus,  and  casso- 
wary. Now  and  again  a bird  is  obtained,  but  this  is 
generally  the  result  of  luck  rather  than  skill. 

The  above  are  the  chief  articles  of  food,  and  any 
other  supplies  which  may  be  brought  in  are  looked 
upon  more  as  occasional  luxuries  than  articles  of  every- 
day diet.  These  comprise  small  alligators,  tortoises, 
iguanas,  snakes,  prawns,  and  last  but  not  least  the 
white  grubs  found  in  the  decaying  trunks  of  the  sugar 
palm.  These  grubs,  which  are  about  two  inches  in 
length  and  nearly  as  thick  as  one’s  little  finger,  are  to 
be  found  in  tens  of  thousands  in  a tree  ripe  enough  to 
support  them,  and  are  looked  upon  as  a great  delicacy. 
It  is  a most  interesting  and  rather  disgusting  sight 
when  a lucky  finder  hauls  the  trunk  of  a grub-bearing 
palm  down  stream  and  grounds  it  on  the  village  shore. 
Apparently  it  then  becomes  the  property  of  all,  or  the 
whole  village  is  invited  to  join  in  the  feast,  which 

64 


A Native  Beauty 

The  belle  of  Parimau  with  her  child.  On  the  right  is  a fishing-net  for  use  in  small  creeks. 


A CURIOUS  DELICACY 


amounts  to  the  same  thing.  Without  loss  of  time 
every  soul — man,  woman,  and  child — troops  down 
to  the  find,  the  tiniest  tots  toddling  in  rear  of  their 
elders,  all  hastening  along  bent  on  being  in  at  the 
death,  each  carrying  whatever  instrument  first  comes 
to  hand  with  which  to  detach  a piece  of  the  richly 
laden  wood.  Others  hasten  up  from  more  distant  huts 
and  join  the  crowd  until  it  resembles  a swarm  of  black 
ants  seething  round  the  body  of  a dead  animal.  From 
time  to  time  one  of  them  having  secured  a good  slice 
breaks  away  from  the  surging  mass  and  departs  to 
devour  his  meal  at  leisure.  For  those  who  remain  to 
deal  with  the  main  portion  of  the  trunk  there  is  now 
no  time  to  be  wasted,  and  the  wriggling  grubs  are 
drawn  from  their  holes  and  popped  into  their  captors’ 
mouths  as  fast  as  they  can  be  seized.  When  the  tree 
brought  in  is  particularly  rich  in  food  the  greedier 
natives  may  be  seen  with  half  a dozen  squirming  grubs 
in  each  hand,  all  destined  for  the  same  sad  end  as  soon 
as  space  can  be  found.  The  sight  is  not  a pretty  one, 
but  it  is  worth  watching  to  see  the  smile  of  satisfaction 
upon  the  faces  of  the  gourmets  as  they  enjoy  this  un- 
expected addition  to  their  usual  monotonous  diet. 

Bananas  grow  well  wherever  there  is  light  and  air, 
but  the  young  shoots  of  this  tree  have  to  be  transplanted, 
and  though  this  entails  but  the  lightest  labour,  they  are 
not  produced  in  any  quantity  except  at  the  village  of 
Obota,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kapard.  There  are  no 
cocoa-nut  trees  along  the  upper  reaches  of  the  rivers, 
though  they  form  an  important  item  in  the  food-supply 
of  the  villages  on  the  coast,  and  with  the  exception  of 
sago,  there  is  practically  no  vegetable  food  found  grow- 
ing in  a wild  state  in  the  forests.  There  is  indeed  a 

65 


E 


A FERTILE  SOIL 


tree  bearing  a small  green  fruit  resembling  a plum  in 
flavour  and  appearance,  but  this  only  ripens  for  a very 
limited  period  of  the  year.  Small  and  tasteless  figs  of 
various  descriptions  are  to  be  met  with,  but  of  such 
poor  quality  as  not  to  be  worth  picking,  besides  which 
a worm  appears  in  them  before  they  ripen.  Near  the 
villages  one  occasionally  sees  one  or  two  bread-fruit  or 
papaya  trees,  but  they  are  few  and  far  between,  and  no 
trouble  is  taken  to  cultivate  them. 

The  natural  richness  of  the  soil  is  such  that  even  the 
most  primitive  methods  of  agriculture  would  be  amply 
rewarded ; but  in  Papua,  as  elsewhere,  one  observes 
that  where  nature  is  most  lavish  in  her  gifts  man  is  too 
indolent  to  make  use  of  them.  That  the  soil  is  of 
great  natural  fertility  was  shown  not  only  by  the 
flourishing  gardens,  the  result  of  a few  months’  work 
on  the  part  of  the  Dutch  soldiers  and  convicts  at 
Wakatimi,  but  also  by  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the 
few  seeds  planted  in  our  small  gardens  at  Parimau.  A 
single  pumpkin  plant  would  grow  completely  over  the 
roof  of  a hut  and,  spreading  to  the  next,  would  envelop 
it  also  in  its  folds.  Rice  grew  and  flourished  without 
any  attention  being  paid  to  it  from  the  day  it  was 
sown ; and  beans,  planted  by  our  Gurkha  escort, 
attained  a height  of  25  feet  within  a few  months  of 
being  placed  in  the  ground,  and  produced  a plentiful 
crop  to  the  great  satisfaction  of  the  sturdy  hillmen  who 
had  introduced  them  into  the  country. 

So  rich  is  the  soil  that  successful  cultivation  is 
rendered  difficult  by  the  great  amount  of  labour 
required  to  keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds  and  other 
parasitic  plants.  The  vigorous  bush  springs  up  im- 
mediately and  relentlessly  throttles  the  foreign 

66 


NATIVE  INDOLENCE 

importation,  so  that,  without  constant  weeding,  the 
cleared  area  in  a comparatively  short  time  reverts  to 
its  forest  growth  ; the  indigenous  weeds  and  shrubs 
indeed  appear  to  flourish  with  renewed  vigour  on  such 
a clearing,  as  if  eager  to  reconquer  the  ground  tempo- 
rarily wrested  from  them  by  the  renegade  plants  which 
exist  only  to  serve  the  needs  of  man.  Before  our 
arrival  the  primitive  tools  in  the  possession  of  the 
savages  made  it  impossible  for  any  thorough  clearing 
of  the  ground  to  be  successfully  carried  out,  but  even 
with  proper  implements  it  is  most  unlikely  that  their 
natural  indolence  will  allow  them  seriously  to  attempt 
the  removal  of  weeds  and  shrubs  which  in  this  country 
of  luxuriant  growth  is  an  essential  preliminary  to  any 
effort  at  cultivation.  Some  axes  we  left  behind,  but 
it  is  highly  probable  that  they  are  now  more  fre- 
quently used  in  family  or  tribal  quarrels  than  for  the 
useful  but  uncongenial  purposes  for  which  they  were 
intended,  and  I do  not  doubt  that  the  forest  has  long 
since  reclaimed  the  flourishing  gardens  which  we  handed 
over  to  the  villages  on  our  departure. 

Such  were  the  people  amongst  whom  we  were  to 
pursue  our  labours  for  the  next  fifteen  months,  and 
such  were  our  first  impressions  of  the  unknown  country 
into  the  interior  of  which  no  European  expedition  had 
hitherto  penetrated.  What  lay  before  us  we  did  not 
know,  but  through  all  our  struggles  and  disappoint- 
ments the  thought  that  we  were  doing  something, 
however  small,  to  lift  the  veil  from  one  of  the  dark 
places  of  the  earth  buoyed  us  up  and  gave  us  courage 
for  further  effort. 


67 


CHAPTER  V 


Shark-fishing — Poor  sport — Barter  and  exchange — A primitive  aboriginal 
— Ugly  rumours — Cannibalism — An  open  question — Difficulties  of 
pioneering — Learning  the  language — A Papuan  canoe — Buying  a fleet 


UR  IN  G the  days  following  our  arrival  at  Wakatimi 


the  work  of  transferring  the  stores  from  the  ship 
to  the  base  camp  was  carried  on  without  intermission, 
and  by  the  ninth  day  everything  had  been  landed,  and 
the  huts  were  in  course  of  erection.  The  forest  had 
been  cleared  over  an  area  of  a couple  of  acres — not  a 
difficult  task,  as  the  land  there  was  more  sparsely  tim- 
bered than  at  any  other  spot  in  the  district. 

During  the  progress  of  this  work,  those  who  were 
still  on  the  ship  varied  the  monotony  of  their  hours  by 
fishing  for  sharks.  Having  heard  that  the  waters  sur- 
rounding New  Guinea  swarmed  with  these  objectionable 
creatures,  we  had,  when  in  Batavia,  purchased  two 
large  iron  hooks  with  wire  attachments  ; these,  together 
with  a good,  strong  rope  and  a few  pounds  of  pork, 
formed  a very  efficient  outfit.  Before  casting  the  bait 
overboard  elaborate  preparations  were  made,  in  Hew  of 
the  anticipated  struggle,  to  bring  a powerful  strain  to 
bear  on  the  fine  as  soon  as  the  hook  was  well  home. 
The  fishermen  had  but  a few  minutes  to  wait  before  a 
steady  pull  on  the  line  showed  that  a shark  had  already 
got  to  work.  Many  willing  hands  grasped  the  rope, 
ready  to  meet  the  rush  which  was  expected,  but,  except 
for  a run  of  a few  yards,  and  half  a dozen  sullen  tugs, 
the  fight  turned  out  a fiasco.  Two  men  were  all  that 
were  required  to  drag  the  beast  alongside ; he  was  there 


68 


SHARK-FISHING 

despatched  with  a couple  of  bullets,  and  the  carcase 
hauled  on  deck.  After  much  chopping  with  axes  the 
hook  was  extracted,  and  the  body  cut  into  pieces  and 
thrown  overboard.  Two  more  were  captured  in  rapid 
succession,  the  bellies  of  each  filled  with  cast-away 
portions  of  their  deceased  relative,  but  neither  gave 
a better  display  of  strength  or  courage  than  the  first 
victim,  though  three  or  four  bullets  were  necessary  to 
finish  them  off.  We  were  surprised  to  find  that  such 
immense  and  reputedly  savage  creatures  could  have  so 
little  fight  in  them.  The  game  proved  so  uninteresting 
that  after  the  capture  of  the  third  victim  it  was  aban- 
doned, and  this  decision  was  the  more  readily  come  to 
as  the  captain  had  strong  objections  to  his  deck  being 
turned  into  a shambles.  When  one  considers  the  size 
of  these  sharks,  it  is  hard  to  believe  that  such  monsters 
are  incapable  of  putting  up  a better  fight  for  their 
lives.  Though  some  of  the  stories  one  has  heard  of 
ferocious  struggles  and  desperate  rushes  made  by  sharks 
when  hooked  are  doubtless  exaggerated,  many  are  so 
well  authenticated  that  one  must  assume  that  the 
sharks  which  abound  in  the  seas  of  New  Guinea  are 
more  cowardly  and  sluggish  than  those  in  other  waters, 
where  they  are  considered  to  afford  good  sport.  None 
of  the  sharks  we  caught  were  small,  and  though  when 
drawn  alongside  the  ship  they  were  quite  anxious  to 
get  away,  they  did  not  seem  to  have  sufficient  strength 
to  do  so.  They  subsist  mainly  on  crabs  and  what  can 
be  found  on  the  bed  of  the  sea.  The  smaller  kind  the 
natives  themselves  catch  and  devour  with  as  much 
relish  as  they  do  other  and  more  prepossessing-looking 
fish.  Sharks  are  always  put  down  as  savage  and  vora- 
cious antagonists  when  they  meet  man  in  their  own 
element,  but  from  what  we  were  able  to  observe  this 

69 


BARTER  AND  EXCHANGE 

cannot  be  considered  as  universally  true.  The  Papuans 
go  far  out  to  sea  in  their  frail  craft,  and  in  rough 
weather  often  get  upset ; in  fact,  this  happened  to  them 
many  times  whilst  hanging  around  our  ship,  but  on  no 
occasion  was  a man  attacked,  nor  did  the  natives  show 
any  fear  of  such  an  eventuality. 

While  those  at  sea  were  enjoying  this  mild  sport, 
those  on  land  had  plenty  of  opportunity  to  examine 
the  people  amongst  whom  they  had  been  cast.  As 
they  had  no  idea  how  long  we  were  to  stay  in  their 
country,  the  Papuans  displayed  great  anxiety  during 
the  first  few  weeks  to  take  our  rubbish  in  exchange 
for  their  most  valued  possessions.  At  this  time 
everything  new  was  precious  in  their  eyes,  however 
useless  in  reality.  Little  enough  they  had  to  barter, 
but  what  they  brought  was  eagerly  sought  for  by  the 
collectors,  or,  if  it  was  in  the  shape  of  food,  by  the 
soldiers  and  coolies.  Paddles,  bows  and  arrows,  carved 
prows  of  canoes,  stone  axes  and  clubs,  cocoa-nuts,  crabs, 
bits  of  fish,  <kc.  were  readily  exchanged  for  old  salmon 
tins,  broken  bottles,  nails,  strips  of  iron  off  the  packing 
cases,  matches,  and  other  odds  and  ends.  It  was 
quite  pitiful  to  see  a bundle  of  elaborately  carved  and 
decorated  arrow-heads  handed  over  for  the  coloured 
label  off  a biscuit  tin ; a paddle  covered  with  intricate 
carving  exchanged  for  a bit  of  broken  looking-glass ; 
or,  as  I once  witnessed,  four  or  five  lbs.  weight  of 
fish  bartered  for  a dirty  sheet  of  newspaper.  It  was 
necessary,  however,  to  keep  the  prices  low  to  start 
with  ; we  soon  found  that  the  price  of  labour  and  other 
commodities  rose  quite  quickly  enough,  for,  with  few 
requirements,  the  indolent  savage  has  no  inducement 
to  do  another  stroke  of  work  when  once  he  has  obtained 
what  he  has  set  his  heart  upon. 

70 


A PRIMITIVE  ABORIGINAL 

For  those  of  us  who  wished  to  study  the  habits  and 
manners  of  the  natives,  there  was  ample  opportunity 
during  the  time  devoted  to  building  and  equipping  the 
base  camp.  We  were  surrounded  day  after  day  by  an 
eager  throng  of  savages,  numerous  enough  to  have 
swamped  the  camp  had  they  been  allowed  to  come 
within  the  fence,  their  natural  reserve  forgotten  in 
the  desire  to  trade.  Endless  questions  forced  them- 
selves upon  the  mind,  and,  among  others,  the  one  as 
to  whether  these  men  were  cannibals  or  not.  The 
inhabitants  of  New  Guinea  and  the  islands  to  the  east 
have  justly  earned  a bad  reputation  with  regard  to 
cannibalism,  but  it  is  open  to  doubt  whether  all  are 
tarred  with  the  same  brush,  and  whether  every  tribe  is 
addicted  to  this  practice.  Opinions  differ  on  this  sub- 
ject, but  the  fact  must  not  be  lost  sight  of  that  a tale 
of  adventure  loses  nothing  in  the  telling  when  set  in  a 
framework  of  ferocious  cannibalism.  The  Mimika 
Papuan  is,  as  yet,  unaffected  by  the  slow  but  sure 
advance  of  civilisation  which  is  by  degrees  causing 
other  races  in  this  part  of  the  world  to  abandon  their 
savage  customs,  and  remains  a representative  of  the 
primitive  aboriginal  who  inhabited  the  land  when 
Australia,  New  Guinea,  and  the  South  Sea  Islands 
formed  one  great  continent. 

Swayed  by  animal  instincts,  his  intelligence  is  of 
a very  low  order ; his  physique,  on  the  contrary,  is 
magnificent,  for  in  this  climate  it  is  a case  of  the  sur- 
vival of  the  fittest.  It  is  in  large  part  due  to  his 
reputation  for  treachery,  ferocity,  and  cannibalism, 
which  has  deterred  even  the  most  enthusiastic  of 
travellers,  that  he  has  existed  undisturbed  in  a state 
of  savagery,  and  that  his  country  has  remained  unex- 
plored and  unmapped  up  to  the  present  time. 

71 


UGLY  RUMOURS 

The  history  of  New  Guinea,  and  of  the  better 
known  British  and  German  sections  in  particular, 
teems  with  examples  of  Papuan  cunning  and  brutality. 
Many  are  the  accounts  related  of  deeds  of  horror 
perpetrated  upon  traders,  missionaries,  gold-diggers, 
and  castaways ; many  are  the  thrilling  stories  of  men 
who  have  been  treacherously  murdered  in  sight  of  their 
friends,  or  who  have  mysteriously  vanished  never  to 
return.  The  larger  number  of  these  reports  are  un- 
doubtedly true,  but  others  are  just  as  surely  exag- 
gerated, for  the  lapse  of  time,  repetition,  and  the 
natural  desire  to  interest  invariably  causes  the  account 
of  an  event  of  this  kind  to  become  embellished  with 
details  which  in  all  probability  have  no  connection  with 
what  actually  happened.  The  following  tale,  however, 
is  undoubtedly  true : 

In  the  year  1858  the  St.  Paul  was  wrecked  off  the 
coast  of  British  New  Guinea,  three  hundred  of  the 
survivors,  all  Chinese,  being  marooned  upon  a small 
island  near  Rossel,  from  whence  no  escape  was  possible. 
They  were  here  fed  and  fattened  by  the  Papuans,  and 
when  required  for  consumption  two  or  three  at  a time 
were  taken  off  to  the  mainland,  where  they  were  boiled 
in  a spring  of  hot  water  and  then  eaten.  Dr.  C.  G. 
Seligmann  throws  some  doubt  upon  the  story,  and 
maintains  that  they  made  rafts  and  sailed  away  to  the 
east;  but  Mr.  J.  H.  Murray,  who  in  1911  carefully 
inquired  into  the  case,  states  that  the  Rossel  Islanders 
owned  up  to  the  murder,  and  added  that  when  they  at 
length  became  surfeited  with  a diet  of  Chinamen  they 
hawked  the  unfortunate  survivors  round  the  coast  and 
sold  them  to  the  highest  bidders,  all  except  one  who, 
from  age  or  leanness,  was  unacceptable  to  even  the  least 
fastidious  taste,  and  who  was  allowed  to  make  his  escape. 

72 


CANNIBALISM 

Many  examples  can  be  quoted,  for  there  is  no 
doubt  that  cannibalism  is  common  in  many  parts  of 
the  island,  and  is  practised  even  in  the  more  settled 
districts  when  it  can  be  done  without  coming  to  the 
notice  of  the  few  white  officials.  The  prevalence  of 
this  custom  seems  to  be  due,  in  the  majority  of  cases, 
simply  to  the  liking  for  human  flesh ; sometimes  an 
enemy  is  eaten  as  an  act  of  revenge,  but  there  is  no 
idea  that  in  so  doing  the  good  qualities  of  the  deceased 
are  acquired.  The  Milne  Bay  tribes  have  been  known 
to  carry  their  liking  for  human  flesh  to  still  greater 
extremes,  going  so  far  as  to  dig  up  and  devour  freshly- 
buried  corpses.  Mr.  Chalmers  relates  a story  of  how 
a Bonarua  woman  dug  up  her  recently  deceased 
husband  to  feed  a friend.  This  act  caused  much  in- 
dignation at  the  time,  not  so  much  because  there  was 
considered  to  be  anything  wrong  in  the  eating  of  the 
flesh  when  exhumed,  but  because  the  men  of  the  tribe 
disliked  the  idea  of  being  devoured  by  their  own  wives. 

In  the  majority  of  cases  the  victim  is  captured  in 
battle  or  by  stealth  in  revenge  for  some  former 
injury — though  it  is  not  uncommon  for  organised  raids 
to  be  made  for  the  express  purpose  of  obtaining  heads 
as  trophies  and  the  bodies  for  food.  If  the  captives  are 
required  for  the  latter  purpose  care  is  taken  not  to  kill 
them  on  the  field  of  battle,  but  to  bind  and  bring  them 
to  the  village  of  the  conquerors  there  to  be  despatched  ; 
the  way  in  which  this  is  done  varying  in  accordance 
with  the  customs  of  the  different  tribes.  As  a rule, 
the  victim  is  finished  off  with  a club,  speared,  or,  after 
being  wrapped  in  dry  leaves,  is  bound  to  a tree  and 
burnt  to  death.  This  latter  method  is  not  always 
successful,  instances  being  on  record  of  the  victim 
bursting  the  half-burnt  cords,  and  though  dreadfully 

73 


CANNIBALISM 

injured,  effecting  his  escape.  In  the  case  of  one  tribe 
this  gruesome  custom  is  not  without  a touch  of  uncon- 
scious humour,  the  members  claiming  that  human 
flesh  is  preferable  to  that  of  pig,  as,  no  matter  what 
quantity  is  eaten,  the  former  never  induces  indigestion. 

Whether  or  not  the  natives  of  the  Mimika  district 
are  addicted  to  cannibalism  it  is  impossible  to  say 
with  certainty.  Savage  races  have  in  many  cases  been 
accused  of  this  practice  on  the  flimsiest  grounds,  and 
unless  the  people  own  to  it  themselves,  or  unmistak- 
able evidence  of  the  fact,  such  as  the  finding  of  remains 
of  a feast,  charred  human  bones,  or  even  fractured 
skulls  is  forthcoming,  it  is  hardly  just  to  write  them 
all  down  as  cannibals.  The  custom  of  filing  the  front 
teeth  to  a point,  which  is  practised  by  so  many  tribes 
in  different  parts  of  the  world,  and  often  assumed  by 
travellers  to  be  a sign  of  cannibalism,  is  also  general 
amongst  the  natives  of  the  Mimika  district ; this,  we 
believe,  is  done,  however,  because  they  consider  that 
pointed  teeth  improve  a man’s  appearance,  and  not 
with  the  idea  of  enabling  them  to  tear  human  flesh 
with  greater  ease. 

The  natives,  when  questioned  by  us  on  the  subject 
of  cannibalism,  at  times  showed  abhorrence,  and  on 
other  occasions  appeared  to  be  merely  amused  at  the 
idea.  Once  or  twice  during  our  stay,  when  trouble 
was  brewing  with  other  villages  and  a fight  seemed 
imminent,  we  asked  them  what  punishment  they  would 
mete  out  to  their  enemies.  With  a wealth  of  most 
realistic  gestures  to  explain  their  meaning,  they  replied 
that  they  would  cut  their  throats,  slice  open  their 
stomachs,  or  cut  off  their  limbs.  To  our  question  : 
Would  they  eat  them?  “ Yes  ! yes!”  was  the  un- 
hesitating reply.  It  seemed  to  us,  however,  that  in 

74 


AN  OPEN  QUESTION 

speaking  thus,  they  were  actuated  more  by  bravado 
than  by  any  real  intention  of  celebrating  their  expected 
victory  by  a cannibalistic  feast.  Skulls  suspended  by 
string  from  the  roof  and  blackened  by  smoke  were  to 
be  seen  in  every  hut.  Sometimes  the  skull  and  larger 
bones  of  the  body  were  kept  together  in  woven  grass 
bags ; and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  these  belonged 
to  deceased  relatives,  for  on  several  occasions  we 
were  able  to  witness  the  collection  and  storage  of 
remains  of  natives  who  had  died  during  our  stay. 
Moreover,  none  of  the  skulls  showed  signs  of  fracture, 
as  would  have  been  the  case  had  they  been  obtained 
in  battle.  Nor  did  we  ever  discover  any  charred  bones 
or  other  traces  of  human  feasts.  To  conclude  this 
subject,  while  we  were  in  the  Mimika  district  we  were 
unable  to  come  to  any  definite  conclusion  as  to  the 
existence  of  cannibalism,  and  at  that  it  must  rest  until 
further  investigation  settles  the  matter  one  way  or 
another. 

During  the  building  of  the  base  camp  one  of  our 
chief  difficulties  was  to  protect  the  more  perishable 
stores  from  the  heavy  rain  which  fell  regularly  at 
four  o’clock  every  afternoon,  and  lasted  for  two  or 
three  hours.  In  spite  of  every  care,  much  food  was 
ruined  owing  to  the  tarpaulin  coverings  giving  no 
better  protection  than  would  cotton  handkerchiefs. 
Cramer  and  his  Javanese  were  better  off  in  this  respect, 
as  they  were  provided  with  ready-made  mats  and  the 
bamboo  framework  for  huts,  and  so  had  no  difficulty 
in  rapidly  erecting  dry  and  airy  go-downs. 

Our  chief  preoccupation  at  this  time,  however,  was 
to  find  a route  to  the  north,  and  the  means  of  trans- 
porting our  stores  to  the  head  of  the  river.  How  far 
off  this  lay,  and  in  what  direction,  we  were  unable  to 

75 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  PIONEERING 

discover,  for  at  this  period,  owing  to  our  entire  ignor- 
ance of  the  dialect,  we  had  no  means  of  questioning  the 
natives  and  of  obtaining  the  information  we  required. 
Furthermore,  no  one  had  ever  been  in  this  part  of  the 
country  before,  and  there  was  no  known  basis  on  which 
to  start  the  most  elementary  conversations. 

The  language  of  signs,  however,  possesses  a rich 
vocabulary  in  which  one  soon  becomes  proficient  when 
the  necessities  of  life  are  required,  and  it  was  to  this  we 
turned  in  our  desire  to  obtain  river  transport.  Fortu- 
nately, the  natives  were  for  the  time  being  wild  on 
barter,  and  anxious  not  only  to  dispose  of  their  super- 
fluous trifles,  but  everything  the}’  possessed.  In  India 
the  conversation  of  the  native  in  the  bazaars  almost 
invariably  turns  upon  the  subject  of  pice  or  ghi,  and 
similarly  in  this  land  of  New  Guinea  the  favourite  topics 
of  discussion  are  either  flesh  or  the  articles  in  daily 
use.  Nevertheless,  in  spite  of  the  lack  of  ideas  and 
the  limited  vocabulary  the  difficulty  experienced  in 
dividing  and  classifying  the  words  passes  belief,  for 
never  twice  would  the  same  word  be  used  for  the  same 
object.  Slowly,  and  with  infinite  patience,  a list  of 
the  commoner  articles  was  compiled,  our  dictionary 
becoming  gradually  more  complete  as  time  went  on. 
At  this  work  Wollaston  and  Cramer  showed  the 
greatest  aptitude,  and  on  their  shoulders  at  this  period 
rested  the  principal  burden  of  conversation.  Not  a 
single  Javanese,  soldier  or  convict,  ever  learnt  a word 
during  the  whole  time  they  remained  in  the  country, 
but  certain  of  the  Gurkhas  showed  considerable  in- 
genuity in  making  themselves  understood.  A few 
common  Malay  words  were  adopted  by  the  Papuans, 
and  these  being  easy  to  pronounce,  the  corresponding 
words  in  the  native  dialect  ultimately  fell  into  disuse. 

76 


Lower  Reaches  of  the  Mimika  River 


LEARNING  THE  LANGUAGE 

Many  months  were  to  elapse  before  we  could  make 
ourselves  readily  understood,  even  on  the  most  ordinary 
topics,  though  it  was  a comparatively  simple  matter, 
and  one  only  requiring  patience  to  discover  and  learn 
the  names  of  the  various  articles ; verbs,  adjectives,  and 
adverbs  are  also  necessary  to  build  up  a sentence,  and 
great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  extracting  these 
from  the  string  of  guttural  sounds,  and  in  obtaining 
their  correct  meaning.  The  natives  never  seemed  to 
grasp  the  fact  that  we  desired  to  learn  their  language ; 
at  times  they  appeared  delighted  with  our  attempts  at 
conversation,  but  more  often  they  would  listen  with  a 
bored  and  abstracted  look.  Even  in  their  happiest 
moods  it  was  found  impossible  to  keep  their  attention 
fixed  on  one  subject  for  many  minutes  at  a time. 

The  purchase  of  canoes  was  quite  a simple  matter, 
the  word  “ Koo  ” being  quite  sufficient  to  express  what 
we  required,  whilst  the  article  to  be  exchanged,  when 
examined  (but  not  touched)  by  the  natives,  determined 
the  price.  Before  the  end  of  the  first  week  a fleet  of 
ten  of  these  craft  had  come  into  our  possession. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  describe  these  canoes 
more  fully,  if  only  to  show  that  the  Papuans  must  be 
possessed  of  greater  energy  and  skill  than  they  are 
usually  credited  with.  Each  canoe  is  from  fifty  to 
sixty  feet  long,  or  even  more  in  length,  and  two  to  two 
and  a half  feet  in  width,  and  is  fashioned  from  a single 
tree  trunk.  The  bows  slope  gently  away  so  as  to 
form  a convenient  platform  for  the  use  of  the  pole, 
whilst  in  the  stern,  where  the  wood  is  of  greater  thick- 
ness, a cross  beam  two  to  three  inches  high  is  left, 
against  which  sand  is  heaped  for  use  as  a fireplace. 
Both  bow  and  stern,  and  in  many  cases  the  sides  also, 
are  carved,  and  on  festive  occasions  planks  of  wood, 

77 


A PAPUAN  CANOE 


elaborately  fretworked,  are  fixed  upright  in  the  bows, 
whilst  the  sides  are  decorated  with  pendant  fringes  of 
grass.  The  crew  consists  of  from  six  to  twelve  men, 
who  paddle  standing  up,  and  it  is  a fine  sight  to  see 
them  drive  their  canoe  through  the  water  with  power- 
ful and  properly-timed  strokes.  Europeans  may  wonder 
how  the  balance  is  preserved  in  what,  at  first  sight, 
appears  to  be  an  exceedingly  rickety  and  unseaworthy 
craft;  but  after  a little  practice  this  becomes  a very 
simple  matter. 

Some  idea  may  be  formed  as  to  the  immense  amount 
of  labour  required  to  build  one  of  these  canoes  when  it 
is  understood  that,  for  shaping  and  hollowing  out  the 
tree,  the  only  tool  available  is  the  primitive  stone  axe, 
whilst  more  intricate  parts  are  finished  off  and  carved 
with  sharpened  shells  and  a small  bit  of  iron,  probably 
obtained  by  barter  on  the  coast.  Trees  of  suitable  size 
and  shape  to  be  fashioned  into  a boat  are  few  in 
number,  and  are  as  a rule  only  to  be  obtained  from 
the  innermost  recesses  of  the  forest.  The  felling  is  a 
laborious  process,  stone  axes  making  but  little  impres- 
sion on  the  hard  wood.  When  levelled,  the  tree  is  cut 
to  the  correct  length  and  roughly  shaped,  after  which  a 
track  has  to  be  cleared  through  the  forest  to  the  river 
bank  and  rollers  laid  along  it.  Finally,  with  the  com- 
bined efforts  of  the  whole  population,  the  giant  log  is 
hauled  and  rocked  along  until  the  river  is  reached.  The 
rough-hewn  canoe  is  then  towed  to  the  village  beach, 
where  it  is  again  hauled  high  and  dry,  and  the  weary 
task  of  shaping  and  hollowing  commenced.  When  this 
is  complete  the  sides  are  carved  and  the  bottom  burnt 
in  order  to  keep  out  the  boring  insects  which  quickly 
invade  all  dead  timber  in  this  climate.  Then  comes 
the  ceremony  of  launching  and  the  trial  run,  during 

78 


Canoe  Building 

Roughly  shaping  a canoe  from  a tree  felled  in  the  depth  of  the  forest.  Levering  the  prepared  log  towards  the  river. 


BUYING  A FLEET 


which  the  builders  are  easily  distinguishable  amongst 
the  excited  throng  by  their  complacent  and  self-satisfied 
demeanour. 

So  keen  were  the  natives  on  trading  that,  on  our 
arrival,  the  pick  of  these  boats  could  be  purchased  for  a 
knife  and  a handkerchief  apiece,  but  the  demand  was 
continuous,  and  the  price  steadily  rose  till  an  axe  had 
to  be  given,  and  towards  the  end  of  our  stay  even  the 
offer  of  two  axes  sometimes  failed  to  clinch  the  bargain. 
Wakatimi  was  soon  sold  out,  but  the  news  spread,  and 
before  long  other  canoes  were  brought  in  for  sale  from 
the  outlying  coast  villages. 

We  were  fortunate  in  obtaining  even  this  primitive 
means  of  transport,  for  had  the  people  been  hostile  or 
adverse  to  selling,  the  expedition  would  have  been  in- 
definitely delayed  at  the  base.  Not  one  of  our  men  was 
capable  of  constructing  any  kind  of  boat,  and  it  was  out 
of  the  question  to  attempt  to  cut  a passage  to  the  hills 
through  the  swampy  and  almost  impenetrable  forest 
zone.  Nevertheless,  we  had  to  submit  to  a certain 
amount  of  delay,  for  when  the  question  of  transport 
had  been  satisfactorily  settled  the  Mimika  rose  in  flood, 
and  as  we  had  no  launch  to  assist  us,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  make  headway  against  the  current. 

I may  here  mention  that  no  expedition  should  ever 
enter  New  Guinea,  essentially  a land  of  water  trans- 
port, without  at  least  one  launch.  We  had  none,  and 
to  this  was  due  much  loss  of  time,  an  endless  amount 
of  trying  manual  labour,  and  a certain  proportion  of  the 
sickness  amongst  the  coolies.  The  latter,  accustomed 
to  the  slothful  life  of  the  East  Indian  Islands,  were 
totally  unfit  to  stand  the  daily  strain  of  eight  hours’ 
heavy  toil. 


79 


CHAPTER  VI 


A missing  comrade — A fruitless  search — A heavy  blow — Unprofitable  zeal — 
River  navigation — Collecting  a transport — The  Mimika  River — Diffi- 
cult navigation — River  flora — River  fauna — Big  game — Wallaby  and 
cuscus — Insect  pests — Snakes — A day  of  surprises — An  extraordinary 
welcome 


ANITARY  10  had  been  fixed  upon  as  the  date  on 


which  the  first  prospecting  party  was  to  set  out, 
and  all  arrangements  had  been  completed  when  an 
event  occurred  which  cast  a gloom  over  the  camp  for 
a long  time  to  come. 

The  morning  of  the  9th  opened  with  a cloudless  sky 
which,  as  we  knew  only  too  well,  would  be  succeeded 
by  torrential  rain  in  the  afternoon.  Mr.  W.  Stalker,  a 
keen  and  successful  collector,  well  known  throughout 
Australasia  and  British  Papua,  had  joined  the  expedi- 
tion at  Amboina.  Familiar  with  jungle  life  and  accus- 
tomed to  wandering  alone  through  untrodden  paths,  he 
left  the  camp  unattended,  passing  out  with  the  remark 
that  he  was  going  to  do  a little  shooting  in  the  vicinity. 
The  usual  downpour  took  place  about  three  o’clock,  but 
as  we  heard  gunshots  from  time  to  time  during  the 
afternoon,  no  anxiety  as  to  his  absence  was  felt  until 
darkness  set  in.  It  was  then  too  late  to  render  assist- 
ance or  send  out  search  parties,  for  the  night  was  pitch 
dark  and  the  lashing  rain  drowned  every  sound.  No 
natives  were  at  hand,  and  even  had  they  been  there  to 
act  as  guides,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  follow 
any  track  in  such  a tremendous  downpour.  To  move 


80 


A MISSING  COMRADE 


even  fifty  yards  into  the  forest  after  dusk  without  losing 
one’s  bearings,  new  as  we  were  to  the  country,  was  a 
task  beyond  our  power.  Through  the  long  hours  of 
the  night  we  waited  anxiously,  expecting  to  hear  a 
warning  shot  or  some  sound  of  his  return,  but,  as  hour 
after  hour  passed  by  and  he  did  not  arrive,  we  could 
only  hope  that  he  had  found  shelter  in  a native  hut. 
Morning  dawned,  but  there  was  still  no  sign  of  our 
companion. 

Lieutenant  Cramer  at  once  organised  his  soldiers 
into  small  parties  and  despatched  them  in  various  direc- 
tions to  clear  paths  through  the  dense  undergrowth  and 
search  every  foot  of  the  country  on  either  side.  Both 
Gurkhas  and  Europeans  turned  out,  taking  charge  of 
a few  coolies,  a separate  area  of  forest  being  allotted  to 
each  party,  whilst  the  natives,  now  aware  of  what  had 
happened,  vanished  by  unknown  paths  to  examine  all 
most  likely  spots.  One  after  another  the  search  parties 
returned  to  camp,  only  to  report  that  no  trace  was  to 
be  found  of  our  missing  comrade.  Not  a footprint,  not 
a blazed  tree  trunk  or  a broken  twig  or  even  an  ex- 
pended cartridge  could  be  seen,  nothing  which  gave 
the  slightest  clue  as  to  his  movements. 

Throughout  this  and  the  following  day  was  the 
fruitless  search  continued,  and  it  was  not  till  the  morn- 
ing of  the  12th,  when  two  or  three  Papuans,  who  had 
gone  out  in  their  canoe  to  fish,  found  his  body  in  a 
small  creek  less  than  half  a mile  from  the  camp,  that 
we  learnt  how  Stalker  had  met  his  fate.  Along  this 
very  creek  search  parties  had  moved  backwards  and  for- 
wards several  times,  struggling  through  the  tangled 
creepers  which  almost  hid  the  water  from  view.  Stalker 
must  have  wandered  on  into  the  jungle  until  overtaken 
by  the  storm  and  the  gathering  darkness,  and  then, 

81  P 


A HEAVY  BLOW 


having  lost  the  direction  of  the  camp,  instead  of  settling 
down  to  spend  the  night  as  best  he  might  until  a search 
party  arrived  in  the  morning,  must  have  tried  to  fight 
his  way  back.  He  had  recently  suffered  from  fever, 
and  this,  combined  with  the  exhaustion  resulting  from 
his  desperate  efforts  to  escape  from  the  entangling  jungle 
and  swamp,  must  have  so  weakened  him  that  at  last  he 
was  incapable  of  climbing  out  of  the  creek  into  which 
he  had  collapsed.  He  was  buried  the  same  day,  beneath 
the  shade  of  the  one  large  tree  left  standing  in  the  space 
cleared  round  the  camp. 

His  grave  was  not  to  remain  solitary  for  long : 
disease  and  accident  were  to  claim  only  too  many  of 
our  small  community,  and  here,  around  the  tree,  were 
laid  all  who  died  during  the  months  which  followed. 

Stalker’s  death  was  a blow  which  we  felt  for  many 
a long  day.  Though  he  had  not  been  with  us  for  long, 
we  knew  that  we  had  lost  not  only  a capable  and  work- 
manlike collector,  but  also  a comrade  whom  we  could 
ill  spare. 

The  Nias,  having  landed  her  stores,  returned  to 
Dobo  to  bring  on  those  coolies  for  whom  accommoda- 
tion could  not  be  found  on  the  first  trip.  Whilst  she 
was  away,  Cramer,  Goodfellow  and  I took  the  oppor- 
tunity of  making  a preliminary  expedition  towards  the 
mountains,  following  the  Mimika  up-stream  in  the 
newly  purchased  canoes.  Our  first  attempt  can  hardly 
be  described  as  a success,  for  in  two  days  we  had  not 
been  able  to  proceed  beyond  a point  six  miles  from 
camp,  where  a small  branch  stream  flowed  into  the 
Mimika.  Farther  than  this  the  Papuans  refused  to 
go,  in  spite  of  liberal  offers  of  payment,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  return  to  our  base  without  having  seen  a 
hill  or  gained  information  of  any  value. 

82 


COLLECTING  A TRANSPORT 

In  the  meantime  the  enlisted  coolies,  one  hundred 
in  number,  had  arrived  from  Dobo.  When  in  Amboina 
I had  had  a glimpse  of  these  men,  but  disappointing 
though  they  looked,  they  were  so  disguised  beneath 
a covering  of  black  frock-coats,  bowler  hats,  and 
brilliantly-coloured  sarongs  (a  loose  skirt),  as  to  give 
no  idea  of  their  true  value.  In  these  same  garments 
they  now  appeared  in  the  tropical  jungle  of  New 
Guinea,  in  the  land  of  the  naked  savage ; and  a more 
miserable-looking  crew  I have  never  seen.  The  majority 
were  of  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  but  it  was  not  so 
much  this  that  shocked  us,  as  that  the  maimed,  the 
halt,  and  the  blind  of  the  East,  seemed  to  have  been 
specially  selected  for  the  work  in  hand.  So  bad  were 
they,  that  it  was  at  once  realised  that  the  majority 
would  be  more  certain  to  hamper  the  advance  than 
account  for  any  work,  and  that  the  only  thing  to  be 
done  was  to  retain  the  least  unsuitable  and  return 
the  remainder  to  Amboina.  The  hundred  were  drawn 
up  in  line,  and  the  medical  officers,  Wollaston  and 
Marshall,  proceeded  to  cast  out  the  radically  unfit. 
Fifty  were  so  disposed  of,  and  without  delay  packed 
into  the  boats  and  sent  on  board  the  Nias,  to  be  taken 
back  to  their  homes ; I may  add,  at  no  slight  expense. 
I mention  this  not  in  a cavilling  spirit,  but  as  a warn- 
ing as  to  how  coolie  transport  should  not  be  collected 
by  future  expeditions,  and  also  in  simple  fairness  to  the 
members  as  a reason  why  the  advance  into  the  moun- 
tains was  so  long  delayed. 

The  fifty  coolies  we  had  retained  were  entirely 
ignorant  of  any  form  of  river  work,  and  had  such 
strong  objections  to  entering  the  frail  canoes,  that 
the  boats  had  to  be  tied  together  in  pairs  before  they 
could  be  persuaded  to  take  their  places.  The  result 

83 


RIVER  NAVIGATION 

of  this  compromise  was  that,  however  hard  the  crews 
paddled,  four  or  five  miles  was  the  utmost  distance  that 
could  be  covered  from  sunrise  to  dusk.  With  a dozen 
of  these  gaily  dressed  Malays  and  a few  fresh  natives 
a second  attempt  was  made  to  explore  the  Mimika, 
Shortridge  in  this  instance  taking  the  place  of  Cramer. 
The  fleet  looked  quite  imposing  as  it  set  forth,  but  on 
the  second  day  out  half  the  Papuans  deserted,  and  the 
remainder  on  the  day  following,  so  that  our  men,  now 
that  the  work  was  thrown  entirely  upon  their  shoulders, 
were  compelled  to  take  their  first  serious  lesson  in  river 
navigation.  To  give  them  their  due,  bad  as  they  were 
at  the  start,  many  of  the  imported  coolies  quickly 
mastered  the  rudiments  of  successful  river  travel  and, 
as  the  months  went  by,  those  who  survived  the  strain 
of  this  arduous  and  continuous  labour,  became  nearly 
as  proficient  in  paddling  as  the  Papuans  themselves. 

The  exploration  of  an  unknown  river  is  always  a 
matter  of  interest,  and  the  Mimika,  however  much  we 
grew  to  dislike  the  sight  of  the  monotonous  waters  as 
the  novelty  wore  off,  on  this,  the  pioneer  journey,  was 
full  of  fascinating  charm. 

Of  the  many  rivers  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the 
Mimika  is  one  of  the  smallest ; in  fact,  as  we  had  already 
discovered  on  our  way  up  from  the  sea,  it  is  but  a 
tributary  of  the  Watuka,  and  rises  in  the  low  foot-hills, 
twenty  miles  or  more  short  of  the  main  range,  and  sixty 
to  seventy  miles  west  of  Carstensz,  in  which  mountain 
we  had  hoped  its  source  would  be  found.  The  size  of 
its  mouth,  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  amount  of  water 
entering  the  sea,  had  deceived  the  Dutch  three  years 
previously,  and  had  induced  Goodfellow,  on  the  strength 
of  their  report,  to  adopt  it  as  our  line  of  advance  to  the 
interior,  instead  of  the  large  and  navigable  Utakwa, 

84 


DIFFICULT  NAVIGATION 

lying  many  miles  to  the  east.  It  lies  at  a lower  alti- 
tude than  any  of  the  other  streams  flowing  to  the  south, 
consequently  its  current  is  more  sluggish,  and  the  turns 
and  twists  more  numerous.  In  many  places  the  river 
doubles  back  upon  itself  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is 
possible  to  stand  on  a narrow  neck  of  land  with  the 
river  flowing  a few  yards  away  on  either  hand,  whilst 
to  bring  the  canoe  from  one  place  to  the  other,  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes’  hard  paddling  is  required.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  the  flow  of  water  is  most  irregular  and 
entirely  dependent  on  the  local  rainfall,  being  unaffected 
in  any  way  by  what  falls  on  the  highlands  of  the  main 
range.  One  day  a swirling  torrent,  the  next  the  river 
may  have  dwindled  to  the  veriest  trickle,  forming 
nothing  but  a series  of  pools  joined  by  shallow  runs. 
Under  ordinary  conditions  a launch  can  be  navigated 
for  a distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  above  Wakatimi, 
and  when  the  water  is  exceptionally  high,  as  much  as 
twenty  to  twenty-five  miles ; in  the  latter  case,  how- 
ever, there  is  always  the  risk  of  the  waters  suddenly 
falling  and  leaving  the  boat  stranded  high  and  dry, 
without  a prospect  of  release  until  a fresh  flood  comes 
down.  A more  difficult  river  upon  which  to  maintain 
a continuous  service  of  transport  canoes  it  is  impossible 
to  imagine,  for  when  in  flood  poling  of  the  boats  is  out 
of  the  question,  as  no  bottom  can  be  found  and  paddles 
are  useless  to  force  a way  against  the  current,  whilst,  if 
the  water  is  low,  the  heavily-laden  boats  have  to  be 
hauled  along  by  main  force,  over  mud  and  gravel  slopes, 
rocked  over  huge  trunks  of  trees,  or  forced  beneath 
masses  of  tangled  foliage.  When,  as  the  result  of  con- 
tinuous rainfall,  the  flood  is  on  a large  scale,  the  whole 
of  the  surrounding  country  is  inundated  to  such  an 
extent  that  no  ground  remains  exposed  upon  which  to 

85 


RIVER  FLORA 


camp.  Nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  the  forest  on  either 
hand  and  the  immediate  stretch  of  water  in  front  and 
behind,  nor  does  the  traveller  ever  catch  a glimpse  of 
the  mountains  to  which  he  knows  he  is  drawing  nearer 
day  by  day. 

Upon  the  dank  and  mud-covered  banks  flourishes 
the  most  dense  and  luxuriant  vegetation  imaginable, 
containing  specimens  of  almost  every  tree  and  shrub 
to  be  found  in  the  tropics — Pandanus,  Artocarpus,  Erio- 
dendron,  Albizzia  moluccana — Ficus  of  many  varieties, 
sago,  Octomoles  moluccana,  and  all  bound  into  a 
tangled  impenetrable  mass  by  innumerable  rattans 
and  creepers.  Although  relieved  now  and  again  by 
a blaze  of  the  scarlet  Mucana  pruriens,  the  effect  of 
this  sombre  bank  of  dark  green  is  anything  but  an 
inducement  to  the  traveller  to  explore  the  swampy 
land  hidden  below  and  beyond. 

The  great  difficulty  experienced  in  transporting 
stores  over  the  six  stages  between  the  base  camp 
and  the  up-river  station  necessitated  a regular  service 
of  canoe  convoys  being  maintained  on  the  Mimika 
throughout  our  stay  in  New  Guinea,  and  the  deadly 
monotony  of  the  journey  made  this  the  most  un- 
popular of  all  the  duties.  Still  there  was  always 
something  of  interest  to  be  observed  in  the  animal 
life  wdiich  infested  this  vraterway,  serving  to  relieve 
the  mind  from  the  perpetual  rhythm  of  the  paddles, 
and  giving  one  something  else  to  watch  besides  the 
erratic  movements  of  the  polers  balancing  themselves 
in  the  bows.  Alligators,  though  seldom  of  large  size, 
bask  on  the  sandbanks  at  the  bends  of  the  river  ; they 
are  never  aggressive,  and  are  very  different  in  this 
respect  from  those  to  be  found  in  the  rivers  of  Borneo 
and  in  other  parts  of  New  Guinea.  There  is  no  doubt 

86 


RIVER  FAUNA 

that  some  obtain  to  a great  size.  One  immense  creature 
was  seen  on  various  occasions  opposite  Wakatimi,  its 
appearance  stirring  the  hunters  to  life,  but  rousing 
no  fear  amongst  the  children  splashing  about  in  the 
water ; the  latter,  in  fact,  looked  upon  it  as  giving  an 
additional  zest  to  their  games.  Iguanas,  large,  hideous 
and  uncouth,  dart  from  cover  to  cover  ; occasionally 
a turtle  flops  lazily  from  the  mud  into  the  water  ; and 
perhaps,  a few  yards  farther  on,  a poisonous  water- 
snake  is  seen  wriggling  his  way  along  the  surface  of 
the  stream  to  the  shady  bank  where  safety  is  to  be 
found.  It  is  impossible  to  resist  the  temptation  of 
striking  at  these  reptiles,  for  it  looks  as  if  one  blow 
of  the  paddle  would  kill  them  instantly.  As  a 
matter  of  fact  it  is  almost  impossible  to  kill  them 
when  swimming,  and  it  is  better  to  leave  them  in 
peace  when  thus  found,  for  when  struck  they  make 
straight  for  the  canoe,  and  with  a particularly  rapid 
rush  try  to  clamber  up  the  sides.  A poisonous  snake 
in  a closely-packed  canoe  is  not  a pleasant  companion. 

At  any  moment  on  rounding  a bend  one  may  see 
a pair  of  crown  pigeons  (goura),  each  as  large  as  a 
small  turkey,  their  grey-blue  crests  opening  and  clos- 
ing and  their  orange-red  eyes  glittering  with  anxiety. 
They  are  ground  feeders  and  eat  anything,  even  crabs. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  birds  in  existence,  one 
of  the  most  foolish,  and,  from  the  point  of  view  of  the 
hungry  traveller,  one  of  the  most  valuable.  A flash 
of  blue  and  a kingfisher  darts  past,  a vision  of  exquisite 
turquoise ; some  species  as  small  as  a tit,  others  as  large 
as  a thrush.  Overhead  pass  a pair  of  hornbills,  always 
suspioious  and  always  noisy,  looking  every  moment  as 
if  they  would  overbalance,  so  heavy  and  cumbersome 
are  their  heads.  These  birds  invariably  move  in  pairs, 

87 


BIG  GAME 


the  black-necked  female  in  front,  the  yellow-necked 
male  following,  except  in  the  breeding  season,  when 
the  hen  is  imprisoned  in  some  hole  in  a tree  and 
there  detained  during  the  egg-hatching  period  by  the 
male.  who.  distrusting  his  mate's  sincerity  in  her 
work,  plasters  up  the  aperture  with  mud.  leaving  but 
a small  opening  through  which  he  administers  food  to 
his  hungry  spouse.  The  whirring  clouds  of  lories  and 
chattering  parrots,  the  shrill  cries  of  the  gorgeous  birds 
of  paradise,  and  the  twitterings  of  endless  other  species 
of  birds,  lend  a charm  to  water  travel  which  would 
otherwise  be  insupportable  in  its  monotony. 

Now  and  again  bigger  game  is  encountered.  Pig, 
both  brown  and  black  in  colour,  imported  into  the 
land  centuries  ago  as  village  swine,  are  to  be  found 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  country 
running  in  a wild  state,  and  strenuously  hunted  by 
the  savages : the  cassowary,  the  great  black  ostrich- 
like  bird  with  a head  and  neck  of  many  colours  ; the 
night -loving  cuscus,  creeping  slowly  from  bough  to 
bough,  brown,  yellow,  white,  and  all  colours  of  the 
rainbow — all  good  for  food  from  the  point  of  view 
of  the  native,  and  all  very  shy,  retreating  to  the  inner- 
most recesses  of  the  forest  on  the  first  sign  of  danger. 
Sometimes  a tree  will  be  seen  laden  with  flying 
foxes,  hanging  head  downwards,  and  the  females  with 
their  young  fixed  firmly  to  their  breasts  ; horrid,  un- 
natural-looking creatures  with  their  slow  heavy  flight, 
claws,  and  beady  eyes. 

Then  there  is  the  wallaby,  a small  prototype  of  the 
kangaroo.  Twice  were  they  shot  on  the  river  and 
brought  into  camp,  and  when  being  skinned  were 
found  to  have  young  in  their  pouches.  One  of  these 
babies  was  over  10  inches  in  length,  but  too  small  to 

88 


WALLABY  AND  CUSCUS 

be  brought  up  by  hand.  He  was  perfectly  formed 
and  uninjured,  but  would  never  have  lived  without  the 
warmth  his  mother  could  always  give  him.  It  was 
pitiable  to  see  the  little  creature  when  placed  on  the 
ground,  make  for  his  dead  mother  and  at  once  worry 
his  way  into  her  pouch  and  out  of  sight.  The  other 
was  no  bigger  than  a small  walnut,  and  yet  had  been 
born  and  was  to  be  developed  by  the  milk  from  the 
teats  which  lie  inside  the  pouch.  It  is  a pity  we  never 
secured  one  of  these  animals  alive  and  uninjured,  of  an 
age  at  which  there  was  a good  chance  of  its  being 
brought  up  alive,  as  with  their  soft  fur,  large  brown 
eyes  and  gentle  disposition  they  would  certainly 
make  the  pleasantest  of  pets.  Very  different  was  it 
with  the  cuscus  (phalanger)  captured.  Nastier  little 
animals  it  is  impossible  to  imagine.  Snappish,  with 
jaws  of  steel  and  claws  like  fish-hooks,  they  bite  when- 
ever given  a chance,  and  tear  one’s  skin  to  bits. 
They  would  never  stay  on  the  ground  for  a moment, 
making  for  the  first  pole  or  tree  they  saw,  from  which 
they  had  to  be  forcibly  dislodged.  All  escaped  sooner 
or  later,  either  forcing  the  bars  of  their  cages  or  eating 
their  way  through,  and  no  one  showed  undue  sorrow  at 
their  departure. 

There  is,  however,  another  and  more  disagreeable 
side  to  life  on  the  river  which  almost  outweighs  the 
pleasures  to  be  derived  from  the  sight  of  birds  and 
mammals.  Over  the  dark  and  stagnant  pools,  on  the 
mudbanks  and  in  the  forest,  hover  clouds  of  mosquitoes, 
whose  ruling  instinct,  as  we  learnt  to  our  cost,  is  the 
quest  for  human  blood.  Fortunately  for  man,  the 
anopheles  mosquito,  the  carrier  of  the  malarial  germ, 
exists  only  in  moderate  numbers,  otherwise  life  would 
be  quite  insupportable.  As  it  is,  the  stings  and  irrita- 

89 


INSECT  PESTS 


tions  of  his  brethren  are  sufficiently  maddening  to  make 
existence  burdensome,  though  some  relief  is  to  be 
obtained  when  halted  by  clearing  the  scrub  in  the  near 
vicinity  of  the  camp,  or  at  night  by  seeking  refuge 
beneath  a mosquito-net. 

In  addition  to  these  pests,  leeches  dangle  from 
every  leaf  and  branch,  immediately  attaching  them- 
selves to  any  part  of  the  body  with  which  they  come 
in  contact,  and,  as  I veribly  believe,  dropping  on  the 
wayfarer  when  passing  beneath,  attracted  merely  by 
the  scent  of  blood.  Their  bites  often  result  in  nasty 
sores  which,  in  this  damp  climate,  do  not  readily 
respond  to  doctoring,  and  sometimes  become  so  bad  as 
to  necessitate  the  sufferer  being  invalided  out  of  the 
country.  So  insidious  is  the  attack  of  these  hateful 
creatures  that  one  is  often  unaware  of  their  presence 
till  a stream  of  blood  welling  through  the  clothing 
shows  that  one  of  them  has  been  sucking  blood  from 
a vein,  in  which  case  a bandage  must  be  applied  to  stop 
the  bleeding. 

The  worst  of  all  places  for  them  to  attach  them- 
selves is  the  eyeball.  So  light  and  unsuspected  is 
their  attack  that  on  several  occasions  two  or  three 
crept  between  the  eyelids  without  their  presence 
being  detected,  and  the  first  intimation  received  was 
the  blurring  of  the  vision.  It  is  almost  better  when 
this  happens  to  let  them  have  their  fill  of  blood  and 
drop  off  when  satiated,  than  to  remove  them  by  force, 
for  less  damage  is  done  thereby  to  the  flesh,  but  in 
either  case  very  severe  inflammation  of  the  eyes  is 
the  result. 

The  worst  of  all  these  insect  plagues,  however,  are 
the  bluebottles,  which  are  of  immense  size.  What 
they  live  on  is  a mystery,  but  they  exist  in  millions, 

90 


SNAKES 

attacking  with  ferocity  any  food  left  uncovered  for 
a second,  and  swarming  in  clouds  upon  any  blanket  or 
discarded  article  of  clothing,  absorbed  in  the  one  idea 
of  finding  a suitable  spot  on  which  to  deposit  their 
eggs.  The  swarms  appear  to  increase  in  numbers 
towards  sundown,  when  the  hunt  for  a breeding-place 
reaches  its  climax,  and  if  any  success  has  been  met 
with,  the  ova  become  grubs  before  the  morning,  a 
never-to-be-forgotten  reminder  of  what  a moment’s 
forgetfulness  means. 

Ticks  are  fairly  plentiful,  but  never  quite  so  objec- 
tionable as  a certain  small  caterpillar  which  delights  to 
flop  on  to  one’s  body  from  the  roof,  there  to  eject  such 
a pungent  odour  of  formalin  as  to  call  for  the  use  of 
soap  and  much  scrubbing  before  it  can  be  removed. 

Shall  I speak  of  the  large  crickets  which  eat  one’s 
clothes  to  shreds  in  a night ; or  of  the  minute  bees 
which  crawl  in  myriads  over  one’s  skin  when  heated 
after  exercise  ? But  no ; the  list  is  long  enough,  and 
the  memory  of  these  pests  recalls  too  many  unpleasant 
reminiscences  to  incline  one  to  dwell  on  their  objection- 
able habits.  A nice  land  indeed  ! 

To  leave  the  insects  alone  and  to  turn  to  the 
rather  less  obnoxious  inhabitants  of  the  forest,  snakes 
are  unpleasantly  numerous,  even  for  a collector  desirous 
of  enriching  his  reptile  collection.  Many  are  deadly, 
but  amongst  these  must  not  be  included  the  largest, 
the  python.  The  finest  python  killed  by  us  only 
measured  fourteen  feet,  and  though  much  greater  ones 
doubtless  exist  in  the  island,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
large  mammals  it  is  not  likely  that  they  ever  approach 
in  size  those  to  be  found  in  Borneo.  Numerous  as 
were  the  poisonous  varieties  of  snakes,  there  was  not 
one  single  case  of  snake-bite  amongst  our  followers 

91 


THE  EARLY  MORNING 


during  our  stay  in  the  country,  although  the  men  invari- 
ably moved  about  with  bare  feet.  This  is  all  the  more 
remarkable,  as  the  favourite  sleeping-places  of  these 
reptiles  are  paths  made  and  frequented  by  man,  and 
hardly  a day  passes  without  two  or  three  being  seen 
and  killed  on  the  tracks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp. 
The  natives  showed  extraordinary  fearlessness  in  catch- 
ing the  poisonous  specimens,  grasping  them  behind  the 
head  before  they  had  time  to  strike,  severing  the  head 
from  the  body  with  a split  piece  of  cane,  and  popping 
the  body  into  their  bags  for  the  evening  meal. 

Jt  was  in  the  early  morning,  when  the  sun’s  rays 
first  caught  the  tops  of  the  trees  that  life  was  most 
enjoyable ; then  was  the  time  for  the  forest  to  burst 
forth  with  the  music  of  the  jungle ; then  was  the  sky 
free  of  cloud,  while  whisps  of  mist  hung  over  the  water 
and  the  forest  was  still  dark  with  the  lingering  shadows 
of  the  night.  Far  rosier  did  life  at  that  hour  appear  than 
in  the  late  hours  of  the  afternoon  when  the  fatigue  of 
the  day’s  work  was  still  upon  one,  when  the  rain  poured 
down,  driven  hither  and  thither  by  the  eddying  gusts 
of  wind,  and  when,  in  addition,  the  discomfort  of  un- 
lightable  fires  and  sodden  baggage  tended  to  make  one 
feel  despondent  and  depressed.  Still,  it  is  impossible 
to  have  the  sweet  without  the  bitter,  and  this  our  first 
trip  into  the  unknown  interior  will  remain  for  ever 
stamped  in  our  memories. 

On  the  fourth  and  fifth  day  out  we  struggled  along 
as  best  we  could,  each  one  taking  his  turn  with  pole 
or  paddle,  heaving  the  boats  over  sunken  logs  and 
shoals,  or  carrying  them  bodily  round  the  worst  obstacles. 
This,  however,  was  the  last  day  during  which  we  were 
to  labour  without  help  or  guidance,  for  early  the  next 
morning,  when  we  were  at  breakfast,  a canoe-load  of 

92 


At  Parimau  An  Elderly  Widow 

The  headman  with  his  stone  club.  In  her  mourning  weeds  of  matting  and  wearing  the  poke  bonnet. 


A DAY  OF  SURPRISES 


Papuans  suddenly  swept  round  a bend,  and  in  a 
moment  had  grounded  their  boat  close  at  hand. 
Though  noticeably  nervous,  it  was  evident  that  they 
had  been  warned  of  our  approach,  and  had  grasped  the 
fact  that  our  intentions  were  not  hostile,  for,  after  a 
little  coaxing,  they  settled  down  by  our  fires  and  joined 
in  the  meal,  all  the  time  urging  us  to  make  haste  on 
the  next  stage. 

The  morning  was  to  be  full  of  surprises.  Two 
miles  farther  on,  when  we  were  still  thinking  how 
infinitely  pleasanter  it  was  to  be  poled  up  the  river 
than  to  have  to  do  the  work  oneself,  a band  of  women, 
whose  sole  coverings  were  girdles  of  leaves  plucked 
from  the  undergrowth,  burst  forth  from  the  forest,  and 
raced  over  a mud  flat  towards  us,  uttering  weird  and 
discordant  cries.  Choosing  the  muddiest  spot,  they 
flung  themselves  headlong  into  the  filth,  and,  still 
maintaining  the  chorus  of  wild  yells,  rolled  over  and 
over,  smearing  the  slime  over  their  faces  and  into  their 
hair.  Having  made  themselves  perfectly  repulsive  to 
our  eyes,  they  fell  a-dancing,  evidently  with  the  object 
of  captivating  our  affections,  but  just  as  they  were 
reaching  the  highest  pitch  of  excitement,  a signal  from 
the  men  brought  them  to  a dead  stop.  Complete 
silence  ensued,  and  then  all,  men  and  women  alike, 
standing  quite  still,  placed  their  hands  over  their  eyes 
and  burst  into  tears.  Such  agonised  weeping  and  such 
heart-breaking  wails  it  has  never  been  my  lot  to  listen 
to  before  or  since.  One  moment  there  would  be  a 
succession  of  gasping  sobs,  to  be  followed  by  a series  of 
ear-piercing  shrieks,  the  bodily  and  mental  exertion 
being  so  great  as  to  cause  the  tears  to  pour  down  their 
cheeks,  and  great  beads  of  perspiration  to  stand  out  on 
their  bodies. 


93 


AN  EXTRAORDINARY  WELCOME 


Amazed  at  this  uncomplimentary  outburst  of  sor- 
row on  our  first  meeting  with  the  feminine  section  of 
whatever  tribe  it  was  we  were  approaching,  we  tried, 
with  consoling  phrases  and  reassuring  gestures,  to  per- 
suade the  boatmen  to  again  take  to  their  work  in  the 
canoes,  if  only  to  carry  us  out  of  earshot  of  this 
pandemonium.  We  might  as  well  not  have  been  there 
for  all  the  attention  they  paid  to  our  entreaties,  and 
the  grief,  instead  of  wearing  itself  out,  only  seemed  to 
gain  in  vigour  as  the  minutes  passed  by.  Suddenly 
the  demonstration  ceased.  Without  a word  of  excuse 
or  of  explanation,  without  even  troubling  to  wipe  the 
tears  from  their  cheeks,  they  seized  their  poles  and 
started  the  canoes  afresh,  with  a demeanour  as  peaceful 
and  unconcerned  as  if  what  they  had  just  been  doing 
was  the  most  natural  and  ordinary  thing  possible.  The 
women  washed  themselves,  removed  the  leaves,  and 
replaced  the  bark  cloth,  and,  once  again  rational  beings, 
entered  two  huts,  the  first  habitations  we  had  seen  since 
leaving  Wakatimi.  It  was  a great  relief  to  find  that 
the  women  were  to  accompany  us  no  farther,  for  one 
dose  of  the  astonishing  form  of  welcome  which  we  had 
just  witnessed  was  quite  enough  for  the  day,  and  as 
long  as  they  were  with  us  there  was  no  knowing  when 
the  spirit  might  move  them  to  repeat  the  experiment.1 

1 The  shedding  of  tears  in  welcome  has  been  reported  among  the  natives 
of  America,  as  also  with  the  Andamanese  and  other  negroid  races. 


94 


CHAPTER  VII 


Parimau — Single  combat — Treatment  of  wives — Towards  the  hills — Forest 
growth — Woodcraft — The  Kapare — Preparing  for  an  attack — Nego- 
tiating — Panic  — Wild  scenery  — Difficulties  with  coolies  — Friendly 
villages — Difficult  canoeing — Rain — Short  rations 

ON  the  seventh  day  after  leaving  Wakatimi  we 
reached  Parimau,  a collection  of  some  twenty-five 
huts,  and  the  most  important  place  on  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  Mimika  River.  The  village  was 
situated  in  a clearing  of  about  an  acre  in  extent,  and, 
as  we  thought  at  the  time,  on  a spot  safe  from  all  pos- 
sible chance  of  inundation.  I say  “ was  situated,”  for 
unfortunately  both  land  and  village  were  swept  out  of 
existence  by  floods  later  on  in  the  year.  On  the  beach 
our  camp  was  pitched  and  a house  erected.  This  was 
only  a temporary  measure,  for,  as  soon  as  a clearing 
had  been  made  on  the  opposite  or  right  bank  of  the 
river,  other  and  more  substantial  huts  were  run  up  by 
the  Gurkhas  well  above  both  the  native  village  and 
the  ordinary  level  of  the  river. 

Whilst  we  remained  here  fresh  parties  of  natives 
arrived  daily  from  the  east  to  inspect  the  new- 
comers. The  women,  very  shy  and  diffident,  were  led 
round  by  the  hand  by  their  Parimau  friends,  who  from  the 
moment  of  our  arrival  had  come  to  look  upon  us  as  their 
own  personal  property.  The  new-comers  brought  their 
own  food  along  with  them,  as  well  as  presents  for  their 
hosts,  so  at  first  were  received  with  open  arms.  There 
was  much  kissing  amongst  the  men,  but  little  notice 

95 


SINGLE  COMBAT 


taken  of  the  women,  who  seemed  quite  content  to 

stand  aside  until  their  lords  and  masters  deigned  to 

© 

notice  them. 

No  empty  huts  being  available,  this  influx  led  to 
much  overcrowding,  with  the  result  that  brawls  and 
fights  were  continually  breaking  out.  and  blood  was 
freely  shed  on  many  occasions.  The  popular  weapon 
was  the  stone  club,  made  out  of  coral,  limestone,  or 
sandstone  rock,  and  with  this  dangerous  instrument  the 
most  violent  blows  were  given  and  received,  though 
every  care  was  taken  to  avoid  striking  the  head.  When 
a single  combat  was  in  progress  a certain  amount  of 
etiquette  was  shown,  each  combatant  in  turn  striking 
his  or  her  opponent  a resounding  blow  across  the  back  ; 
no  flinching  was  allowed,  and  the  fight  continued  till  one 
or  the  other  had  had  enough.  During  the  fight  an 
appalling  din  prevailed,  both  combatants  and  spectators 
venting  their  feelings  in  howls  of  rage  and  veils  of 
abuse.  The  more  peaceably  inclined  would  sometimes 
terminate  these  fights  by  surrounding  the  actors  so 
closely  as  to  put  an  end  to  further  hostilities.  Now 
and  again  a woman  (never  a man)  would  be  felled  to 
the  ground  when  a bad  shot  was  made  and  the  head 
struck  by  accident,  but  when  such  an  event  occurred 
no  one  considered  it  his  or  her  business  to  proffer  aid, 
and  there  the  unfortunate  woman  would  remain  insen- 
sible and  streaming  with  blood  until  she  had  recovered 
sufficiently  to  crawl  to  her  hut. 

Both  up-  and  down-river  natives  treat  their  wives 
with  the  greatest  brutality.  This  consistent  ill-treat- 
ment seemed  to  us  all  the  more  extraordinary,  for, 
apart  from  any  question  of  affection,  one  would  have 
thought  that  it  was  the  husband's  interest  to  protect 
and  care  for  his  breadwinner — in  short,  his  slave,  on 

96 


In  the  Village  of  Parimau 

Visitors  have  just  arrived  bringing  their  bags  of  sago,  dishes  and  hunting  dogs. 


TREATMENT  OF  WIVES 


whom  he  was  dependent  for  every  comfort.  Such  was 
not  the  case.  For  instance,  from  the  camp  at  Waka- 
timi,  Wollaston  on  one  occasion  witnessed  the  attempted 
drowning  of  a woman  who  had  in  some  way  incurred 
the  anger  of  her  husband.  In  full  view  of  all  who 
cared  to  look,  the  young  wife  was  dragged  by  the 
husband  and  his  elder  wife  to  the  water’s  edge  and 
there  thrown  in.  Despite  her  struggles,  a small  fishing- 
net,  bound  to  a circle  of  bamboo,  was  flung  over  her, 
and  upon  the  ends  of  this  the  two  seated  themselves, 
effectively  keeping  the  girl  under  water.  She  would 
certainly  have  been  drowned  had  not  Wollaston 
shouted  across,  and,  seizing  his  rifle,  threatened  to 
shoot,  upon  which  the  two  executioners  unwillingly 
released  their  victim.  The  wretched  creature  dragged 
herself  on  to  the  bank,  and  there  remained  in  a state 
of  collapse  until  she  had  sufficiently  recovered  to  crawl 
back  to  her  happy  home.  Whilst  this  drama  was 
being  enacted  none  of  the  savages  paid  the  slightest 
attention  or  raised  a finger  to  prevent  the  attempted 
murder,  though  it  was  being  carried  out  in  full  view 
of  the  whole  village. 

During  the  intervals  when  the  natives  of  Parimau 
and  their  guests  were  not  engaged  in  brawling,  we  did 
our  best  to  make  them  understand  that  we  were  anxious 
to  enter  the  hills,  of  which,  up  to  the  present,  we  had 
gained  no  information.  As  soon  as  they  had  grasped 
what  was  required,  numerous  volunteers  stepped  forward 
ready  to  show  the  way  and  carry  the  baggage. 

Accompanied  by  two  Gurkhas  and  a dozen  Papuans, 
I set  forth  on  the  26th  January,  following  the  one  and 
only  way  said  to  exist.  The  track  was  in  an  abominable 
condition,  so  badly  defined  and  so  obstructed  with 
cacti  that  the  greater  part  of  the  day  was  spent  in 

97  a 


FOREST  GROWTH 


cutting  a way  through  the  four  miles  of  forest  that  lay 
between  us  and  the  first  large  river  encountered. 

It  is  quite  impossible  for  anyone  who  has  not  visited 
these  parts  of  Xew  Guinea  to  realise  the  density  of  the 
forest  growth.  The  vegetation,  through  which  only 
the  scantiest  glimpses  of  the  sky  can  be  obtained, 
appears  to  form  as  it  were  two  great  horizontal  strata. 
The  first  comprises  the  giant  trees  whose  topmost 
boughs  are  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  or  more  above 
the  ground  : the  other,  the  bushes,  shrubs,  and  trees  of 
lesser  growth,  which  never  attain  a greater  height  than 
thirty  to  forty  feet.  Such  is  the  richness  of  the  soil 
that  not  one  square  foot  remains  untenanted,  and  the 
never-ending  struggle  to  reach  upwards  towards  the 
longed-for  light  goes  on  silently  and  relentlessly. 
Creepers  and  parasites  in  endless  variety  cling  to  every 
stem,  slowly  but  surely  throttling  their  hosts.  From 
tree  to  tree  their  tentacles  stretch  out,  seizing  on  to 
the  first  projecting  branch  and  limb,  and  forming 
such  a close  and  tangled  mass  that  the  dead  and  dying 
giants  of  the  forest  are  prevented  from  falling  to  the 
ground. 

Through  this  boundless  labyrinth  of  tangled  growth 
the  native  is  obliged  to  force  his  wav  when  once  he  has 
left  the  safe  and  familiar  river  banks.  The  experience 
of  countless  centuries  has  taught  him  to  dread  the 
treacherous  paths  and  deceptive  openings  into  which 
many  of  his  ancestors  must  have  strayed  and  perished  ; 
and  now,  when  in  the  forest,  he  never  omits  to  form  a 
trail  by  half  breaking  the  young  shoots  on  either  hand 
as  he  goes  along.  The  stems  thus  treated  do  not  die, 
and  in  their  reversed  position  faintly  mark  the  way  for 
many  years.  This  is  a practice  which  the  white  men 
should  invariably  adopt  when  moving  in  a tropical 

98 


THE  KAPAR^ 

forest  without  knife  or  kukrie,  for  he  can  never  tell 
when  his  life  may  depend  upon  the  distinctness  of  the 
trail  he  leaves  behind  him.  The  various  devices  recom- 
mended in  the  books  of  one’s  childhood,  and  it  may  be 
added  in  learned  books  as  well,  whereby  the  traveller  is 
enabled  to  recover  a lost  trail  or  regain  the  right  direc- 
tion, are  here  of  no  avail.  For  instance,  moss  does  not 
grow  more  on  one  side  of  a tree-trunk  than  on  the 
other ; trees  do  not  lean  away  from  the  prevailing 
wind,  nor  is  the  position  of  the  sun  a guide,  for  it  is 
seldom  visible.  In  fact  the  traveller  has  nothing  to 
rely  upon  but  the  compass  or  a local  guide,  and  even 
the  latter  is  often  at  fault.  Hopeless  indeed  does  the 
outlook  appear  when  the  wanderer,  hedged  in  by  a 
wall  of  scrub  and  creeper  which  limits  his  vision  to  a 
distance  of  ten  or  twelve  yards,  realises  that  he  has 
lost  his  bearings ; when  the  vastness  of  the  forest  seems 
to  press  upon  him,  and  there  is  no  sound  to  be  heard 
but  the  drip,  drip  of  the  water-laden  trees,  and  the 
bubbling  of  the  stinking  bog  under  foot.  His  only 
chance  of  escape  is  to  find  a stream  and  follow  it  down 
till  it  joins  a main  river.  ^ - c 

But  to  return  from  these  cheerful  considerations  to 
our  journey  from  Parimau.  It  was  late  in  the  after- 
noon when  we  debouched  upon  the  stony  bed  of  a 
great  river,  known  to  our  guides  as  the  Kapare.  From 
this  point  a grand  view  of  the  mountains  was  obtained, 
stretching  from  a point  due  north  of  us  till  they  faded 
away  in  the  dull  haze  to  the  west.  The  natives 
insisted  upon  camping  at  once,  for  fishing  grounds, 
and  consequently  food,  were  close  at  hand.  A 
sufficient  supply  of  fish  having  been  obtained,  we 
turned  in  early  to  sleep.  Nothing  could  have  been 
more  peaceful  than  the  quiet,  closely-packed  camp,  the 

99 


PREPARING  FOR  AN  ATTACK 

two  tents  and  the  two  flimsy  shelters  of  the  Papuans 
forming  a small  square. 

It  must  have  been  nearly  an  hour  after  we  had  turned 
into  our  blankets  that  I was  suddenly  awakened  bv  the 
sound  of  men  running,  and  springing  up  was  just  in 
time  to  catch  a fleeting  glimpse  of  the  natives  tumbling 
out  of  their  huts  and  bolting  into  the  forest.  A Gurkha, 
who  had  awakened  at  the  same  time,  instinctively 
rushed  at  and  attempted  to  seize  the  last  two,  but 
the  slippery  body  of  a naked  Papuan  is  not  an  easy 
thing  to  hold,  and  with  a fierce  wrench  of  the  arm  they 
broke  loose  and  vanished  like  the  rest.  Not  a man 
remained. 

Our  first  thought  was  for  our  own  safety. 

If  the  natives  contemplated  an  attack  we  were  in  a 
bad  position  to  meet  it,  and  too  close  to  the  jungle,  so 
picking  up  the  guns  and  blankets,  and  leaving  every- 
thing else  as  it  was,  we  moved  without  loss  of  time  out 
into  the  open  river  bed.  and  there  awaited  the  upshot 
of  this  peculiar  affair.  The  forest  was  as  silent  as  the 
grave. 

For  an  hour  we  remained  on  the  qui  live  and  ready 
for  anv  emergencv,  turning  over  in  our  minds  everv 
incident  of  the  afternoon,  to  find  some  reason  for  this 
desertion,  but  in  vain.  Whither  had  they  vanished  ? 
Were  they  stalking  us,  or  were  they  still  fleeing  ? 

Still  not  a sound  broke  the  silence  of  the  forest. 

The  night  became  chilly  and  the  stones  uncomfort- 
ably hard,  so  eventually  it  was  decided  that  one  man 
should  keep  a look-out  while  the  remainder  slept.  An 
uncomfortable  hour  went  slowly  by,  for  neither  the  posi- 
tion nor  the  occasion  were  conducive  to  sound  slumber. 
Fatigue  at  length  obtained  the  mastery,  and  I passed 
into  the  land  of  dreams ; but  hardly  had  I dosed  oft’ 

100 


NEGOTIATING 

than  a light  touch  on  the  shoulder  by  the  sentry  drew 
my  attention  to  numerous  dark  spots  barely  distinguish- 
able in  the  reeds  along  the  river  banks,  spots  which 
certainly  had  not  been  there  an  hour  before. 

Straining  our  eyes  to  the  utmost  it  was  impossible 
for  several  minutes  to  make  out  what  they  were,  but 
when  one  vanished,  it  was  very  easy  to  guess  that  each 
of  the  other  black  spots  carried  two  eyes,  and  that  our 
savage  friends  were  spying  out  the  land. 

A forward  movement  on  our  part  now  seemed  to 
be  called  for,  so  standing  up  I gave  a loud  hail.  The 
result  was  the  instantaneous  disappearance  of  all  the 
spots.  So  far  so  good ; it  had  had  some  effect,  and  as 
the  result  of  further  calls,  in  five  minutes’  time  a spot 
again  appeared,  to  be  followed  shortly  afterwards  by  a 
larger  patch  denoting  the  rising  of  a body.  Then  came 
an  answering  hail,  and  in  such  an  encouraging  tone 
that  I felt  constrained  to  approach.  The  figure  did 
likewise,  and  so  we  advanced,  first  one  then  the  other, 
both  sides  meanwhile  keeping  up  a flow  of  talk  in  our 
respective  languages.  As  we  drew  near  I recognised 
the  approaching  figure  to  be  that  of  a man  who  had  on 
one  or  two  occasions  gone  out  shooting  with  me,  and 
whom,  in  my  present  state  of  mind,  I promptly  started 
to  abuse.  He  was  quite  ready  to  discuss  matters,  but 
as  neither  of  us  understood  the  other,  and  as  each 
seemed  to  have  some  grievance,  the  only  sensible 
course  to  follow  was  to  forget  the  past  and  again  be 
friends.  Quickly  both  sides  collected  on  the  debating- 
ground  and  tried  to  relieve  their  feelings  in  a babel  of 
talk,  the  Papuans  ending  up  with  the  first  few  bars  of 
the  terrible  wailing  with  which  we  had  been  assailed 
when  coming  up  the  Mimika.  This,  so  close  at  hand, 
and  in  the  dead  of  night,  was  unbearable,  and  had  to 

101 


PANIC 

be  stopped,  much  to  their  disappointment.  Everything 
having  been  satisfactorily  arranged,  we  moved  back  to 
the  deserted  camp  and  there  passed  the  remainder  of 
the  night  in  peace  and  quiet,  the  natives  in  their  huts 
and  we  in  our  tents. 

As  time  went  on  and  we  got  to  know  the  Papuans 
better,  it  was  realised  that  these  sudden  desertions, 
which  sometimes  amount  to  a panic-stricken  rush,  are 
more  probably  due  to  fear  of  some  kind  than  to  hostile 
motives,  or  any  desire  to  place  the  stranger  in  an 
awkward  position.  Desertions  occurred  on  several 
other  occasions,  but  this  was  the  only  time  that  any 
anxiety  was  felt  as  to  the  possibility  of  an  attack  being 
made.  To  this  day  I have  not  been  able  to  find  out 
what  was  in  their  minds  or  what  caused  the  sudden 
flight  to  the  jungle.  Had  it  taken  place  in  the  day- 
time, or  had  they  gone  off  in  a stealthy  manner,  it 
might  have  been  explained,  but  to  do  so  in  the  dead 
of  night,  when  the  camp  is  peacefully  asleep,  can  only 
be  accounted  for  by  a sudden  grip  of  superstitious 
fear. 

Though  little  affected  by  the  occurrences  of  the 
past  night,  the  Papuans  refused  to  continue  the  march 
upstream,  the  next  day  being  spent  in  reconnoitring 
the  country  to  the  north. 

Fifteen  miles  distant  lay  a saddle-backed  mountain 
about  7500  feet  high,  with  almost  precipitous  sides  and 
knife-edged  ridges  running  in  all  directions,  the  whole 
covered  with  the  densest  vegetation.  To  the  west 
stretched  other  wild  and  rugged  hills,  divided  from  the 
first  mountain  by  the  gorge  of  the  Kapare.  Far  up 
the  valley  glimpses  were  obtained  of  an  immense  preci- 
pice running  east  and  west,  a sheer  perpendicular  wall 
of  rock,  bare  of  vegetation  and  black  in  colour. 

102 


DIFFICULTIES  WITH  COOLIES 

As  no  more  information  was  to  be  obtained  by 
waiting  here  under  these  conditions,  I returned  to 
Parimau  and  reported  to  Goodfellow  what  had  been 
found,  and  discussed  with  him  the  chances  of  finding 
a way  into  the  hills  by  this  route.  As  a result  it  was 
decided  to  send  a reconnoitring  party  from  Wakatimi 
up  the  Kapare,  the  mouth  of  which  had  been  passed 
on  our  way  from  the  sea,  with  the  object  of  discovering 
whether  that  river  was  navigable  for  canoes  up  to  the 
point  where  I had  come  out  on  its  banks,  and  whether 
it  offered  many  advantages  over  the  Mimika  as  a 
permanent  line  of  advance  inland. 

Goodfellow  accordingly  returned  to  Wakatimi  on 
9th  February  in  order  to  despatch  this  party  and  to 
explain  to  those  at  the  base  camp  how  matters  stood, 
while  I again  crossed  to  the  Kapard  to  prepare  a path 
towards  the  mountains  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  the 
exploring  party,  should  they  be  able  to  work  a way  up 
the  new  river.  Unfortunately,  on  reaching  Wakatimi, 
he  learnt  that  the  whole  of  the  imported  coolies,  whom 
he  had  engaged  for  a period  of  six  weeks  only,  had,  on 
the  arrival  of  a visiting  ship,  insisted  upon  the  fulfil- 
ment of  the  letter  of  the  law,  and  demanded  to  be 
returned  at  once  to  their  homes.  The  few  remaining 
carriers  who,  owing  to  their  having  been  detained  up 
the  river,  found  themselves  too  late  to  depart  by  the 
steamer,  were  now  the  only  men  left  to  carry  on  the 
work.  By  the  next  relief  ship  Goodfellow  sailed  for 
Amboina,  in  order  to  recruit  a fresh  batch  of  men  from 
the  nearer  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  and  with  him 
went  the  remainer  of  the  men,  not  one  of  whom  could 
be  induced  by  any  amount  of  bribes  to  stay  a day  over 
the  contract  time. 

Whilst  Goodfellow  was  away  on  this  business, 

103 


FRIENDLY  VILLAGERS 

Marshall,  Wollaston,  and  Cramer,  with  a scratch  crew 
of  soldiers,  convicts,  and  Papuans,  started  out  on  their 
exploration  of  the  Kapare.  Within  two  miles  of  the 
junction  with  the  Mimika  the  vegetation  changed  from 
the  dense  jungle  of  mangrove  trees  to  flourishing  sago 
swamps  and  banana  plantations.  The  first  night  was 
spent  at  Obota,  a large  village  of  not  less  than  three 
hundred  inhabitants,  who  were  quite  friendly  and  well- 
disposed  to  the  strangers.  Like  the  villagers  previously 
encountered,  they  were  bent  upon  trade,  and  delighted 
to  find  that  they  had  here  a good  market  for  their 
tobacco  and  bananas,  which  grew  abundantly  in  the 
locality.  In  one  of  the  houses,  amongst  other  treasures, 
an  old  brass  gong  was  displayed,  and  a most  incongruous 
object  it  appeared,  being  the  one  product  of  civilisation 
which  had  as  yet  arrived  at  this  uncivilised  spot. 

The  Obota  was  then  in  flood,  and  so  ignorant  were 
the  soldiers  of  river  work  that  all  attempts  to  make 
further  progress  against  the  strong  current  failed 
ignominiously,  the  canoes  careering  madly  from  bank 
to  bank,  and  finally  coming  to  rest  in  a backwater  at  a 
point  considerably  lower  down-stream  than  where  they 
started.  The  natives,  fearing  that  a disaster  might 
occur,  which  would  have  been  greatly  to  their  dis- 
advantage, quickly  came  to  the  rescue,  and  after  a 
good  deal  of  discussion  consented  to  accompany  the 
party  if  two  other  canoes  were  engaged  and  the  loads 
in  the  original  ones  reduced.  These  men  proved  them- 
selves excellent  workers,  and  remained  throughout  the 
journey,  becoming  great  friends  with  our  men.  Having 
circumvented  the  rapids  just  above  Obota,  by  following 
a winding  jungle  creek  which  joined  the  main  river 
again  three  hundred  yards  farther  up,  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  hug  the  banks  closely  in  order  to  avoid  the  main 

104 


RAIN 

force  of  the  current.  Two  miles  beyond  this  point  the 
Kapare  began  to  widen,  forming  a perfect  river  for 
navigation,  and  admirably  suited  for  a launch.  The 
river  here  bifurcated,  the  larger  branch  being  known 
at  its  mouth  as  the  Periepia.  As  further  progress  was 
made  the  Kapare,  flowing  between  low  and  swampy 
banks  infested  with  mosquitoes,  continued  to  widen 
until  it  was  the  general  opinion  that  no  difficulty 
would  be  experienced  in  penetrating  direct  into  the 
mountains.  On  the  sixth  day  out,  however,  these  hopes 
were  shattered,  any  further  advance  upstream  being 
absolutely  barred  by  a combination  of  shoals  and  rapids. 
They  were  then  only  five  miles  from  the  point  where  I 
was  awaiting  them,  but  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to 
abandon  this  line  of  advance  and  to  return  dejected  to 
Wakatimi. 

During  the  time  this  journey  was  in  progress 
I,  together  with  three  Gurkhas,  had  moved  another 
three  miles  up  the  Kapare,  a fishing  party  of  natives 
having  been  pressed  into  the  work  of  carrying  the 
loads,  though  not  accomplished  without  much  bribery 
and  endless  coaxing.  Beyond  this  point  they  refused 
to  move  another  step,  so  a rough  but  substantial 
hut  was  built  ready  to  take  any  stores  which  might 
arrive  in  the  near  future,  four  miles  of  road  cleared,  and 
a certain  amount  of  survey  work  completed.  This  was 
much  hindered  by  the  daily  downfall  of  rain,  which  not 
only  flooded  the  camping  ground  but  rendered  the 
river  and  brooks  unfordable  for  hours  at  a time. 

By  converting  the  empty  map  tin  into  a rain  guage 
I was  enabled  to  calculate  fairly  accurately  the  average 
rainfall  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  heaviest  registered 
was  inches,  the  lightest  1|-  inches,  and  the  average 
for  two  weeks  showed  2 ^ inches  per  day ; this,  be  it 

105 


SHORT  RATIONS 

remembered,  was  one  of  the  dry  seasons  of  the  year ! 
Day  after  day  we  pegged  away  at  the  work,  always 
hoping  that  the  next  morning  we  should  hear  the  wel- 
come sound  of  the  approach  either  of  the  party  moving 
up  the  Ivapare,  or  of  another  relief  expedition  from 
Parimau,  until  at  length  the  stores  came  to  an  end. 
A man  despatched  to  Parimau,  where  Shortridge  was 
still  encamped,  returned  with  the  information  that 
no  boat  or  supplies  had  arrived  from  Wakatimi,  and 
that  Shortridge  himself  was  in  an  equally  serious 
plight  from  want  of  food.  Following  close  behind 
came  Shortridge  himself  carrying  his  last  three  days’ 
rations,  and  which  we  eked  out  as  long  as  possible, 
as  it  is  more  economical  to  feed  two  men  together 
than  when  separated. 

As  there  was  nothing  to  gain  by  returning  to 
Parimau,  even  had  we  wished  to  do  so,  in  its  present 
depleted  condition,  and  as  no  carriers  were  available, 
we  were  forced  to  subsist  entirely  upon  what  the  forest 
could  provide,  and  taking  it  all  together  a poorer 
country  I have  never  yet  found.  Of  edible  vegetable 
matter  there  was  none,  and  of  flesh  we  could  obtain 
nothing  but  the  hornbill.  These  birds  consist  of  head 
and  neck,  and  the  smallest  and  toughest  of  bodies 
imaginable,  but  we  blessed  their  existence  all  the  same. 
Crown  pigeons,  which  would  have  provided  a good 
square  meal,  must  have  known  that  we  were  on  the 
warpath,  for  only  a couple  were  to  be  seen,  and  these 
would  certainly  have  been  bagged  had  not  the  excite- 
ment of  the  stalk  and  the  knowledge  that  our  supper 
depended  upon  a successful  shot  caused  the  premature 
discharge  of  the  gun.  Nevertheless,  though  food  was 
scarce  and  life  not  altogether  a bed  of  roses,  there  was 
plenty  of  hard  work,  which  made  time  pass  quickly 

106 


SHORT  RATIONS 

and  enabled  us  to  forget  the  material  privations  of  our 
situation.  During  this  hungry  period  another  hunting 
party  of  Papuans  arrived  upon  the  scene,  and  every 
blandishment  was  employed  to  persuade  them  to  assist 
in  moving  the  camp  to  fresh  pastures  where  animal 
life  was  more  plentiful.  It  was  during  one  of  these 
attempts  at  an  advance  that  a most  valuable  discovery 
was  made. 


107 


CHAPTER  VIII 


Unpleasant  work — Chasing  pygmies — Captured  pygmies — Pygmy  equip- 
ment— Primitive  methods — Pygmy  history — Penetrating  the  mountains 
- — Stalking  human  game — Brave  pygmies — Land  of  the  pygmies — 
Attempts  to  penetrate  the  country — The  home  of  the  pygmies — Fresh 
line  of  advance 

IN  spite  of  all  our  efforts  nothing  would  induce  the 
Papuans  to  transport  the  camp  a few  miles  further 
up-stream,  and  matters  reached  such  an  impasse  that  I 
was  finally  forced  to  adopt  the  role  of  carrier  myself, 
hoping  by  this  means  that  they  might  be  shamed  into 
shouldering  the  loads.  It  was  not  an  edifying  sight, 
the  white  man  carrying  the  burden  and  the  savages 
following  in  a sullen  line  behind,  and  the  physical 
effort  of  bearing  a heavy  load  through  the  steaming 
jungle  made  the  experiment  a distinctly  unpleasant 
one ; it  had  the  effect,  however,  of  bringing  the  whole 
party  along,  for  they  were  consumed  with  curiosity  as 
to  where  I would  go  and  what  I would  do. 

In  this  uncomfortable  manner  we  were  slowly 
making  our  way  up  the  river  bed  when,  with  a guttural 
cry  of  “Wah,”  the  savage  immediately  following  me 
dashed  past  at  full  speed.  The  yell  acted  like  magic. 
The  sulky  line  was  in  a moment  galvanised  into  life, 
and  the  men  who  had  been  so  tired  that  it  seemed  to 
be  an  effort  to  place  one  foot  before  the  other,  taking 
up  the  cry,  raced  off  in  pursuit  over  the  stones  and 
into  the  jungle.  As  this  new  move  at  any  rate 
promised  excitement  and  the  pleasures  of  the  chase,  I 

108 


CHASING  PYGMIES 


dropped  my  load,  and  with  visions  of  pork  before  my 
eyes  girded  up  my  loins  and  pounded  along  in  rear. 
Partly  influenced  by  the  fact  that  the  savages  were 
rapidly  leaving  me  behind,  I cast  around  in  an  attempt 
to  find  the  animal’s  spoor  before  entering  the  jungle. 
What  was  my  surprise  to  discover  men’s  footprints 
instead  of  the  marks  of  pig  as  I had  expected,  and  to 
see  the  sand  torn  up  where  they  had  evidently  turned 
and  bolted  for  cover.  This  being  a form  of  sport  in 
which  I did  not  desire  to  take  part,  I sat  down  to 
await  events  and  to  listen  to  the  sounds  of  the  chase  as 
it  passed  away  into  the  forest. 

Who  could  the  enemy  be,  and  why  this  sudden 
show  of  hostility?  Could  it  be  some  men  of  a tribe 
with  whom  our  friendly  natives  had  been  at  war,  or 
possibly  some  delinquent  or  runaway  of  their  own 
people  ? I was  not  to  be  left  long  in  doubt.  Before 
many  minutes  had  passed  the  excited  voices  of  the  men 
could  be  heard  as  they  drew  near,  and  then  from  the 
forest  there  emerged  a confused  mass  of  savages,  in  the 
centre  of  which,  held  firmly  by  the  arms  and  driven 
forward  by  sundry  proddings  behind,  were  two  small 
naked  men  differing  in  appearance  from  any  we  had 
hitherto  seen.  They  were  taking  their  capture  in  any- 
thing but  a kindly  spirit,  and  despite  the  fact  that  they 
were  outnumbered  by  five  to  one,  put  up  sufficient 
fight  to  engage  the  united  attentions  of  their  big  framed 
brethren. 

When  the  party  reached  the  place  where  I stood 
the  captives  were  released,  but  as  they  had  by  then 
arrived  at  the  stage  when  fear  and  exhaustion  renders 
vigorous  action  an  impossibility,  they  could  do  no 
more  than  maintain  their  position  on  the  tree-trunk 
upon  which  they  were  placed  and  with  their  eyes  glued 

109 


PYGMY  EQUIPMENT 

to  the  ground.  From  their  point  of  view  there  was 
good  reason  to  fear  the  worst.  AVere  they  not  in  the 
hands  of  their  enemies,  and  in  the  presence  of  a man  of 
another  pale-faced  race  of  whose  existence  they  had  up 
to  now  been  in  complete  ignorance  ? In  addition  to 
this,  had  they  not  been  deprived  of  their  bows  and 
arrows,  their  grass  helmets  and  their  bags  of  precious 
odds  and  ends,  all  of  which  were  now  being  handed 
round  before  their  eyes  and  distributed  piece  by  piece  ? 
As  a preliminary  to  any  friendly  advances  I insisted 
first  of  all  upon  the  stolen  articles,  even  down  to  the 
bows  and  arrows,  being  collected  and  returned  to  their 
rightful  owners,  much  to  the  disgust  of  the  captors,  who 
evidently  looked  upon  the  loot  as  their  just  reward. 
Reassured  by  this  unexpected  treatment  the  prisoners 
quickly  gained  their  wits,  and  went  so  far  as  to  allow  a 
faint  smile  to  spread  across  their  features  when  a few 
bright-coloured  beads  were  placed  in  their  grimy  paws. 
The  capture  was  of  such  absorbing  interest  that  we 
decided  to  postpone  any  further  advance  till  the  next 
day,  and  returning  to  the  old  camp  were  enabled  to 
examine  our  prisoners  more  closely. 

They  were  of  good  proportions,  strong  and  wiry, 
without  any  signs  of  deformity  or  dwarfishness,  and  in 
colour  a dark  chocolate.  AVhen  walking  with  the 
finely-developed  men  of  the  Parimau  tribe,  their  small 
size  was  very  noticeable,  the  former  averaging  about 
five  feet  six  to  seven  inches,  whilst  the  new-comers,  as 
we  were  to  find  in  camp,  barely  reached  four  feet  seven 
inches  in  height.  They  proved  to  be  members  of  a 
mountain  tribe  known  by  the  name  of  Tapiro,  living 
on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains  where,  we  were 
informed,  their  villages  and  plantations  lay.  Hearing 
of  our  arrival,  or  perhaps  having  seen  our  tents  from 

110 


PRIMITIVE  METHODS 

above,  they  had  come  to  spy  out  the  land  and  had  been 
captured  in  the  attempt.  To  make  matters  worse,  they 
had  been  caught  trespassing  in  a district  into  which 
they  were  not  permitted  to  enter.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a grass  helmet  with  upright  rims,  and  a pro- 
jection at  the  crown  into  which  a bird  of  paradise 
plume  could  be  inserted.  Over  one  shoulder  was 
suspended  a string  bag  containing  a collection  of  fishing- 
tackle  and  fire-sticks ; these,  together  with  a hollow 
bright  yellow  gourd  some  fifteen  inches  long,  worn  as 
pubic  clothing  with  the  narrow  and  closed  end  point- 
ing upwards,  and  held  in  position  by  a string  fastened 
round  the  waist,  formed  their  complete  outfit. 

If  we  were  to  penetrate  into  the  hills  by  the  route 
we  were  following,  it  was  most  necessary  to  be  on  the 
best  terms  with  this  tribe.  In  order,  therefore,  that 
they  might  carry  a good  report  to  their  village  as  to 
how  they  had  been  treated,  the  prisoners  were  given 
a few  more  odds  and  ends  and  told  that  they  were  free 
to  depart.  The  older  man  of  the  two  left  hurriedly, 
and  in  a few  moments  was  swallowed  up  by  the  jungle, 
but  the  younger  stayed  on  and  remained  with  us  for  a 
couple  of  days — this  apparently  by  order  of  the  plains- 
men, for  he  worked  and  carried  wood  for  them  during 
his  stay.  Then  he  likewise  vanished,  and  for  some 
months  was  seen  no  more. 

In  the  latter  stages  of  the  expedition,  when  we  got 
to  know  him  better,  this  man  proved  to  be  the  most 
intelligent  member  of  his  tribe,  and  acted  as  our 
regular  go-between  during  the  visits  we  subsequently 
made  to  the  mountain  home  of  the  Tapiros. 

That  evening  he  showed  us  how  to  make  fire.  Two 
mplements  were  required — a stick  of  hard  wood  and  a 
ength  of  split  rattan.  A cleft  was  made  in  the  stick, 

111 


PYGMY  HISTORY 


into  which  a stone  was  forced  so  as  to  keep  the  sides 
apart.  Then,  having  placed  one  end  of  the  stick 
beneath  his  foot  and  the  other  over  a bunch  of  dried 
leaves,  he  passed  the  rattan  rope  beneath  the  cleft 
stick,  and  grasping  it  with  his  hands,  worked  it  rapidly 
backwards  and  forwards  till  the  friction,  engendered  by 
the  rattan  against  the  sharp  edge  of  the  stick,  produced 
ignition.  The  smouldering  leaves  were  then  blown 
into  a flame.  Interested  by  this  somewhat  deliberate 
process  of  making  fire,  I thought  he  would  be  delighted 
with  the  simplicity  of  the  common  match.  The  effect 
was  disappointing  as,  after  one  gasp  of  surprise  and  a 
grunt  of  disapproval,  he  not  only  refused  to  accept  the 
box  as  a present,  but  walked  hurriedly  away  when  the 
experiment  was  about  to  be  repeated. 

Owing  to  our  very  slight  knowledge  of  the  language 
of  the  plainsmen  at  that  time  it  was  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  obtain  any  information  as  to  the  numbers  and 
habits  of  these  small  men  of  the  Tapiro  tribe.  I per- 
force had  to  speak  in  English  and  in  the  language  of 
signs.  The  plainsmen  tried  to  interpret,  but  every 
time  that  I failed  to  grasp  the  meaning  they  resorted 
to  the  usual  native  expedient  of  shouting  the  same 
words  in  a louder  tone  ; and  as  the  whole  party  talked 
at  the  same  time,  the  cross-examination,  though  inte- 
resting, was  not  conducive  to  obtaining  the  information 
required. 

I was  soon  to  obtain  a further  insight  into  the  fife 
history  of  these  small  men,  fully  confirming  my  view 
that  a hitherto  unknown  race  of  pygmies  had  been  dis- 
covered— men  who  for  countless  ages  had  lived  and 
died  in  the  midst  of  the  densest  forest  and  in  the  fast- 
nesses of  the  mountains.  My  impression  at  the  time 
was  that  they  were  probably  the  descendants  of  scat- 

112 


Pygmies  Making  Fire 

i.  By  friction  causing  the  wood  to  smoulder. 

2 and  3.  Blowing  the  smouldering  embers  into  a flame 


PYGMY  HISTORY 


tered  families  of  the  indigenous  tribes  driven  into  those 
inhospitable  regions  many  centuries  ago  by  more  power- 
ful or  invading  races  who  had  settled  on  the  coast. 
Time  and  hardship  had  left  their  mark  on  the  weaker 
race.  Generation  had  succeeded  generation  subsisting 
on  the  scanty  supplies  of  food  which  were  only  to  be 
obtained  by  never-ending  labour,  with  the  result  that 
physically  they  had  much  diminished  in  size,  though 
still  remaining  wiry  and  agile.  The  chase  was  the  very 
essence  of  their  being,  and  with  it  they  had  acquired 
the  stealthy  movement  and  ever  watchful  glances  of 
the  hunter.  The  fact  that  they  seldom  see  the  sun 
owing  to  their  homes  being  in  the  dense  hillside  forest, 
and  to  there  being  no  broad  rivers  in  the  country,  on 
the  banks  of  which  they  can  bask  and  absorb  the  solar 
warmth,  may  account  for  the  fact  that  they  are  slightly 
fairer  in  colour  than  the  plainsmen.  It  was  thus  that 
I accounted  for  the  existence  of  this  hitherto  unknown 
race  of  diminutive  men,  but  although  these  assumptions 
may  appear  reasonable  enough  to  the  lay  mind,  they 
are  not  generally  accepted  by  scientists,  and  I must 
leave  it  to  those  more  versed  in  anthropology  than 
myself  to  account  for  their  origin  and  peculiar  physical 
characteristics.1 

On  the  day  after  our  meeting  with  the  Tapiros  the 
Papuans  abandoned  their  stubborn  mood  and  consented 
to  transport  the  camp  to  a spot  three  miles  up-stream ; 
from  this  point  a few  more  miles  of  the  river  were  ex- 
plored. It  was  on  the  third  day  that  the  first  determined 
attempt  was  made  to  penetrate  into  the  mountains. 

Long  before  there  was  any  sign  of  light  in  the  east 
we  were  astir  and  ready  to  set  out,  but,  early  as  it  was, 
our  movements  did  not  escape  the  ever-watchful  eyes 

1 See  Chapter  XIX. 

113 


H 


PENETRATING  THE  MOUNTAINS 

of  the  natives  camping  close  at  hand.  They  were  soon 
clustering  round,  wanting  to  know  where  we  were  bound 
for  and  what  we  were  going  to  seek,  and  when  they 
understood  that  we  intended  to  enter  the  hills,  expressed 
their  intention  of  joining  the  party.  To  this  we  agreed, 
and  a start  was  made.  As  the  water  was  low  a onod 

c5 

rate  of  speed  was  maintained  along  the  river  bed,  until 
we  were  obliged  to  enter  the  forest  by  a path  lying 
some  hundred  yards  back  from  the  Ivapare,  and  entirely 
invisible  to  an}'  eyes  but  those  of  a native.  After  fol- 
lowing the  track  for  about  a mile  we  again  struck  the 
river  bank.  In  this  region  of  the  foothills  the  waters 
of  the  Ivapare  were  now  tumbling  along  in  surging 
masses  of  foam. 

It  was  at  this  point  that  I happened  casually  to 
glance  down-stream,  and  noticed  the  figures  of  two 
men  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  away  under  the 
opposite  bank,  with  their  backs  towards  us.  Very 
naturally  I pointed  them  out  to  the  rest  of  the  party. 
Instinctively  the  men  with  me  halted  and  sank  to 
earth,  and,  in  a moment,  had  concocted  their  plan  of 
action ; the  execution  was  one  of  the  sharpest  bits  of 
patrol  work  I have  ever  witnessed.  In  less  time  than 
it  takes  to  tell,  six  of  them  vanished  like  ghosts  along 
the  path  by  which  we  had  just  come,  whilst  the 
remainder  slipped  noiselessly  into  the  water,  and, 
spreading  out,  swam  down  stream  at  racing  speed  over 
the  tumbling  rapids.  Fast  as  they  approached  their 
quarry,  they  were  no  faster  than  those  who  were 
moving  through  the  forest,  and,  little  as  I desired 
forcible  methods  of  capture,  it  was  impossible  not  to 
admire  the  sight  of  savage  stalking  savage.  Thirty 
yards  now  divided  the  hunters  from  their  quarry ; the 
roar  of  the  waters  drowned  every  sound.  Suddenly 

114 


BRAVE  PYGMIES 

the  jungle  party  broke  out  of  the  forest  and  dashed 
headlong  into  the  river.  The  pursued,  now  for  the 
first  time  aware  of  their  danger,  made  a wild  rush  for 
the  opposite  bank,  but  it  was  too  late.  The  river  party 
was  upon  them  in  a moment.  So  complete  was  the 
surprise  that  an  appeal  to  bows  and  arrows  was  out  of 
the  question,  but  in  spite  of  this  they  put  up  with  their 
fists  one  of  the  prettiest  fights  imaginable.  Standing 
breast  high  in  the  torrent,  they  struggled  manfully  to 
escape,  and,  despite  the  fact  that  they  were  out- 
numbered by  six  to  one,  held  their  own  for  a consider- 
able time.  As  they  were  being  badly  buffeted,  I 
hurried  to  a point  on  the  bank  opposite  and,  holding 
up  both  hands,  shouted  and  beckoned  for  them  to  come 
to  me.  These  peaceful  overtures  had  no  effect,  and 
they  continued  their  struggles ; fight  as  they  would, 
however,  weight  told  at  last,  and  they  were  dragged 
before  me  breathless  from  their  exertions,  and  in  a state 
of  complete  nudity,  their  gourds  having  been  pulled 
off,  their  bags  removed,  and  their  bows  and  arrows 
wrenched  away. 

They  were  both  bearded,  and  in  age  might  have 
been  anything  between  twenty  and  twenty-five,  as 
well-proportioned  and  as  muscular  as  those  who  had 
been  captured  a few  days  previously.  Despite  their 
protests,  I measured  them  then  and  there  as  well  as 
was  possible,  and  found  them  to  be  four  feet  five  inches 
md  four  feet  six  inches  respectively.  Like  the  others, 
they  were  too  frightened  to  speak  or  make  any  other 
sound  than  a quick  indrawing  of  the  breath — a kind  of 
liss,  this  being  their  only  reply  to  the  numerous  ques- 
;ions  hurled  at  them  by  the  captors.  Their  belongings 
vere  dealt  with  in  the  same  way  as  in  the  case  of  the 
:arlier  prisoners,  everything  being  collected  and 

115 


LAND  OF  THE  PYGMIES 

returned  to  them.  They  were  then  offered  the  “ pipe 
of  peace  ” in  the  form  of  a cigarette,  but  though  they 
sat  down  and  smoked  their  own  tobacco  they  were  far 
too  suspicious  to  have  anything  to  do  with  mine.  A 
few  blue  beads,  however,  worked  wonders,  their  eyes 
literally  glistening  at  the  sight.  The  discussion  which 
followed  was  to  me  uninteresting,  as  only  one  of  the 
little  men  could  make  himself  understood  to  the  plains- 
men, and  I,  for  my  part,  could  understand  neither  one 
side  nor  the  other.  Precious  time  was  being  wasted 
over  this  conversation,  so  they  were  told  to  rejoin  the 
party  and  come  with  us  to  the  mountains. 

A mile  farther  on  we  struck  a beautiful  crystal 
stream  running  from  the  east,  which,  as  we  afterwards 
learnt,  formed  the  boundary  line  between  the  land  of 
the  pygmies  and  that  of  the  plainsmen.  Beyond  this 
point  the  men  refused  to  go,  or  even  to  show  us  the 
path,  and  the  two  Gurkhas  and  I were  compelled  to 
proceed  alone.  Following  some  marks  on  the  rocks, 
before  long  we  struck  a small  jungle  path,  so  narrow 
and  heavily  overgrown  that  though,  perhaps,  suitable 
for  a pygmy,  it  was  a matter  of  difficulty  for  the  ordi- 
nary-sized man,  such  as  a large-limbed  plainsman,  to 
pass  along  with  any  speed.  For  an  hour  and  a half  we 
moved  steadily  forward,  the  path  all  the  while  rising 
rapidly,  until,  at  last,  we  entered  such  a labyrinth  of 
ravines  and  nullahs  that  further  progress  became  im- 
possible. A deathlike  stillness  reigned  everywhere — 
not  even  a bird  or  a reptile  was  to  be  seen.  Few  hours 
of  daylight  remained,  and  as  the  trail  had  entirely  dis- 
appeared, and  we  had  no  knowledge  of  the  position  or 
of  what  lay  ahead,  the  quest  was  abandoned,  and  we 
retraced  our  steps.  At  the  crystal  stream  all  was  silent 
and  deserted — the  men,  big  and  little,  had  vanished, 

116 


Pygmies  of  the  Tapiro  Tribe 

1.  Wearing  the  split  mandible  of  the  hornbill  to  produce  a fierce  expression. 

2.  One  of  the  oldest  men  of  the  tribe  and  a grea  obstructionist. 

3.  The  keenest  trader.  Bone  ornaments  through  the  septum  of  the  nose. 

4.  One  of  the  crowd. 


PENETRATING  THE  COUNTRY 

tired,  1 suppose,  of  awaiting  our  return.  And  so 
ended  our  first  attempt  to  track  the  pygmies  to  their 
village. 

On  the  journey  back  to  camp  a further  discovery 
was  made,  for,  whilst  examining  with  my  glasses  the 
ground  over  which  we  had  advanced,  I was  able  to  see 
distinctly  the  edge  of  a forest  clearing  far  up  the  moun- 
tain side.  It  had  the  appearance  of  being  cultivated, 
and  was,  therefore,  likely  to  be  in  the  near  vicinity  of 
the  pygmies’  mountain  home,  and  the  source  from 
whence  they  obtained  their  daily  sustenance.  This 
further  discovery  made  us  all  the  more  determined  to 
penetrate  into  the  mountainous  country,  and  to  examine 
in  greater  detail  the  weird  and  interesting  race  which 
had  been  so  unexpectedly  brought  to  light. 

Two  days  later  another  attempt  to  reach  the  clear- 
ing led  to  no  better  results.  After  hours  of  clambering 
over  rough  ground  and  through  dense  undergrowth, 
our  spirits  every  now  and  again  buoyed  up  by  a faint 
trail  of  a moss-covered  rock  which  had  apparently  been 
worn  by  the  foot  of  man,  we  again  arrived  in  a trackless 
labyrinth  of  deep  ravines.  The  quest  seemed  hopeless, 
and  we  returned  dispirited  to  camp.  Wollaston,  how- 
ever, now  arrived  on  the  scene,  bringing  fresh  stores, 
and  together  we  thought  out  new  schemes  for  an 
advance. 

A third  attack  was  made  on  what  I had  almost 
begun  to  believe  was  the  mythical  home  of  the  pygmies, 
and  this  too  ended  in  failure.  Had  it  not  been  for 
distinct  signs  of  felled  trees  upon  the  clearing  we 
should  have  been  tempted  to  give  up  the  quest  as 
hopeless.  We  determined,  however,  not  to  be  beaten, 
and  at  last  perseverance  was  rewarded. 

The  next  day  a fresh  start  was  made,  but  after 

117 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  PYGMIES 

climbing  for  six  hours  without  a break,  the  last  part 
of  the  way  being  along  a faintly-marked  trail,  a con- 
sultation was  held  and  it  was  decided  to  return  to 
camp.  We  had  followed  similar  trails  on  other  occa- 
sions without  any  result,  and  had  now  lost  confidence 
in  them.  However,  a Gurkha,  Pulman  by  name, 
was  most  adverse  to  going  back,  declaring  confidently 
that  within  an  hour  we  were  bound  to  find  the 
long-sought-for  goal.  His  persuasive  appeals  deter- 
mined us  to  persevere,  for  we  all  felt  that  another 
day's  tramp  was  no  more  likely  to  bring  us  nearer 
our  quest  than  we  were  at  that  present  moment. 
Scarcely  had  another  furlong  been  covered  when,  to 
our  surprise  and  delight,  the  forest  grew  thinner, 
and  we  found  ourselves  on  the  edge  of  the  clearing 
which  we  had  so  long  desired  to  reach ; and  there, 
peering  at  us  from  underneath  a leafy  shelter,  was 
one  of  the  same  men  whom  we  had  captured  a week 
before. 

He  might  have  been  a statue  for  all  the  welcome 
he  vouchsafed  us,  but  that  there  was  life  in  his  body 
was  evident  by  the  penetrating  yodelling  which  burst 
from  his  lungs — doubtless  a signal  to  bring  the  other 
tribesmen  to  his  assistance.  Hurrying  forward,  we 
were  able  to  take  up  a good  position  on  the  cultivated 
ground  before  reinforcements  began  to  arrive.  Up 
they  came,  one  after  another,  till  eight  little  men  were 
collected  in  a bunch,  all  much  excited  and  panting 
from  their  hurried  advance.  They  apparently  were  of 
opinion  that  still  more  help  was  required,  or  it  may 
have  been  to  warn  their  female  relatives,  but  each 
as  he  arrived  joined  in  the  warning  cry.  No  other 
pygmies  put  in  an  appearance,  so,  though  rather  dis- 
appointed at  not  seeing  a greater  number  of  them,  we 

118 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  PYGMIES 


had  to  be  content  with  examining  the  few  who  were 
present. 

They  were  truculent,  unsociable  souls,  retreating 
on  any  attempt  to  draw  near,  and  holding  their  bows 
and  arrows  ready  for  instant  use.  Though  varying 
somewhat  in  size  and  build,  on  account  of  the  simi- 
larity of  their  get-up  they  bore  an  extraordinary  resem- 
blance to  one  another.  As  we  were  afterwards  to  visit 
their  habitations  when  many  were  collected  together, 
I will  defer  a description  of  their  peculiar  costume 
till  then.  Conversation  was  at  a discount,  for  at  this 
date  our  stock  of  the  plainsmen’s  language  was  limited, 
and  what  few  words  we  knew  failed  to  convey  any 
meaning  to  the  minds  of  our  hosts.  We  had  recourse 
to  the  primitive  plan  of  barter  as  a means  of  quieting 
their  suspicions,  and  were  so  far  successful  that  several 
arrows  were  exchanged  for  beads,  an  article  of  com- 
merce they  were  quite  unable  to  resist.  Even  this 
restricted  amount  of  trade  was  only  carried  through 
with  the  aid  of  our  former  captive  and  at  arm’s  length 
— a very  unsatisfactory  way  of  doing  business. 

The  clearing  in  which  we  stood  could  have  been 
little  less  than  120  acres  in  extent,  although  at  this 
first  visit  only  a limited  portion  was  visible  from  where 
we  were.  It  was  closely  cultivated,  with  a mixed 
crop  of  taro  and  sweet  potato,  but  much  broken  by 
fallen  trees.  No  huts,  with  the  exception  of  one  leafy 
shelter,  were  to  be  seen,  nor  were  there  any  signs  of 
habitation  or  smoke  to  show  where  the  remainder 
of  the  tribe  had  their  dwelling-places,  but  that  a 
numerous  colony  existed  close  by  was  evident  from 
the  extent  of  the  cultivated  land,  which  could  pro- 
duce enough  to  feed  one  hundred  or  more  people  all 
the  year  round.  Mighty  tree-trunks  lay  scattered 

119 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  PYGMIES 

over  the  slope,  some  few  showing  signs  of  having 
been  felled  by  fire.  In  the  majority  of  cases  a close 
examination  of  the  roots  showed  that  some  small 
instrument  had  been  used  in  the  felling.  Inquiries 
proved  such  to  be  the  case,  and  the  identical  weapon 
which  had  been  employed  was  produced,  namely  an 
extremely  small  axe,  the  head  three  inches  in  length 
and  1|  inches  in  width,  made  of  the  softest  iron — it 
was  possibly  a piece  of  old  hoop-iron.  We  were  not 
allowed  to  touch  this  precious  article — it  was  too 
highly  prized.  This  was  not  to  be  wondered  at  when 
its  probable  history  is  considered,  with  what  trouble 
it  had  been  obtained,  the  great  distance  over  which 
it  had  been  brought  (for  it  must  have  come  from  the 
coast),  and  the  high  price  which  doubtless  had  been 
paid  for  it.  With  this  instrument,  a few  stone  axes, 
and  by  the  aid  of  fire,  a great  section  of  the 
densest  forest  has  been  cleared  of  timber,  and  when 
it  is  remembered  that  burning  a tree  down  is  an 
almost  impossible  operation  in  such  a streaming  wet 
country,  it  is  evident  that  the  work  must  have  taken 
years  to  accomplish. 

Some  plane-table  work  was  carried  out  while  the 
bartering  was  in  progress,  though  in  this  we  were 
continually  inconvenienced  by  the  exclamations  and 
gestures  of  our  inhospitable  hosts,  whose  one  desire 
was  to  see  the  last  of  us.  It  was  evident  that  the 
path  by  which  we  had  come  was  not  the  usual  means 
of  access  to  the  plains,  and  we  now  endeavoured  to 
persuade  our  small  friends  to  disclose  the  right  track, 
not  only  in  order  to  save  a repetition  of  the  wearisome 
journey  back  to  camp,  but  because  we  might  wish  to 
follow  it  at  some  future  time.  Though  understanding 
quite  well  what  was  required,  they  flatly  refused  to 

120 


FRESH  LINE  OF  ADVANCE 


point  out  the  regular  road,  and  despite  the  tempting 
offer  of  a piece  of  red  cloth,  not  one  of  them  would 
render  any  assistance  whatever. 

Our  efforts  at  persuasion  having  failed,  we  were  at 
length  obliged  to  retire  by  the  same  way  as  we  had 
come,  followed,  so  long  as  we  remained  in  sight,  by  the 
scowls  of  the  excited  and  jabbering  pygmies. 

Though  our  curiosity  as  to  the  clearing  was  partly 
satisfied,  the  stubbornness  and  secrecy  of  the  small 
men  made  us  all  the  more  determined  to  find  out 
where  their  habitations  were,  how  they  lived,  and  what 
were  their  customs. 

For  the  present  honours  were  evenly  divided,  and 
the  claims  of  other  work  were  of  too  pressing  a nature 
to  allow  of  a prolonged  stay  in  this  district. 

The  Kapare  having  proved  unsuitable  as  a line  of 
advance  to  the  snow-clad  mountains,  it  was  necessary 
to  strike  out  in  an  entirely  new  direction.  The  store- 
house and  the  prepared  road  were  abandoned.  Wol- 
laston returned  to  Wakatimi,  and  Marshall  came  up  to 
join  me  at  Parimau  ; consequently  our  efforts  to  study 
this  interesting  race  more  closely  had  to  be  postponed 
for  several  months  to  come. 


121 


CHAPTER  IX 


Parimau — A promising  farmyard — Native  dogs — Pet  animals — A casso- 
wary— Up  the  Mimika — Arduous  travelling — Capsised — The  language 
— “ Oewera-mina  ” — Birth,  marriage,  death — Disease — Burial — Medi- 
cine— A brisk  market  in  skulls — Religion — Courage  of  the  natives — 
Useful  electric  torch 


ITTLE  more  could  be  done  in  the  way  of  explora- 


tion until  the  arrival  of  Goodfellow  with  the 
new  batch  of  coolies.  Our  time,  however,  was  fully 
occupied  with  the  work  of  constructing  the  houses  of 
both  the  Dutch  and  British  sections,  which  was  carried 
on  energetically,  until  at  length  living  and  store  rooms 
sufficient  to  shelter  the  whole  force  extended  for 
a distance  of  two  hundred  yards  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  while  a considerable  area  of  the  forest  was 
cleared  for  hygienic  reasons,  and  for  the  cultivation  of 
Indian  corn,  papaya,  bread-fruit  and  banana  trees, 
beans,  pumpkins,  and  other  vegetables.  Such  was  the 
richness  of  the  soil  that,  now  that  the  sun’s  rays  were 
able  to  reach  the  ground,  the  imported  plants  flourished 
exceedingly — the  scarlet  runners  and  pumpkins  in 
particular  spreading  over  every  roof  and  railing. 

Paths  were  made,  landing  platforms  and  ladders 
erected,  and  an  example,  which  they  were  not  slow’  to 
follow,  set  to  the  villagers  opposite  as  to  how  human 
habitations  and  their  surroundings  should  be  laid  out. 

Parimau  on  our  first  arrival  had  consisted  of  a 
straggling,  irregular  rowr  of  twenty-four  huts,  all  of  the 
roughest  and  most  primitive  description,  situated  on 


122 


A PROMISING  FARMYARD 


the  highest  point  of  a shingly  beach  at  a bend  of  the 
Mimika  River.  Three  months  later,  so  many  addi- 
tions and  alterations  had  been  made  that  the  place  was 
hardly  recognisable.  A section  of  the  forest  to  the 
north  and  east  had  been  cleared,  a new  site  selected 
farther  away  from  the  river,  and  the  huts,  now  forty- 
five  in  number,  erected  afresh  on  an  altogether  superior 
plan. 

The  style  of  architecture  in  one  or  two  instances 
was  a very  good  imitation  of  what  had  been  adopted 
for  our  storehouses,  which,  owing  to  their  having 
been  built  almost  entirely  by  the  Gurkhas,  who  were 
naturally  influenced  by  the  type  of  building  they  had 
been  accustomed  to  live  in,  were  again  a copy  of  the 
usual  habitations  to  be  found  in  Nepal.  A dancing- 
hall  sufficient  to  hold  one  hundred  performers  had  also 
been  run  up,  from  whence  nightly  sounds  of  revelry 
and  the  thud,  thud  of  the  drums  told  of  much  dancing 
and  contented  lives.  Sad  to  relate,  this  attempt  on 
the  part  of  the  natives  to  improve  their  lot  was  largely 
labour  in  vain,  for  before  the  end  of  the  year  both 
land  and  huts  had  vanished,  swept  away  by  the  insa- 
tiable floods. 

On  our  side  of  the  river  a most  promising  farmyard 
was  established,  the  chief  inmates  being  three  or  four 
young  cassowaries  and  pigs,  which,  though  black  when 
mature,  are  at  this  early  age  marked  with  horizontal 
brown  and  yellow  stripes.  These  animals  rapidly 
became  tame,  and  within  a day  or  two  of  being 
captured  will  follow  one  about  like  dogs ; one  little 
pig  in  particular  used  to  play  the  familiar  puppy-dog 
game  of  racing  round  and  round  the  table,  squeal- 
ing hard  when  a grab  was  made  to  catch  him,  and 
when  one  got  tired  of  playing  thus,  would  seize  and 

123 


NATIVE  DOGS 

shake  one’s  trousers  to  show  that  he  for  his  part  wished 
to  continue  the  fun.  The  young  cassowaries  and  pigs 
are  easily  caught  by  the  natives,  the  mothers  being  run 
down  and  brought  to  bay  by  the  dogs  until  the  arrival 
of  the  hunters ; the  old  ones  then  break  away  and 
leave  the  young  to  be  caught  or  escape  as  best  they 
can.  If  possible,  the  squeakers  are  taken  alive  in  order 
to  be  brought  up  and  fed  by  the  villagers,  and  eaten 
at  some  special  festival.  When  young  and  ignorant 
of  the  unkind  ways  of  the  world,  they  have  a bad  time 
of  it  from  the  village  dogs,  being  chased  hither  and 
thither,  until  at  length  they  realise  by  bitter  experience 
that  the  hut  is  the  only  place  of  safety. 

The  dogs  are  of  the  usual  yellow  mongrel  type, 
about  the  size  of  an  Irish  terrier;  thin,  lank,  and 
covered  with  mange.  They  are  to  be  found  all  over 
New  Guinea,  and  are  much  prized  by  their  owners, 
for  on  their  keenness  and  hunting  instincts  depends 
the  regular  supply  of  meat.  Without  their  aid  hunt- 
ing would  be  but  an  unprofitable  labour,  and  the 
men  might  seek  in  vain  for  the  flesh  which  they  so 
much  relish.  Two  or  three  times  a week  they  are 
taken  out  and  rarely  fail  to  run  down  a pig,  cassowary 
or  wallaby,  sometimes  cornering  as  many  as  four  or 
five  of  the  latter  in  one  day.  Curiously  enough  they 
never  bark,  but  amply  make  up  for  any  inability  to 
relieve  their  feelings  in  this  respect  by  their  mournful 
and  prolonged  howls.  Started  by  one  dog,  the  identical 
note  is  taken  up  by  every  animal  within  hearing  dis- 
tance, and  is  continued  until  one  wishes  every  creature 
dead  and  buried.  Valuable  though  they  may  be  to 
their  owners,  they  are  starved,  cruelly  treated  and 
thrashed  on  the  slightest  provocation,  but,  in  spite  of 
the  fact  that  they  must  have  the  same  instincts  as  other 

124 


Wambirimi  Village 

The  home  of  the  Tapiro  pygmies. 


Parimau  Camp 

The  Biitish  section  with  retaining  walls  erected  after  the  second  flood. 


PET  ANIMALS 


dogs,  however  severe  the  rain  of  blows,  they  never 
move  away  at  a faster  rate  than  a Avalk.  This  is  not 
from  any  false  idea  of  dignity,  for  they  yelp  almost 
before  the  blow  is  struck,  and  keep  it  up  for  minutes 
afterwards.  Not  a single  dog  became  friendly  with  any 
of  our  men,  or  would  ever  enter  the  camp  except  under 
cover  of  darkness,  and  this  was  certainly  not  owing  to 
any  ill-treatment  they  received,  for  whatever  faults 
a Malay  may  have,  cruelty  to  animals  is  not  one  of 
them.  The  number  of  birds  and  pets  collected  by  our 
followers  at  Wakatimi  showed  this  clearly  enough; 
after  a time  their  lories  and  parrots  became  so  tame 
that  they  were  let  loose  to  fly  about  in  the  jungle  dur- 
ing the  daytime,  coming  down  and  alighting  on  the 
shoulders  of  their  masters  when  called  at  dusk. 

The  only  wild  animal  which  entirely  refused  to 
respond  to  friendly  overtures  and  efforts  to  tame  it  was 
the  night-loving  cuscus,  a sluggish  opossum-like  crea- 
ture, with  yellow  cat-like  eyes  and  a coat  suitable  for 
the  arctic  regions,  ever  ready  to  bite  and  prepared  to 
use  its  claws  on  the  slightest  provocation.  After  weeks 
of  careful  and  kind  treatment,  they  remained  as  savage 
and  unsociable  as  when  first  caught. 

As  is  usually  the  case,  most  of  the  pets  came  to 
untimely  ends,  and  except  for  the  birds  none  were  ever 
destined  to  find  a home  in  the  Zoological  Gardens  of 
London.  Indeed,  an  animal  or  bird  which  lives  in 
constant  danger  of  meeting  its  death  from  shot  or 
snare  seems  almost  to  have  a better  chance  of  remain- 
ing alive  than  one  which  is  cared  for  in  every  way  that 
man  can  devise.  Some  animals  seem  to  have  charmed 
lives,  and  this  was  the  case  with  a female  cassowary, 
which  for  a whole  year  passed  daily  backwards  and 
forwards  within  half  a mile  of  Parimau  Camp.  Her 

125 


UP  THE  MIMIKA 


deep-noted  call  was  heard  morning  and  evening  as 
she  went  her  usual  round  heedless  or  disdainful  of  the 
many  attempts  made  to  end  her  existence.  In  July 
her  continual  drumming  attracted  a male  bird  from 
the  forest  on  the  other  side  of  the  Mimika.  He 
emerged  one  morning  from  the  undergrowth  directly 
opposite  the  camp,  and  was  seen  to  march  across  the 
beach  and  attempt  to  ford  the  swollen  river.  Absorbed 
in  planning  out  a scheme  to  cross  the  torrent  he  passed 
close  to  the  huts  and  in  full  view  of  the  natives,  but 
seemed  to  be  too  preoccupied  to  notice  the  excited 
throngs  which  were  observing  him  from  both  banks ; 
and  it  was  not  until  half  a dozen  rifle  shots  had 
scattered  the  sand  near  him  that  he  realised  his  un- 
comfortable situation  and  retired  once  more  to  the 
seclusion  of  the  forest.  Undeterred  by  this  failure,  he 
made  another  attempt  on  the  following  day,  but  this 
time  with  more  unfortunate  results  to  himself,  for  a 
lucky  shot  laid  him  low  close  to  the  water's  edge.  This 
bird  proved  to  be  a new  variety,  and  would  have  been 
a valuable  acquisition  to  the  collection.  Unluckily, 
some  of  the  coolies  reached  the  carcase  first,  and  before 
they  could  be  stopped  had  plucked  out  handfuls  of  the 
best  feathers  with  which  to  make  fly  whisks  ! 

It  was  during  one  of  the  many  short  journeys 
undertaken  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  mammals  and 
birds,  that  a garrulous  and  unwary  savage  unintention- 
ally showed  Shortridge  a path  which  led  eastwards, 
at  the  other  end  of  which,  so  he  said,  a great  river 
ran.  Apparently  these  people  did  not  wish  us  to  know 
of  the  existence  of  this  route,  and  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  natives  often  arrived  from  some  place  in  that 
direction  always  professed  ignorance  when  questioned 
about  it.  It  was  a fortunate  discovery,  as  the  entrance 

126 


ARDUOUS  TRAVELLING 

was  so  well  concealed  that  we  should  never  have  hit 
upon  it  ourselves,  and  owing  to  the  Kapare  route 
having  proved  useless,  our  great  desire  was  to  find  a 
new  way  leading  towards  the  great  mountains  in  the 
east.  With  the  exception  of  this  valuable  piece  of 
information,  Shortridge’s  journey  yielded  no  zoological 
results,  and  indeed,  proved  an  unfortunate  one  for 
those  who  took  part  in  it.  It  may  be  interesting  to 
relate  briefly  the  adventures  of  the  party  on  this  occa- 
sion, as  they  give  a good  idea  of  the  difficulties  which 
were  constantly  being  experienced  as  the  result  of 
distant  storms  and  rainfall  in  the  mountains. 

Accompanied  by  two  Gurkhas,  Shortridge  set  out 
soon  after  daylight  for  the  purpose  of  working  the 
forest  close  round  the  source  of  the  Mimika,  taking 
with  him  sufficient  equipment  to  enable  him  to  pro- 
long his  stay  should  it  be  found  necessary  to  do  so. 
No  Papuans  were  employed  as  carriers,  as  they  had 
hitherto  proved  themselves  entirely  unreliable,  but 
with  the  usual  perverseness  of  the  native,  twelve  of 
them  followed  the  party  on  foot  to  a spot  where,  on 
account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  water  no  further 
progress  in  the  canoe  was  possible,  and  where,  in 
consequence,  the  tent  was  pitched. 

Leaving  one  Gurkha  behind,  Shortridge  pushed  on 
for  another  three  miles,  keeping  to  the  river-bed  so  as 
to  avoid  the  tedious  work  of  cutting  a way  through 
the  forest.  While  slowly  progressing  up-stream  in  this 
manner,  he  noticed  that  the  river  was  appreciably  rising, 
although  as  far  as  was  known  no  rain  had  fallen  any- 
where in  the  neighbourhood.  An  immediate  retire- 
ment was  decided  upon,  but  so  rapidly  did  the  river 
deepen  that  after  going  back  a few  hundred  yards 
they  were  forced  to  leave  the  bed  and  take  to  the 

127 


CAPSISED 


jungle.  At  the  first  creek,  which  half  an  hour  before 
had  contained  no  more  than  the  merest  trickle  of  water, 
they  were  only  too  glad  to  make  use  of  a fallen  tree 
in  order  to  gain  the  further  side.  After  a two  hours’ 
struggle  through  a sea  of  mud,  perpetually  felling  trees 
to  bridge  the  numerous  swollen  creeks  encountered, 
and  drenched  to  the  skin  by  the  rain  which  had  now 
commenced  to  fall,  they  arrived  at  the  place  where  the 
tent  had  been  left.  Here  the  country  was  found  to  be 
under  water  and  the  savages  standing  ankle-deep  on 
the  roots  of  the  trees,  whilst  the  tent  itself  and  the 
baggage  had  been  placed  for  safety  on  the  branches 
overhead. 

It  was  out  of  the  question  to  attempt  to  camp  in 
such  a place,  and  the  only  alternative  was  an  imme- 
diate return  by  canoe,  despite  the  swollen  state  of  the 
river.  Unfortunately  the  dozen  Papuans  had  also  come 
to  the  same  conclusion.  In  vain  did  Shortridge  attempt 
to  keep  them  out  of  the  boat ; they  had  made  up  their 
minds  to  come,  and  it  was  impossible  to  prevent  them. 
They  clambered  in  and,  seizing  the  poles,  started  the 
overladen  and  rickety  craft  on  her  homeward  voyage. 
Though  the  river  was  now  in  full  flood,  by  clever 
handling  of  the  canoe,  in  which  art  these  people  excel, 
they  would  doubtless  have  reached  home  safely  had  it 
not  been  for  a slightly  submerged  and  quite  invisible 
tree-trunk  500  yards  above  the  village  of  Parimau. 
This,  as  fate  would  have  it,  they  struck  full  in  the 
centre,  and  in  an  instant  the  canoe  had  capsised ; the 
occupants  were  thrown  into  the  water  and  struggled 
ashore  as  best  they  could.  Guns,  rifles,  and  provisions 
went  straight  to  the  bottom,  whilst  the  lighter  articles 
were  whirled  away  in  the  darkness.  The  old  men  of 
Parimau,  hearing  the  commotion,  rushed  from  their  huts 

128 


THE  LANGUAGE 


and,  wading  breast-high  into  the  torrent,  seized  most 
of  the  floating  goods  as  they  were  being  swept  past  the 
village.  The  women,  who  on  the  first  alarm  had  fled 
to  the  jungle,  on  learning  that  no  lives  had  been  lost, 
hurried  back  with  demonstrative  cries  of  joy  to  hug 
and  cry  over  the  bedraggled  heroes  of  the  adventure. 
No  real  harm  was  done,  as  the  weapons  were  recovered 
when  the  waters  had  subsided,  and  only  a few  unim- 
portant articles  were  irretrievably  lost.  This  rapid  rise 
of  the  river  was  by  no  means  exceptional ; in  fact,  it 
afterwards  became  a daily  occurrence,  varying  only 
according  to  the  intensity  of  the  storm  and  the  catch- 
ment area  first  struck. 

Except  for  short  journeys  such  as  this  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Parimau,  little  could  be  done  at  this  time 
owing  to  no  coolies  being  available  for  transport.  Our 
time  was  occupied  in  skinning  and  preparing  the  natural 
history  specimens  brought  in  by  the  Gurkhas,  whilst 
every  opportunity  was  taken  to  make  a fuller  study  of 
the  Papuans  working  in  and  around  the  camp  and  the 
small  parties  of  visitors  who  still  continued  to  trickle 
in  from  the  villages  lying  in  more  remote  districts. 

During  the  early  months  of  the  expedition  the  diffi- 
culty of  mastering  even  the  rudimentary  elements  of 
the  language  was  such  that  we  were  often  led  into 
forming  wrong  conclusions  as  to  the  customs  and  habits 
of  the  people  amongst  whom  we  were  living. 

As  an  example  of  the  mistakes  which  occur  when 
one  attempts  to  grasp  and  put  a meaning  to  the  words 
of  an  unknown  tongue,  the  following  is  typical.  We 
were  at  this  time  particularly  anxious  to  reach  the 
village  of  the  Tapiro  pygmies  whose  plantations  we 
had  already  visited,  or  indeed  any  other  village  belong- 
ing to  this  tribe  (it  was  not  till  several  months  after- 

129  I 


“ OEWERA-MINA  ” 


wards  that  we  learnt  that  they  were  known  as  Tapiros), 
but,  before  making  any  inquiries  as  to  how  to  get  there, 
it  was  first  of  all  necessary  to  know  what  the  little  men 
were  called  by  their  greater  brethren  of  the  plains. 
After  much  discussion  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  word  “ oewera  ” meant  “ men,”  and  the  word 
“ mina  ” meant  “ small,”  so  having  settled  this  point 
guides  were  obtained  from  the  village  and  instructed 
to  lead  us  to  the  place  where  the  “ oewera-mina  ” 
dwelt. 

Several  small  journeys  were  undertaken  for  the 
purpose  of  seeing  the  “ oewera-mina  ” in  their  homes, 
but,  curiously  enough,  despite  the  promises  of  the 
Papuans,  not  once  did  we  have  the  slightest  success. 

Now,  one  of  the  Papuan  carriers  was  of  diminutive 
size,  and  although  we  knew  his  real  name  to  be  Tibbo, 
as  a joke  he  was  nicknamed  “ Oewera-mina.”  This 
caused  hilarious  merriment  amongst  his  friends,  and 
despite  his  evident  dislike  to  the  term  the  name  stuck, 
and  by  it  he  was  known  to  the  end  of  the  expedition. 
Not  till  long  afterwards  did  we  learn  that  “ mina”  was 
the  Papuan  for  “ no,”  and  discovered  that  we  had  been 
making  efforts,  not  to  reach  the  home  of  the  pygmies, 
but  the  land  where  “ no  man  ” lived.  Added  to 
this,  we  had  insulted  our  small  carrier  whenever  we 
addressed  him  by  calling  him  “ no  man,”  a term  of 
deadly  reproach  in  this  land  where  woman  is  held  of 
no  account. 

As  time  went  on  and  our  knowledge  of  the  language 
increased  we  were  able  to  form  clearer  ideas  regard- 
ing the  customs  and  beliefs  of  this  primitive  people. 
Though  their  intellectual  powers  are  very  limited,  and 
though  swayed  almost  entirely  by  their  animal  passions, 
the  study  of  their  mode  of  life  and  ways  of  thinking 

130 


BIRTH— MARRI  AGE— DEATH 


was  exceedingly  interesting,  and  one  was  enabled  to 
realise  how  the  savage  forefathers  of  the  British  race 
must  have  lived  and  reasoned  three  thousand  years 
ago,  until  contact  with  the  outside  world  raised  them 
to  a higher  plane  of  civilisation. 

In  most  societies  the  chief  incidents  in  a man’s  life 
— birth,  marriage,  or  death — are  associated  with  be- 
coming rites  and  ceremonies.  Curiously  enough,  the 
savages  of  the  Mimika  district  do  not  attach  any 
particular  significance  to  these  events,  and  seldom 
mark  them  by  observances  or  rejoicings.  Marriages, 
except  on  special  occasions,  are  not  considered  of 
much  importance,  and  are  not  celebrated  by  feasts 
or  jollification ; in  fact,  they  might  be  more  properly 
described  as  “pairing  off”  than  as  what  we  understand 
as  marriage.  It  must  be  remembered  that  woman  is 
regarded  merely  as  an  accessory  to  man’s  comfort,  a 
slave  to  his  pleasures,  and  a creature  whose  chief  busi- 
ness it  is  to  procure  and  prepare  his  food.  The  girl  is 
purchased  and  brought  home  to  the  man’s  village.  The 
husband  erects  a separate  hut,  away  from  inquisitive 
eyes,  but  close  to  the  village,  and  here  the  couple  live 
for  two  or  three  weeks,  afterwards  joining  the  rest  of 
the  inhabitants  in  what  is  practically  the  communal 
dwelling-room.  It  seems  strange  that  the  occasion  is 
not  made  more  of  by  organising  a “ sing-song,”  a great 
hunt  or  a feast  of  some  sort,  but  such  is  not  the  case  ; 
instead  of  this  all  is  passed  over  in  complete  silence, 
and  no  particular  significance  is  attached  to  this 
dominating  event  in  a man’s  life.  Nor  is  any  attention 
paid  to  birth.  Not  once  were  we  made  aware  of  the 
coming  into  the  world  of  a child,  and  this  seems  all  the 
more  curious,  as  the  natives  treat  the  children  with 
great  kindness  and  affection. 

131 


BIRTH— MARRIAGE— DEATH 


It  does  sometimes  happen  in  the  case  of  an  im- 
portant member  of  the  tribe  that  the  marriage  is 
marked  by  festivities  and  singing,  though  even  this 
is  exceptional.  Such  an  occurrence  was  witnessed  by 
Goodfellow  at  Wakatimi  when  the  nuptials  of  one  of 
the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  were  celebrated.  On 
this  occasion  a large  awning  was  erected  in  the  village 
street  and  decorated  with  much  trade  cloth ; beneath 
this  a concert  was  held  at  which  the  members  of  the 
tribe  were  present.  The  singing  was  kept  up  all  night, 
and  in  the  morning  canoes,  decorated  with  carving  and 
fringes  of  grass,  left  the  village  for  some  spot  down- 
stream. Some  few  hours  afterwards  they  returned, 
and  the  men  disembarked  and  re-entered  their  huts. 
Then  followed  what  to  our  eyes  was  a most  pitiable 
and  degrading  ceremony.  Out  of  one  of  the  boats 
emerged  the  bride,  accompanied  by  a very  old  woman — 
probably  her  mother.  No  welcome  was  accorded  them, 
and  no  notice  taken  of  their  presence.  The  bride, 
preceded  by  the  old  woman,  crawled  out  of  the  canoe 
into  the  mud,  and  on  her  hands  and  knees  approached 
the  hut  of  her  lord  in  the  same  way  that  a dog  crawls 
up  to  his  master,  knowing  that  he  is  to  be  punished  for 
some  fault.  Slowly  she  advanced  in  this  degrading 
posture,  stopping  every  now  and  then  to  grovel  in 
the  mud,  until  she  vanished  through  the  doorway  of 
her  future  home.  Poor  woman,  who  could  not  but 
pity  her ! 

Other  rites  and  ceremonies  there  may  be,  but  what- 
ever their  nature  they  must  be  of  the  simplest  possible 
description.  Our  position  at  Parimau  commanded  a 
view  right  down  the  village  street,  and  had  any  celebra- 
tion out  of  the  ordinary  taken  place  we  could  not  have 
helped  seeing  it. 


132 


DISEASE 

As  to  death  and  burial  customs  there  was,  unfor- 
tunately, enough  evidence  and  to  spare,  for  probably 
nowhere  in  the  world  are  the  birth  and  death  rates 
so  high.  Middle-aged  men  and  women  are  rarely  seen, 
and  I doubt  if  any  person  over  forty,  or  at  the  most 
forty-five,  years  of  age  is  to  be  found  in  the  district. 
Boys  spring  into  manhood  and  the  young  girls  into 
womanhood  in  the  course  of  a few  months,  the  latter 
becoming  mothers  as  soon  as  they  are  capable  of  bear- 
ing children,  and  then  withering  up  and  shrivelling 
away  under  the  toil  and  strain  of  their  laborious  exist- 
ence. Several  boys  whom  upon  our  arrival  we  had 
looked  upon  as  mere  children  were  amongst  the  ranks 
of  the  men  when  we  left  the  district  some  fifteen 
months  later. 

Fever,  boils,  pneumonia,  elephantiasis,  skin  disease, 
leprosy,  and  syphilis  are  the  main  ills  from  which  they 
suffer,  more  especially  the  last  named,  which  here 
assumes  a typical  form.  About  20  per  cent,  of  the 
population  appear  to  be  afflicted  with  this  dire  com- 
plaint, the  wrists  and  ankles  being  the  parts  chiefly 
affected.  The  scourge  would  seem  to  have  been 
brought  into  the  land  by  the  Chinese ; at  any  rate 
there  is  no  doubt  that  they  are  responsible  for  its  intro- 
duction amongst  the  people  living  in  the  northern  and 
western  part  of  the  island,  from  whence  it  has  spread 
round  the  coast  to  the  more  southern  districts.  It  was 
particularly  noticeable  amongst  the  natives  of  the  coast 
village  of  Atabo,  where  nearly  half  the  population 
showed  visible  signs  of  its  ravages.  It  is  unnecessary 
to  say  more  on  the  subject,  for  the  sights  we  witnessed 
were  too  horrible  to  relate,  and  the  sufferings  of  the 
stricken,  more  especially  the  children,  were  sufficient  to 
melt  the  stoniest  of  hearts.  What  a contrast  between 

133 


MEDICINE 


the  deformed  and  shrinking  human  being  and  the 
Papuan  in  rude  health,  graceful  and  powerful,  every 
muscle  standing  out  clean  and  distinct  and  the  skin 
gleaming  with  physical  well-being  ! 

A great  number  of  the  natives  appear  to  suffer  at 
some  time  or  other  from  malaria,  and  the  only  wonder 
is  that  more  are  not  affected,  considering  how  the 
malaria-carrying  mosquito  abounds  in  the  swampy 
forests.  For  this  wre  often  gave  the  people  quinine, 
sometimes  -with  astonishing  effect.  Our  old  friend,  the 
headman  of  Nime,  had  his  two  wives  down  with  fever 
at  the  same  time,  and  brought  them  into  camp  whilst 
we  wrere  away  at  the  coast.  The  younger  was  the 
prettiest  girl  in  the  district,  and,  to  judge  by  her  coy 
behaviour,  was  well  aware  of  the  fact.  During  her 
examination  blushes  coloured  her  dusky  skin,  and 
Marshall  took  an  unconscionable  time  in  feeling  her 
pulse  and  inquiring  into  her  symptoms.  The  quinine 
worked  wonders,  and  the  fever,  which  had  possibly  been 
aggravated  by  the  excitement  of  the  meeting,  abated 
almost  immediately. 

The  people  seemed  to  have  no  knowledge  what- 
ever of  the  medicinal  value  of  herbs,  and  only  the 
most  rudimentary  idea  of  surgery,  limited,  so  far  as 
we  could  see,  to  opening  the  centre  of  the  affected 
area  with  a split  cane.  Knowing  nothing  themselves 
about  the  art  of  healing  they,  like  so  many  savage 
races,  loved  medicine,  and  -would  often  feign  headache, 
or  some  such  ailment  equally  hard  to  diagnose,  for  the 
purpose  of  being  given  a heavy  dose  of  pills.  By  the 
quickness  with  which  the  patient  recovered  his  former 
spirits  and  the  manner  in  which  he  settled  himself 
where  he  could  most  comfortably  watch  and  take  an 
intelligent  interest  in  the  work  being  performed  by 

134 


Papuans  experimenting  for  the  first  time  with  Soap 


MEDICINE 

others,  the  cure  was  a high  tribute  to  the  skill  of  the 
doctors,  but  to  the  onlooker  was  open  to  suspicion. 
Their  powers  of  recuperation  are  extraordinary.  I re- 
member the  case  of  a Parimau  man  who,  when  wielding 
an  axe,  had  almost  cut  his  foot  in  two.  Blood  poison- 
ing supervened.  When  the  case  appeared  hopeless  and 
the  loss  of  the  limb,  or  even  the  man’s  life,  was  likely 
to  result,  he  was  brought  over  for  Wollaston  to  attend. 
The  wound  was  disinfected  and  dressed,  and  the  man 
told  to  come  over  again  on  the  following  day.  As 
might  be  expected  from  these  perverse  people,  the 
patient  was  taken  away  and  no  more  seen  for  five 
weeks.  He  was  then  found  to  have  completely  re- 
covered and  to  have  the  full  use  of  his  foot,  although 
naturally  much  disfigured,  and  of  this  weird  limb  he 
was  inordinately  proud. 

No  care  is  ever  taken  of  the  sick,  since  comforts 
and  medicines  are  unknown,  and  the  sufferer  breathes 
his  last  in  full  view  of  all,  amidst  the  everyday  noises 
and  quarrelling  of  the  village.  The  body  is  left  in  the 
place  where  death  supervened,  the  mourners  flinging 
themselves  on  the  corpse  and  rending  the  air  with  their 
shrieks.  The  howl  of  grief  is  taken  up  by  all  within 
hearing,  and  the  people  then  proceed  to  the  nearest 
mud  pool  to  smear  themselves  from  head  to  foot  with 
filth  and  slime,  returning  again  to  their  huts  to  allow 
the  mud  to  dry,  whilst  the  mournful  wailing  is  con- 
tinued without  cessation.  The  near  relatives,  both 
male  and  female,  often  remove  every  vestige  of  clothing 
and  continue  their  ordinary  vocations  for  some  days 
afterwards  without  washing  off  the  mud  with  which 
they  are  covered.  On  one  occasion,  all  the  women 
having  stripped  naked,  entered  the  river  and  paddled 
like  dogs  for  a short  distance  up  stream,  returning 

135 


BURIALS 

afterwards  with  renewed  howling  to  their  homes.  The 
length  of  time  during  which  grief  is  openly  displayed, 
and  the  intensity  of  its  expression,  varies  according  to 
the  importance  of  the  deceased,  but  it  is  always  less  for 
a woman  than  for  a man. 

Shortly  after  the  burial  of  a husband  the  widow 
adopts  “weeds,”  consisting  of  a cloak  and  skirt  of 
plaited  grass,  together  with  a great  poke  bonnet  which 
stands  out  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  beyond  the  face. 
Widowers,  whatever  their  inner  feelings  may  be,  adopt 
no  peculiar  style  of  costume  to  express  any  outward 
signs  of  grief. 

If  death  occurs  in  the  morning  the  body  is  interred 
on  the  same  day,  otherwise  on  the  day  following.  It 
is  wrapped  in  pandanus  matting,  and  carried  shoulder 
high  to  the  place  of  interment,  followed  by  the  entire 
population  amidst  outbursts  of  lamentation.  The 
corpse  is  laid  in  the  grave  and  covered  lightly  with 
soil,  and  is  then  roughly  enclosed  with  sticks  to  prevent 
the  entrance  of  the  village  pigs  and  dogs.  Sometimes 
the  body  is  left  uncovered,  and  is  then  turned  over 
daily,  apparently  with  the  object  of  hastening  decom- 
position. A coffin,  formed  from  a hollowed  log  and 
shaped  very  much  like  a canoe,  is  occasionally  utilised, 
and  is  either  buried  in  the  soil  or,  as  we  observed  in 
some  few  instances,  placed  on  trestles  two  or  three 
feet  above  the  ground.  The  result  is  always  the  same, 
for  in  this  hot,  damp  climate  the  body  rapidly  decom- 
poses, leaving  the  bones  clean  and  bare.  These  are  taken 
from  the  grave  or  coffin  and  preserved  in  the  ancestral 
hut,  where  they  may  be  seen  slung  in  grass  bags  or  sus- 
pended by  strings  from  the  roof.  The  skull,  however,  is 
the  only  part  deemed  of  great  importance,  and  even 
then  it  is  only  valued  at  the  price  of  a handkerchief. 

136 


BRISK  MARKET  IN  SKULLS 

Specimens  of  skulls  were  required  by  the  expedition 
for  scientific  purposes,  and  when  this  became  known 
dozens  were  displayed  or  brought  to  the  camp  for  sale. 
Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Parimau  Marshall  saw  a skull 
lying  on  the  floor  of  a hut  and  at  once  coveted  it,  but 
the  request  to  be  allowed  a close  examination  pro- 
duced such  a scowling  and  talking  that  we  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  these  relics  of  the  dead  must  be 
priceless  heirlooms.  Determined  to  secure  one  by  fair 
means  or  foul,  I took  the  most  friendly  native  to  a 
secluded  spot,  Marshall  meanwhile  keeping  his  com- 
panions busy  talking  ; after  much  difficulty  I succeeded 
in  making  him  understand  what  was  wanted.  Fearing 
trouble  if  the  deed  was  found  out,  I did  my  best  to 
explain  that  he  was  to  obtain  a skull  and  bring  it  over 
to  the  camp  at  night,  without  saying  a word  about  it 
to  anyone.  For  this  he  was  to  get  a knife  and  hand- 
kerchief. The  prospective  desecrator  of  graves — for 
I looked  upon  him  as  such — at  once  walked  to  the 
bank  opposite  the  village  and,  with  a voice  which 
could  be  heard  by  every  soul,  brazened  forth  the  fact 
that  we  were  collecting  human  skulls.  I did  my  best 
to  prevent  this  outburst,  but  it  was  too  late.  In  a 
moment  the  village  was  in  an  uproar,  but  to  our 
intense  surprise,  instead  of  any  hostile  demonstration 
taking  place,  at  least  a dozen  men  emerged  from  the 
huts,  each  with  a skull  tucked  under  his  arm.  Down 
the  beach  and  through  the  water  they  raced  to  our 
tents,  each  striving  to  be  the  first  to  dispose  of  his 
relic,  delighted  at  the  idea  that  trade  goods  could  be 
so  easily  obtained  and  no  manual  labour  required  in 
return. 

I wish  I could  say  more  about  the  beliefs  and 
secret  customs  of  these  people,  but  the  great  difficulty 

137 


RELIGION 


experienced  in  understanding  one  another  prevented 
any  intelligent  conversation  on  these  subjects.  When 
alone  they  would  give  but  little  information,  and, 
when  two  or  three  were  together,  they  insisted  upon 
all  talking  at  once.  It  was  bad  enough  to  understand 
when  only  one  man  spoke,  but  when  all  joined  in  the 
result  was  a hopeless  babel  of  sound.  Much,  however, 
can  be  learnt  by  personal  observation,  and  small  things, 
apparently  unimportant  in  themselves,  when  pieced 
together  often  allow  of  fairly  complete  and  accurate 
deductions  being  formed. 

The  wailing  which  takes  place  on  the  arrival  of 
visitors,  and  which  had  so  startled  us  on  our  first 
journey  up  the  river,  we  found  out  afterwards  to  be 
a form  of  prayer  practised  during  the  performance  of 
any  risky  deed,  at  the  ceremonious  slaughter  of  a pig, 
and  even  at  the  setting  of  the  sun. 

There  is  nothing  to  indicate  that  these  savages 
have  any  definite  belief  in  a Deity,  nor  did  we  observe 
any  signs  of  religious  worship.  In  front  of  the 
principal  huts  in  the  village  of  Xime  stood  a rudely 
carved  figure  of  a man,  about  four  feet  in  height. 
Another  and  similar  idol  was  propped  against  a tree 
in  the  village  of  Atabo,  whilst  a third  was  discovered 
in  some  bushes  half-way  up  the  Mimika,  apparently 
brought  down  and  washed  ashore  by  a flood.  The 
natives  showed  no  respect  for  any  of  these  idols,  but 
laughed  at  our  interest  in  them,  familiarly  patting  their 
rather  shapeless  limbs.  So  long  had  the  third  specimen 
been  in  the  position  in  which  it  was  discovered  that  a 
branch  had  grown  through  the  ribs,  whilst  the  fact  that 
it  had  remained  there  such  a length  of  time  showed  of 
how  little  value  it  was  in  the  eyes  of  those  who  had 
fashioned  its  malformed  body. 

138 


COURAGE  OF  THE  NATIVES 

Belief  in  a future  life,  however,  is  common  to  all 
savages  throughout  the  world,  and  it  is  the  same  here, 
for  when  asked  what  became  of  a man  after  death,  the 
native  would  reply,  “ Far  away,”  with  a vague  sweep 
of  the  hand  towards  the  horizon. 

They  are  not  wanting  in  courage,  which  sometimes 
amounts  to  foolhardiness.  On  the  coast  the  frail  canoes 
are  taken  far  out  to  sea  and  through  the  roughest  of 
surf,  without  any  fear  being  shown  of  the  ground-sharks 
which  swarm  in  these  waters.  When  in  a canoe  on  the 
river,  or  when  swimming,  there  is  no  rapid  too  swift,  no 
current  too  strong,  for  these  men  to  venture  through. 
Even  of  the  alligators  the  native  has  no  fear,  plunging 
in  to  seize  the  smaller  ones  and,  at  the  sight  of  the 
larger,  merely  heaving  a sigh  of  regret  owing  to  its  being 
beyond  his  power  to  secure  so  large  a store  of  meat. 

On  land  the  same  disregard  of  danger  is  shown.  The 
large  number  of  snakes,  mostly  poisonous,  which  abound 
in  the  forests  are  looked  upon  not  as  dangerous  to 
human  life,  but  as  a valuable  supply  of  food.  At 
Parimau,  when  it  became  known  that  snakes  were  re- 
quired for  the  reptile  collection,  large  numbers  of  horned 
adders  and  other  varieties  were  brought  in  to  camp, 
though  the  bite  from  any  of  them  meant  certain  death. 
As  badly  damaged  specimens  were  rejected,  they  were 
generally  brought  in  alive  and  uninjured,  either  held  by 
the  neck,  twisted  round  a stick,  or  sometimes  even 
wrapped  in  a bunch  of  leaves.  On  one  occasion  the 
snake  was  brought  in  coiled  on  the  top  of  a bunch  of 
leaves,  held  in  the  hollow  of  the  bent  arm.  A life 
of  incessant  watchfulness  has  endowed  the  native  with 
a remarkable  quickness  of  eye  and  deftness  of  hand. 
As  an  instance  of  this,  when  Goodfellow  was  crossing  a 
small  stream  on  the  way  to  Tuaba,  the  native  immedi- 

139 


COURAGE  OF  THE  NATIVES 

ately  in  front  of  him,  who  was  carrying  a heavy  load, 
made  a dive  into  the  shallow  trickle  of  water  and 
brought  forth  a writhing  adder  in  his  hand.  He  was 
quite  unconcerned,  and  after  offering  it  to  Goodfellow 
passed  it  on  to  the  man  in  rear,  telling  him  to  keep  it 
for  the  evening  meal.  On  another  occasion  when  a tree 
which  was  being  cut  down  crashed  into  the  river,  a 
poisonous  snake  was  cast  from  the  branches  into  the 
water.  Our  coolies  sent  a shower  of  stones  after  it  as  it 
swam  away,  but  Nata,  a small  boy  belonging  to  the 
village  opposite,  not  wishing  to  lose  the  chance  of  the 
reward,  plunged  into  the  stream,  and  grasping  the 
wriggling  creature  behind  the  head,  brought  it  to  land, 
where  it  was  forthwith  consigned  to  the  spirit  bottle. 

These  are  only  one  or  two  of  the  numerous  instances 
of  the  fearlessness  displayed  by  the  natives  in  dealing 
with  dangerous  animals  which  came  to  our  notice  during 
the  time  we  were  in  the  country. 

The  power  to  endure  pain  is  another  trait  in  their 
character.  They  will  stand  an  operation  in  silence  and 
without  flinching.  In  the  various  combats  with  clubs 
which  they  practise,  though  each  man  in  turn  receives 
resounding  thumps  on  the  back,  sufficient  to  break  an 
ordinary  man’s  ribs,  not  a tremor  is  shown,  nor  is  there 
any  shrinking  from  the  punishment.  But  show  them 
something  they  do  not  understand,  such  as  an  electric 
torch,  or  a “ Teddy  bear,”  and  the  untutored  mind  is  at 
once  full  of  misgivings. 

The  electric  torch,  brought  into  the  country  for 
night  work  with  the  theodolite,  struck  greater  terror 
into  the  hearts  of  these  people  than  our  entire  armoury 
of  offensive  weapons  combined.  It  had  to  be  but 
lifted  from  the  table  and  every  native  within  view 
would  at  once  leave  the  camp.  The  following  incident 

140 


USEFUL  ELECTRIC  TORCH 

will  give  some  idea  in  what  high  esteem  its  magic 
properties  were  held,  and  how  by  its  use  did  a woman 
escape  a severe  beating,  if  nothing  worse.  One  night, 
some  hours  after  we  had  turned  in  to  sleep,  we  were 
awakened  by  the  shrill  screams  of  a woman  in  the 
village  opposite,  accompanied  by  the  guttural  exclama- 
tions of  a man  in  anger,  and  the  sound  of  blows.  The 
uproar  increased,  the  whole  village  was  astir,  and  the 
shadowy  forms  of  men  could  be  seen  running  back- 
wards and  forwards  as  if  seeking  for  someone.  The 
tumult  slowly  subsided.  Beyond  this  we  could  make 
out  nothing,  and  were  just  turning  into  bed  again,  when 
a roar  of  anger  went  up  from  the  crowd,  and  a rush  was 
made  across  the  shingle  beach.  Simultaneously  there 
was  a splash,  and  by  the  ripples  in  the  water  a figure 
could  be  seen  swimming  hard  in  our  direction,  evidently 
with  the  intention  of  taking  cover  in  the  shadow  of 
our  overhanging  bank.  We  had  to  try  and  protect  the 
fugitive,  doubtless  the  woman  whose  screams  we  had 
heard,  but  could  not  lend  a helping  hand  lest  our  action 
would  be  detected  and  a worse  retribution  eventually 
overtake  her.  Marshall  at  the  time  was  holding  the 
electric  torch,  and  this  he  turned  full  on  the  people, 
with  most  striking  results.  In  an  instant  there  was 
dead  silence,  and  without  another  word  being  uttered 
or  a man  venturing  to  enter  the  water  the  crowd  dis- 
persed and  slunk  back  to  their  homes.  Who  the 
woman  was,  or  what  became  of  her,  we  know  not,  but 
that  she  escaped  the  first  outburst  of  anger  was  the 
most  important  thing,  and  for  this  the  torch  was 
entirely  responsible. 


141 


CHAPTER  X 


The  track  to  Ibo — The  Tuaba  River — Inundations — Tattoo  marks — Hospi- 
tality— A critical  moment — Expeditious  house  moving — A zoological 
collection — The  bower-bird— Birds  of  paradise — Arrival  of  fresh  coolies 
— Poling  and  paddling— Trade  articles 

ON  the  last  day  of  March  Marshall  and  I started  on 
a journey  eastward  along  the  path  discovered  by 
Shortridge  a fortnight  previously.  The  Papuans  were 
only  too  anxious  on  this  occasion  to  carry  the  loads,  for 
they  had  intended  in  any  case  to  go  in  that  direction, 
and  to  receive  payment  for  their  journey  was  just  what 
they  desired.  The  track  branched  off  from  the  Mimika 
some  three  miles  above  the  camp,  this  circuitous  route 
being  taken  in  order  to  avoid  an  impassable  sago  swamp 
which  lay  directly  to  the  east  of  Parimau.  The  going 
was  heavy,  and  from  the  faintness  of  the  track  it  ap- 
peared that  the  road  was  little  used ; the  bent  and 
broken  twigs  on  either  hand,  however,  showed  that  it 
was  the  recognised  route.  Innumerable  streams  crossed 
the  road,  several  of  them  waist  deep,  but  otherwise 
there  were  no  obstacles  to  our  progress. 

News  of  our  coming  must  have  been  sent  on,  for 
at  the  half-way  halt  half  a dozen  natives  were  found 
waiting  to  assist  with  the  loads.  One  of  these  carried 
a young  pig,  its  snout  tightly  bound  with  rope,  and 
to  judge  from  the  torn  arm  of  its  owner,  a decidedly 
savage  little  beast.  So  bad  was  the  inflammation 
and  so  much  pain  did  it  cause  that  the  man  was  only 
too  pleased  to  have  it  at  once  attended  to  by  Marshall. 

142 


THE  TUABA  RIVER 

In  spite  of  this  he  absolutely  refused  to  be  parted 
from  his  pig,  and  I know  that  he  looked  after  it  well, 
as  some  time  afterwards  I saw  it  when  fully  grown ; 
later  on  it  must  have  gone  the  way  of  all  well-flavoured 
pigs,  for  it  disappeared  from  view. 

Five  miles  after  leaving  the  Mimika  we  came  out 
on  to  the  banks  of  one  of  the  channels  of  the  Tuaba, 
which  at  this  time  carried  a great  volume  of  water  and 
was  quite  unfordable.  Luckily  a tree  had  fallen  into 
the  water  and  jammed  almost  from  bank  to  bank,  and 
by  means  of  this  and  a rattan  rope  we  were  able  to 
reach  the  other  side.  The  experience  was  exciting, 
and  we  were  inclined  to  think  dangerous,  an  opinion 
apparently  shared  by  the  natives,  judging  by  the  con- 
tinuous wailing  which  was  kept  up  by  the  patriarch  of 
the  party  whilst  the  operation  was  in  progress.  Later 
on  in  the  year  the  river  changed  into  another  channel, 
so  that  this  useful  natural  bridge  was  no  longer 
necessary. 

The  Tuaba  rises  near  the  foot  of  the  great  precipice 
to  the  north,  at  a distance  of  some  twenty-five  miles  or 
more  from  this  place,  and  is  quite  as  large  a river  as  the 
Kapare. 

There  being  no  ground  high  and  dry  above  the  level 
of  the  river,  the  tents  were  pitched  on  an  island  close  to 
a few  native  huts,  but  owing  to  the  rain  which  fell  during 
the  night  it  proved  to  be  anything  but  a secure  harbour 
of  refuge.  The  water  actually  spread  over  the  floor  of 
the  tent,  but  luckily  on  this  occasion  subsided  before 
any  damage  had  been  done.  As  long  as  we  were  in 
the  country  we  were  obliged  to  use  this  site  to  camp 
on,  as  no  higher  ground  was  to  be  found  anywhere 
near.  Time  and  again  it  was  flooded  whilst  occupied 
by  our  parties ; the  baggage  on  one  occasion  being 

143 


INUNDATIONS 


rescued  by  the  natives,  whilst  the  coolies  had  to  spend 
the  night  in  the  trees. 

During  the  first  six  months  our  coolies  were  always 
able  to  cross  by  means  of  the  fallen  tree,  but  when  the 
south-east  monsoons  broke  over  the  island,  and  the 
heavy  floods  formed  another  channel,  some  other  means 
had  to  be  found.  Accordingly,  a canoe  was  brought 
and  moored  to  the  trees,  and  this  worked  splendidly 
until  it  was  commandeered  by  the  Ibo  people,  who  still 
continued  to  look  upon  it  as  their  property  although  it 
had  been  bought  and  paid  for. 

Marshall  and  I had  often  heard  of  this  village  of 

O 

Ibo  and  the  Ivamura  River  upon  which  it  was  said  to 
be  situated,  so  that  we  jumped  at  the  chance  of  joining 
the  natives  who  proposed  to  make  a visit  to  that  place. 
No  baggage  could  be  put  into  the  rickety  and  overladen 
canoe,  and  as  the  Tuaba  was  in  full  flood  after  the 
night's  rain  we  had  numerous  opportunities,  when 
racing  down  stream  with  the  speed  of  a destroyer,  of 
appreciating  the  balancing  abilities  of  the  natives  and 
their  power  of  guiding  a canoe.  At  times  the  boat 
moved  slowly  over  an  expanse  of  mud-coloured  water, 
at  others  it  darted  at  racing  speed  through  narrow 
rapids,  whilst  the  waves  splashed  over  the  side,  a 
dexterous  touch  of  the  pole  keeping  it  clear  of  the 
half-hidden  logs. 

As  mile  after  mile  went  by  the  river  gradually 
increased  in  size,  and  opened  out  on  either  hand,  the 
dark  green  of  the  forest  being  broken  by  stretches  of 
gravel  or  occasional  masses  of  dead  and  tangled  timber 
brought  down  by  former  floods. 

Two  small  villages  were  passed,  but  the  speed  at 
which  w'e  were  going  precluded  a close  examination. 
Eventually  seven  miles  lower  down  we  entered  a large 

144 


Tattooed  Woman 

Raised  weals  made  by  sharpened  shells 


Parimau 

The  usual  idle  morning  scene  in  front  of  the  village. 


TATTOO  MARKS 

triangular  area  of  water  formed  by  the  j unction  of  the 
Kamura  and  the  Tuaba.  Here  we  landed,  for  etiquette 
forbade  a nearer  approach  to  the  village  until  due  warning 
had  been  given.  Ibo  could  be  seen  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Kamura  half  a mile  away,  and  it  was  evident  our 
arrival  was  the  cause  of  much  consternation.  Men 
were  running  about  grasping  spears  or  bows  and  arrows, 
and  jostling  the  women  folk  into  the  forest.  When 
all  was  ready  they  advanced  towards  us  in  a threatening 
manner.  Much  waving  of  rags  of  cloth  on  the  part  of 
our  men,  and  the  evidently  peaceful  attitude  we  had 
adopted,  soon  caused  these  hostile  preparations  to  be 
abandoned,  and  we  were  forthwith  escorted  to  the 
village  and  introduced  to  numerous  talkative  and 
highly  gratified  greybeards. 

There  is  practically  no  difference,  either  in  appear- 
ance or  in  habits,  between  the  men  of  Parimau  and 
Ibo,  and  they  undoubtedly  belong  to  the  same  tribe. 
Further  proof  of  this  is  afforded  by  their  having  the 
same  tribal  mark  tattooed  on  the  buttocks.  Neither 
here  nor  along  the  coast  do  the  women  bear  this  mark, 
but  instead,  simply  from  love  of  decoration,  they  have 
a few  unsightly  raised  and  contracted  ridges  between 
the  breasts  or  on  the  shoulder-blades.  One  woman 
in  particular,  the  wife  of  the  chief  of  Nime,  had  her 
back  extensively  scarred  with  these  disfiguring  slashes, 
which,  as  they  followed  no  regular  design,  did  not  add 
in  any  way  to  the  attractiveness  of  her  appearance. 
Except  for  these  unsightly  marks  the  art  of  tattooing 
seems  to  be  unknown  in  the  district,  though  it  is 
almost  universal  along  the  north  coast  of  the  island, 
where  considerable  skill  is  displayed  both  in  execution 
and  design. 

The  village  of  Ibo  consisted  of  thirty  of  the  usual 

145  k 


HOSPITALITY 

leaf  huts,  from  which,  as  we  landed,  peered  dozens  of 
women’s  and  children’s  faces.  No  smiles  of  welcome 
were  to  be  seen,  only  looks  of  curiosity  or  suspicion. 
It  is  merely  by  taking  not  the  slightest  notice  of  the 
women,  or  by  passing  them  over  as  if  their  very 
existence  was  not  suspected,  that  any  confidence  can 
be  obtained  by  the  female  section  of  the  population. 
Their  opinions  have  been  of  such  little  avail  in  the 
councils  of  the  men  from  time  immemorial  that  they 
now  look  upon  themselves  as  mere  chattels. 

However  low  in  the  civilised  scale  the  men  and 
women  may  be,  they  certainly  do  not  lack  the  ele- 
mentary virtue  of  hospitality,  yet  the  form  in  which 
it  was  offered  was  little  to  our  liking.  Though  they 
understood  quite  well  that  we  intended  to  return  the 
same  day  to  our  camp  on  the  Tuaba,  and  that  we 
had  brought  no  tents,  food,  or  bedding  with  us,  they 
insisted  upon  erecting  a hut,  in  which  they  told  us  we 
were  to  sleep.  What  mattered  it,  they  said,  if  there 
■was  no  bedding ; was  not  the  sand  warm  and  dry  ? 
and  as  for  food,  was  there  not  an  abundance  of  sago  ? 
To  prove  that  we  need  have  no  fear  of  going  hungry 
to  bed,  a couple  of  large  flabby  fish  were  produced. 
We  thanked  them  in  the  best  way  we  could  for  their 
offer,  but  told  them  that  to  stay  the  night  was  out 
of  the  question,  as  only  one  Gurkha  had  been  left  in 
charge  of  our  goods,  and  that  it  was  necessary  to 
return  at  once.  We  had  hoped  that  the  natives  who 
had  brought  us  down  the  river  would  likewise  take  us 
back,  but  when  we  asked  them  to  do  so  not  a single 
man  would  enter  the  canoe,  and  the  more  we  tried  per- 
suasion the  sulkier  they  became,  declaring  that  they 
had  no  intention  whatever  of  returning  that  day.  To 
make  the  matter  worse,  they  refused  to  deliver  up 

146 


A CRITICAL  MOMENT 


the  plane-table,  which  had  been  brought  along,  and 
which  was  now  in  their  possession.  Unarmed  as 
we  were  the  situation  began  to  look  rather  ugly, 
so  in  order  to  prevent  any  further  annoyance  the 
canoe  was  pushed  into  the  river  and  we  prepared  to 
get  back  as  best  we  could.  This  action  turned  the 
scale,  and  showed  them  that  we  were  determined  to 
depart  at  all  costs.  As  they  knew  that  they  would 
get  into  trouble  in  the  event  of  disaster  overtaking  us, 
an  old  man  and  woman  stepped  in,  and  with  their  aid 
Tuaba  camp  was  readied  by  nightfall. 

The  conduct  of  the  natives  on  this  occasion  was  as 
strange  as  it  was  annoying,  and  I should  have  liked 
to  know  what  their  game  really  was.  It  is  hard  to 
believe  that  desire  for  our  company  was  the  sole  reason 
for  this  obstructive  behaviour,  particularly  as  we  had 
no  trade  goods  in  the  canoe,  and  I wonder  whether  the 
fact  that  the  Tuaba  camp  contained  plenty  of  valuable 
stores  under  the  guard  of  only  one  man  may  not  have 
had  something  to  do  with  their  refusal.  At  any  rate, 
they  suffered  for  their  misbehaviour,  for  though  the 
old  man  and  woman  each  received  an  extra  good  knife 
in  payment,  the  others  got  nothing  when  they  arrived 
in  camp  on  the  following  morning.  They  seemed 
much  surprised  at  this  treatment,  but  solaced  them- 
selves with  the  thought  that  everything  would  come 
right  if  they  hurried  up  and  carried  well  as  far  as 
Parimau. 

The  inhabitants  of  Tuaba,  likewise,  decided  to 
join  our  party,  the  love  of  trading  and  desire  for 
gain  having  already  taken  a strong  hold  upon  them. 
Thirty  all  told,  not  including  dogs  and  pigs,  were  on 
the  move  within  half  an  hour,  and  looked  a hetero- 
geneous though  imposing  gathering  as  they  wound 

147 


EXPEDITIOUS  HOUSE  MOVING 

their  way  through  the  jungle.  Not  an  article  of 
furniture  or  raiment  was  left  behind.  So  frequently 
is  this  house  moving  practised  that  the  packing-up 
process  is  carried  out  with  great  speed  and  the  mini- 
mum of  fuss.  Certainly  the  amount  to  be  transported 
is  comparatively  small,  and  each  native  knows  exactly 
what  is  his  particular  branch  of  work — it  would  be 
more  correct  perhaps  to  say  the  women  know,  for  it 
is  they  who  carry  everything,  whilst  the  men  do  prac- 
tically nothing.  The  former  move  the  goods  outside 
the  huts,  pack  the  loads,  and,  when  on  the  line  of 
march,  carry  by  far  the  heaviest  burdens.  Apparently 
never  quite  satisfied  that  they  have  enough  to  carry, 
on  the  top  of  all  they  perch  the  smaller  children,  where 
they  cling  on  to  any  projecting  piece  of  baggage  or 
twist  their  fingers  tightly  into  the  fuzzy  hair  of  their 
mothers.  Close  behind  trot  the  girls  and  boys,  agile 
as  cats,  each  carrying  a load  suited  to  his  or  her 
strength.  The  men,  being  lords  of  everything  and 
having  power  to  say  who  shall  work  and  who  shall 
go  free,  carry  nothing  more  than  their  spears,  and 
maintain  that  the  arduous  duty  of  marking  the  trail 
and  keeping  an  eye  on  the  dogs  is  all  that  can  reason- 
ably be  expected  of  them. 

Uninteresting  though  this  journey  to  I bo  had  been 
in  itself,  it  was  sufficient  to  prove  that  the  beginnings 
of  the  longed-for  route  to  the  east  had  been  located 
at  last.  For  the  present,  however,  further  prospect- 
ing work  was  out  of  the  question,  as  with  the  fickle 
Papuan  the  only  means  of  transport,  distant  travel 
was  impossible. 

Weeks  passed  during  which  every  effort  was  made 
to  accumulate  stores  at  Parimau.  Until  at  least  a 
month’s  supplies  were  in  hand,  there  was  nothing  to 

148 


A ZOOLOGICAL  COLLECTION 


be  gained  by  interfering  with  the  convoys  of  food  and 
undertaking  small  local  expeditions  into  the  surround- 
ing country. 

In  the  meantime  Shortridge  and  the  Gurkhas  were 
working  hard  to  form  the  nucleus  of  the  zoological 
collection.  Between  them  they  discovered  several 
new  species  and  varieties  of  small  mammals,  but  con- 
sidering the  wide  area  covered  in  the  search  and  the 
number  of  traps  set  in  all  the  most  likely  places,  the 
results  were  disappointing,  to  be  accounted  for,  no 
doubt,  by  the  boggy  state  of  the  country  and  its 
unsuitability  to  mammal  life.  To  my  everlasting 
wonder,  the  capture  of  an  objectionable  rat  never 
failed  to  send  Shortridge  into  ecstasies  of  delight ; but 
then  he  is  a naturalist,  and  can  satisfy  his  enthusiasm 
by  measuring  the  length  of  the  hairs  of  its  coat  or 
noting  the  exact  tinge  of  colour,  while  my  ambition 
is  to  destroy  them  all  and  rid  the  world  of  a pest. 
The  mammals  are,  without  exception,  marsupials,  and 
the  like  are  not  to  be  found  all  the  world  over. 

The  birds,  on  the  other  hand,  are  of  absorbing 
interest,  and  in  no  other  part  of  the  world  can  so 
many  species  be  found,  so  varied  in  plumage  and  so 
striking  in  their  peculiarities.  Nature  seems  to  have 
specially  selected  the  dark  and  gloomy  forests  of  New 
Guinea,  an  impregnable  land  far  from  the  reach  of 
man,  as  the  place  in  which  to  experiment  in  the  most 
extravagant  combination  of  colours  and  in  new  forms 
of  bird  life.  Of  these  the  collectors  were  fortunate 
enough  to  discover  ten  new  species,  of  which  one 
of  the  most  striking  was  a Bower-bird,  obtained 
by  Shortridge  on  the  Wataikwa.  On  the  male  the 
feathers  are  long  and  loose,  those  on  the  head,  neck, 
and  half-way  down  the  back  of  brilliant  orange- 

149 


THE  BOWER-BIRD 

scarlet,  the  cape  at  times  being  brought  forward  as  a 
ruff  over  the  head,  the  rest  of  the  body  golden  yellow : 
a picture  of  the  most  vivid  colouring.  Bower-birds 
are  so  called  because  of  the  bowers  or  huts  the}7  con- 
struct for  nesting  purposes  in  a forest  clearing.  The 
huts  are  composed  of  moss,  and  are  of  elaborate  struc- 
ture, opening  in  front  on  to  a lawn  or  garden,  the 
whole  laid  out  with  great  exactness  and  scrupulous 
care,  and  decked  with  brilliant  leaves,  flowers,  and 
berries.  On  this  dainty  lawn  the  male  bird  dances 
and  disports  himself  before  his  mate,  or  meets  other 
males  who  play  and  dance  together.  The  flowers  and 
berries  are  grouped  or  placed  in  lines,  according  to 
their  colours,  and  are  renewed  as  soon  as  they  fade. 

Another  species  of  exceptional  beauty  are  the 
Pittars.  They  like  to  keep  to  the  ground,  and  only 
take  to  flight  on  the  rarest  occasions.  In  shape  and 
colouring  there  is  a radical  difference  between  them 
and  other  birds,  but  for  pure  beauty,  with  their  bril- 
liant and  variegated  plumage  of  black,  chestnut,  blue, 
and  scarlet,  they  can  easily  hold  their  own. 

Of  the  birds  of  paradise,  the  Kings  are  by  far  the 
most  common.  And  what  a glorious  little  gem  he  is, 
with  his  glittering  scarlet  head  and  back,  his  carmine 
throat  edged  with  metallic  green,  two  grey  fans  spring- 
ing from  his  chest  likewise  tipped  with  green  and 
spreading  out  on  either  side,  the  under-parts  of  snowy 
whiteness  and  writh  tail  feathers  of  orange-red,  the  tvro 
centre  ones  of  which  are  of  great  length,  having  at 
the  tips  a curled  disc  of  golden  green.  How7  lovely  he 
looks  w'hen  dancing  before  his  mate,  when  the  breast 
and  fan-like  feathers  are  spread  so  as  to  form  a shield  in 
front,  the  scarlet  feathers  fluffed  out,  and  the  metallic 
discs  of  the  tw'o  tail  feathers  waving  above  his  head. 

150 


BIRDS  OF  PARADISE 

Some  consider  his  colours  too  vivid,  and  prefer  the  Rifle- 
bird,  with  his  curved  beak,  velvety  black  coat,  and 
gorgeous  breast  of  plates  of  metallic  blue-green.  The 
noise  this  bird  makes  when  in  flight  is  as  of  the  rustling 
of  hundreds  of  sheets  of  paper  violently  shaken. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  expedition  a new  form  of 
the  Six-plumed  Paradise  Bird  was  obtained  from  the 
Iwaka  River,  a wonderfully  decorated  bird  with  the 
crown  of  old  gold,  silvery  white  and  brown,  and  on 
the  occiput  a patch  of  stiff  metal-like  feathers,  golden- 
green  bordered  with  violet.  On  either  side  of  the 
eye  there  spring  three  long  plumes  on  bare  shafts,  a 
striking  peculiarity. 

Then  there  is  the  Twelve- wired  Bird  of  Paradise 
with  back  and  neck  plumage  of  dark  brown  plush, 
wings  of  deep  violet,  and  breast  feathers  edged  with 
emerald  green.  On  the  sides  are  long  ornamental 
plumes  of  bright  yellow,  and  the  rest  of  the  under 
parts  of  the  same  colour.  Add  to  the  list  the  wonderful 
Magnificent,  Greater,  and  others,  and  nothing  in  the 
world  can  be  found  to  equal  the  splendour  and  variety 
of  the  birds  of  New  Guinea. 

Many  other  varieties  are  just  as  beautiful  in  their 
way,  the  Sun-birds,  Honey-eaters,  Fly-catchers  and 
Flower-peckers.  The  Manucodes,  with  their  sombre- 
coloured  but  glittering  feathers,  form  the  link  between 
the  birds  of  paradise  and  the  true  crows,  and  are 
peculiar  in  that  the  trachea  is  convoluted  into  as  many 
as  twelve  coils. 

Lovely  creatures  in  a hideous  country. 

Although  so  pleasing  to  the  eye,  they  are  singularly 
deficient  in  song,  the  paradise  birds  venting  their 
feelings  in  piercing  unmusical  notes,  and  most  of 
the  remainder  in  twitterings.  It  struck  me  as  so 

151 


ARRIVAL  OF  FRESH  COOLIES 

peculiar  that  in  this  dark  and  dreary  land,  where  hardly 
a speck  of  colour  is  to  be  found  in  a day’s  march,  the 
birds  should  have  been  adorned  by  Nature  in  a very  riot 
of  colour. 

In  April,  three  and  a half  months  after  landing,  forty- 
five  coolies  arrived,  recruited  for  the  most  part  in  the 
islands  of  Banda,  Buton,  and  Amboina ; these  were  at 
once  put  on  to  the  work  of  transporting  food-supplies 
up  the  river  to  our  advanced  base  at  Parimau.  On  the 
whole  they  were  of  a superior  stamp  to  those  previously 
engaged,  but  it  is  a task  beyond  any  man’s  power  to  select 
suitable  carriers  from  such  a weedy  and  anaemic  race. 

Horribly  wearisome  were  the  six  days  of  steady, 
monotonous  labour  required  to  cover  the  short  distance 
of  thirty-seven  miles  which  lay  between  Wakatimi  and 
Parimau,  and  on  Marshall's  and  Wollaston’s  shoulders 
fell  the  brunt  of  this  work.  Even  after  the  arrival  of 
the  new  coolies,  and  despite  the  energy  and  perseverance 
displayed  by  all  hands,  the  depressing  fact  soon  became 
evident  that  arrangements  on  a still  larger  scale  would 
be  necessary  in  order  to  accumulate  a sufficient  reserve 
of  supplies  at  the  up-river  camp.  As  the  result  of  three 
months’  labour  we  had  merely  a surplus  of  ten  bags  of 
rice  and  a few  of  our  own  personal  effects. 

With  the  exception  of  a couple  of  days’  work  during 
the  first  journey,  the  natives  of  Wakatimi  never  again 
gave  us  the  slightest  assistance,  and  so  little  did  they 
relish  the  idea  of  any  form  of  manual  labour  that  on  the 
days  when  the  canoes  were  being  loaded  they  would 
desert  the  village,  and  keep  out  of  sight  until  the  last 
convoy  was  under  way,  and  there  was  no  longer  any 
danger  of  their  being  impressed  for  the  work.  Keen  as 
they  were  to  obtain  cloth,  they  could  not  summon  up 
sufficient  energy  or  determination  to  face  a few  days 

152 


POLING  AND  PADDLING 


canoe  paddling  up  the  Mimika  River.  At  first  we 
ascribed  this  aversion  solely  to  laziness,  but,  as  we  got 
to  know  them  better,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
was  as  much  due  to  their  unwillingness  to  cross  the 
boundary  line  between  the  up-  and  down-river  tribes  as 
to  their  natural  sloth. 

It  was  not  long  before  our  own  coolies,  who  when 
first  imported  were  quite  ignorant  of  any  form  of  canoe 
work,  realised  that  it  was  necessary  to  master  the  rudi- 
ments of  paddling  and  to  work  with  a will  in  order  to 
obviate  the  unpleasantness  of  having  their  evening  meals 
postponed  till  after  nightfall,  and  their  tents  pitched  in 
torrents  of  rain.  Unlike  the  Papuans  they  preferred  to 
paddle  in  the  sitting  position,  thereby  losing  driving 
power  but  gaining  stability.  Practice  makes  perfect,  and 
after  two  or  three  journeys  the  more  willing  ones  were 
as  good  with  their  paddles  as  any  man  could  wish  to  find. 
Poling  the  boats,  however,  was  quite  another  matter,  and 
though  all  took  their  turn  but  few  became  proficient. 

The  intermediate  camping  grounds  were  fixed  so 
that  a stage  necessitated  six  or  seven  hours  steady  work  ; 
this  distance  proving  to  be  as  much  as  the  coolies  could 
accomplish  in  such  a damp,  steamy  climate.  The  day’s 
journey  invariably  ended  in  drenching  rain,  with  the 
added  joys  of  a sodden  camp  and  smoky  fires,  and 
rarely,  indeed,  did  fortune  favour  us  sufficiently  to  allow 
of  a dry  resting-place  and  comfortable  bed. 

Accustomed  as  they  were  to  the  slothful  life  led  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  East  Indian  Islands,  this  heavy 
work  and  the  attendant  discomforts  soon  told  on  the 
health  of  the  less  robust  coolies.  Fever  broke  out,  and 
together  with  sunstroke  and  boils,  was  soon  responsible 
for  passing  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  the  force  into  the 
hospital  which  had  been  erected  at  Wakatimi.  The 

153 


TRADE  ARTICLES 


work  of  doctoring  these  men,  as  well  as  the  sick  amongst 
the  Javanese  escort  and  convicts,  was  one  of  Wollaston’s 
duties.  The  Javanese  at  Wakatimi  suffered  even  more 
than  our  own  men,  which  would  lead  one  to  think  that 
the  Amboinese  are  the  sturdier  race  of  the  tw’o ; the 
excessive  amount  of  sickness  at  the  base  camp  may, 
however,  have  been  partly  due  to  the  lack  of  good  drink- 
ing water — the  river  here  being  tidal,  and  the  camp 
refuse  swept  backwards  and  forwards  with  every  tide. 

Had  the  Wakatimi  natives  been  willing  to  assist  in 
the  paddling  of  our  canoes,  what  stores  of  wealth  they 
might  have  accumulated ! Anything  and  everything 
they  desired  might  have  been  theirs  for  the  asking,  whilst 
our  overworked  coolies  would  have  been  available  for 
work  at  the  head  of  the  river,  and  in  a position  to  tran- 
sport the  stores  along  the  forest  paths  from  Parimau. 

Nearly  all  the  trade  articles  were  just  what  the 
savages  wanted,  but  several  of  the  things,  though 
popular  in  other  parts  of  New  Guinea,  found  no  favour 
in  the  sight  of  the  people  of  this  district.  Jews’  harps, 
for  instance,  were  scorned,  and  the  men  and  women 
would  barely  accept  them  as  a gift,  the  few  disposed  of 
being  utilised  as  earrings.  Looking-glasses  were  also 
not  appreciated.  It  was  not  that  the  men  did  not  want 
to  have  a look  at  themselves,  but  that  they  did  not 
seem  to  want  to  do  it  more  than  once.  I would  be  the 
last  to  suggest  that  they  were  deficient  in  looks,  or  that 
vanity  went  for  nothing  with  them,  but  however  little 
pleasure  they  themselves  received  from  the  experiment, 
it  was  to  us  a never-failing  source  of  amusement.  The 
candidate  in  the  beauty  competition,  for  such  it  seemed 
to  be  when  an  expectant  crowd  had  collected  round, 
settled  himself  on  his  haunches,  and  when  comfortable, 
confidently  raised  the  glass  before  his  eyes.  This  invari- 

154 


TRADE  ARTICLES 

ably  led  to  the  development  of  a broad  smile — the  first 
impression  was  good.  But  the  longer  he  looked  and  the 
more  carefully  he  examined  himself  in  detail  the  more 
disappointed  he  became.  The  smile  vanished,  giving 
place  to  a look  of  surprise,  and  then,  as  the  defects  of 
hair,  eyes,  and  nose  became  impressed  on  his  mind,  the 
confident  air  changed  to  one  of  disapproval.  With  a sigh 
the  glass  would  be  passed  to  the  next  competitor,  who 
would  be  fidgeting  in  rear,  eagerly  awaiting  his  turn. 

Beads,  particularly  large  blue  ones,  were  in  great 
demand  and  readily  bartered,  but  towards  the  end  of 
our  stay  became  a drug  in  the  market ; they  at  no  time 
approached  in  value  some  ancient  ones,  oval  in  shape 
and  light  blue  in  colour,  already  in  their  possession 
before  we  arrived,  and  which  had  probably  been  im- 
ported from  the  Aru  Islands. 

To  be  the  possessor  of  a steel  axe-head  is  the  native’s 
highest  ambition,  but  when  he  has  obtained  his  wish  it 
need  not  be  expected  that  any  further  work  will  be  got 
out  of  him,  and  for  this  reason  they  were  but  sparingly 
issued  until  towards  the  close  of  the  expedition.  An 
axe-head  is  a good  thing  to  give  in  exchange  for  a canoe, 
or  in  payment  of  a prolonged  period  of  work,  but  is  too 
much  to  give  for  anything  less.  Knives  also  are  much 
sought  after,  but  the  same  thing  applies  to  them  as  to 
axe-heads.  No  one  wants  to  possess  a dozen  knives,  so 
why  do  unpleasant  work  to  gain  more  than  is  required. 
Empty  tins,  jam  jars,  and  bottles  are  good  articles  of 
exchange,  particularly  kerosene  oil  cans  ; these  latter  are 
valued  as  forming  a dry  portable  safe  in  which  to  store 
the  family  treasures.  The  very  old  and  dilapidated  tins 
are  used  to  boil  water  in,  and  were  considered  a great 
improvement  on  the  hollow  bamboos  or  cocoanut  shells 
which,  until  we  arrived,  were  the  largest  receptacles 

155 


TRADE  ARTICLES 


used  for  this  purpose.  In  the  Mimika  district  many 
hundreds  of  these  kerosene  tins  must  have  been  accumu- 
lated by  the  savages,  sufficient  to  make  the  present 
generation  happy  for  years  to  come.  Salt,  a good  trading 
medium  in  other  parts,  is  here  useless,  as  the  people 
have  a particular  dislike  to  the  taste.  On  this  account 
they  refused,  even  when  suffering  from  hunger,  to  touch 
our  dried  and  salted  fish. 

There  is  one  thing,  however,  which  the  Mimika 
native  never  tires  of  and  will  hoard  to  his  dying  day,  and 
that  is  cloth.  Quality,  colour,  condition,  and  shape  are 
matters  of  little  import : as  long  as  it  is  cloth,  that 
suffices.  Most  of  it  vanishes  into  the  aforementioned 
tin  family  chest,  but  quite  a quantity  is  utilised  as  wear- 
ing apparel.  A Papuan  clothed  in  a vest  full  of  holes, 
a torn  and  dirty  old  coat,  or  a shapeless  cloth  cap  is  not 
a pleasant  sight,  but  is  generally  a proud  and  happy  man. 

The  natives  of  Parimau  quite  appreciated  the  im- 
portance to  them  of  making  a corner  in  cloth,  and  did 
their  best  to  control  the  market.  On  the  arrival  of 
visitors  with  articles  for  sale  they  would  hurry  over  and 
tell  us  to  pay  for  anything  we  might  want  in  tins,  bottles, 
or  beads,  but  on  no  account  to  give  cotton  goods. 
Having  thus  arranged  affairs  to  their  satisfaction  they 
would  escort  the  strangers  to  our  camp.  If  we  offered 
some  rubbish,  such  as  an  old  tin  in  exchange  for  a bunch 
of  bananas — which  the  Parimau  men  would  not  have 
sold  under  the  price  of  a knife — they  would  exclaim 
with  much  enthusiasm,  “ Good,  good  ! ” “ Take  it!”  and 
would  congratulate  their  friends  on  the  excellence  of 
the  bargain  made.  Still,  greatly  to  the  disgust  of  our 
neighbours,  we  generally  insisted  on  paying  cloth  to 
strangers  who  brought  fruit,  if  only  to  encourage  them 
to  come  again  with  further  supplies. 

156 


CHAPTER  XI 


A village  brawl — Cooled  ardour — A pig  festival — Highway  robbery — Resti- 
tution— Theft — Dishonoured  notes — Wife  beating — Our  steam-launch 
— A transformation — The  Dreadnought 

FIGHTS  and  festivals,  but  more  often  the  former, 
in  the  village  of  Parimau  helped  to  while  away  the 
time  and  add  variety  to  our  rather  monotonous  exist- 
ence. Occasionally  the  fights  were  on  a large  scale  and 
affected  the  entire  community  ; at  other  times  they  were 
restricted  to  families  or  even  individuals. 

One  morning,  towards  the  latter  end  of  April,  we 
were  awakened  by  a din  sufficient  to  rouse  the  dead, 
and  found  men  hurrying  up  and  down  the  village 
street  shouting  and  gesticulating  wildly,  in  a fever 
of  excitement.  The  quarrel  ended  in  the  usual  manner 
by  the  able-bodied  men  rushing  to  arms  and  indis- 
criminately attacking  one  another.  Several  of  them 
appeared  to  join  in  just  for  the  sake  of  the  fun,  adding 
fuel  to  the  fire  and  affording  additional  amusement  to 
us.  Whilst  the  main  fight  was  going  merrily  on,  these, 
starting  on  the  outside  of  the  crowd,  would  set  to  work 
to  carve  a way  through  with  their  clubs,  and  as  soon  as 
they  had  reached  the  other  side,  would  turn  about  and 
start  afresh.  This  horseplay  was  not  resented  by  the 
remaining  combatants,  who  were  perhaps  too  engrossed 
in  their  own  personal  quarrel  to  pay  any  attention  to 
this  outside  distraction.  The  peacemakers,  of  whom 
many  were  women,  at  length  brought  the  fight  to  a close, 
but  not  before  several  severe  wounds  had  been  given 

157 


A VILLAGE  BRAWL 


and  received.  Two  brothers  strongly  resented  this 
truce ; they  were  out  for  a fight  and  some  excitement, 
and  did  their  best  to  keep  it  up,  going  from  house  to 
house  and  challenging  any  and  all  to  combat.  It  was 
difficult  to  make  out  what  all  the  trouble  was  about, 
hut  it  seemed  that  a woman  was  at  the  bottom  of  it, 
and  as  she  could  not  be  found,  it  was  then  and  there 
determined  that  the  entire  population  should  set  out 
for  Ibo,  seize  her  by  main  force  if  found,  and,  as  they 
explained  by  graphic  actions,  cut  her  throat. 

All  were  full  of  ardour,  and  preparations  were  at 
once  made  to  put  the  plan  into  execution.  Whilst  the 
women  were  packing  the  sago  bags  and  other  impedi- 
menta the  men  decorated  themselves  with  plumes  and 
got  together  their  spears,  bows  and  arrows,  stone  clubs, 
and  in  fact  anything  which  might  come  in  handy  as  a 
weapon.  No  doubt  for  our  edification  they  did  not 
neglect  to  ostentatiously  sharpen  their  trade  knives. 
Soon  all  was  ready,  the  signal  was  given  for  the 
advance,  and  the  march  began  with  the  more  blood- 
thirsty savages  in  the  van,  whilst  the  laggards  followed 
in  a long  straggling  line.  The  preparations,  however, 
had  taken  some  time  to  complete,  and  as  the  desire  for 
vengeance,  at  first  so  overpowering,  began  to  cool, 
the  more  timid  and  peaceably  inclined  fell  farther 
to  the  rear. 

Some  sat  down  to  discuss  the  situation  ; others  re- 
turned to  search  for  mythical  or  mislaid  articles,  until 
at  last  the  leaders,  obliged  to  stop  and  see  what 
detained  the  remainder,  themselves  sat  down  to  in- 
vestigate the  delay  and  discuss  the  matter  afresh. 
More  talking  and  more  quarrelling  ensued,  until  it  was 
finally  decided  that  the  great  attack  should  be  post- 
poned till  the  morrow.  Fickle  creatures ! When 

158 


COOLED  ARDOUR 


morning  dawned  the  whole  affair  had  been  forgotten, 
or  was  not  considered  of  sufficient  importance  to  justify 
further  action ; no  warlike  preparations  were  made,  and 
the  women  went  as  usual  to  their  sago  swamp,  whilst 
the  men  returned  to  their  peaceful  pursuit  of  canoe 
building. 

Instead  of  the  bloodthirsty  raid  which  they  had 
contemplated  making  upon  their  eastern  neighbours, 
they  were,  on  the  following  day,  themselves  peacefully 
invaded  by  the  very  men  whom  they  had  intended  to 
attack.  Had  we  not  witnessed  both  events,  it  would 
have  been  hard  to  believe  that  such  violent  anger 
and  thirst  for  revenge  could  have  evaporated  in  so 
short  a time. 

The  new-comers,  received  with  open  arms  and 
treated  as  old  and  trusted  friends,  were  soon  housed, 
and  as  they  brought  a full-grown  pig  and  plenty  of 
food,  were  made  doubly  welcome.  They  proved  to  be 
the  forerunners  of  a considerable  influx  from  the  villages 
lying  to  the  east,  and  as  the  numbers  grew  it  became 
evident  that  an  event  of  great  importance  was  about  to 
take  place.  The  housing  accommodation  was  strained 
to  the  utmost,  so  much  so  that  the  new  dancing  hall 
had  to  be  appropriated  as  a sleeping  room,  providing 
shelter  to  over  thirty  families. 

An  air  of  suppressed  excitement  pervaded  all,  and 
even  the  two  village  boars,  who,  sad  to  relate,  were 
destined  to  play  an  important  part  in  the  proceedings 
later  on,  were  galvanised  into  unwonted  activity  by  the 
noise  and  the  unusual  number  of  full  sago  dishes  placed 
before  them. 

For  two  days  the  music  of  the  tom-toms  was 
incessant,  and  culminated  in  an  outburst  of  dancing 
and  singing  on  the  evening  of  the  3rd  of  May.  At 

159 


THE  PIG  FESTIVAL 


midnight  the  dancing  ceased  and  the  women  retired, 
but  the  deep-toned  note  of  the  drum  continued,  each 
beat  being  followed  by  a howl  from  the  men  until  the 
sun  rose  over  the  trees  to  the  east.  At  an  early  hour  a 
native  appeared  in  our  camp  with  the  request  that  we 
should  come  over  and  see  the  show.  As  we  approached 
children  carrying  drums  were  already  marching  down 
the  beach,  and  there,  taking  up  a position  at  the  far 
end,  started  an  orchestra  of  their  own.  Close  behind 
came  the  two  boars,  driven  into  the  jungle  by  weeping 
women,  and  thence  by  a hidden  path  back  into  one  of 
the  huts.  As  soon  as  the  animals  were  safely  housed 
the  men  formed  themselves  into  a three-sided  square, 
the  flanks  of  which  consisted  of  those  armed  with 
feathered  spears  and  paddles,  whilst  the  end  was  closed 
by  the  orchestra.  Behind  the  musicians  were  grouped 
the  women  and  children. 

Chanting  loudly  the  square  advanced,  being  ha- 
rangued at  intervals  by  the  headman  of  the  village, 
who,  when  he  had  worked  himself  up  to  the  proper 
pitch  of  excitement,  terminated  the  scene  by  discharg- 
ing two  arrows  over  the  tree  tops — an  action  loudly 
acclaimed  by  the  audience.  A general  move  was  then 
made  to  the  village,  where  Marshall  and  I were  given 
the  position  of  honour  close  to  a sloping  platform  which 
had  been  erected  during  the  hours  of  the  night. 

After  a short  pause  the  men,  armed  with  large 
rattan  nooses,  placed  themselves  on  either  side  of  the 
hut  within  which  the  pigs  were  confined,  and  at  a 
given  signal  the  animals  were  driven  forth,  successfully 
overpowered  and  trussed,  their  snouts  tightly  bound 
and  chalk  thrown  into  their  faces  and  eyes.  With  a 
man  seated  astride  each  animal,  and  to  the  accom- 
paniment of  loud  wails  from  the  women,  they  were 

160 


The  carcases  having  been  removed,  the  men  give  themselves  over  to  Women  crying  over  the  carcases  and  clasping  them  in  their  grief, 

unrestrained  wailing  and  lamentation. 


THE  PIG  FESTIVAL 


lifted  shoulder-high,  carried  to  the  place  of  slaughter, 
and  lashed  to  the  platform. 

The  executioners  with  their  clubs  took  up  posi- 
tion, whilst  the  audience,  numbering  some  two  hun- 
dred souls,  crowded  closely  around,  and  as  the  rain 
of  blows  fell,  drowned  the  squeals  of  the  victims  by 
yells  and  the  beating  of  drums.  Death  must  have  been 
instantaneous,  but  the  basting  continued  until  the  car- 
cases had  ceased  to  quiver,  when  for  quite  five  minutes 
the  entire  audience  gave  itself  up  to  unrestrained  wail- 
ing and  gnashing  of  teeth ; the  women  hugging  and 
clasping  the  carcases  in  their  unnatural  grief,  whilst  the 
air  rang  with  shrieks  and  tears  coursed  down  every  cheek. 

Gradually  the  sounds  of  lamentation  decreased  in 
volume,  only  to  break  out  with  renewed  violence  as  a 
three-year  old  child,  painted  from  head  to  foot  in  a 
bright  red  pigment,  was  brought  forth  from  a hut, 
lifted  shoulder-high  and  carried  to  the  now  empty 
platform.  In  a flash  the  same  thought  passed  through 
our  minds ; the  boy  was  to  be  sacrificed  ! As  the  pigs 
had  died  so  would  he  die ! Slaughtered  to  make  a 
savage  holiday,  or  to  fulfil  some  barbaric  rite ; and  we 
were  to  stand  by  and  watch  it !— but  no,  not  if  we 
could  prevent  it.  One  hurried  whisper,  cameras  were 
closed,  and  we  were  ready  for  action.  What  we  would 
have  done  I hardly  know,  but  fortunately  active  inter- 
cession was  delayed  until  a more  definite  and  critical 
stage  in  the  proceedings  should  arrive.  Foolish  indeed 
should  we  have  looked  had  we  dramatically  interfered 
at  that  moment,  driven  the  crowd  away  and  seized  the 
child.  As  it  turned  out,  no  such  barbaric  practice  as 
the  sacrifice  of  an  innocent  child  was  contemplated. 
Far  from  killing  the  boy,  all  that  was  done  was  to  carry 
him  in  triumph  round  the  platform  and  then  back  into 

161  I. 


THE  PIG  FESTIVAL 


the  hut.  It  was  but  the  final  stage  of  a ceremony  of 
initiation  into  boyhood,  and  from  what  we  could  learn 
had  some  connection  with  the  piercing  of  the  ears  ; a very 
different  business  to  what  we  had  expected ! Marshall 
and  I glanced  foolishly  at  one  another,  and  smiled  as 
we  realised  how  near  we  had  been  to  making  ourselves 
ridiculous. 

The  ceremony  continued.  The  dead  pigs  were  now 
placed  side  by  side  in  the  village  square,  and  the  men 
took  it  in  turn  to  leap  over  them  and  administer  blows 
with  heavy  clubs  as  they  passed.  Twice  was  this 
repeated,  and  then,  seizing  the  carcases,  the  whole 
party  jumped  into  the  river.  A general  washing  and 
cleaning  up  followed,  after  which  the  pigs,  their  legs 
lashed  together,  were  carried  solemnly  towards  the  shore. 
The  mob  having  been  again  harangued  by  the  headman, 
the  carcases  were  cut  up  and  the  meat  distributed. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  was  given  up  to  general 
jollification  and  good-natured  horse-play  in  which  the 
women  had  a particularly  good  time  of  it ; for  once 
in  a way  they  had  the  right  to  beat  and  cane  the  men 
to  their  hearts’  content,  and  pay  off  old  scores.  The 
men  were  not  allowed  to  retaliate,  and  if  they  wished 
to  escape  chastisement  had  to  seek  refuge  in  the  jungle 
or  in  the  deeper  pools  of  the  river.  Little  anger  was 
shown,  and  everything  was  taken  in  good  part ; the 
entire  population  was  out  for  a day’s  amusement  and 
made  the  most  of  it.  The  damsels  were  as  bold  as 
brass,  and  generally  devoted  their  attentions  to  the 
best-looking  young  men,  and  that  may  account  for  the 
fact  that  they  flocked  over  to  our  camp  and  attacked 
us  in  our  stronghold.  Here  they  thoroughly  enjoyed 
themselves,  until  at  last  we  rounded  on  them  and  gave 
chase  in  turn,  administering  corporal  punishment  to 

162 


HIGHWAY  ROBBERY 

the  captured,  an  operation  they  seemed  to  like,  and  to 
which  they  surrendered  themselves  without  one  genuine 
struggle.  Seeing  them  thus  harmlessly  at  play,  it  was 
hard  to  realise  that  these  same  people  on  the  slightest 
provocation  become  very  demons  of  fury  with  passions 
utterly  beyond  control. 

The  day  of  festival,  however,  was  to  end  with  an 
incident,  all  the  more  unpleasant  after  the  previous 
rejoicings  and  good-fellowship.  Cramer  with  six 
canoes  appeared  round  the  bend  of  the  river.  As  a 
rule  the  arrival  of  a convoy  from  below  set  the  village 
in  a state  of  excitement,  the  men  rushing  down  to 
greet  the  new-comers  and  assist  in  unloading  the  stores, 
much  of  which  they  knew  would  finally  come  into  their 
hands.  On  this  occasion  not  a man  moved,  and  the 
sounds  of  revelry  suddenly  ceased.  We  did  not  have 
to  wait  long  for  an  explanation.  Cramer  brought  the 
unpleasant  news  that  our  coolies,  when  returning  from 
Parimau  the  previous  week,  had  been  robbed  of  much 
of  their  clothing  at  a point  on  the  river  not  two  miles 
below  the  camp,  and  that  the  people  of  Parimau  had 
been  recognised  as  the  culprits. 

We  had  noticed  that  the  natives  were  rather  trucu- 
lent when  the  convoy  started  on  that  morning,  and,  as 
a precautionary  measure,  had  supplied  the  overseer 
with  a gun  so  that  he  might  not  be  defenceless  in  case 
of  emergency.  In  spite  of  this  his  heart  failed  him, 
and  his  twenty  followers  proved  equally  poor  spirited, 
for  when  five  unarmed  savages  met  them  and  demanded 
their  clothing,  not  one  of  them  was  man  enough  to 
offer  the  slightest  resistance.  What  astonished  us  most 
was  the  cool  impudence  of  the  whole  proceeding,  for 
though  the  natives  must  have  known  that  we  would 
hear  of  the  assault  sooner  or  later,  they  had  been 

163 


RESTITUTION 

behaving  since  the  episode  took  place  in  the  most  open 
and  unconcerned  manner. 

Late  as  it  was,  it  was  necessary  to  inquire  into  the 
affair  at  once,  and  that  the  savages  quite  anticipated 
some  forcible  action  on  our  part  was  shown  when 
Marshall  and  I stepped  into  the  canoe.  The  whole 
village  was  seized  with  panic,  and  within  three  minutes, 
and  before  we  could  reach  the  nearest  huts,  had  cleared, 
bag  and  baggage,  into  the  forest.  The  difficulty  was 
how  to  get  at  the  criminals.  They  and  their  friends 
could  be  heard  skulking  in  the  jungle  close  at  hand,  but 
it  was  a considerable  time  before  we  could  see  them  and 
get  an  answer  to  our  hails,  for  to  have  bearded  them 
in  the  dense  undergrowth  would  have  been  courting 
disaster.  Finally  a man,  better  known  to  us  than  the 
rest,  peered  from  the  cover  of  a great  tree  behind  which 
he  had  taken  refuge.  To  him  we  addressed  ourselves, 
but  in  spite  of  the  most  persuasive  epithets  he  would 
neither  approach  nor  allow  anyone  else  to  do  so  until 
we  had  promised  to  retire  the  main  part  of  our  force 
across  the  river.  He  knew  very  well  what  we  were 
after,  and  of  his  own  accord  promised  to  return  the  stolen 
goods.  When  the  place  had  been  cleared  of  our  people, 
with  the  exception  of  Marshall  and  myself,  the  inhabi- 
tants began  to  trickle  back,  the  innocent  first,  then  the 
more  guihy.  Their  behaviour  was  extraordinary.  In- 
stead of  denying  all  knowledge  of  the  theft  they  owned 
up  at  once,  asking  whether  we  really  wanted  the  things 
back,  and  when  told  to  bring  them  immediately,  ex- 
pressed the  greatest  surprise,  and  without  more  ado  set 
about  collecting  the  goods.  These  had  been  distributed 
amongst  so  many  that  not  half  could  be  found,  though 
we  were  able  to  recover  several  blankets,  trousers, 
jerseys  and  knives.  I am  finally  convinced,  however, 

164 


RESTITUTION 

that  all  the  articles  that  could  be  traced  were  returned, 
for  the  Wania  people  (a  village  situated  three  days’ 
journey  to  the  east)  had  also  been  in  the  business,  and 
they  had  trekked  to  their  distant  homes  at  the  first  alarm. 
As  a result  of  this  unpleasant  occurrence  the  day  of 
jollity  was  transformed  into  one  of  gloom ; all  revelry 
ceased,  the  few  remaining  visitors  left  the  village,  and 
not  a whisper  broke  the  stillness  of  the  night. 

The  question  now  remained  as  to  how  the  delin- 
quents were  to  be  punished  for  their  treachery.  I 
think  the  course  we  eventually  decided  on  was  certainly 
the  most  politic,  and  likewise  the  most  effective  in  the 
long  run. 

The  inhabitants  were  collected,  and  clearly  told 
what  they  might  expect  in  the  way  of  reprisals  should 
anything  like  this  ever  occur  again : they  were  then 
dismissed  and  the  incident  wiped  out.  To  their  credit 
be  it  said,  the  forbearance  on  our  part  was  appreciated 
in  so  far  that  open  violence  was  never  again  repeated. 
The  lesson  was  taken  to  heart.  Though  we  had  some- 
times been  blamed  for  not  taking  more  drastic  steps  to 
punish  the  marauders,  such  as  burning  down  the  village, 
the  future  showed  that  our  action  was  the  correct  one 
under  the  circumstances.  Had  more  severe  measures 
been  adopted,  we  should  never  again  have  had  a chance 
of  employing  these  men  as  carriers,  and  the  expedi- 
tion would  have  collapsed.  Had  one  of  them  been 
shot  or  the  village  destroyed,  I feel  certain  that  the 
men  of  Parimau  would  have  deserted  for  good  and  all, 
and  that  never  another  load  would  have  been  carried. 
It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  shooting  of  two 
savages  at  'W akatimi  in  the  early  days  of  the  expedition, 
though  entirely  necessary  and  justifiable,  had  almost  led 
to  open  hostilities,  which  were  only  averted  by  one  of 

165 


THEFT 

the  enemy  coming  over  to  us  and  disclosing  the  fact 
that  the  people  were  stealthily  collecting  large  quanti- 
ties of  arrows  in  the  vicinity.  This  had  enabled  Cramer 
to  make  such  effective  preparations  for  defence  that  the 
attackers  became  aware  that  their  intentions  were  no 
longer  a secret,  and  therefore  that  an  attempted  surprise 
would  have  no  chance  of  success. 

The  Mimika  Papuan  is  not  an  adept  thief,  carrying 
out  the  business  in  such  an  open  and  flagrant  manner 
that  immediate  detection  is  the  result.  He  will  appro- 
priate anything  left  lying  about  if  he  considers  it  of  any 
use  to  him,  and  if  he  picks  up  a fallen  article  on  the 
road  he  looks  upon  it  as  his  rightful  property. 

On  the  whole,  however,  we  lost  very  little,  and  what 
things  were  missed  from  the  cook  and  store  houses  can 
with  more  probability  be  put  down  to  the  account  of 
our  own  men,  as  every  native  in  the  East  Indies  is  an 
expert  in  the  burglar’s  art.  I imagine  there  is  little,  if 
any,  stealing  among  the  Papuans  themselves.  They 
seem  to  take  a pride  in  deceiving  one  by  deliberate 
lying,  and  when  detected  show  more  amusement  than 
shame  ; they  have  hardly  the  requisite  amount  of  brains 
ever  to  become  highly  successful  exponents  of  the  art. 
What  they  lacked  in  skill  they  made  up  for  in  cunning, 
and  one  little  affair  in  particular  showed  how  their 
minds  were  continually  working  to  get  the  better  of  us. 
Such  simplicity  can  hardly  be  believed  possible,  but  the 
most  remarkable  thing  to  their  minds  was  the  manner 
in  which  the  plot  was  detected.  It  happened  thus. 

As  we  had  no  system  of  runners,  we  found  it  con- 
venient to  give  notes  and  letters  to  be  delivered  by  the 
Papuans  who  were  returning  to  the  camps,  and  the 
effect  these  strips  of  paper  had  upon  the  savages  was 
the  cause  of  much  amusement,  for  it  was  quite  beyond 
the  comprehension  of  the  bearers  how  the  missives  could 

166 


DISHONOURED  NOTES 

convey  any  kind  of  information.  Later  on,  when  the 
notes  often  meant  the  reward  of  an  axe  or  a piece  of 
cloth  for  work  accomplished,  and  they  found  that  pay- 
ment was  made  immediately  the  paper  was  opened, 
they  became  highly  interested  and  hugged  their  pay- 
ment orders  as  if  they  were  bank  notes,  as,  in  fact,  to 
them,  they  were.  We  had  only  to  give  a man  a note 
and  say  that  it  represented  an  axe  or  whatever  the  pay- 
ment was  and  he  was  perfectly  satisfied.  As  they  were 
never  deceived  they  trusted  us  implicitly,  sometimes 
not  coming  up  for  payment  till  many  days  had  elapsed. 
This  prompt  exchange  on  the  presentation  of  a slip  of 
paper  awakened  their  cupidity,  and  set  their  cunning 
brains  to  work. 

If  one  piece  meant  the  gift  of  one  knife,  they 
reasoned,  then  why  not  hand  in  half  a dozen  slips  and 
receive  half  a dozen  knives.  No  sooner  was  the  simple 
plan  thought  of  than  it  was  put  into  practice. 

When,  shortly  afterwards,  Marshall  was  paying  a 
string  of  Papuans  according  to  what  was  written  on  each 
man’s  paper,  four  or  five  of  the  village  loafers  joined 
the  line,  and  with  a calm  and  confident  air  handed  in 
three  Lemco  labels  and  two  strips  of  the  wrapping. 
Great  was  the  indignation  and  loud  their  protestations 
at  the  unceremonious  way  in  which  their  papers  were 
treated,  but  there  was  not  a sign  of  embarrassment  or 
shame.  The  failure  upset  their  calculations  for  a time, 
but  they  were  quite  determined  to  have  another  try. 
How  we  could  have  told  the  difference  between  one 
paper  and  the  other  was  the  point  that  puzzled  them, 
and  so  they  put  their  heads  together,  and  the  reasons 
were  thoroughly  thrashed  out.  The  result  of  their 
deliberations  was  soon  evident. 

I had  sent  Wallaston  a note,  twisted  in  the  form  of 
a billet-doux,  requesting  him  to  pay  something  to  the 

167 


WIFE  BEATING 

carrier.  With  this  was  presented  a second  paper 
twisted  in  identically  the  same  manner,  and  purport- 
ing to  come  from  me.  Unfortunately,  however,  there 
was  nothing  written  inside.  In  spite  of  indignant  pro- 
testations and  declarations  that  it  meant  an  axe  head 
to  be  given  to  the  bearer,  this  great  coup  came  to 
nothing ; and  to  be  turned  out  of  camp  with  empty 
hands,  and  to  the  music  of  ribald  laughter,  was  heart- 
breaking. After  this  failure  nothing  more  was 
attempted  in  the  same  line — it  looked  so  simple  and 
yet  never  bore  fruit ; and  as  forgery  was  out  of  the 
question,  the  idea  of  obtaining  goods  by  this  means 
was  abandoned. 

What  with  profitless  attempts  to  cheat,  lying  which 
brought  no  ultimate  gain,  desertions  on  the  road  which 
forfeited  pay  already  earned,  and  lastly,  stolen  goods 
which  had  to  be  restored,  the  savages  at  length  began  to 
realise  that  it  was  better  to  be  fairly  honest  and  so  to  be 
punctually  rewarded,  than  to  be  permanently  debarred 
from  sharing  in  the  wealth  which  was  slowly  accumu- 
lating in  the  huts  of  the  steadier  men  of  the  village. 

As  their  worldly  goods  increased  the  ferocious 
brawls  diminished  in  frequency,  until  there  was  very 
little  in  the  behaviour  of  the  natives  of  which  we  could 
reasonably  complain.  It  takes  more  than  a few  months, 
however,  to  change  the  nature  of  a savage,  and  brutality 
was  by  no  means  uncommon  amongst  them.  One  day, 
for  instance,  I saw  a man  rush  at  a woman,  and  with 
one  blow  of  his  club  fell  her  to  the  ground.  Fortu- 
nately the  blow  was  a glancing  one,  merely  lacerating 
her  scalp  and  knocking  her  senseless.  But  although 
this  deed  was  done  in  the  midst  of  the  community,  and 
witnessed  by  many,  no  one  seemed  to  take  the  slightest 
notice,  until,  ten  minutes  later,  another  woman  crept 
up  to  attend  to  the  unfortunate  victim.  Ordinary 

168 


OUR  STEAM-LAUNCH 

wife-beatings  were  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  during 
the  still  hours  of  night  the  shrill  cries  of  a woman  in 
pain  often  reached  our  ears.  Still,  on  the  whole,  there 
was  a marked  improvement  in  the  general  behaviour  of 
the  community. 

These  remarks  apply  only  to  the  Parimau  and  up- 
river people,  for  the  Wakatimi  native  remained  to  the 
end  as  objectionable  as  he  was  in  the  beginning — in  fact 
he  rather  deteriorated.  In  his  case  increased  wealth 
meant  a more  slothful  life  and  greater  leisure  to  spend 
time  under  the  sugar-palms,  getting  drunk.  Even  the 
headman,  one  of  the  best  natives  there  and  a man  who 
had  been  of  great  assistance  to  us  when  we  first  entered 
the  country,  took  so  heavily  to  drink  that  he  succeeded 
in  killing  himself  before  we  left  the  country. 

In  May  I moved  back  to  Wakatimi,  to  take  my 
turn  at  the  never-ending  transport  work.  This  task  of 
trying  to  accumulate  stores  at  Parimau  appeared  hope- 
less with  simple  canoe  transport,  for  the  load  of  each 
convoy  was  eaten  up  before  the  next  supply  arrived, 
and  it  became  evident  that  unless  some  form  of 
mechanical  transport  could  be  obtained,  a definite  for- 
ward move  was  out  of  the  question.  We  had  already 
tried  the  experiment  of  working  with  a steam-launch, 
borrowed  from  one  of  the  relief  ships,  but  it  had  re- 
sulted in  failure.  The  engine  was  of  very  low  power, 
and  after  a slight  collision  with  a sunken  log  a mile 
from  the  start,  was  unable  to  make  any  headway 
against  the  current,  whilst  with  laden  canoes  in  tow 
she  actually  lost  ground.  No  shock  of  collision  had 
been  felt,  but  the  fact  of  the  shaft  being  bent  was  suffi- 
cient to  show  what  had  happened.  After  being  floated 
back  to  camp  she  lay  idle  for  a month,  and  was  even- 
tually returned  to  the  parent  ship. 

As  the  result  of  this  experience  the  relieving  ship 

169 


A TRANSFORMATION 

showed  no  eagerness  to  repeat  the  experiment,  and 
Goodfellow  decided  to  cross  to  Dobo  at  the  first  oppor- 
tunity to  see  if  it  was  possible  to  purchase  a motor  boat 
from  the  pearl  fishers.  Pending  the  arrival  of  this  boat, 
there  was  little  to  do  except  to  search  for  some  navi- 
gable creek  by  which  we  could  move  from  the  Mimika 
to  another  larger  and  more  navigable  river  to  the  east, 
a river  which  might  afford  an  easier  approach  to  the 
mountains,  and  still  enable  us  to  use  Wakatimi  camp 
as  a base  from  which  to  draw  supplies. 

How  Wakatimi  camp  had  changed  during  the  few 
months  I had  been  away  in  the  interior ! Where, 
before,  nothing  but  primeval  forest  was  to  be  seen, 
there  now  stretched  rows  of  neat,  roomy  huts  and 
fenced-in  gardens,  covering  an  area  of  three  or  four 
acres ; these  gardens  were  planted  with  all  manner  of 
Indian  corn,  bananas,  papayas,  chillies,  and  other  tropical 
produce,  systematically  arranged  and  divided  by  neat 
paths.  Immediately  behind  the  houses  lay  the  open 
drill  field  for  the  soldiers  of  the  escort,  and  beyond  this 
the  burial-ground — Stalker’s  grave  no  longer  the  only 
one  there.  Along  the  river  front  were  the  bathing  and 
washing  pools,  near  which  alligators,  and  now  and  again 
a shark,  would  suddenly  appear ; though  they  never 
did  any  harm,  their  occasional  appearance  lent  some 
excitement  to  the  soldiers’  monotonous  lives  and  sup- 
plied them  with  a topic  of  conversation. 

From  the  north  end  of  the  camp  a strong,  solid 
pier  now  stretched  far  into  the  river,  by  means  of 
which  boats  were  easily  and  expeditiously  unloaded. 

The  houses,  which  were  well  built  and  airy,  were  all 
of  the  same  type,  a framework  of  wood  being  covered 
with  pandanus  leaves  and  matting ; the  latter  article 
mostly  made  by  a few  industrious  natives  living  in  the 
small  village  of  Tourapaya,  just  north  of  the  camp. 

170 


THE  “DREADNOUGHT” 


Apart  from  the  fact  that  the  site  was  bad,  being 
nearly  flush  with  the  water,  no  camp  could  have  been 
better  laid  out,  and  the  manner  in  which  it  had  been 
planned  and  built  reflected  great  credit  upon  all  who 
were  engaged  in  the  work,  and  more  particularly  on 
Cramer.  The  position  itself  was  the  only  one  possible, 
for  there  was  no  elevated  ground  within  the  tidal  area. 
Had  a site  been  selected  farther  inland,  it  would  still 
have  been  liable  to  periodic  inundations,  and  on  account 
of  the  shallowness  of  the  river  would,  moreover,  have 
often  been  beyond  the  reach  of  any  launch  sent  by  the 
visiting  ship. 

This  low-lying,  swampy  plain,  which  extends  along 
the  coast  almost  from  end  to  end  of  Dutch  New  Guinea, 
is  a serious  drawback  to  successful  colonisation,  and  will 
constitute  an  almost  insurmountable  obstacle  to  the 
progress  and  civilisation  of  the  country. 

With  the  object  of  looking  for  this  inland  passage 
to  the  east,  I one  day  took  the  largest  canoe  and  four 
men,  and  proceeded  down  stream  to  Atabo,  the  fishing 
village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mimika.  It  was  unsatisfac- 
tory work,  for  though  the  men  of  Parimau  told  us  there 
was  such  a passage  they  could  not  show  us  the  way,  whilst 
the  men  of  the  coast  tribes  flatly  said  the  route  we  were 
looking  for  was  quite  imaginary.  For  the  journey  I 
used  the  Dreadnought,  an  immense  canoe,  originally 
purchased  by  Marshall.  So  great  was  her  beam  that  a 
small  camp  bedstead  could  have  been  opened  and  laid 
out  inside,  and  as  she  had  proved  far  too  heavy  for 
convoy  work  on  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Mimika,  she 
was  mainly  utilised  for  bringing  stores  from  the  coast 
to  Wakatimi,  particularly  when  the  ship’s  launch  was 
ready  to  lend  a hand  at  towing.  Tide  and  wind  being 
against  us  on  this  occasion,  it  took  the  whole  day  to 
reach  the  mouth  of  the  river,  only  four  and  a half 

171 


QUESTIONINGS 

miles  away  from  camp.  There,  indeed,  I was  lucky  to 
obtain  a view  of  the  mountains  entirely  free  from  cloud 
— a most  unusual  occurrence — and  was  enabled  to  fix 
the  position  of  the  snows  and  prominent  peaks  for  the 
survey.  The  outlook  was  grand  in  the  extreme ; the 
blue  mountains,  the  snowfields,  glaciers  and  pinnacles 
showing  up  clearly  above  the  dark  green  of  the  forest. 
How  beautiful  they  were ; but  how  distant ! Could 
we  ever  reach  them  by  the  road  we  were  following  ? 
Would  the  coolies  last  out  under  the  strain  ? If  so, 
would  they  be  able  to  climb  those  rugged  peaks  ? To 
these  and  many  other  questions  one’s  heart  regretfully 
answered  “No.”  “You  must  return,  reorganise,  and 
start  afresh  on  some  greater  river  to  the  east ! ” But 
was  this  possible  ? At  Wakatimi  a town  had  been  con- 
structed, and  in  it  were  piled  more  than  enough  stores 
to  load  a ship,  much  of  it  our  own,  but  the  greater  part 
belonging  to  the  Dutch  escort.  Could  we  ask  a gene- 
rous foreign  government  which  had  brought  us  here  at 
great  expense  to  take  us  back  and  despatch  the  whole 
expedition  afresh  in  another  direction  ? Was  there  a 
reasonable  chance  of  our  being  supplied  with  a suit- 
able class  of  coolie  ? Could  fresh  funds  be  raised,  good 
mechanical  transport  obtained,  new  food-stuffs  pur- 
chased, and  another  six  months  spent  in  reorganising  ? 
There  was  only  one  answer,  “ No  ! " It  was  too  much 
to  ask  or  to  expect.  For  better  or  for  worse  we  must 
carry  on  where  we  were,  making  up  our  minds  to 
struggle  on  eastward  through  the  forest  and  across  the 
foothills,  to  work  at  the  survey  and  at  the  collections, 
until  the  best  that  could  be  done  was  accomplished  and 
the  snows  approached  as  near  as  possible. 


172 


CHAPTER  XII 


The  village  of  Nimd — An  inundated  village — A timely  rescue — Barter  and 
exchange — Clubs— Strategy — Second  trip  up  the  Kaiqua 

HAVING  explored  two  or  three  creeks  and  found 
that  they  only  led  into  the  heart  of  the  man- 
grove swamps,  we  entered  a passage  directly  opposite 
to  the  night’s  camp,  and  by  far  the  largest  and  most 
promising  opening  as  yet  seen.  The  tide  was  running 
strongly  against  us,  and  with  only  four  paddles  at 
work  progress  was  very  slow,  when  suddenly  a canoe- 
load of  savages,  appearing  from  nowhere,  ranged  along- 
side, and  the  occupants  taking  it  for  granted  that  we 
required  their  services,  soon  had  the  old  Dreadnought. 
moving  through  the  water  at  an  undreamt-of  rate.  For 
two  miles  or  more  we  traversed  a channel  300  feet  wide, 
running  parallel  to  the  coast,  and  then,  turning  sharply 
to  the  south,  entered  an  overgrown  creek  which  had 
nothing  to  distinguish  it  from  hundreds  of  others  lying 
on  either  hand.  After  forcing  a way  for  half  an  hour 
through  a tangled  mass  of  branches,  we  unexpectedly 
entered  a landlocked  bay,  on  the  shores  of  which  is 
situated  the  village  of  NimC 

The  village  stretches  along  both  sides  of  the  bay,  and 
consists  of  several  hundreds  of  huts  which,  on  account 
of  the  limited  space  available,  are  built  so  close  together 
that  two  or  even  three  rows  are  required  to  house  the 
large  population. 

The  excitement  occasioned  by  our  sudden  arrival 
was  intense,  the  whole  population  at  once  taking  to  its 

173 


THE  VILLAGE  OF  NIMfi 

heels  and  fleeing  to  the  jungle.  Seeing,  however,  that  no 
other  canoes  accompanied  us,  the  savages  soon  plucked 
up  courage  and  returned  to  the  shore,  the  men  placing 
bunches  of  leaves  in  their  armlets,  and  the  women  cast- 
ing handfuls  of  sand  into  the  air  or  flinging  clouds  of 
powdered  chalk  out  of  hollow  bamboos,  in  order  to  make 
clear  their  peaceful  intentions.  Grounding  the  boat 
opposite  the  most  important  cluster  of  huts  where  the 
natives  were  collecting  in  large  numbers,  the  Gurkha 
Havildar,  Mehesur  Singh,  and  I stepped  ashore  and  were 
escorted  to  a shelter  of  leaves  beneath  which  the  head- 
men had  already  assembled  to  greet  the  stranger.  Here, 
after  much  solemn  handshaking,  I distributed  amongst 
the  Natus  (the  head  of  each  family)  some  tobacco, 
and  in  return  received  a native  cigarette  made  with 
great  care  by  the  oldest  man  present ; the  ice  having 
been  broken  by  means  of  these  courtesies,  an  animated 
conversation  was  begun,  the  Papuans  imparting  what 
news  they  thought  I desired,  and  I doing  my  best  to 
make  out  what  was  said,  both  sides  thoroughly  enjoy- 
ing themselves,  and  filling  up  an  amusing  half-hour. 
Question  them  as  I would,  little  of  value  was  learnt 
beyond  the  reiterated  statement  that  there  was  no  way 
eastwards  except  by  the  sea  route,  and  that  nothing  was 
to  be  gained  by  moving  further  up  the  river  Kaiqua,  or 
entering  any  of  the  creeks  close  at  hand.  The  cigar- 
ettes finished,  I was  shown  round  the  village,  accom- 
panied by  all  the  men  and  half  the  children,  and  sundry 
uncommonly  friendly  pigs.  This  inspection  over,  our 
next  care  was  to  find  a camping  ground.  Though  the 
natives  wanted  us  to  stay  in  their  midst,  we  did  not  relish 
the  proximity  of  the  overcrowded  village  and,  having 
already  seen  a secluded  and  sheltered  spot  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay,  I declined  their  well-meant  invitation. 

174 


AN  INUNDATED  VILLAGE 

A large  fleet  of  canoes  escorted  the  Dreadnought  to 
her  new  moorings,  and  many  willing  hands  made  light 
of  the  work  of  clearing  the  ground  on  which  we  were 
to  camp,  and  assisted  to  set  up  the  tents.  It  was  indeed 
fortunate,  as  it  turned  out,  that  we  had  this  sheltered 
site,  for  had  we  stayed  in  the  village  we  should  have 
suffered  as  much  if  not  more  than  many  of  the  unlucky 
natives  did  that  afternoon.  Assisted  by  a strong  south 
wind,  the  tide  rose  to  such  a height  that  the  waves 
poured  over  the  sandy  spit  on  which  the  huts  had 
been  built,  demolished  many  of  the  walls,  and  carried 
the  sandy  floors  into  the  creek  beyond.  Most  of  the 
upright  poles  even  were  washed  out  of  the  ground,  and 
with  them  fell  the  roofs.  The  wretched  people  took 
refuge  in  their  canoes,  but  were  compelled  to  stand  by 
and  witness  the  havoc  wrought  on  their  homes,  the 
surrounding  country  being  one  vast  mangrove  swamp 
without  a foot  of  land  being  visible  at  high  water. 
Such  events  must  be  of  common  occurrence,  and 
as  on  this  occasion  there  was  nothing  more  than  a 
strong  breeze,  when  a southerly  storm  bursts  I cannot 
understand  how  any  vestige  of  the  village  can  remain 
standing.  The  natives  of  Nime  do  not  follow  the 
fashion  of  most  other  coast  tribes  in  New  Guinea,  who 
erect  their  habitations  on  piles,  but  why  this  is  so  we 
could  not  discover.  I believe  I am  right  in  saying  that 
in  no  other  place  along  the  entire  coast  is  it  the  custom 
to  construct  huts  close  to  the  ground  ; sometimes  they 
are  built  on  piles  and  sometimes  in  trees,  but  always  in 
a position  safe  from  inundations. 

Whilst  watching  the  inrush  of  water  through  the 
narrow  entrance  to  the  bay,  a small  urchin,  splashing 
about  with  many  others,  was  carried  off  his  legs,  and 
before  any  of  the  other  boys  could  help  him,  was  whirled 

175 


A TIMELY  RESCUE 

out  into  the  race.  The  alarm  was  given  in  a moment. 
A crowd  of  women  raced  down  the  beach  and  tried  to 
intercept  him  by  forming  a string  of  hands,  but  he  was 
swept  past  them  in  a moment  and  out  into  the  midst 
of  the  tumbling  waters.  Like  all  coast  Papuans  he  was 
a fine  swimmer,  but  struggle  as  he  would,  he  could  do 
nothing  against  the  current,  his  one  thought  being  to 
keep  himself  afloat.  It  seemed  that  nothing  could  five 
in  the  turmoil  of  seething  water.  One  moment  he 
would  be  seen  to  spin  round  and  round,  the  next  to 
vanish,  and  after  a pause  to  come  to  the  surface  again 
like  a cork,  until  it  appeared  a marvel  how  any  breath 
could  be  left  in  the  small  body.  Each  time  he  vanished 
I thought  he  was  done  for,  but  the  little  black  head  kept 
bobbing  up,  to  be  followed  by  an  arm  raised  appealingly 
for  assistance.  Xo  one  on  our  side  of  the  bay  could  do 
anything  to  save  him,  as  the  canoes  had  all  been  berthed 
in  the  creek  behind ; help,  however,  was  at  hand. 

From  behind  the  village  a boat  shot  out,  driven  like 
an  arrow  over  the  waters,  a brawny  hand  seized  the 
woolly  pate,  and  an  inert  mass  was  dragged  over  the 
side  and  out  of  danger.  A crowd  of  women  at  once 
carried  him  to  his  home,  where  he  must  have  been  well 
looked  after,  for  when  presented  to  me  on  the  following 
day,  he  had  quite  recovered,  and  appeared  much  pleased 
'with  his  adventure.  Had  he  been  a girl,  I doubt  if  they 
would  have  taken  half  so  much  trouble  to  save  him. 

Whilst  watching  this  incident  the  tide  had  invaded 
our  tent,  but  as  we  were  in  a sheltered  position,  this 
caused  little  inconvenience  beyond  leaving  the  sea  scum 
over  the  floor,  a very  different  state  of  things  to  the 
rows  of  bare  hut  poles  in  the  village  opposite.  As  the 
tide  fell  and  their  anxiety  as  to  the  security  of  the  rest 
of  the  village  diminished,  the  natives  visited  me  in 

176 


BARTER  AND  EXCHANGE 


hundreds,  showing  their  hospitality  and  desire  for 
trading  by  bringing  forward  bananas,  cocoa-nuts,  &c. 
Amongst  the  etcetera  must  be  included  the  wives  and 
daughters,  the  men  being  most  anxious  that  some  of 
their  female  belongings  should  stay  with  me ; and  I 
must  say  the  damsels  were  in  nowise  backward  in  dis- 
playing their  charms  and  graces.  They  showed  such 
evident  signs  of  disappointment  at  my  refusal  that  had 
I been  tempted  to  live  long  amongst  them,  it  would 
have  been  difficult  to  resist  a feeling  of  vanity.  The 
prices  demanded  were  not  exorbitant,  and  as  no 
business  was  doing,  gradually  dropped  from  a hand- 
kerchief to  a few  beads.  Darkness  fell  at  last,  and  I 
was  left  in  peace. 

The  next  morning  the  village  was  fully  explored, 
and  a few  odds  and  ends  purchased.  Papuans  take  a 
great  pride  in  escorting  a visitor  round  their  village, 
and  point  out  each  object  they  consider  of  interest. 
As  may  be  imagined,  a white  stranger  is  followed 
everywhere  by  an  interested  crowd  of  men  and  boys, 
though  the  women  as  a rule  content  themselves  with 
inquisitive  peerings  from  the  interior  of  the  hut  and 
from  the  doorways.  They  will  trade  away  anything, 
and  one’s  approach  is  the  signal  for  the  whole  of  their 
worldly  goods  to  be  slipped  outside  the  hut,  on  the 
chance  that  some  article  may  catch  the  stranger’s  eye 
and  a sale  be  effected.  Clubs  are  stuck  into  the  ground, 
spears  leant  against  the  roof,  and  bows  and  arrows,  sago 
dishes,  and  even  human  skulls  laid  out,  so  as  to  show  to 
the  best  possible  advantage.  After  dusk  is  the  usual 
time  for  clandestine  trading,  the  approach  of  the  seller 
being  heralded  by  the  customary  deprecating  cough. 
At  Nime  the  adoption  of  this  time  for  doing  trade 
appears  to  be  due  to  the  fact  that  many  of  the  natives 

177  m 


CLUBS 


are  either  not  allowed  to  sell  at  all,  or  object  to  be  seen 
bargaining  in  the  face  of  the  whole  community.  What 
we  were  then  most  eager  to  purchase  were  stone  clubs, 
weapons  which  do  not  deteriorate  with  keeping,  as 
happens  so  often  when  other  native  articles  are  bought 
and  put  away  for  a few  months  in  a damp  hut. 

Some  rough  kind  of  club  was  probably  man’s  earliest 
weapon,  at  first  formed  entirely  of  wood,  to  which  later 
on  a stone  head  was  fitted.  Both  kinds  are  used  here, 
but  of  the  two  the  one  made  with  the  stone  head  is  far 
and  away  the  most  popular.  The  head  may  be  of  coral, 
limestone,  or  sandstone,  of  a necessity  brought  from 
great  distances,  as  no  stone  of  any  description  is  to  be 
met  with  away  from  the  mountains  to  the  north.  It 
is  with  these  barbaric  instruments  that  quarrels  are 
settled,  whether  for  wife-beating  or  for  repelling  the 
attack  of  hostile  tribes.  Either  as  an  outlet  for  their 
ingenuity  or  to  make  the  weapon  more  effective,  the 
large  majority  of  the  stone  heads  are  carved  so  as  to 
leave  projecting  points  or  ridges,  and  when  in  the  hands 
of  a powerful  savage  are  engines  of  destruction  by  no 
means  to  be  despised.  The  heads  alone  weigh  anything 
between  4 and  8 pounds,  and  must  take  weeks  to  com- 
plete. The  iron  imported  by  the  expedition  came  as  a 
godsend  to  the  manufacturers  of  these  weapons,  and  it 
was  not  long  before  the  Papuans  saw  one  of  our  steel 
files  in  use  and  begged  the  loan  of  it  for  a short  time. 
The  result  was  a weirdly-fashioned  club-head  and  a 
worn-out  file.  Further  borrowings  were  discouraged, 
and  they  had  to  fall  back  upon  any  scrap  of  iron  or  old 
meat  tins  they  could  pick  up  around  the  camp.  To 
show  how  little  they  knew  of  the  properties  of  iron  and 
steel,  we  saw  a man  one  day  trying  to  break  a stone 
with  a good  butcher’s  knife  he  had  just  earned  by  much 

178 


Forcing  the  Canoes  past  the  Timber  Blocks  on  the  Mimiica 

These  dams  are  to  be  found  every  few  hundred  yards  from  its  source  to  within  ten  miles  of  the  sea. 


A Party  of  Papuans  travelling  fast  on  the  Kaiqua  River 

With  five  or  six  men  paddling,  the  canoes  can  be  driven  through  the  water  as  fast  as  or  even 
faster  than  the  launch. 


STRATEGY 


labour,  and  it  was  quite  a common  sight  to  see  a carving 
knife  so  chipped  as  to  be  nearly  useless  even  on  the  first 
day  it  had  come  into  the  possession  of  its  owner.  Now 
that  we  have  left  their  country  they  probably  appreciate 
the  value  of  the  metal,  but  it  is  unlikely  that  they  will 
get  any  more  for  many  years  to  come. 

The  next  day  a short  journey  up  the  Kaiqua  River 
confirmed  the  statement  of  the  natives  that  it  was  use- 
less as  a route  to  the  east.  The  river  was  but  a large 
jungle  creek.  With  the  crowd  of  canoes  which  hemmed 
us  in  on  every  side  fast  progress  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  the  farther  we  got  from  Nime  the  less  we  liked 
the  behaviour  of  our  escort.  They  became  familiar  and 
noisy,  jostling  their  canoes  into  ours,  one  or  two  of  the 
savages  even  trying  to  get  on  board.  As  there  were  but 
five  of  us,  three  of  whom  were  unarmed  coolies,  and  as 
nothing  would  have  been  easier  than  to  upset  the  canoe, 
in  which  case  our  weapons  would  have  been  useless,  we 
decided  to  return  without  giving  warning  of  our  inten- 
tion. Waving  the  natives  aside  for  an  instant,  the 
boat  was  quickly  turned,  and  before  they  knew  what  we 
were  after,  was  heading  down-stream.  I am  not  sure 
whether  these  people  really  had  any  hostile  intentions 
or  not,  but  the  shout  that  went  up  at  this  action  of  ours 
lent  colour  to  the  supposition.  F or  a few  moments  they 
were  nonplussed  at  this  unexpected  move,  and  then, 
either  seeing  that  we  were  suspicious  or  that  we  had 
some  other  plan  in  view,  they  paddled  away  for  Nime 
as  fast  as  they  could  drive  their  craft  through  the  water, 
and  thus  it  happened  that  on  the  return  journey  we 
were  deserted.  We  knew,  and  probably  the  natives  did 
likewise,  that  had  disaster,  either  through  accident  or 
foul  play,  overtaken  us  during  any  of  these  side  expedi- 
tions, no  one  in  the  world  would  ever  have  been  any  the 

179 


SECOND  TRIP  UP  THE  KAIQUA 

wiser.  At  any  rate,  when  one  has  received  a warning, 
it  is  better  to  be  wise  before  than  after  the  event,  and  if 
nothing  of  importance  is  to  be  gained  by  proceeding, 
then  why  run  an  unnecessary  risk  ? We  again  spent  the 
night  in  the  village  of  Nime,  and  I will  say  this  much  for 
the  men,  that  their  behaviour  was  otherwise  exemplary. 

Later  in  the  year  a second  trip  was  made  up  the 
Kaiqua,  when  it  was  found  that  the  river,  though  pos- 
sessing a splendid  mouth,  soon  narrowed  and  became 
an  ordinary  tidal  creek.  For  twelve  miles  it  was  just 
navigable  for  a small  launch,  and  proved  to  be  the  high- 
way to  a small  and  flourishing  village  of  the  same  name. 
Not  that  it  was  inhabited  at  the  time  of  our  second 
journey ; there  were,  however,  so  many  evidences  of  its 
being  occupied  during  a considerable  period  of  the  year, 
and  such  large  areas  of  cocoa-nut  and  banana  plantations 
lay  close  around,  that  there  was  no  doubt  in  our  minds 
that  it  must  have  developed  at  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  into  quite  a populous  place.  On  this  second  trip 
two  natives  of  Nime  were  taken  as  guides,  and  as  they 
showed  no  objection  -whatever  to  our  going  where  we 
liked,  the  desire  to  keep  their  inland  village  a secret 
could  not  have  been  the  reason  for  their  peculiar  be- 
haviour during  the  first  attempt  to  advance  up  the  river. 

When  about  to  leave  the  country  for  good  we  found 
out  that  their  positive  declarations  as  to  there  being  no 
creek  running  to  the  east  were  false  ; a passage  navigable 
for  canoes  lies  behind  a low  flat  island  near  Nime,  and 
the  natives  frequently  make  use  of  it  in  order  to  reach 
the  Timoura  River,  by  this  means  avoiding  the  sea 
route.  This  channel  was  kept  from  our  knowledge,  for 
the  simple  reason  that  they  did  not  desire  us  to  move 
in  that  direction,  as  they  feared  to  lose  the  monopoly  of 
our  trade  goods  which  they  at  present  enjoyed. 

180 


CHAPTER  XIII 


Coast  ancl  up-river  natives — The  headman  of  Nime — A dignified  character 
— Native  curiosity — Photographs  and  pictures — Native  drawings — 
Novelty  and  amusement — Scenery  on  the  Atoeka — An  albino- — Buy- 
ing a motor  launch — Collapse  of  a village — A miserable  experience — 
Halley’s  comet — An  enjoyable  change 


IVT OT  only  in  habits  and  manners  but  also  in  build, 
-A- 1 and  to  a lesser  extent  in  colour,  there  is  a 
noticeable  difference  between  the  coast  people  of  Nime 
and  those  of  Parimau— the  former  typical  representa- 
tives of  the  coast  tribes,  the  latter  of  the  up-river 
natives ; this  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  but  thirty  to 
thirty-five  miles  separate  the  villages,  and  that  the  alti- 
tude is  practically  the  same.  Along  the  coast  the  skin 
is  almost  invariably  of  a dull  black  colour — the  lead 
black  of  the  stove  without  the  shine,  as  it  has  been 
described — whilst  amongst  the  natives  living  at  the 
head  waters  of  the  rivers  it  is  of  a distinctly  lighter 
shade,  more  of  a deep  chocolate.  The  coast  men, 
though  of  immense  strength,  with  bull-like  necks,  and 
chests  and  arms  of  herculean  mould,  cannot  compare 
with  the  Parimau  men  for  symmetry  of  build,  activity, 
or  grace  of  carriage.  Both  physically  and  mentally 
they  appear  to  conform  to  a lower  type,  and,  with 
few  exceptions,  are  brutish  in  face  and  figure.  The 
women  are  horrible,  except  when  young,  and  even  then 
cannot  be  described  as  prepossessing,  and  it  is  hard  to 
see  how  either  the  Dutch  or  the  missionaries  can  hope 
materially  to  raise  this  race  from  their  present  depth 
of  degradation.  Low  as  they  may  be,  they  are  by  no 


181 


THE  HEADMAN  OF  NIME 

means  on  the  bottom  rung  of  the  ladder,  for  the  tribes 
living  farther  to  the  east  are  of  a still  more  depraved 
type,  and  so  savage  that  it  is  impossible  to  get  on 
intimate  terms,  or,  in  many  districts,  to  approach  near 
enough  even  to  converse. 

Now  and  again  one  comes  across  a distinctly 
superior  type  of  man,  as  it  were  an  oasis  in  the  desert 
of  savagery,  all  the  more  noticeable  by  comparison 
with  the  people  amongst  whom  they  live.  Such  a 
one  was  the  headman  of  Nime,  the  same  who  had 
been  taken  aboard  the  Nias  on  our  first  arrival  in  the 
country.  Of  perfect  proportions,  with  an  intelligent 
and  pleasing  countenance,  a word  of  his  carried  more 
authority  than  was  the  case  with  any  other  man  along 
the  coast.  He  adopted  the  outer  signs  of  civilisation 
with  as  much  ease  as  a sponge  absorbs  water,  and  com- 
ported himself  with  such  decorum  that  he  was  allowed 
the  free  run  of  the  base  camp,  and  was  never  known 
to  abuse  the  privilege.  His  dignity  was  enhanced,  so 
he  thought,  by  the  adoption  of  a straw  hat,  a torn 
khaki  coat,  a pair  of  worn-out  trousers,  and  an  old 
pair  of  shoes  three  or  four  sizes  too  small,  and  unless 
adorned  with  these  dilapidated  articles  he  rarely 
approached  our  huts.  Yet  even  when  so  disfigured, 
he  still  retained  a more  imposing  manner  than  could 
be  assumed  by  any  of  our  half  civilised  coolies  from 
Amboina  and  Macassar.  He  would  arrive  unobtru- 
sively and  sit  down  until  we  were  disengaged,  then 
advance  with  a dignified  step,  raise  his  hat,  and  shake 
hands.  When  the  time  came  for  him  to  take  his 
departure,  he  would  again  shake  hands,  place  his  right 
hand  over  his  heart,  and  retire  to  his  canoe,  there  to 
remove  all  vestige  of  clothing  and  become  once  more 
the  Papuan  pure  and  simple. 

182 


A Headman 

The  headman  of  the  coast  town  of  Nim6,  and  a good  friend  to  the  expedition.  Behind  is 
Lieut.  Cramer’s  house  made  of  matting  imported  from  Java. 


NATIVE  CURIOSITY 

His  elder  wife,  the  one  with  the  highly-tattooed 
back,  occasionally  used  to  pay  a visit  to  the  Malay 
wife  of  the  Dutch  quartermaster,  on  which  occasions 
she  would  appear  in  a skirt  of  red  trade  cloth.  Not 
a word  did  either  know  of  the  other’s  language,  but 
this  did  not  matter,  as  they  were  quite  content  to  stare 
at  each  other,  without  speaking,  for  hours  at  a time. 
The  chief’s  younger  wife  was  not  permitted  to  take 
part  in  these  jaunts,  possibly  because  she  was  by  far 
the  best-looking  girl  in  the  district,  and  the  more  she 
w'as  kept  in  seclusion  the  better  it  wras  for  the  husband. 
The  Major  (as  this  headman  was  called  by  the  Dutch) 
and  his  wife  were  born  traders,  and  when  business  was 
slack  would  wander  round  the  camp  begging  with 
an  insinuating  smile  for  any  article  which  took  their 
fancy.  Nothing  came  amiss — -tins,  bottles,  paper,  old 
rags  and  boots,  all  would  have  some  value  sooner  or 
later,  and  so  were  added  to  the  piles  of  rubbish  which 
encumbered  the  floors  of  their  huts.  His  own  canoes 
he  would  never  part  with  under  the  price  of  two  axes, 
but  if  we  wanted  any  belonging  to  another  man  he 
would  get  them  for  us  for  an  axe-head  apiece  and  a 
small  present  for  himself. 

Our  visit  to  Nime  brought  another  fact  home  to 
us,  namely,  that  if  privacy  is  desired,  it  is  unwise 
to  camp  in  the  close  proximity  of  a village.  One’s 
every  movement  is  followed  by  an  expectant  and  ever- 
watchful  crowd,  and  the  people  will  follow  one  into 
the  jungle  or  peep  under  the  flies  of  the  tent  rather 
than  lose  sight  of  you  for  an  instant.  Some  will  smoke 
on  in  silence,  others  will  make  sotto  voce  remarks  about 
whatever  may  strike  them  as  out  of  the  common,  but 
never  for  a single  instant  are  those  dozens  of  pairs  of 
eyes  moved  one  inch  away.  Whichever  way  you  may 

183 


PHOTOGRAPHS  AND  PICTURES 

look  you  will  find  eyes  riveted  upon  your  face,  until 
tired  of  the  ceaseless  scrutiny  you  invent  something 
to  distract  their  attention. 

For  this  purpose  the  photographs  proved  a never- 
failing  source  of  amusement  and  interest,  and  though 
only  of  quarter-plate  size,  were  examined  with  shouts 
of  joy.  Portraits  were  at  once  recognised,  those  of  the 
pygmies  being  received  with  jeers,  and  those  of  the 
up-river  men  when  shown  to  the  coast  people,  or  vice 
versa,  with  scowls  and  mutterings  of  disapproval.  The 
subject  of  a photograph,  if  present,  usually  assumed  a 
sickly  grin  and  would  refuse  to  look.  Pictures  from 
Country  Life  and  other  illustrated  papers  were  sub- 
jected to  the  minutest  examination ; and,  as  may  be 
imagined,  photographs  of  such  things  as  horses  and 
cows  caused  much  perplexity.  Every  animal  had  to 
come  under  the  category  of  dog,  pig,  wallaby  or 
cuscus,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that,  with  the 
exception  of  these  four  beasts,  the  Papuans  knew  of 
no  animal  greater  than  a rat.  One  could  not  help 
laughing  when  the  Derby  winner  was  described  as  a 
pig,  or  when  some  of  them  placed  a Highland  bull  in 
the  same  species  as  a cuscus,  whilst  others  maintained 
it  was  a dog.  The  kind  of  picture  they  thoroughly 
disliked  and  feared  were  those  of  the  genre  of  Caton 
Woodville.  Such  for  instance  as  a furious  white  man 
armed  with  a spear  riding  a foam-flecked  charger  with 
staring  eyeballs  and  steam  issuing  from  his  nostrils, 
and  bearing  down  at  full  speed  upon  the  spectator, 
proved  more  than  they  could  stand.  With  these 
pictorial  horrors  of  the  outer  world  they  would  have 
nothing  to  do,  refusing  even  to  touch  the  paper  upon 
which  they  were  printed. 

The  crowning  joy,  however,  was  supplied  by  the 

184 


NATIVE  DRAWINGS 

portraits  of  peeresses,  actresses,  and  the  famous  beauties 
of  England.  The  Ah ! ah’s  of  astonishment  were 
accompanied  by  thumpings  of  the  chest  and  other  ex- 
pressions of  surprise  and  joy.  I hope  these  ladies  will 
not  take  it  amiss  that  Marshall  and  I claimed  them  all 
as  our  wives.  The  savages  themselves  first  put  the  idea 
into  our  heads,  and  as  it  was  obvious  the  mere  sugges- 
tion had  caused  us  to  rise  immensely  in  their  estimation, 
we  were  shameless  enough  to  fall  in  with  their  views 
and  to  claim  the  lot.  We  divided  them  equally  between 
us,  now  and  again  awarding  one  to  Wollaston  (who  was 
absent),  and  naturally  giving  him  the  ones  we  admired 
least. 

The  examination  of  these  photographs  led  to  an 
exhibition  of  native  draughtsmanship  which,  however 
interesting  in  itself,  was  not  characterised  by  much 
skill,  the  pictures  being  rarely  equal  to  what  could  be 
produced  by  an  English  child  four  or  five  years  of  age. 
These  drawing  competitions  usually  took  place  at 
Parimau,  where,  seated  cross-legged  on  the  floor  the 
natives  would  remain  for  hours  absorbed  in  their  work, 
though,  as  Shortridge  learnt  later  on,  this  industry  was 
in  part  assumed  in  order  that  they  might,  sooner  or 
later,  obtain  an  opportunity  of  pilfering  his  skinning 
tools  when  his  back  was  turned.  The  objects  which 
they  generally  chose  to  illustrate  were  naturally  those 
with  which  they  were  most  familiar,  such  as  men  and 
women,  dogs,  birds  and  fish.  The  eyes  of  the  human 
beings  were  made  large  and  round,  the  feet  and  hands 
of  immense  size,  each  toe  and  finger  being  well  separated 
from  its  neighbour  and  drawn  quite  irrespective  of  the 
correct  number.  As  long  as  these  points  were  well 
marked  and  the  position  of  the  armlets  and  knee-bands 
satisfactorily  settled,  other  details  of  the  body  were 

185 


NOVELTY  AND  AMUSEMENT 

considered  of  little  importance.  One  could  distinguish 
in  a moment  what  bird  they  were  trying  to  draw, 
whether  hornbill,  parrot,  or  crown  pigeon,  as  they  at 
once  picked  out  its  particular  characteristic  and  drew 
the  remainder  of  the  bird  around  it.  All  four-footed 
animals  looked  alike  in  their  pictures  though,  curiously 
enough,  both  birds  and  fish  were  often  drawn  upside 
down.  The  reason  for  this  we  were  quite  unable  to 
fathom,  as  otherwise  the  men  showed  no  signs  of 
astigmatism. 

The  works  of  a watch  aroused  much  interest,  but  as 
the  thing  was  evidently  alive,  they  did  not  consider  that 
there  was  anything  very  curious  about  its  making  a 
noise.  Likewise  with  the  mechanical  pig ; all  pigs 
walked,  so  why  should  not  this  one?  Now  a Teddy- 
bear  is  different ; this  was  an  entirely  new  form  of 
animal,  and  of  such  alarming  appearance  that,  with 
bulging  eyes  and  every  sign  of  outward  terror,  the 
burly  throng  recoiled  several  paces  at  the  sight.  An 
aluminium  basin  ! Splendid  ! W as  there  anything  like 
it  in  the  world  ? This  must  be  passed  round,  weighed 
and  minutely  examined  ; balanced  and  patted,  and  again 
weighed  : it  was  a never-ending  joy.  A nasty  thing  a 
pistol ! — it  bored  holes  in  trees,  but  shot  no  birds  or 
other  food,  and  was  therefore  soon  rejected.  A gun  was 
quite  different ; it  certainly  made  a horrid  noise  till  you 
got  used  to  it,  but  had  the  compensatory  advantage 
that  it  killed  pigs  and  birds. 

And  so  the  game  went  on,  full  of  novelty  for  them 
and  amusement  for  us.  One  day  I tried  them  with 
piccalilli  pickles,  a form  of  food  that  was  highly  dis- 
approved of ; mustard  was  put  in  the  same  category, 
and  curiously  enough  so  was  salt,  a commodity  so 
highly  prized  in  other  parts  of  New  Guinea  that  the 

186 


NOVELTY  AND  AMUSEMENT 

natives  will  accept  a teaspoonful  as  a day’s  payment  for 
carrying  a load.  The  Mimika  Papuan  has  so  great  an 
aversion  to  salt  in  any  form  that,  even  when  hungry, 
and  though  it  is  offered  as  a present,  he  will  refuse  to 
partake  of  salt  fish.  Tea  was  greatly  appreciated ; but, 
judging  from  their  first  and  only  experience,  it  may 
safely  be  said  that  the  natives  will  never  take  kindly  to 
whisky.  At  his  own  request  I once  gave  a brawny 
savage  a tablespoonful  of  this  latter  beverage,  his  friends, 
as  was  invariably  the  case  when  experimenting  with 
food,  standing  by  to  watch  the  effect.  He  was  told  to 
drink  it  straight  down  and  not  to  sip  it,  and  as  his 
mouth  closed  on  the  last  drop  his  body  became  rigid, 
and  then  appeared  to  swell,  his  eyes  started  from  his 
head,  and  with  a slow  and  desperate  air  he  grasped  his 
throat  with  a vice-like  grip.  “ Ah  ! Ah  ! ” burst  from  the 
lips  of  the  spectators  absorbed  in  the  tragedy  being 
enacted  before  their  eyes.  To  the  uninitiated  I can 
well  believe  the  performance  proved  a thrilling  spectacle, 
for  as  gasp  followed  gasp  in  rapid  succession,  tears 
welled  up  to  his  eyes,  his  hands  travelled  from  his 
throat  to  his  abdomen,  while  the  look  of  terror  on  his 
face  grew  in  intensity.  He  departed  a sadder  but  a 
wiser  man,  thankful  that  the  fell  poison  had  not  claimed 
him  as  a victim. 

Altogether  they  caused  us  infinite  amusement  when 
not  too  talkative,  but  when  they  once  became  loquacious 
the  assembly  had  to  be  dissolved,  for  much  talk,  like 
wine  with  some  Europeans,  caused  them  to  become 
familiar  and  bothersome. 

On  the  18th  May,  having  accomplished  all  that  was 
possible  at  Nim£,  we  returned  to  the  Mimika  mouth, 
and  as  there  was  no  immediate  necessity  for  us  to  arrive 
at  Wakatimi,  struck  off  to  the  west  at  the  junction  of 

187 


SCENERY  ON  THE  ATOEKA 

the  Atoeka  and  Mimika  Rivers,  and  followed  for  a few 
miles  the  stream  traversed  by  Wollaston,  Cramer,  and 
Marshall  six  weeks  before.  At  a distance  of  three 
miles  we  entered  the  Atoeka  proper,  and  with  the  men 
paddling  hard  covered  another  eight  miles.  The  forest 
here  was  of  an  entirely  different  description  to  anything 
I had  previously  seen,  for  though  the  vegetation  was 
similar,  yet  the  number  of  dead  trees  and  the  quantity 
of  cocoa-nut  and  tobacco  plantations  gave  an  open  and 
airy  appearance  to  the  whole.  It  seemed,  however,  to 
be  an  unpopular  spot,  for  neither  a hut  nor  a native  was 
to  be  seen.  The  river  began  to  narrow  considerably, 
and  as  it  had  the  appearance  of  an  ordinary  jungle-fed 
stream,  we  decided  to  camp  for  the  night  and  to  con- 
tinue the  journey  on  the  following  da)7-,  solely  for  the 
purpose  of  adding  to  the  map.  At  this  moment  three 
canoes  filled  with  paddlers  from  Obota  overtook  us,  all 
full  of  vociferous  talk  and  questions  as  to  why  we  had 
passed  by  their  village  and  entered  this  useless  and  un- 
inhabited river.  If  we  would  only  return  and  sleep  at 
their  village,  they  would  give  us  bananas,  cocoa-nuts  and 
tobacco,  as  much  as  we  required,  and  in  addition  would 
paddle  the  canoe.  So  back  again  we  went,  thoroughly 
appreciating  the  novelty  of  being  driven  rapidly  through 
the  water  without  any  exertion  on  our  part.  Turning 
at  the  junction  of  the  rivers,  we  were  soon  in  a narrow 
channel  through  which  raced  the  muddy  waters  of  the 
Kapare.  Passing  between  rows  of  huts  lining  both 
banks  of  the  river  and  accompanied  by  a crowd  of 
women  and  children,  we  drew  up  opposite  an  island 
cleared  of  trees,  and  there  pitched  camp. 

The  men  were  as  good  as  their  word  in  bringing 
fruit  and  tobacco,  though,  instead  of  offering  them  as 
gifts,  they  demanded  exorbitant  prices.  The  supply 

188 


AN  ALBINO 


being  immense  and  the  demand  limited,  there  was  soon 
a regular  slump  and  the  canoe  was  half  filled  with  fruit 
by  the  expenditure  on  our  part  of  a few  hankerchiefs 
and  a handful  of  beads. 

It  proved  to  be  a delightful  spot.  Acres  of  land 
were  thickly  planted  with  bananas,  over  which  rose  an 
occasional  cocoa-nut  tree,  whilst  up  stream  were  nume- 
rous tobacco  plantations. 

As  the  people  were  most  anxious  to  show  off  the 
advantages  of  their  village  as  a place  of  residence,  I 
took  the  opportunity  of  thoroughly  exploring  their 
homes  and  household  goods,  all  of  which  were  displayed 
to  the  best  advantage  in  the  obvious  hope  that  they 
would  appeal  to  us  and  lead  to  the  clinching  of  a bargain. 
The  weapons  and  utensils  were  of  the  usual  kind,  added 
to  which  there  were  dozens  of  human  skulls  grinning 
from  every  doorway,  things  which  at  this  period  of  the 
expedition  were  not  really  required.  Nevertheless 
something  had  to  be  bought,  if  only  for  charity’s  sake, 
for  it  was  pitiable  to  watch  the  looks  of  disappointment 
as  the  most  cherished  goods  were  passed  by  almost 
unnoticed.  One  article  caught  my  eye,  a thing  one 
would  least  expect  to  find  in  this  out-of-the-way  place, 
a large  Chinese  jar  of  considerable  age,  but  upon  the 
value  of  which  small  store  was  set.  It  had  been  in  pos- 
session of  the  village  for  many  years,  so  I was  informed, 
and  had  originally  been  brought  over  by  the  natives  of 
the  Kei  Islands,  with  which  place  these  people  seem  to 
be  acquainted.  I understand  that  the  Kei  Islanders  do 
occasionally  visit  these  shores,  which  may  account  for 
the  various  pieces  of  scrap  iron  found  scattered  through- 
out the  district. 

It  was  at  this  village  that  the  first  albino,  a pink 
baby,  was  seen,  though  the  parents  were  coal  black. 

189 


BUYING  A MOTOR  LAUNCH 

Its  skin  was  entirely  free  from  the  unsightly  blotches 
which  formed  so  conspicuous  a feature  in  the  two  other 
albinos  of  the  district  whom  we  saw  later  on  ; it  might 
have  been  taken  for  an  European  child  but  for  the  very 
pale  colour  of  its  grey  eyes. 

The  people  were  most  averse  to  our  departing  for 
Wakatimi  on  the  following  day,  and  with  their  arms 
full  of  sago  dishes,  spears,  skulls,  kc.  stood  on  the  bank 
attempting  to  drive  one  last  bargain,  until  we  were  lost 
to  sight  round  the  bend. 

Six  days  later,  that  is  to  say  during  the  last  week  in 
May,  a fresh  attempt  was  made  to  discover  the  passage 
to  the  east ; fate  again  ruled,  however,  that  the  Wania 
should  never  be  reached  this  way,  as  on  our  arrival  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mimika  there,  two  miles  from  the 
shore,  lay  the  relief  ship  Zwaan,  and  approaching  the 
harbour  was  her  launch.  I went  on  board,  and  whilst 
the  stores  were  being  transferred  to  land  enjoyed  a 
most  excellent  lunch  with  Commander  Rothmeyer. 

We  were  aware  that  the  pearl-fishers  at  Dobo  pos- 
sessed two  or  three  motor  boats,  and  as  the  steam- 
launch  lent  us  by  the  Dutch  authorities  had  completely 
broken  down,  and  Commander  Rothmeyer  being  willing 
to  take  us  over  to  Dobo,  we  determined  to  seize  the 
opportunity  and  try  to  persuade  the  pearl-fishers  to  sell 
us  one  of  these  boats.  By  hastening  the  embarkation 
as  much  as  possible  the  invalids,  thirty-seven  in  num- 
ber, were  on  board  by  daybreak  the  following  morn- 
ing and,  together  with  Goodfellow  and  Shortridge — 
the  latter  of  whom  had  been  suffering  from  fever  since 
March,  and  wras  to  go  to  Australia  for  three  months  to 
recuperate — we  sailed  for  Dobo. 

How  splendid  it  was  to  be  at  sea  again,  and  to 
breathe  the  bracing  air  after  the  fetid  and  malaria-laden 

190 


COLLAPSE  OF  A VILLAGE 

mist  of  the  jungle  ! Hotels  are  unknown  in  Dobo,  but 
they  are  not  required  owing  to  the  presence  of  those 
hospitable  Australians,  the  Clark  brothers,  Ross- Smith, 
and  Jessop,  and  others  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  who 
have  created  a valuable  and  flourishing  industry  in  this 
desolate  possession  of  the  Dutch.  With  them  we  stayed 
a week,  and  whilst  waiting  for  the  return  of  the  Zwaan 
purchased  a ten  horse-power  motor  boat,  built  of  the 
strongest  timbers  and  fit,  so  we  thought,  to  withstand 
the  hard  usage  with  which  it  would  meet. 

We  returned  to  New  Guinea  on  the  6th  June,  to 
experience  anything  but  a pleasant  landing,  for  the 
south-east  monsoon  had  broken,  and  wild  surf  was 
beating  on  the  bar.  During  our  short  absence  eight 
more  men  had  fallen  seriously  ill.  They  were  immedi- 
ately transferred  to  the  steamer,  and  with  the  departure 
of  the  Zwaan  all  connection  with  civilisation  was  severed 
for  many  months. 

As  an  additional  impediment  to  progress,  both  the 
Mimika  and  Obota  rivers  were  found  to  be  in  full 
flood.  Trees,  and  often  whole  islands  of  vegetation, 
were  rushing  down  the  stream,  jostling  each  other  in  a 
confused  mass  as  the  surging  torrent  swept  onwards 
to  the  sea.  Though  the  land  close  to  the  coast  was 
under  water,  we  little  anticipated  the  unpleasant  expe- 
riences which  we  were  to  undergo  at  Wakatimi. 

Already  the  surrounding  country  was  inundated, 
leaving  the  camp  and  native  village  as  islands  in  the 
midst  of  a vast  timbered  swamp  ; the  former  preserved 
for  the  moment  by  the  dykes  which  had  been  thrown 
up,  and  the  latter  by  the  accumulations  of  years  of 
household  refuse.  Slowly  but  surely  the  rise  continued, 
the  drains  filled  and  overflowed,  and  finally  when  the 
retaining  banks  burst,  the  waters  swept  through  the 

191 


COLLAPSE  OF  A VILLAGE 

camp.  Faster  and  faster  rose  the  river,  causing 
additional  havoc  every  instant  as  it  poured  across  the 
peninsula  in  an  irresistible  rush  for  the  sea.  The 
native  village  of  Tourapaya,  situated  just  to  the  north 
of  the  camp,  received  the  full  force  of  the  flood  and 
collapsed  like  a pack  of  cards.  The  inhabitants  com- 
pletely lost  their  heads,  and  with  loud  cries  and  much 
lamentation  seized  the  more  precious  of  their  goods, 
flung  them  into  the  canoes  and  paddled  frantically 
away.  After  five  minutes  they  came  back  again  for 
one  last  look,  and  then  away  they  went  and  vanished 
for  good,  whither  I cannot  say.  We  were  too  busy 
ourselves  to  pay  much  attention  to  what  happened  to 
others,  as  all  our  efforts  were  concentrated  in  the 
attempt  to  save  our  own  precious  goods,  by  piling  box 
upon  box  and  case  upon  case.  As  luck  would  have  it, 
we  had  many  stores  and  few  men,  and  consequently 
tons  of  valuable  food-stuff's  were  ruined.  Rice,  beans, 
dried  meat,  fish,  trade  goods,  blankets,  and  other  price- 
less and  irreplaceable  articles  slowly  disappeared  from 
view,  as  the  waters  lapped  over  one  box  after  the 
other,  completely  destroying  the  contents.  The  floods 
in  Paris  at  the  beginning  of  the  year  were  bad  enough, 
but  there  the  victims  had  upper  stories  to  which  their 
more  valuable  goods  could  be  removed  for  safety.  We 
unfortunately  had  no  such  place  of  refuge,  and  could 
do  little  but  wade  around  and  protect  the  more  perish- 
able articles,  and  raise  our  camp  bedsteads  higher  and 
higher.  For  three  days  and  three  nights  did  the  scene 
of  havoc  and  discomfort  last,  though  our  own  particular 
hut,  owing  to  its  being  on  ground  slightly  higher  than 
the  rest,  had  never  more  than  2|  feet  of  water  over  the 
floor.  So  deep  was  the  flood  in  places  that  parts  of 
the  camp  were  unapproachable,  and  the  hospital  was 

192 


Effects  of  a Flood 

The  July  floods  brought  down  thousands  of  tons  of  debris  similar  to  that  on  which  the  Papuans 
are  standing.  On  the  left  is  a youth  wearing  a grass  apron. 


A MISERABLE  EXPERIENCE 

completely  isolated.  It  was  perfectly  miserable  to  have 
to  sit  in  the  hut,  with  one’s  legs  dangling  in  the 
water,  and  watch  every  small  article  which  could  float 
appear  at  one  door,  swish  across  the  room  and  pass  out 
of  the  other,  to  join  the  vegetation  sweeping  down  the 
river.  Basins,  bowls,  shoes,  bottles,  tins,  all  and  sundry 
joined  in  the  race.  Insects  and  all  manner  of  creeping 
things,  driven  from  their  dark  corners  and  hidden  re- 
cesses, swarmed  up  the  poles  and  walls,  whilst  along 
the  beams  overhead  scurried  numerous  families  of  rats, 
caught  in  a trap  from  which  there  was  no  escape. 

The  whole  country  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea 
was  under  water,  and  so  widespread  was  the  flood  that 
the  coolies,  returning  from  higher  up  stream,  instead 
of  as  usual  halting  for  the  night  at  one  of  the  regular 
camping  places  situated  at  intervals  along  the  forty- 
seven  miles  of  river,  unable  to  find  a vestige  of  ground 
upon  which  to  pitch  their  tents,  were  compelled  to 
come  through  without  a break.  To  their  great  surprise, 
for  they  anticipated  that  W akatimi  at  least  would  be 
comparatively  dry,  they  sailed  straight  across  the  penin- 
sula in  the  dark,  over  the  football  ground,  and  through 
the  doorway  of  their  own  sleeping  house,  where  for  the 
first  time  for  fifteen  hours  they  were  able  to  leave  their 
boat. 

The  whole  affair  was  a most  miserable  experience, 
and  shows  how  hopeless  it  is  to  expect  to  make  any- 
thing much  out  of  this  country.  This  was  the  worst 
visitation  we  had,  but  by  no  means  the  last. 

Through  it  all — and  this  will  tell  my  readers  the 
month  and  the  year — Halley’s  comet  flamed  in  the 
skies.  At  no  place  in  the  world  was  a finer  view  to 
be  obtained  than  from  where  we  were,  and  in  the  early 
mornings  when  the  sky  was  clear  of  cloud  and  the 

193  N 


HALLEY’S  COMET 

flaming  tail  stretched  from  the  horizon  to  the  zenith 
and  even  beyond,  the  effect  was  truly  gorgeous.  It 
could  not  have  remained  unnoticed  by  the  natives  of 
Wakatimi,  for  nothing  escapes  their  sharp  eyes,  but 
whatever  they  may  have  thought  of  the  coming  of  this 
celestial  wonder,  they  gave  no  sign  of  surprise  or  alarm. 
What  must  have  terrified  most  savage  races  passed 
without  a comment  and  left  them  cold. 

On  the  fourth  day  the  waters  commenced  to  subside 
and  fell  steadily ; work  was  soon  recommenced,  and 
the  putrid  fish  and  evil-smelling  rice  cast  for  ever  into 
the  river. 

The  Mimika  itself  continued  in  full  flood,  but 
instead  of  being  an  obstacle  to  the  upward  passage  of 
the  canoes,  the  depth  of  water  now  gave  us  a splendid 
opportunity  to  test  the  new  motor  boat,  and  to  see 
how  she  would  behave  with  six  laden  canoes  astern. 
The  canoes  were  lashed  together  in  threes,  split  bam- 
boos keeping  them  rigid.  On  these  rafts,  well  laden 
with  what  had  escaped  the  flood,  the  coolies  lounged 
in  comfort,  appreciating,  if  ever  anyone  did,  the  ad- 
vantages of  mechanical  over  manual  labour.  How  I 
too  enjoyed  the  change ! Instead  of  being  boxed  up 
for  hour  after  hour  in  a space  18  inches  by  86  inches,  and 
having  to  strain  away  at  the  paddles  and  making  hardly 
an  inch  of  progress,  to  sit  back  in  a roomy  boat,  watching 
mile  after  mile  of  the  banks  slip  by,  was  luxury  indeed  ; 
whilst  to  know  that  large  quantities  of  stores  were 
being  brought  on,  to  think  of  the  amount  of  labour 
saved  to  the  men  and  consequently  strength  gained 
against  disease,  and  all  the  time  to  listen  to  the  steady 
thud  thud  of  the  engine,  was  to  me  the  acme  of 
pleasure.  The  horrid  toil  with  the  paddle,  we  fondly 
thought,  was  ended  for  ever,  and  little  did  we  imagine 

194 


AN  ENJOYABLE  CHANGE 

that  two  more  trips  up  the  river  were  all  that  the 
motor  boat  was  fated  to  do.  But  that  is  another  story, 
and  can  wait  for  the  present. 

On  the  first  day  of  this  journey  we  covered  three 
canoe  stages,  on  the  second  two,  and  early  on  the 
morning  of  the  third  reached  Parimau,  all  well.  How 
different  to  the  former  six  days  of  incessant  toil  and 
the  heavy  roll  of  invalids  who  used  to  find  their  way  to 
hospital  after  such  a journey  in  canoes. 


195 


CHAPTER  XIV 


Up  the  Wataikwa — A stampede  of  carriers — A toilsome  retreat — Vicarious 
punishment — Disappointing  behaviour — New  Guinea  flies — The  wet 
season — Crossing  the  Kamura — The  hidden  baggage — Difficult  survey- 
ing— Alternative  plans — The  course  of  the  Wataikwa — Pleasant  specu- 
lations— A precarious  position — Cutting  through  the  forest — Hampered 
work — A turbulent  stream — Hewing  and  cutting — Dense  vegetation — 
Dreary  work 

MARSHALL,  tired  of  awaiting  our  return,  had 
already  left  on  an  exploration  of  his  own,  taking 
with  him  some  Gurkhas  and  natives  with  provisions  to 
last  three  days.  The  party  was  lightly  equipped,  in 
order  rapidly  to  traverse  the  jungle  beyond  the  Kamura 
and  carry  on  for  at  least  another  two  marches  bevond 
the  point  where  he  and  Shortridge  had  camped  two 
weeks  previously.  After  spending  the  night  at  the 
village  of  Ibo,  where  a canoe  was  borrowed  from  the 
inhabitants  to  transport  the  baggage  to  the  old  camp  at 
the  junction  of  the  Puria,  the  boat  was  tied  up  and  the 
journey  continued  on  foot.  Having  followed  a branch 
stream  for  a few  hours,  they  emerged  on  to  the  banks 
of  the  Wataikwa,  a river  which  was  found  to  have  a 
volume  of  water  larger  than  any  previously  seen. 

As  a crossing  was  impossible  by  reason  of  the  floods, 
they  then  turned  due  north,  and  followed  the  bed  of  the 
river  for  several  miles  into  the  mountains.  So  far  every- 
thing had  gone  well,  but  as  a flood  threatened  and  food 
showed  signs  of  running  short,  they  decided  to  push  on 
no  farther,  but  instead,  to  retire  as  rapidly  as  possible 
and  equip  a fresh  party  to  carry  on  the  exploration  well 

196 


A TOILSOME  RETREAT 

into  the  mountains.  The  Papuan  carriers  seemed  happy 
and  in  the  highest  spirits  at  being  able  to  return  so 
soon,  and  were  delighted  at  the  ample  supplies  of  meat 
obtained  from  a cassowary  which  had  been  shot  during 
the  march. 

The  camp  was  early  astir  and  the  loads  packed  and 
distributed,  when  there  took  place  one  of  those  un- 
accountable actions  on  the  part  of  the  native  carriers 
which  rendered  any  distant  travel  out  of  the  question, 
unless  some  of  our  own  imported  coolies  were  of  the 
party.  Without  a word  of  warning  or  a sign  of  discon- 
tent, the  Papuan  carriers  walked  unconcernedly  into  the 
jungle  and — vanished.  At  first  it  was  thought  that  their 
absence  was  but  temporary,  but  a thorough  search 
proved  beyond  a doubt  that  they  had  gone  for  good. 

Marshall  and  his  Gurkhas  were  now  in  a parlous 
state ; four  long  marches  from  home,  one  day’s  rations 
in  hand,  and  eight  indispensable  loads  to  be  carried  to 
Parimau.  No  time  was  to  be  lost — every  hour  wasted 
added  to  their  difficulties.  Each  man  took  a double 
load,  and  thus  burdened  they  set  forth  on  the  return 
journey  through  the  forest,  over  the  hill,  and  along  the 
flooded  river.  Between  three  and  four  miles  were 
covered  that  day,  and  with  weary  limbs  and  aching 
shoulders  they  camped  for  the  night  on  the  bank  of  the 
Wataikwa,  at  a spot  where  an  overflow  of  the  river 
forms  the  source  of  the  Kamura,  and  where  some  weeks 
later  a permanent  camp  was  to  be  formed. 

At  daybreak  they  were  once  more  on  the  move,  and 
by  untiring  perseverance  carried  everything  to  the  spot 
where  the  canoe  had  been  left  four  days  previous.  Here 
fate  dealt  them  another  blow — the  boat  was  gone  ! no 
doubt  carried  off  by  the  Papuans  during  their  retreat. 
This  loss  forced  them  to  change  their  plans,  for,  laden 

197 


VICARIOUS  PUNISHMENT 

as  they  were,  without  some  assistance  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  reach  Parimau  before  the  food-supplies  were 
completely  exhausted.  Consequently  everything  not 
absolutely  required  was  cached  in  the  jungle  and  well 
hidden  beneath  branches  of  trees,  since  the  eyes  of  the 
natives  are  sharp,  and  a hunting  party  would  be  certain 
to  search  the  site  of  a recently  abandoned  camp. 

With  loads  reduced  to  thirty  or  forty  pounds  in 
weight,  Marshall  and  his  men  stepped  out  manfully, 
and  with  such  good  effect  that  by  midday  they  were 
within  a mile  of  the  village  of  I bo.  The  savages  of  this 
place,  evidently  cognisant  of  the  desertion,  turned  out 
in  force,  and  by  demonstrative  signs  of  sorrow  and  grief 
sympathised  with  the  travellers,  at  the  same  time  vow- 
ing vengeance  upon  the  deserters.  Though  not  directly 
implicated,  they  were  of  the  same  tribe,  and  were  there- 
fore partly  responsible ; but  as  corporal  punishment 
could  hardly  have  been  given  for  acts  they  had  not 
themselves  committed,  they  were  made  to  carry  the 
loads  without  payment,  a form  of  justice  they  appreci- 
ated, if  only  because  such  a thing  had  never  happened 
before.  In  the  end  the  deserters  likewise  escaped 
chastisement,  but  in  its  place  the  information  was 
imparted  to  them  that  they  would  in  future  be  re- 
fused the  run  of  the  camp,  that  they  would  never 
be  employed  on  any  manual  labour  whatever  while 
we  were  in  the  country,  and  that  no  fruit,  canoes, 
paddles,  &c.  would  ever  be  bought  from  them  again. 

Later  in  the  year  some  of  these  men,  anxious  to  dis- 
pose of  their  canoes  and  paddles,  persuaded  their  friends 
to  sell  them  as  their  own ; but  as  from  our  camp  every- 
thing being  made  in  the  village  could  be  seen,  we  knew 
exactly  to  whom  they  belonged,  and  thus  were  able  to 
defeat  the  plan.  It  was  quite  amusing  to  watch  the  real 

198 


DISAPPOINTING  BEHAVIOUR 


owner  in  the  far  distance  peeping  round  the  corner  of  his 
hut  to  see  how  the  scheme  worked. 

The  behaviour  of  the  natives  on  this  last  expedition 
was  most  disappointing,  as  they,  to  all  outward  appear- 
ance, had  been  perfectly  contented  with  their  loads, 
food,  and  promised  rewards.  It  was  obvious  that  for  the 
future  they  could  only  be  looked  upon  as  supplementary 
to  our  transport  force,  more  especially  when  working 
within  a few  days’  march  of  Parimau. 

The  enforced  delay  was  not  wasted.  For  Marshall 
and  the  Gurkhas  a rest  was  imperative,  and  much  food- 
stuff, lately  imported  and  thoroughly  soaked  by  the 
rain,  had  to  be  dried  whenever  an  opportunity  occurred 
in  order  to  prevent  its  complete  putrefaction.  More 
huts  were  built,  landing  steps  constructed,  paths  laid 
out,  the  camp  drained,  and  a hundred  other  things 
done  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  health.  The 
Parimau  camp  had  by  this  time  assumed  the  propor- 
tions of  a village  of  imposing  dimensions,  the  upper  half 
being  British,  the  southern  half  Dutch,  the  two  together 
extending  for  two  hundred  yards  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  for  eighty  to  one  hundred  yards  into  the 
jungle.  To  provide  space  for  these  buildings  more  and 
more  forest  was  cleared,  and  with  the  disappearance  of 
the  timber  the  mosquitoes  vanished  almost  entirely  from 
the  area  enclosed  by  the  boundary  fence.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  blue-bottles  increased  and  multiplied  until 
life  became  almost  unbearable.  They  were  simply 
dreadful,  and  their  persistent  lust  for  laying  eggs  in  our 
food  and  clothes  nearly  drove  us  mad.  The  Egyptians 
could  never  have  been  so  plagued  as  we  were,  for  if  such 
had  been  the  case  every  Jew  would  have  been  massacred 
at  once.  Of  all  pests,  New  Guinea  flies  are  the  worst. 

Shortly  after  Marshall’s  return  from  his  unpleasant 

199 


THE  WET  SEASON 


journey,  Goodfellow  and  Wollaston  arrived  from  below, 
the  former  already  beginning  to  feel  the  effects  of  the 
fever,  which  had  by  this  time  laid  a firm  hold  of  him. 

As  a few  coolies  could  be  spared  from  the  transport 
work  on  the  river,  and  as  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by 
all  of  us  remaining  at  Parimau,  it  was  decided  that 
Marshall  and  I should  again  set  forth  for  the  Wata- 
ikwa,  with  the  threefold  object  of  improving  the  road, 
of  preparing  a permanent  camp  on  that  river,  and  of 
prospecting  not  only  up-  and  down-stream,  but  also 
into  the  dense  forest  beyond.  My  departure  was 
delayed  for  a few  days  by  an  attack  of  malaria,  during 
which  time  Marshall,  with  thirteen  of  our  coolies  and 
a few  natives,  reached  the  Tuaba,  and  advancing,  cut 
a new  and  more  creditable  path  to  the  Kamura,  thereby 
saving  at  least  one  day’s  march. 

The  wet  season,  if  such  a term  can  be  used  in  a 
country  where  it  is  but  rarely  fine,  had  now  set  in  in 
earnest,  and  the  numerous  streams  which  beset  us  at 
every  few  yards  had  to  be  crossed  by  swimming  or  by 
fording  waist-deep.  Still,  what  are  a few  drenchings 
more  or  less  during  the  day’s  march,  when  it  is  the 
exception  to  be  dry  at  any  time  ? During  our  first 
year  in  the  country  we  but  rarely  experienced  the 
luxury  of  dry  clothes,  and  yet  I can  safely  assert,  that 
not  a single  man  in  the  whole  force  suffered  from 
a cold  in  the  head.  Presumably  the  catarrh  germ  does 
not  exist  in  the  land. 

Heavens!  how  it  rained!  Wollaston  took  the 
trouble  to  keep  an  account  of  the  wet  days,  and  found 
that  during  the  first  year  rain  fell  on  three  hundred  and 
thirty  days,  and  on  two  hundred  and  ninety-five  days 
was  accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightning.  Was 
there  ever  such  a streaming  land  ? 

200 


THE  HIDDEN  BAGGAGE 

The  passage  of  the  Kamura  afforded  an  exciting 
experience,  and  so  deep  was  the  water  that  I doubt 
whether  our  coolies  could  have  accomplished  it  without 
the  aid  of  the  natives.  None  of  our  men  were  burdened 
with  an  excessive  amount  of  clothing,  but  it  is  surpris- 
ing what  a difference  even  the  scantiest  garment  makes 
when  battling  with  a strong  current.  A man  carrying 
a load  on  his  head  or  shoulders  has  a better  chance  of 
fording  a rapid  than  one  without,  as  the  extra  weight 
often  prevents  his  legs  from  being  swept  from  beneath 
him.  When  once  across  we  were  in  a position  to 
appreciate  the  delightful  change  of  our  surroundings. 
Broad,  with  a stony  and  sandy  bed,  the  beautiful 
Kamura  sweeps  between  lines  of  casuarina  trees,  behind 
which  again  grows  the  ranker  vegetation  of  the  forest, 
with  its  tangled  mass  of  creepers,  vines  and  under- 
growth. Every  other  large  river  in  these  parts  is  of 
a similar  character  to  the  Kamura,  with  the  exception 
of  the  muddy,  crooked,  and  tree-jammed  Mimika,  the 
most  useless  of  all  rivers  as  a line  of  communication. 

Much  to  the  surprise  of  the  Papuans,  the  baggage 
previously  hidden  by  Marshall  was  dug  out  of  the 
cache,  and,  to  their  intense  disgust,  piled  on  their  backs, 
as  a slight  punishment  for  the  behaviour  of  their 
relatives  in  having  basely  deserted  him  a fortnight 
before.  The  march  was  then  continued  to  the  Wrata- 
ikwa,  where  a site  for  a permanant  camp  was  chosen 
on  a stony  elevation ; an  island  when  the  river  was 
high,  a peninsula  when  low.  Great  trunks  of  moun- 
tain trees  lay  around,  brought  down  by  former  floods, 
and  as  there  was  no  signs  of  the  river  having  lately 
worked  much  havoc  at  this  spot,  it  was  considered 
a fairly  safe  camping-ground  for  years  to  come.  It 
was,  at  any  rate,  a chance  worth  risking,  if  only  that 

201 


DIFFICULT  SURVEYING 

we  might  escape  from  the  prison-like  forest,  away  from 
the  mosquitoes  and  all  creeping  things,  and  the  tainted, 
fever-laden  atmosphere  of  the  jungle.  However  heavily 
it  might  rain,  however  short  the  food  became,  or  what- 
ever discomforts  were  undergone  by  us  on  this  river, 
nothing  could  obliterate  the  charms  of  this  our  best 
camp  in  New  Guinea. 

From  our  own  particular  island,  and  when  the 
mornings  were  clear,  the  mountains  to  the  north  were 
clearly  visible.  It  was,  however,  far  from  easy  to 
enter  them  correctly  upon  the  map,  as  the  jumble  of 
low  hills,  which  stretched  inland  for  many  miles, 
gave  little  indication  to  anyone  in  the  plains  of  the  lie 
of  the  rivers  and  streams,  and  of  how  the  hills  were 
situated  with  respect  to  one  another.  The  Papuans, 
a few  of  whom  were  with  us,  had  apparently  no  wish 
to  deceive  us  as  to  the  topography  of  these  parts,  but 
either  their  knowledge  was  very  limited,  or  their  replies 
were  in  accordance  with  what  they  thought  would 
please  us  most,  for  we  found  that  their  information  was 
incorrect  in  every  case. 

Two  courses  lay  open : either  to  advance  up  the 
bed  of  the  W ataikwa  and  follow  it  far  into  the  moun- 
tains, and,  if  this  promised  well,  to  take  it  as  the  future 
line  of  advance  ; or,  to  cut  a path  through  the  forest  to 
the  east  on  the  chance  that  another  large  river  might 
be  found,  and  one  holding  out  better  prospects  of  a 
successful  attack  upon  the  mountains  in  the  direction 
of  the  snows.  In  either  case  more  stores  would  be  re- 
quired ; so  keeping  two  Gurkhas  to  cook  and  look  after 
the  camp  and  four  Papuans  to  carry  the  loads  or  cut 
the  proposed  road,  the  remainder  were  returned  to 
Parimau. 

Little  did  we  imagine  at  that  time  that  this  camp 

202 


THE  W AT  AIK  W A 


was  to  be  occupied  for  seven  months,  but  then  neither 
did  we  reckon  on  the  wet  weather  which  was  so  often 
and  so  continuously  to  put  a stop  to  the  work  and 
defeat  every  attempt  to  cross  the  river.  In  the  same 
way  it  was  impossible  to  arrange  for  the  food,  and 
particular  difficulty  was  experienced  in  collecting  a 
sufficient  quantity  to  enable  another  advance  to  be 
made.  The  coolies,  it  was  evident,  were  breaking  down 
and  could  not  be  relied  upon  to  hold  out  much  longer 
under  the  present  conditions ; but  it  was  well  to  press 
forward,  as  a fresh  batch  would  certainly  arrive,  so  we 
believed,  before  the  strength  of  the  present  men  had 
completely  failed. 

There  was  no  necessity  for  keeping  any  coolies  at 
this  camp,  as  four  Papuans  had  been  induced  to  take 
up  their  abode  with  us  by  promises  of  an  axe-head 
apiece,  to  be  earned  by  fifteen  days’  continuous  work. 
To  their  minds  the  reward  was  indeed  great,  for  with  it 
the  owner  could  buy  a wife,  the  best  to  be  found  in  the 
land. 

When  questioned  as  to  the  lie  and  source  of  the 
Wataikwa,  they  said  it  rose  in  the  mountains  (a  very 
evident  fact),  that  it  came  from  the  east,  followed  the 
line  of  the  foothills  and  then,  turning  south,  flowed  past 
our  present  camp.  As  this  was  quite  contrary  to  the 
flow  of  every  other  river  yet  met  with,  and  because, 
though  just  what  we  would  have  wished,  it  was  the 
most  improbable  course  for  it  to  take,  we  determined 
to  find  out  for  ourselves.  Feeling  at  length  that  we 
really  had  a hold  on  the  savages,  now  that  they  were 
working  for  an  axe,  the  opportunity  of  investigating 
this  river  was  too  good  to  be  lost.  With  sufficient 
camping  equipment  and  supplies  for  four  days,  we  set 
out  up  the  course  of  the  Wataikwa,  keeping  to  the 

203 


PLEASANT  SPECULATIONS 

drier  portions  of  the  bed ; we  passed  through  a gorge, 
and  making  rapid  progress,  entered  the  valley  originally 
seen  by  Marshall  two  weeks  previously. 

To  do  this  the  river  had  to  be  crossed  dozens  of 
times,  a by  no  means  easy  operation,  with  the  rushing 
water  up  to  one’s  armpits.  It  was  all  right  if  at  each 
crossing  we  worked  down  stream,  but  the  moment  one 
tried  to  battle  against  the  current  disaster  inevitably 
followed.  We  were  now  well  in  the  hills,  nearly  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea  and  amidst  the  most  beauti- 
ful surroundings,  with  rounded  slopes  clad  in  every 
species  of  tropical  vegetation  rising  on  all  sides,  while 
up  the  valley  rugged  mountains  could  be  seen,  too 
precipitous  to  scale,  but  still  clothed  wherever  a shrub 
could  get  a hold.  Black  and  white  cockatoos  whirled 
noisily  overhead,  and  the  spoor  of  pig,  cassowary  and 
wallaby  were  to  be  seen  meandering  in  all  directions. 
We  were  now  far  from  the  hunting  grounds  of  the 
natives,  a sanctuary  for  game  and  a place  where,  to  the 
four-footed  animals,  man  was  unknown. 

As  we  sat  round  the  camp  fire  that  night  hopes  ran 
high  as  to  what  the  morrow  would  bring  forth,  since  if 
a cliff  was  found  and  scaled,  the  question  as  to  the  true 
path  of  the  river  would  be  quickly  settled  and  our 
future  route  of  advance  determined  one  way  or  another. 
Pleasant  indeed  was  it  to  be  seated  before  the  crackling 
logs  and  to  speculate  on  the  possibilities  of  the  future. 
How  delightful  were  those  fine  evenings  in  the  depth 
of  the  New  Guinea  jungle — made  all  the  more  precious 
by  their  rarity — when  the  flickering  light  of  the  fires 
lit  up  the  near  branches  of  the  enveloping  jungle  and 
cast  shadows  of  inky  darkness  beyond,  when  the 
troubles  of  the  past  were  forgotten,  and  all  looked 
rosy  for  the  days  to  come. 

204 


A PRECARIOUS  POSITION 

A wet  afternoon  heralded  a fine  morning,  and  just 
as  invariably  vice  versa,  and  so  it  proved  on  this 
occasion,  as  when  we  rose  the  rain  was  falling  in  tor- 
rents and  the  hills  were  blotted  out  with  clouds. 
Lightly  laden  we  set  out  afresh,  crossing  and  re- 
crossing the  river  at  every  bend,  more  and  more 
hemmed  in  by  impassable  cliffs  the  farther  we  ad- 
vanced. For  two  hours  we  kept  up  one  continual 
struggle  in  sheets  of  rain,  being  ever  more  closely 
wedged  into  the  river-bed  until  it  became  our  only 
road.  Chilled  to  the  bone,  the  work  was  continued 
for  one  hour  more,  when  a pool  was  reached,  too  deep 
to  ford  and  impossible  to  circumvent.  The  view  ahead 
was  restricted  to  a blurred  series  of  spurs  of  little  value 
in  themselves,  but  sufficient  to  prove  that  the  river 
continued  to  the  north,  and  was  therefore  of  no  value 
as  a line  of  advance  to  the  eastern  goal.  Turning,  we 
made  the  best  of  our  way  back,  and  picking  up  such 
articles  as  had  been  left  behind  in  the  morning, 
struggled  through  to  the  plains.  Our  position  in  the 
mountains  had  been  a more  precarious  one  than  was  at 
that  time  realised,  for  though  the  retirement  had  been 
carried  out  rapidly,  we  were  only  just  free  when  the 
river  roared  down  in  spate.  Had  the  rise  been  more 
sudden,  or  had  it  come  down  a few  hours  earlier,  the 
chances  are  that  we  should  have  been  caught,  and 
jammed  in  as  we  were  by  cliffs,  would  certainly  have 
had  to  abandon  the  greater  part  of  the  baggage. 

Our  expectations  of  entering  far  into  the  mountains 
had  certainly  not  been  fulfilled,  and  yet  the  journey 
had  been  attended  with  a certain  measure  of  success, 
as  it  had  exposed  the  lie  of  the  river,  and  had  taught  us 
its  uselessness  as  a line  of  advance  to  the  snows,  and 
this  was  really  all  that  mattered  to  us  then. 

205 


CUTTING  THROUGH  THE  FOREST 

It  only  remained  now  for  us  to  continue  cutting 
eastwards  through  the  forest,  on  the  chance  that  within 
a day's  march  a new  river  might  be  discovered,  one 
which,  at  the  least,  held  out  some  prospect  of  having 
its  source  near  the  snows.  The  Obota,  Mimika,  Tuaba, 
Puria,  and  Wataikwa  had  all  been  tried  and  found 
wanting.  It  was  fully  realised  that  the  longer  we 
worked  eastwards,  keeping  to  the  plains,  the  greater 
would  become  the  difficulty  of  feeding  the  working 
parties  as  soon  as  they  entered  the  mountains,  with 
the  resulting  drawbacks  of  the  extra  strain  upon  the 
wretched  coolies,  and  the  increased  danger  of  the  ad- 
vanced parties  being  cut  off  from  their  base  by  the 
flooded  and  almost  impassable  rivers  in  rear. 

There  was,  however,  no  choice  in  the  matter ; if  we 
were  to  move  forward  this  was  the  only  possible  route 
to  attempt,  despite  the  labour  it  entailed  and  the 
corresponding  loss  of  time. 

The  working  parties  were  hampered  from  the 
moment  of  beginning  the  new  work.  The  few  days 
of  fine  weather  which  had  been  experienced  on  the 
way  out  from  Parimau  now  gave  place  to  rain.  A 
steady  drift  of  mist  and  water-laden  clouds  rolled  up 
from  the  south-east,  telling  only  too  clearly  that  the 
monsoon  had  set  in  for  good.  Day  after  day  and 
night  after  night  the  deluge  continued,  not  the  cataract 
of  the  thunderstorm,  but  a steady,  persistent  fall  that 
seemed  to  have  no  end.  Mist  enveloped  everything, 
the  mountains  completely  vanished  from  new,  and  the 
river  became  impassable,  so  that  all  attempts  to  push 
forward  while  these  conditions  lasted  were  abandoned. 
Taking  to  our  tent,  Marshall  and  I did  our  best  to  keep 
our  feelings  under  control,  each  endeavouring  to  be  as 
little  nuisance  to  the  other  as  was  possible,  and  from 

206 


SIMPLE  LIFE  EXPERIMENTS 


my  point  of  view,  a more  excellent  companion  I never 
wish  to  find.  The  only  exercise  vouchsafed  to  us  con- 
sisted of  sloshy  journeys  undertaken  into  the  dripping 
jungle  in  search  of  food. 

We  were  never  burdened  with  an  excess  of  clothing, 
and  the  more  it  rained  the  less  we  wore,  for  it  meant 
the  sooner  we  would  be  dry.  In  this  warm,  equable 
climate,  clothes  are  adopted  for  decency  and  not  for 
utility ; and  this  raises  the  question  as  to  how  many 
years  would  elapse  before  a European  forced  to  live  in 
this  land  of  moisture  would  discard  all  clothing  and  live 
as  the  native.  With  the  exception  of  Wollaston,  who 
clung  fondly  to  an  ancient  khaki  covering,  coats  were 
discarded  from  the  first,  then  shirts  gave  way  to  a vest, 
trousers  to  shorts,  and  in  many  cases  boots  and  stockings, 
except  when  actually  in  the  forest,  were  considered 
superfluous.  With  bare  feet  it  is  easier  to  keep  a hold 
upon  water-worn  boulders  than  when  wearing  boots, 
and  perpetual  wetting  in  the  former  case  matters  not  in 
the  least. 

If  what  report  says  is  true,  a wealthy  German  of  the 
name  of  Englehart,  with  an  enthusiastic  following  of 
believers  in  the  simple  life,  once  tried  the  experiment  of 
living  in  the  north-east  portion  of  New  Guinea  clothed 
as  they  were  born,  and  sustained  by  the  fruits  of  the 
forest.  The  result  was  hardly  what  was  anticipated, 
for  within  a short  period  all,  with  the  exception  of  the 
leader,  had  passed  to  another  world,  or  had  been  invalided 
to  their  native  land.  It  is  only  fair,  however,  to  state 
that  it  is  believed  the  diet  of  cocoa-nuts  was  more  re- 
sponsible for  the  heavy  mortality  than  the  climatic  con- 
ditions under  which  they  lived.  Other  instances  of  the 
white  man  living  the  life  of  the  savage  are  common. 
One,  an  Englishman,  I am  told,  took  up  his  abode 

207 


A TURBULENT  STREAM 

amongst  a tribe  of  savages  near  Port  Moresby,  and 
there  lived,  cut  off  from  his  compatriots,  for  many 
years.  He  was  well  known,  if  only  for  the  peculiar 
dress  he  adopted — a grass  petticoat,  very  full  at  the 
hips,  designed  and  executed  by  himself.  He  was 
apparently  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  natives,  but  in 
the  end  suffered  the  death  of  so  many  white  men, 
being  murdered  by  his  quondam  friends  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  blood  of  a higher  quality  than  their  own, 
with  which  to  consecrate  the  pillars  of  their  new  idol- 
house  and  thereby  bring  luck  to  all  within.  We,  on 
this  present  expedition,  never  adopted  the  dress  of 
primitive  man,  but  at  the  rate  we  were  shedding 
garments  and  the  havoc  wrought  upon  them  by  the 
insects  and  the  jungle  thorns,  it  looked  as  if  we  should 
soon  be  reduced  to  these  straits,  not  from  choice  but  of 
necessity. 

In  an  endeavour  to  maintain  a link  with  the  left 
bank  of  the  Wataikwa  during  the  wet  season,  the 
Gurkhas  threw  across  a powerful  cable  made  of  rattan, 
the  ends  secured  to  immense  tree  trunks  washed  down 
months  before.  These  trees  had  the  appearance  of  being 
fixed  for  ever,  but  the  very  first  flood  after  the  cable 
was  finished  swept  the  trees  and  the  connecting  rope 
out  of  existence,  so  far  as  we  were  concerned.  It  was 
a flood  of  considerable  height,  and  gave  a vivid  demon- 
stration of  how  rivers  change  their  courses  and  alter  the 
face  of  the  country  in  the  shortest  periods.  Whole 
islands  of  vegetation,  the  result  of  landslides  in  the 
mountains,  swept  past  the  camp  at  railway  speed,  while 
acres  of  stony  promontories,  composed  of  massive 
boulders,  moved  bodily  across  and  down  stream  or 
vanished  for  ever.  In  the  midst  of  this  turmoil  our 
own  particular  island,  now  completely  isolated,  lost 

208 


HEWING  AND  CUTTING 

large  slices  of  its  perimeter,  but  was  saved  from  extinc- 
tion by  a mass  of  loose  limestone  rocks  too  great  for 
any  flood  to  move. 

A few  hours  of  quietness  and  the  river  would  fall 
with  the  same  rapidity  as  it  had  risen,  when  the  oppor- 
tunity would  be  taken  to  cross  and  continue  the  path 
cutting.  The  line  chosen  was  one  which  it  was  hoped 
would  just  miss  the  broken  slopes  of  the  foothills.  The 
direction  was  kept  by  compass  bearings,  but  at  the  best 
it  was  a plunge  into  the  dark,  as  nothing  could  be  seen 
of  the  country  to  the  east  except  the  edge  of  the  forest 
lining  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  There  were  eight  of 
us  all  told  who  were  available  for  the  work,  and  on 
account  of  the  exhausting  nature  of  forest  hewing  and 
cutting  the  party  was  divided  into  two,  working  on 
alternate  days.  Progress  was  necessarily  spasmodic,  as, 
in  addition  to  the  oft  impassable  river,  men  fell  sick  and 
there  were  none  to  replace  them,  but  wet  or  fine  the 
work,  as  long  as  there  was  the  slightest  chance  of  head- 
way being  made,  was  carried  on  without  intermission. 
As  one  man  tired  or  his  hands  gave  out  by  reason  of 
blisters  or  soreness,  his  place  was  at  once  taken  by 
another.  Over  and  over  again  were  we  compelled  to 
abandon  portions  of  the  road  as  some  particular  spur  or 
ravine,  lying  at  right  angles  to  the  line  of  advance, 
defied  all  efforts  to  construct  a practicable  path  for 
coolie  transport.  We  had  entered  a rough  and  hilly 
country  strewn  with  moss- covered  boulders  and  seamed 
with  nullahs  covered  with  an  impenetrable  mass  of 
the  closest  and  toughest  of  timber.  The  density  of 
this  growth  almost  passes  belief;  through  it  no  man 
can  force  a way  unless  with  an  axe  in  hand,  and  as 
the  majority  of  the  trees  are  of  the  hardest  wood,  the 
stems  varying  from  four  to  eight  inches  in  diameter, 

209  o 


DREARY  WORK 


and  clothed  from  top  to  bottom  with  water-laden 
earth  hidden  beneath  a cloak  of  moss,  progress  at 
times  became  impossible. 

An  idea  of  the  labour  entailed  in  the  task  of  clearing 
a two-foot  path  through  this  forest  may  be  judged  by 
the  fact  that  a stretch  of  five  thousand  yards  required 
three  weeks’  incessant  work  before  a man  could  pass 
along  without  brushing  the  stems.  On  one  day  two 
cutters  accomplished  a length  of  two  hundred  and  ten 
yards,  and  on  another,  when  I was  working  by  myself, 
all  I could  add  was  a piece  of  ninety  yards  in  length. 
More  unprofitable  and  dreary  labour  cannot  be  im- 
agined, as  except  for  the  occasional  shrill  cry  of  the 
Greater  Bird  of  Paradise  and  the  Rifle  Bird,  not  a 
sound  broke  the  stillness  of  the  forest.  Both  birds 
were  to  be  commonly  heard  upon  the  confines  of  this 
dark  and  gloomy  haunt,  but  even  they  would  seldom 
venture  into  the  heart  of  the  densest  growth.  Only 
on  the  rarest  occasions  were  they  seen,  and  then  but  for 
a moment  as  they  darted  from  one  secluded  spot  to 
another. 

Snakes  abounded,  some  poisonous  and  others  harm- 
less, while  all  the  time  mosquitoes  buzzed  around  and 
leeches  prowled  over  one’s  clothes  in  search  of  a succu- 
lent piece  of  flesh. 


210 


CHAPTER  XV 


Cheerless  prospects — Shattered  hopes — Ill-used  Gurkhas — Fresh  stores — 
A bolting  gun-bearer — Birds  of  paradise — Return  to  the  Wataikwa — 
Difficulties  of  surveying — Photographing  the  natives 


T30UT  this  period  I ceased  to  keep  a diary.  The 


daily  failure  to  find  a possible  route  was  suffi- 
ciently disappointing  without  recording  the  want  of 
success  in  writing.  Three  weeks’  wearisome  labour 
at  cutting  and  hewing  resulted  in  the  completion  of 
three  miles  of  the  narrowest  and  roughest  of  tracks. 
Up  hill  and  down,  in  the  vain  effort  to  find  an  easier 
route  or  to  work  on  a more  level  plain,  the  narrow 
road  was  slowly  pushed  forward,  without  being  re- 
warded by  a single  glimpse  of  the  mountains  or  of  a 
greater  distance  than  twenty  yards  ahead.  Can  this 
forest,  with  its  horrible  monotony  and  impregnability, 
be  equalled  by  any  other  in  the  world  ? 

As  failure  followed  failure  our  spirits  fell,  and 
conversation,  as  we  sheltered  from  the  pouring  rain, 
turned  on  the  probability  of  our  never  reaching  our 
goal.  With  barely  room  to  move,  with  the  fetid 
air  of  rotting  vegetation  to  breathe,  the  hum  of  mos- 
quitoes the  only  sound,  and  with  the  most  limited 
range  of  visions,  the  prospect  was  as  cheerless  as  it 
well  could  be.  To  make  matters  worse,  the  food- 
supply  was  running  dangerously  low,  and  the  dwind- 
ling number  of  coolies  arriving  by  each  convoy  from 
Parimau  barely  sufficed  to  bring  enough  food  to  last  till 
the  next  visit.  The  Wataikwa  was  in  continual  flood, 


211 


CHEERLESS  PROSPECTS 

rendering  the  daily  crossings  not  only  dangerous,  but 
a particularly  unpleasant  way  of  starting  a day's  work 
in  the  jungle.  Every  now  and  again,  so  fierce  would 
be  the  current  racing  past  the  camp,  that  fording  be- 
came an  impossibility  and  work  had  to  be  abandoned 
for  the  time.  Over  and  over  again  was  the  road 
paced,  first  on  going  out  in  the  morning  and  then 
again  on  the  return,  until  it  was  recognised  that  the 
path  had  so  lengthened  that  the  journey  backwards  and 
forwards  to  the  head  of  the  clearing  entailed  as  much 
labour  as  the  actual  work  itself. 

By  6th  August  three  miles  of  the  road  were  finished, 
and  it  was  realised  that  this  plan  of  starting  forth  each 
day  from  the  base  camp  on  the  Wataikwa  could  no 
longer  be  followed.  The  Gurkhas,  together  with  the 
three  Papuans  who  were  still  with  us,  were  therefore 
despatched  with  a light  camp  outfit  to  the  farthest 
point  reached,  there  to  remain  and  cut  the  path  for- 
ward till  the  Iwaka  should  be  met  with.  As  it 
happened,  this  decided  the  question  whether  we  were 
to  get  through  to  the  east  or  not.  for  hardlv  had  two 
hours  of  work  been  completed  on  the  folio-wing  day 
when  the  forest  thinned.  Pushing  forward  rapidly 
they  came  within  sound  of  the  river,  and  guided  by 
the  noise  were  soon  able  to  reach  its  banks.  The 
pioneer  party  returned  to  their  jungle  camp  at  once 
and  prepared  to  push  forward  at  daybreak. 

The  first  intimation  we  received  of  the  success  was 
the  sudden  arrival  that  night  of  the  three  Papuans. 
They  looked  as  pleased  as  Punch,  and  in  one  breath 
informed  us  that  the  Iwaka  was  found,  and  to  verify 
their  story  produced  a bunch  of  c-asuarina  twigs  (a  tree 
onlv  to  be  found  on  the  banks  of  the  largest  rivers), 
adding  at  the  same  time  the  false  report  that  they 

212 


SHATTERED  HOPES 

had  transported  the  whole  of  the  camp  kit  to  the  new 
river,  and  that  their  work  being  completed,  they  had 
been  sent  back  by  the  Gurkhas.  We  were  delighted 
at  the  news,  and  congratulating  ourselves  that  at  last 
we  had  found  faithful  and  trustworthy  men,  paid  them 
accordingly  and  dismissed  them  to  their  homes.  Alas  ! 
our  hopes  in  this  respect  were  quickly  shattered. 

Starting  alone  at  daybreak,  in  three  hours  I reached 
the  forest  camping  ground,  which  I expected  to  find 
cold  and  dreary,  but  where  to  my  surprise  the  fire 
was  found  to  be  still  burning.  Pushing  rapidly  along 
the  freshly-cut  trail,  the  Gurkhas  were  soon  found, 
each  man  staggering  under  a load  as  heavy  as  him- 
self. Their  tempers  were  not  of  the  best,  and  had 
the  natives  then  appeared  I would  not  have  answered 
for  the  consequences.  From  them  I learnt  that  the 
wily  Papuans,  without  saying  a word,  had  slipped  away 
the  night  before  to  avoid  the  labour  of  carrying  the 
loads  to  the  Iwaka,  and  to  receive  full  pay  for  work 
not  yet  accomplished.  They  had  rightly  reckoned 
that  we  could  not  at  once  verify  their  story,  and  know- 
ing that  we  paid  immediately  on  the  completion  of 
any  task,  had  determined  to  risk  the  lie.  For  the  time 
they  had  the  better  of  us. 

Into  my  sympathetic  ears  the  tale  of  woe  was 
poured  by  the  ill-used  Gurkhas,  after  which  outburst, 
their  feelings  being  somewhat  relieved,  the  loads  were 
readjusted  and  within  two  hours  we  were  upon  the 
river’s  banks,  gazing  at  a yellow-stained  torrent  as  it 
raced  between  stony  shores.  The  volume  of  water 
coming  down  was  about  equal  to  that  of  the  Wataikwa 
or  Tuaba,  but  offered  a far  more  serious  obstacle  to  a 
passage,  as  instead  of  dividing  into  many  channels, 
each  of  which  might  be  crossed  in  turn,  it  was  here 

213 


FRESH  STORES 


confined  to  a single  bed  seventy  to  eighty  yards  in 
width.  In  such  a current  no  canoe  could  hope  to  live, 
and  fording  was  out  of  the  question.  The  forest  grew 
right  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and  as  far  as  we  could 
see  there  were  no  shoals  or  branching  streams. 

A site  for  a new  camp  was  soon  chosen,  and  leaving 
instructions  for  a thorough  search  to  be  made  for  a 
ford,  I returned  to  the  Wataikwa,  dead  beat. 

During  my  temporary  absence  Goodfellow  had 
arrived,  bringing  with  him  a welcome  supply  of  fresh 
stores  which  had  just  arrived  from  England,  and  of 
such  a tempting  appearance  that  the  case  had  to  be 
opened  then  and  there.  Parimau  natives  had  brought 
out  Goodfellow's  stores,  as  none  of  our  own  coolies 
were  free  for  transport  work  in  the  forest.  As  usual 
the  Papuans  were  in  a wild  hurry  to  return  to  their 
wives,  but  a judicious  bribe  on  the  following  morn- 
ing induced  them  to  carry  my  kit  over  to  the  spot 
where  the  Gurkhas  were  camped,  the  loads  weighing 
almost  nothing,  as  my  tent  had  vanished  into  dust 
weeks  before,  of  such  indifferent  material  had  it  been 
made,  and  I was  trying  the  experiment  of  sleeping 
under  whatever  the  inhospitable  jungle  would  provide. 
A leaf  hut  may  be  artistic,  but  it  is  a most  uncomfort- 
able habitation  in  heavy  rain. 

My  object  in  moving  to  the  Iwaka  for  a few  days 
was  to  try  and  discover  a ford  or  some  means  by  which 
the  river  could  be  crossed.  Three  days  were  spent  in 
the  search  but  without  success,  the  river  being  a torrent 
without  a single  branch  which  would  have  divided  the 
volume  of  the  waters.  Four  or  five  miles  was  the 
farthest  point  reached  up-stream,  as  the  natives  flatly 
refused  to  carry  the  loads  a step  farther  or  to  surmount 
the  smallest  hill.  Some  great  fear  seemed  to  lay  hold 

214 


A BOLTING  GUN-BEARER 

of  them  whenever  such  a thing  was  proposed,  but 
exactly  what  it  was  they  were  afraid  of  we  never  could 
tell. 

For  a few  moments  one  day  I thought  I had  over- 
come their  objection  to  climbing,  as  after  a little  per- 
suasion the  native  who  was  carrying  the  gun  agreed  to 
clamber  to  the  summit  of  a small  100-feet  landslide. 
An  excellent  but  limited  view  was  here  obtained,  but 
before  I had  got  properly  to  work  with  the  glasses  a 
clatter  of  stones  drew  my  attention  elsewhere.  My 
brave  carrier  was  racing  down  the  hillside,  leaping  over 
the  hollows  and  fallen  timber  in  his  anxiety  to  reach 
the  bottom,  where,  regardless  of  our  appeals,  he  dashed 
into  the  undergrowth  and  vanished.  The  sound  of 
breaking  branches  told  only  too  clearly  of  the  wild 
career  that  was  being  urged  forward.  His  flight  would 
have  mattered  little  had  he  left  the  gun  behind,  but 
reasoning  that  with  this  weapon  in  our  hands  he  might 
be  shot  and  that  if  he  carried  it  along  with  him  we 
could  do  no  possible  harm,  he  had  enough  cunning  to 
realise  which  was  the  safer  course.  To  lose  the  gun 
in  this  way  was  quite  annoying  enough,  but  it  was 
particularly  vexatious  at  this  time,  as  on  it  depended 
the  entire  supply  of  meat. 

On  arrival  in  camp  some  hours  later  the  first  thing 
that  caught  my  eye  was  the  gun  leaning  against  my  hut 
and  the  faithless  carrier  squatting  close  by,  an  appeas- 
ing grin  spread  over  his  features.  He  was  not  in  the 
least  abashed  at  his  behaviour,  and  attempted  no  ex- 
planation ; to  this  day  I have  not  the  slightest  idea  why 
he  bolted,  as  he  had  been  asked  to  do  nothing  extra- 
ordinary, and  must  have  known  that  he  would  lose  his 
pay  for  that  day’s  work  at  least.  To  punish  them  all, 
as  no  one  seemed  in  the  slightest  concerned  over  the 

215 


BIRDS  OF  PARADISE 


matter,  the  nightly  ration  was  stopped,  much  to  their 
disgust.  The  lesson  was  not  as  effective  as  it  might 
have  been,  as  on  the  way  home  we  had  killed  a twelve- 
foot  python.  It  was  discovered  lying  along  a branch  of 
a tree,  its  head  hanging  down  a foot  or  two,  ready  to  seize 
whatever  might  pass  beneath.  It  might  have  been  dead 
for  all  the  notice  it  took  of  the  stealthy  approach  of  the 
Gurkha  who,  with  one  swinging  blow  of  a pole,  broke 
its  neck.  Two  natives  had  remained  below  when  the 
faithless  gun-bearer  had  bolted,  and  these  seized  greedily 
upon  the  snake,  severing  its  head  from  the  body  with 
the  sharp  edge  of  a piece  of  split  cane.  Even  after  the 
removal  of  the  skin  the  great  body  turned  and  writhed 
amongst  the  rocks,  and  not  till  it  had  been  cut  up  in 
pieces  a foot  long  did  the  contortions  cease.  To  make 
my  punishment  still  less  effective  the  Papuans  sallied 
forth  at  dusk  and  added  a repulsive-looking  iguana  and 
a dozen  prawns  to  their  unappetising  meal. 

During  our  absence  the  other  Gurkha  had  been  out 
with  the  small  collecting  gun,  and  had  the  good  fortune 
to  see  many  of  the  glorious  Greater  Birds  of  Paradise 
dancing  in  the  trees  to  the  south  of  the  camp.  None 
were  shot,  as  the  range  was  too  great,  but  he  had  had  the 
satisfaction  of  watching  for  many  hours  this  fascinating 
display  of  plumage.  On  one  tree  alone  nine  cocks  were 
dancing  and  on  another  tree  five,  the  hens  perched  on 
the  branches  round  about  and  egging  them  on  by  a 
succession  of  piercing  calls.  These  splendid  birds  were 
here  very  numerous,  and  as  they  showed  no  fear  of  man, 
gave  to  the  onlooker  beneath  the  tree  a most  delightful 
exhibition  of  their  methods  of  courtship. 

Birds  of  Paradise  have  been  known  to  Europeans 
for  many  centuries,  and  in  the  olden  times  were 
believed,  by  those  who  visited  the  island,  to  have  no 
legs  and  to  live  continually  in  the  skies.  This  idea  was 

216 


Greater  Bird  of  Paradise 

Throat  green  ; crown  orange-yellow  ; breast,  wings,  and  tail  chestnut ; and  long  flank  feathers 
of  the  richest  golden  yellow. 


RETURN  TO  THE  WATAIKWA 


impressed  upon  the  travellers’  minds  by  the  fact  that 
the  skins,  purchased  from  the  savages  with  whom  they 
came  in  touch,  had  already  had  the  legs  removed,  but 
for  what  reason  no  one  knows  ; perhaps  it  was  because 
the  large  and  rather  ungainly  feet  detract  from  the 
perfect  beauty  of  the  bird.1 

Hundreds  of  these  skins  are  exported  annually  from 
New  Guinea  and  the  Aru  Islands,  although  in  the  latter 
place  so  indiscriminate  has  been  the  slaughter  that  the 
trade  had  diminished  by  90  per  cent.  When  it  is  remem- 
bered that  the  female  lays  only  one  egg  during  the 
nesting  season,  and  that  the  males  do  not  come  to  full 
plumage  until  three  years  of  age,  it  will  be  seen  that 
unless  the  sale  is  entirely  prohibited  in  the  future,  the 
extinction  of  this  exquisite  bird  is  merely  a matter  of 
time.  No  more  beautiful  sight  can  be  witnessed  than 
that  of  a full-grown  male,  with  his  great  yellow  breast 
plumes  passing  upwards  between  the  outstretched  wings 
and  forming  a quivering  arch  over  his  body,  dancing  up 
and  down  before  the  female,  and  doing  his  utmost  to 
win  her  heart. 

Had  we  stayed  longer  the  natives  would  have  de- 
serted, so  packing  camp  on  the  third  day  we  passed 
back  to  the  Wataikwa,  Marshall  having  already  returned 
to  Parimau,  to  which  place  I soon  followed  him,  as  our 
one  idea  now  was  to  accumulate  stores  on  the  Wataikwa, 
and  the  fewer  mouths  were  there  to  feed  the  sooner 
would  the  work  be  completed.  Goodfellow  had  to 
remain  behind  suffering  from  fever.  The  change  of  scene 
had  done  him  no  good  ; but  as  this  camp  was  looked 
upon  as  the  healthiest  in  the  district,  it  was  better  that 
he  should  stay  here  than  live  in  the  closed-in  forest. 

While  on  the  Wataikwa  and  Iwaka  rivers  the 
survey,  except  for  plane-table  work,  had  been  almost  at 

1 Its  name  Paradisea  Apoda  is  sufficient  to  prove  this. 

217 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  SURVEYING 

a standstill,  as  the  mountains  were  never  seen,  and  the 
journeys  had  been  confined  to  the  forest. 

To  those  who  know  not  the  obstacles  and  difficulties 
encountered  when  carrying  on  a survey  in  the  densely- 
timbered  tropics,  and  particularly  to  those  who  in  the 
years  to  come  will  enter  New  Guinea  for  the  purpose 
of  mapping  her  unknown  mountains,  rivers,  swamps 
and  snows,  I will  mention  a few  of  the  more  important 
points  which  were  for  ever  being  impressed  upon  us 
while  working  in  the  Mimika  and  adjacent  districts. 

The  rainfall  is  heavy  throughout  New  Guinea,  but 
on  account  of  the  proximity  of  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  central  range,  it  is  probable  that  the  fall  in  the 
Mimika  district  is  in  excess  of  that  in  any  other  area, 
fewer  opportunities  being  thereby  offered  for  the  taking 
of  astronomical  observations.  No  chance,  however 
fleeting,  must  ever  be  missed. 

In  the  year  1910  no  star  was  visible  from  early 
in  March  to  the  end  of  May ; and  again,  from  10th 
June  to  the  third  week  in  October,  at  no  hour  of  the 
day  or  night  were  the  heavens  free  from  an  impene- 
trable pall  of  clouds.  During  the  remaining  months 
rain  fell  daily  in  the  afternoons  and  evenings,  and  clouds 
covered  the  mountains  within  an  hour  or  so  of  daybreak. 
Under  these  conditions,  and  with  the  sun,  when  on  the 
meridian,  nearly  overhead,  it  can  be  realised  how  hard 
it  was  to  obtain  accurate  astronomical  observations. 
The  theodolite  and  plane-table  must  be  in  position  by 
the  time  the  sun’s  first  glow  is  to  be  seen  in  the  east, 
and  the  work  taken  in  hand  immediately  the  prominent 
points  can  be  clearly  distinguished.  Any  delay  over 
this  and  the  opportunity  is  lost,  not  to  recur  for  another 
twenty-four  hours.  One  may  in  the  early  mornings 
obtain  a clear  view  for  a period  ranging  from  a quarter 
of  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a half ; rarely  longer.  These 

218 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  SURVEYING 

drawbacks  are,  however,  by  no  means  the  most  import- 
ant, the  chief  obstacle  of  all  being  the  density  of  the 
forest  and  the  impossibility  of  finding  in  the  plains  any 
elevated  point  from  whence  a view  can  be  obtained. 

The  only  practical  positions  vouchsafed  by  nature 
throughout  the  plains  are  any  spits  of  sand  running  out 
to  sea  and  a straight  stretch  of  river.  The  former 
allows  of  a wide  view,  but  too  distant  for  accurate  detail 
except  where  the  peaks  show  up  against  the  skyline  ; the 
latter  position  a restricted  range  of  vision,  seldom  con- 
taining more  than  two  or  three  of  the  required  points. 
It  therefore  behoves  the  surveyor  to  construct  some 
vantage  point  from  whence  a clear  view  may  be  obtained 
to  all  the  peaks  required.  To  do  this  the  forest  must  be 
cleared,  a feat  only  to  be  accomplished  after  months  of 
strenuous  and  persistent  work ; and  it  was  this  plan 
that  we  adopted.  A measured  base  line  is  out  of  the 
question,  for  even  if  a thousand  feet  line  was  cut,  two 
more  would  still  be  necessary — one  from  either  end  to- 
wards the  points  to  be  fixed — and  even  then  they  would 
be  unlikely  to  bring  within  view  more  than  one  or  two 
of  the  mountain  peaks.  The  plan  adopted  by  us  was 
as  follows. 

We  took  the  longitude,  as  assumed  by  the  Dutch 
authorities,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mimika,  where  a con- 
venient spit  of  sand  ran  far  out  to  sea,  and  there 
obtained  the  latitude  and  the  azimuth  of  Tapiro  Peak. 
That  was  simple  enough  ; now  came  the  difficulty  of  an 
artificial  clearing.  At  Parimau,  distant  twenty-one 
miles  in  a direct  line  from  the  coast,  it  was  early  realised 
that  if  the  forest  could  be  levelled  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
camp,  a view  of  the  entire  range  of  mountains  to  the 
north  and  east  could  be  obtained,  and  for  this  purpose 
every  available  coolie  and  every  savage  who  could  be 
persuaded  was  put  on  to  the  work  of  felling  trees. 

219 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  SURVEYING 

For  five  months  the  cutting  continued,  sometimes 
with  only  three  or  four  men  working,  at  other  times 
twenty  or  more,  and  never  a day  passed  without  the 
crash  of  falling  trees  breaking  on  one’s  ear.  In  all  four- 
teen acres  of  the  densest  forest  vanished,  giving  as  we  had 
hoped  a full  and  perfect  view  of  Carstensz  and  almost 
the  entire  Nassau  Range.  Here  the  latitude  was 
obtained  and  the  azimuth  of  Tapiro  Peak  taken.  To 
ensure  great  accuracy  the  astronomical  and  triangula- 
tion work  was  done  over  and  over  again,  and  on  this 
base  of  twenty-one  miles  was  the  map  built  up. 
Heights  were  found  by  theodolite  vertical  angles. 
Plane-table  work  was  carried  on  where  and  whenever 
a chance  offered,  sometimes  hardly  a line  being  added, 
at  others  a few  square  miles,  until  at  length  the  work 
was  finished.  The  rivers  were  plotted  from  the  angles 
taken  by  the  prismatic  compass,  the  distances  being 
judged  by  eye,  a very  satisfactory  way,  after  a little 
practice.  The  instruments  had  been  supplied  by  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  and  were  of  course  of  the 
best  description,  but  a lighter  plane-table  would  have 
been  preferable  under  the  circumstances  in  which  we 
were  placed. 

In  a country  such  as  this,  where  every  pound  of 
weight  alters  the  speed  and  the  distance  covered,  the 
lightest  surveying  equipment  should  be  used.  Reeves’ 
Distance  Finder  Telescope  and  Astronomical  Compass 
were  invaluable.  I have  heard,  but  cannot  vouch  for 
the  truth  of  the  story,  that  the  Dutch  expedition  work- 
ing to  the  east  of  us  had  the  fortune  to  find  a single 
flat-topped  hill  bare  of  vegetation  upon  which  a base 
was  measured,  but  if  this  is  so,  the  case  must  be  unique 
in  the  island  of  N ew  Guinea. 

Photography  was  likewise  much  hindered  by  the 
clouds  and  the  excessive  rain.  Sunlight  was  almost  a 

220 


PHOTOGRAPHING  THE  NATIVES 

necessity  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  con- 
trasts of  light,  as  figures  with  the  dark  jungle  as  a 
background  showed  up  most  indistinctly.  The  moist 
air  played  havoc  with  plates  and  films  alike,  and  com- 
pelled us  not  only  to  expose  the  plates  immediately 
they  were  placed  in  the  camera,  but  to  waste  no  time  in 
developing  them. 

It  was  not  till  we  showed  them  the  picture  reflected 
in  the  “ finders  ” that  the  Papuans  comprehended  at  all 
the  use  of  the  black  boxes  which  were  always  being 
carried  about ; but  they  were  quick  to  learn  that  when 
the  lens  pointed  towards  them  it  was  for  some  particular 
purpose,  and  to  this  many  offered  strong  objection, 
scurrying  to  their  huts  like  a lot  of  rabbits  as  soon  as 
the  camera  appeared.  I can  only  assume  that  someone 
who  had  been  ill  suddenly  became  better  after  having 
had  his  portrait  taken,  as  all  at  once,  instead  of  running 
away  they  actually  placed  themselves  in  front  of  the 
camera  and  assumed  extravagant  postures  of  their  own. 
Once  when  Marshall  was  working  the  cinematograph 
and  I was  holding  two  terrified  babies  in  my  arms  to  be 
photographed,  instead  of  the  women  being  frightened, 
every  mother  rushed  off  for  her  offspring  and  dragged 
the  screaming  youngsters  towards  us,  begging  that  they 
might  take  their  turn  and  be  treated  likewise.  After 
they  had  seen  a few  of  the  ordinary  photographs  of 
their  friends,  they  were  more  difficult  to  take  in  natural 
positions,  and  would  pose  themselves  in  such  awkward 
attitudes  as  to  render  any  portrait  valueless.  An  indi- 
vidual selected  for  a photograph  would  adopt  an  air  of 
superiority  over  his  comrades,  and  when  he  had  learnt 
what  was  required  would  remain  perfectly  still  till  all 
was  finished,  maintaining  throughout  the  operation 
such  a self-satisfied  air  as  to  annoy  his  friends  and  put 
a stop  to  further  work  for  the  day. 

221 


CHAPTER  XVI 


Floods  at  Parimau — A burial — Depressing  circumstances — A successful 
clearing — Natives’  idea  of  supply  and  demand — Mosquitoes  and  leeches 
— The  value  of  medicine — Mortality  of  the  expedition  — Beri-beri — 
Malaria 

ON  reaching  the  Mimika  it  was  clear  that  a storm  of 
exceptional  violence  had  but  lately  swept  down 
the  valley,  all  the  more  remarkable  from  the  fact  that 
nothing  unusual  had  occurred  on  the  Wataikwa,  a short 
eighteen  miles  to  the  east.  For  the  two  previous  months 
rain  had  fallen  every  day,  and  nearly  all  day,  and  though 
much  damage  had  been  done  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
no  one  dreamt  that  any  flood  could  possibly  reach 
the  floors  of  our  Parimau  huts,  situated  as  they  were 
fifteen  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  water. 

So  exceptional,  however,  was  the  downpour  on 
18th  August,  that  not  a single  foot  of  the  country  re- 
mained above  the  level  of  the  overflowing  rivers.  At 
10  p.m.  the  storm,  which  had  been  brewing  amongst  the 
hills,  burst  over  Parimau,  and  developed  into  a regular 
cataract  of  falling  water  at  midnight.  From  now 
onwards  the  incessant  peals  of  thunder  put  sleep  out 
of  the  question.  The  black  eddying  river,  lit  up  by  the 
vivid  flashes  of  lightning,  could  be  seen  gliding  irresist- 
ibly past,  its  surface  covered  with  uprooted  trees  hurry- 
ing towards  the  sea,  giving  forth  no  sound  but  the 
insuck  of  the  whirlpools,  and  the  muffled  splashes  of  the 
undermined  banks  as  they  fell  forward  in  great  slices 
and  vanished  from  sight.  With  the  roar  of  the  elements 

222 


FLOODS  AT  PARIMAU 


were  mingled  the  terrified  cries  of  the  Papuans  in  the 
village  opposite.  Already  the  waters  were  over  the 
floors  of  their  huts,  whilst,  by  the  flickering  light  of  the 
torches,  ghostly  figures  could  be  distinguished  working 
wildly  to  save  their  stock  of  worldly  goods. 

The  rise  continued  with  alarming  rapidity. 

Into  the  canoes  which  were  now  floating  alongside 
the  huts  were  cast  every  animate  and  inanimate  object, 
including  the  dying  headman  of  the  village,  whose  ster- 
torous breathing  could  be  distinctly  heard  across  the 
river.  With  their  more  portable  goods  safely  afloat, 
the  frenzied  men  turned  their  attention  to  saving  what 
they  could  of  the  houses,  by  lashing  the  strips  of  mat 
roofing  to  the  tree-trunks  or  casting  them  into  the 
branches  overhead.  As  the  storm  slackened  and  black 
darkness  took  the  place  of  the  blinding  flashes,  so  the 
cries  of  the  panic-stricken  natives  increased.  Nothing 
now  could  be  distinguished  in  the  gloom,  and  no  reason 
could  be  given  for  the  new  outburst  of  fear,  until,  by 
the  light  of  our  own  flickering  candles,  the  water  was 
seen  to  have  risen  over  the  top  of  our  bank  and  to  be 
flowing  through  our  own  huts,  proving  only  too  clearly 
that  the  native  village  was  entirely  submerged. 

Our  own  bank  was  crumbling  so  rapidly  that  the 
walls  of  our  huts  threatened  to  collapse  at  any  moment, 
since  the  supports  were  resting  upon  nothing  but  the 
projecting  roots  of  trees  felled  long  previously.  With 
what  anxious  eyes  we  watched  the  tottering  beams,  pre- 
pared at  a moment’s  notice  to  run  for  it  should  the  land 
begin  to  slide.  This  last  action,  however,  proved  un- 
necessary, as  soon  afterwards  the  water  began  to  fall, 
until  by  daybreak  five  or  six  feet  of  our  bank  were  bare. 
On  the  opposite  side,  which,  as  I said,  was  considerably 
lower  than  ours,  not  a square  foot  of  land  was  visible ; 

223 


A BURIAL 

the  village  had  completely  vanished,  and  where  it  had 
once  stood  floated  a dozen  overladen  canoes. 

The  dawn  was  ushered  in  by  a chorus  of  wails,  for 
the  natu  had  departed  to  a better  world,  his  end  no 
doubt  hastened  by  the  terrors  of  the  past  night.  Poor 
old  man,  he  had  been  expected  to  die  days  before,  and 
so  certain  were  his  friends  that  it  was  but  a matter  of 
hours,  that  they  had  already  dug  and  prepared  his  grave. 

To  And  a landing-place,  some  of  the  more  energetic 
natives  set  out  with  their  canoes  along  the  outskirts  of 
the  forest,  but  soon  relinquished  the  task  as  hopeless, 
and  returned  to  their  old  anchorage  in  the  trees.  The 
canoes  presented  a weird  appearance,  piled  high  as  they 
were  with  a miscellaneous  jumble  of  kerosene  tins, 
women,  weapons,  and  rags,  while  over  all  scrambled 
the  babies  and  dogs.  With  the  coming  of  the  daylight 
all  fear  of  a disaster  vanished,  the  spirits  of  the  natives 
regained  their  phlegmatic  calm  and,  before  an  hour  had 
passed,  tires  were  burning  in  the  stern  of  each  canoe  and 
the  eternal  sago-balls  were  blackening  on  the  embers. 

It  was  a sad  scene  all  the  same,  and  all  the  more 
depressing  by  the  continual  wailing  of  the  dead  man's 
relatives.  Later  on  in  the  day,  when  the  land  was  once 
more  exposed,  the  body,  wrapped  in  leaves  and  bits  of 
old  matting,  was  placed  on  a platform  which  had  been 
hastily  erected  close  at  hand,  and  the  people,  dispensing 
with  what  little  clothing  is  customary,  plastered  them- 
selves with  mud  and  mourned  to  the  setting  of  the  sun. 
On  this  platform  the  corpse  remained  for  two  days,  and 
was  then  transferred,  firstly  into  a canoe-shaped  coffin, 
and  then  into  a newly-dug  grave.  Although  placed 
two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  surrounding 
ground,  the  coffin  was  not  closed,  nor  was  the  grave 
filled  in.  Fresh  obsequies  attended  the  removal,  and 

224 


A Patriarch 

The  oldest  man  of  the  up-river  tribes,  who,  on  account  of  his  age,  wielded  a wooden  instead  of 

a stone  club. 


A BURIAL 


since  the  dead  patriarch  was  a man  of  influence,  more 
rites  were  paid  him  than  is  usual  in  these  parts. 

For  the  first  time  since  the  death  the  deceased’s 
wife  and  sister  appeared,  and,  in  the  same  state  of  nudity 
as  the  more  distant  relatives,  crawled  on  hands  and 
knees  to  the  place  of  interment.  As  far  as  we  could 
make  out,  their  duty  was  to  turn  over  the  body  daily, 
with  the  supposed  object  of  hastening  decomposition. 
Painted  and  decorated  posts  were  erected  at  the  head 
and  feet  of  the  grave,  and  the  whole  fenced  in.  From 
time  to  time  visitors  on  arrival  and  departure  demon- 
strated their  respect  for  the  deceased  by  the  usual 
lamentations  at  the  grave-side,  occasionally  adding 
vines  and  fresh  branches  to  the  already  thickly-en- 
twined railings,  in  very  much  the  same  way  as  wreaths 
are  brought  to  a funeral  in  England. 

The  grave  was  never  filled  in,  and  though  the 
stench  from  the  decomposing  body  was  terrible,  yet  no 
disgust  was  shown  by  the  natives  living  close  at  hand, 
nor  were  the  cooking  and  usual  household  arrangements 
interfered  with  in  any  way. 

The  new  village  was  fated  to  stand  but  a short  time, 
as  ten  days  later  a fresh  storm  swept  over  the  valley, 
fortunately  of  not  quite  such  severity  as  the  last,  but 
still  sufficient  to  destroy  the  whole  of  the  newly  con- 
structed huts.  By  the  end  of  August  the  solid  land 
in  front  had  vanished,  and  the  once  broad  and  airy 
village  had  shrunk  to  a slender  line  of  hovels,  balanced 
upon  the  edge  of  a crumbling  bank.  The  natives 
themselves,  used  I suppose  to  this  kind  of  treatment, 
took  no  trouble  to  save  what  little  land  had  remained, 
and  never  ventured  to  copy  the  retaining  wall  of 
timber  we  found  it  necessary  to  erect  to  prevent  our 
own  houses  from  toppling  into  the  river. 

225 


P 


DEPRESSING  CIRCUMSTANCES 

At  heart  we  were  as  depressed  as  the  natives,  for 
without  fresh  coolies  we  could  do  nothing.  Nineteen 
tired  men  were  all  we  now  had  in  the  country,  a quite 
insufficient  force  to  move  us  even  one  march  into  the 
hills,  let  alone  the  main  range  lying  many  miles  behind. 
Months  of  inactivity  stared  us  in  the  face,  months 
during  which  one's  strength  would  continue  to  diminish, 
together  with  the  crushing  knowledge  that  our  goal 
was  receding  farther  and  farther  into  the  dim  distance. 
The  one  bright  spot  was  the  welcome  supply  of  fresh 
stores  from  England,  and  of  this  the  pleasure  afforded 
can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  suffered 
from  the  want  of  the  bare  necessities  of  life,  or  who 
have  existed  upon  tinned  herrings  and  salmon  for 
months  on  end. 

With  this  supply  of  good  things  came  Shortridge 
back  from  his  trip  to  Australia,  to  all  outward  appear- 
ance quite  recovered  from  his  severe  bout  of  malaria, 
but,  that  the  germs  of  this  disease  cannot  be  so  rapidly 
eradicated  from  the  system,  was  soon  shown  by  fresh 
attacks  which  took  place  within  three  weeks  of  his 
landing.  There  also  arrived  Mr.  C.  H.  Grant,  a natur- 
alist of  considerable  experience,  sent  out  from  home 
to  replace  the  late  Mr.  Stalker,  who  lost  his  life  at 
Wakatimi  early  in  the  expedition. 

In  this  enforced  state  of  inactivity  the  natives  who 
were  willing  to  work  and  all  who  could  be  persuaded 
to  lend  a hand,  were  set  to  clear  the  forest  round  the 
camp  and  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river.  This  work 
had  been  started  with  the  threefold  object  of  rendering 
the  camp  more  healthy,  employing  the  time  of  the 
unoccupied  coolies,  and  with  the  hope  that  a view 
might  eventually  be  obtained  of  the  snows.  This 
latter  object,  from  a survey  point  of  view,  was  most 

226 


A SUCCESSFUL  CLEARING 

important,  as  from  no  other  point,  except  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mimika  River,  had  the  mountains  been  seen. 
Without  this  second  view  the  task  of  fixing’  the  promi- 
nent points  and  ascertaining  their  heights  was  impos- 
sible, and  no  certain  knowledge  of  the  obstacles  which 
lay  ahead  could  be  gleaned  from  the  short  incursions 
which  had  already  been  made  into  the  hills.  This 
clearing  when  finished  was  one  of  the  best  bits  of  work 
undertaken  while  we  were  in  the  country,  and  was 
carried  on  with  such  steady  and  systematic  persever- 
ance that  at  the  end  not  a tree  remained  to  impede  the 
view  of  Carstensz,  Idenburg,  and  the  whole  of  the  great 
peaks  of  the  Nassau  Range. 

At  this  work  of  tree  cutting  the  Mimika  Papuan  is 
in  his  element.  His  one  ambition  in  life  seems  to  be 
that  of  felling  trees  with  a steel  axe,  and  as  long  as  he 
can  do  this  he  is  perfectly  happy.  To  be  able  to  do 
it  in  comfort,  close  to  his  home,  to  chat  and  smoke 
between  whiles,  and  to  be  paid  for  it  in  addition,  is  real 
bliss.  And  when  one  comes  to  look  at  it  in  his  light, 
and  to  try  even  the  task  of  splitting  fire-wood  with  a 
heavy  blunt  stone  axe,  his  joy  in  wielding  five  pounds 
of  sharpened  steel  is  not  to  be  wondered  at.  Fourteen 
acres,  for  such  was  the  extent  cleared  in  five  months, 
sounds  little,  but  the  task  was  in  reality  a stupendous 
one,  as  those  who  have  seen  dense  tropical  jungle  will 
agree,  particularly  when,  as  in  this  case,  many  of  the 
trees  were  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  in  circumference, 
and  were  hard  enough  to  defy  our  united  efforts  for 
days  at  a time. 

Though  they  longed  to  own  these  axes  themselves, 
only  on  two  occasions  did  they  attempt  to  steal  them, 
and  when  they  borrowed  one  would  always  return  it. 
The  first  axes  given  to  the  men  of  Parimau  were  in 

227 


SUPPLY  AND  DEMAND 


exchange  for  canoes,  and  the  addition  of  these  tools  to 
their  limited  stock  started  a very  fever  of  canoe  build- 
ing. By  borrowing  others  from  our  camp  fresh  fuel 
was  added  to  their  ardour,  until  canoes  became  a glut 
in  the  market.  When  our  fleet  of  boats  were  sufficient 
in  number,  we  naturally  enough  would  buy  no  more, 
but  this  simple  proof  of  the  law  of  supply  and 
demand  the  natives  could  never  fathom.  It  was  the 
same  in  other  respects.  If  a bunch  of  fish  was  pur- 
chased, strings  of  men  would  continue  to  arrive  at 
short  intervals  each  with  other  bunches ; they  were 
astounded  when  no  more  were  bought,  and  could  never 
be  made  to  understand  that  we  had  enough  for  our 
present  requirements.  Once  any  fish  were  refused  they 
decided  that  no  more  were  needed  for  weeks  to  come, 
and  not  a fish  would  be  seen,  although  asked  for  almost 
daily.  So  it  was  when  a turtle  was  bought  for  the 
reptile  collection,  turtles  poured  in.  The  same  with 
stone  clubs,  sago,  kc. ; but  the  only  thing  we  would 
never  have  refused  were  bananas,  and  of  these  there 
were  seldom  sufficient.  The  coolies,  sick  to  death  of 
their  eternal  rice  and  half-decomposed  salt  fish,  were 
ready  to  give  every  stitch  of  clothing  for  the  fruit, 
regardless  of  the  after  consequences  of  having  nothing 
to  wear  or  to  sleep  upon. 

A scarcity  of  clothing  to  the  coolies  would  have 
been  rather  an  advantage  than  otherwise,  had  it  not 
rendered  them  more  vulnerable  to  the  attacks  of  insects, 
and  particularly  those  of  the  malarial  mosquito.  When 
camping  for  the  night  on  a new  patch  of  ground,  unless 
the  jungle  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  cleared  of  low 
scrub,  the  assaults  of  the  clouds  of  mosquitoes  are  irre- 
sistible, putting  sleep  out  of  the  question  and  laying 
up  a stock  of  sickness  for  the  days  to  come.  The 

228 


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Idle  Slothful  Savage”  “Bov  Scouts”— Parimau  Boys  armed  with  Clubs  and  Spears 


MOSQUITOES  AND  LEECHES 

slightest  clearing  affords  some  alleviation  from  the 
attacks,  and  if  the  forest  is  levelled  for  from  fifty  to  a 
hundred  yards  round  the  habitations,  the  obnoxious 
pest  is  entirely  eradicated.  Opinions  differ  as  to  how 
far  mosquitoes  will  travel  from  the  spot  of  their  birth  ; 
some  say  fifty,  others  two  hundred  yards,  but  my  idea  is 
that  in  the  district  in  which  we  were  working  the  limit 
is  about  a hundred.  I have  heard  it  remarked  that 
one  can  always  distinguish  an  anopheles  mosquito  (the 
malarial  species)  from  its  innocuous  brother  by  the 
upright  position  it  assumes,  as  though  it  were  standing 
on  its  head ; such  a fact  may  be  of  scientific  interest, 
but  as  the  insect  is  never  seen  until  the  bite  has  been 
felt  and  the  harm  done,  such  a discovery  is  not  of 
much  practical  value.  Contrary  to  popular  belief, 
they  apparently  enjoy  tobacco  fumes ; and  the  smoke 
of  fires,  unless  so  dense  as  to  choke  a human  being, 
only  serves  to  warn  off  the  most  sensitive. 

The  remaining  species,  though  very  annoying,  do  no 
serious  harm  and  are  little  heeded  by  the  savage,  as  even 
their  worst  sting  will  never  leave  a wound  equal  to  that 
of  the  mildest  leech.  The  bite  of  a leech  affects  a native 
worse  than  anyone  else,  for  although  his  skin  is  tougher 
than  that  of  other  men,  yet  the  dirty  state  of  his  body 
increases  the  chances  of  infection  from  other  sources. 
In  the  majority  of  cases  the  sores  increase  until  they 
become  really  serious  wounds,  to  check  which  they  take 
no  precautions,  except  when  we  were  present,  when  they 
would  beg  for  ointment  and  a dressing — particularly 
the  dressing — from  the  medicine  chest.  Even  if  the 
ointment  did  no  good,  they  reasoned  they  could  still 
remove  the  dressing  and  use  it  as  a head  ornament. 

As  is  the  case  with  most  native  races,  medicine  in 
any  form  was  much  appreciated  by  imported  man  and 

229 


VALUE  OF  MEDICINE 

Papuan  alike.  The  former  thought  it  his  duty,  as  the 
superior  creature,  to  make  as  much  fuss  as  possible  over 
taking  the  drug,  but  liked  to  be  given  it  all  the  same. 
The  Papuan,  on  the  other  hand,  seemed  to  enjoy  the 
process,  and  would  ask  to  be  doctored  whenever  oppor- 
tunity offered ; but  he  was  an  unsatisfactory  creature 
upon  whom  to  confer  a benefit  and  evinced  no  spark  of 
gratitude  for  favours  received,  as  Marshall  found  on  one 
occasion  in  particular.  During  the  month  of  May  he 
gave  some  harmless  medicine  to  a woman  who  com- 
plained of  headache.  She  soon  got  well  and  worked  on 
steadily  for  another  four  or  five  weeks,  then  sickened 
and  died.  For  this  the  husband  considered  Marshall 
and  the  medicine  to  blame,  and  as  soon  as  the  wailing 
had  ceased  came  over  and  told  him  so,  following  it  up 
with  bad  sulks,  probably  to  see  what  recompense  would 
be  offered.  “ ’Tis  an  ill  wind,’’  kc.,  for  to  make  up 
for  the  loss  of  his  breadwinner  the  bereaved  husband 
attached  himself  to  one  of  the  working  parties,  in  order 
that,  as  he  told  us,  he  might  win  an  axe  with  which  to 
purchase  a new  helpmate.  By  the  hurried  way  in  which 
he  departed  at  the  end  of  his  time,  I am  inclined  to 
think  he  had  had  his  eye  upon  the  new  girl  for  some 
weeks.  Something,  however,  must  have  gone  wrong 
with  his  scheme,  as  he  was  still  a bachelor  when  we 
left  the  country : but,  as  steel  axe-heads  are  scarcer  than 
women,  he  is  probably  settled  in  life  by  this  time. 

I have  already  referred  to  the  high  mortality  amongst 
the  Papuans,  who  have  inhabited  the  land  for  countless 
generations  and  who  have  become  inured  to  the  rigours 
of  the  climate,  but  what  can  be  said  of  ourselves  and  the 
imported  soldiers  and  carriers  ? Our  casualty  list  is 
indeed  an  appalling  one,  despite  the  untiring  efforts  of 
Wollaston  and  Marshall,  who  were  ever  ready  to  turn 

230 


MORTALITY  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

out  at  all  hours  of  the  night  to  help  the  sick.  Still,  bad 
as  it  is,  it  is  little  worse  than  that  of  many  another 
expedition,  and  better  than  some,  for  instance  the 
Mamberano  party  at  this  time  working  on  the  north 
coast,  of  whom  it  is  reported  that  at  one  period  there 
was  not  a single  member,  black  or  white,  who  could 
stand.  With  us,  Europeans,  Javanese  soldiers  and  con- 
victs, Gurkhas,  men  of  Sumatra,  Macassar,  Amboina 
and  Buton,  each  contributed  a share  to  the  high  per- 
centage of  sick  and  dead. 

I have  carefully  avoided  many  references  to  this,  the 
darkest  side  of  the  expedition,  and  it  may  be  said  of 
all  journeys  undertaken  in  New  Guinea,  but  it  is  only 
right  that  some  idea  should  be  given  of  the  heavy  toll 
demanded  of  those  who  attempt  to  unravel  the  secrets 
of  this  island. 

To  simplify  the  statistics,  only  those  who  entered 
the  country  during  the  first  twelve  months  have  been 
taken  into  consideration ; and,  to  realise  correctly  the 
risk  of  life,  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  men  em- 
ployed were  in  the  prime  of  life  and  in  good  health 
when  landed,  and  in  addition  that  no  individual  was  on 
any  account  engaged  for  a longer  period  than  eight 
months.  Of  the  four  hundred  men  of  all  races  employed 
during  this  period,  twelve  per  cent,  died  in  the  country 
as  a direct  result  of  the  climate  and  the  hardships  under- 
gone. To  this  list  should  be  added  many  who  left  the 
country  in  the  relief  ships,  in  a condition  which  allowed 
but  the  faintest  hope  of  recovery.  Many  of  these 
invalids  were  suffering  from  beri-beri,  a disease  which 
claims  a heavy  toll  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  East 
Indies,  but  of  which  we  saw  no  signs  amongst  the 
natives  of  New  Guinea.  Eighty-three  per  cent,  of  the 
total  force  were  invalided  from  the  country,  and  it  may 

231 


BERI-BERI 

be  sure  that  no  man  was  sent  away  unless  the  case 
absolutely  demanded  such  treatment. 

Of  the  four  hundred  Europeans  and  natives  who 
were  landed  during  this  year  only  eleven  lasted  out  till 
the  end  of  the  expedition,  a total  period  of  fifteen 
months.  Of  the  survivors  four  were  Europeans,  four 
were  Gurkhas,  two  were  soldiers  and  one  a convict. 
Of  the  different  races  the  British  and  Gurkhas  stood 
the  climate  the  best,  and  the  Javanese  the  worst. 

The  chief  causes  of  this  high  mortality  and  roll  of 
sickness  were  malarial  fever,  beri-beri,  dysentery,  pneu- 
monia and  general  debility.  F rom  beri-beri  the  J avanese 
and  men  of  Sumatra  showed  the  heaviest  percentage  of 
loss,  the  Butonese  hardly  being  affected.  Goodfellow 
and  Cramer  were  both  attacked  before  leaving  the 
country,  but  soon  recovered  on  reaching  healthier 
climes. 

Beri-beri  is  commonly  attributed  to  feeding  on  in- 
ferior rice,  but  this  was  certainly  not  proved  with  us,  as 
the  supplies  of  the  Dutch  escort  were  at  any  rate  of 
excellent  quality,  and  they  suffered  even  more  heavily 
than  did  our  own  men.  Possibly  it  may  be  traced  to 
the  removal  of  the  husks  from  the  grains  of  rice,  and 
the  fine  milling  which  is  so  popular  in  the  East.  As  a 
preventive  some  people  pin  their  faith  to  Ketchang 
Idjoe  (a  small  bean  grown  largely  in  the  Malay  Archi- 
pelago, and  eaten  as  any  other  vegetable) ; but  here 
again  they  must  be  wrong,  as  both  parties  used  this 
throughout  without  appreciable  result.  The  Dobo 
pearl-fishers  are  great  believers  in  the  efficacy  of  this 
bean,  and  claim,  by  its  means,  to  have  reduced  their 
losses  to  infinitesimal  proportions.  To  my  uninitiated 
eyes,  the  disease  appeared  to  pick  out  those  who  carried 
an  undue  amount  of  adipose  tissue,  at  any  rate  the 

232 


MALARIA 


germ,  for  such  I suppose  it  is,  seems  to  find  here  a more 
congenial  home  in  which  to  propagate  its  species. 

From  malaria,  sooner  or  later,  we  all  suffered,  but 
had  not  most  of  us  been  provided  with  mosquito  nets 
our  days  of  sickness  would  have  increased  tenfold. 
Mosquito  nets  are  certainly  a great  aid  to  health,  but 
are  only  of  assistance  during  the  dark  hours  of  the 
night,  as  it  is  impossible  to  turn  into  bed  as  soon  as 
dusk  falls,  the  hour  when  the  death-dealing  insect  sallies 
forth  to  the  attack. 


233 


CHAPTER  XVII 


Illness  of  Goodfellow— A cheerless  place — Our  ill-fated  launch — The  art  of 
poling — A hearty  welcome — Propitiating  the  river  gods — Scarcity  of 
game — Loss  of  canoes — A rain-soaked  country — Migration — Valuable 
detail  work — Pygmy  villages — The  expedition  split  up — Lost  coolies 

GOODFELLOW,  who  had  been  camping  on  the 
Wataikwa,  to  which  place  he  had  gone  in  the 
hope  of  recouping  his  strength,  returned  to  Parimau  on 
3rd  September,  so  run  down  that  it  was  imperative  for 
him  to  leave  the  country  at  the  earliest  possible  moment. 
He  had  experienced  repeated  attacks  of  fever  since  the 
end  of  July,  each  bout  leaving  him  weaker  than  before, 
and  to  this  was  now  added  symptoms  of  beri-beri.  In 
such  a country  as  New  Guinea,  when  once  malaria  has 
obtained  a thorough  hold  on  the  system,  the  only  chance 
of  a cure  lies  in  leaving  the  country  for  a prolonged 
period  of  time.  A relief  ship  was  shortly  expected, 
and  in  this  it  was  settled  he  should  sail  for  Europe. 
Far  better  would  it  have  been  if  he  had  given  in  three 
months  previously,  but,  as  is  so  often  the  case,  he 
hoped  and  believed  that  each  attack  would  be  the  last. 
It  was  evident,  however,  that  his  constitution  was  too 
undermined  to  withstand  further  attack,  and,  greatly 
against  his  wish,  he  accepted  the  verdict  of  the  medical 
officers,  and  decided  to  abandon  all  idea  of  remaining 
longer  in  the  country.  There  is  no  doubt  that  had  he 
stayed  he  would  have  paid  the  penalty  with  his  life. 
Before,  however,  cutting  himself  entirely  adrift  from 
the  expedition,  he  agreed  to  procure  fresh  coolies  from 

234 


A CHEERLESS  PLACE 

Macassar,  and,  as  soon  as  these  had  been  despatched,  to 
sail  direct  for  England. 

A week  later  I received  a low-spirited  message  to  the 
effect  that  no  ship  had  called,  so,  postponing  an  expedi- 
tion up  the  Tuaba,  I left  at  once  for  Wakatimi.  During 
the  week  that  I stayed  at  the  base  camp  there  were  still 
no  signs  of  the  eagerly-expected  vessel,  and  the  spirits 
of  the  invalid  coolies,  buoyed  up  by  the  hopes  of  early 
departure,  fell  to  the  lowest  state  of  despondency. 

I think  at  that  time  that  Wakatimi  was  the  most 
cheerless  place  I have  ever  struck.  No  one  moved 
faster  than  at  a crawl,  many  used  crutches,  while  others 
had  to  be  assisted  about  the  camp ; so  in  a wild  desire 
to  escape  the  scene  I went  to  the  coast,  in  the  hope 
that  I might  find  a way  to  the  river  Wania  or  obtain  a 
view  of  the  mountains  from  a spit  of  sand  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mimika,  a never-failing  tonic,  if  it  was  only  to 
verify  the  fact  that  the  mountains  had  not  moved  since 
last  looked  at.  This  journey  was  carried  out  by  canoe, 
and  it  may  be  wondered  why  the  motor  boat,  obtained 
with  so  much  trouble  from  Dobo,  was  not  still  in  use. 

The  reason  is  easy  to  tell.  She  was  under  water. 

No  expedition  can  go  just  as  the  promoters  desire, 
but  it  was  really  extraordinary  how  the  five  or  six 
attempts  to  reach  the  Wania,  a large  river  lying  about 
twenty  miles  to  the  east,  failed  from  one  cause  and 
another.  Even  when  suitable  transport  was  available, 
something  always  happened  to  prevent  an  entrance  into 
the  mouth  of  that  river,  until  we  began  to  think  the 
place  bewitched.  To  superstitious  people  the  following 
short  account  of  our  run  of  ill-luck  may  be  interesting. 

Mr.  C.  D.  Mackellar,  one  of  the  keenest  and  most 
generous  supporters  of  exploration  in  all  parts  of  the 
world,  had  presented  me  on  leaving  London  with  a 

235 


OUR  ILL-FATED  LAUNCH 


lucky  horse-shoe,  tied  with  white  heather.  This,  as 
soon  as  we  landed  at  Wakatimi,  had  been  nailed,  points 
uppermost,  to  a solitary  tree  in  the  middle  of  the  camp. 
Fortune  having  set  in  dead  against  us,  the  horse-shoe 
was  blamed,  and  after  four  months’  trial  turned 
round  to  see  if  that  would  improve  matters.  Thus  it 
remained  till  August,  and  as  affairs  showed  no  signs  of 
mending,  it  was  solemnly  removed  and  cast  into  the 
depths  of  the  river,  where  at  least,  so  we  thought,  its 
wicked  influence  could  no  longer  be  felt.  But  its  deeds 
were  only  transferred  from  the  land  to  the  water,  as  on 
the  following  week  the  motor-boat,  on  whose  help  so 
much  depended,  was  wrecked.  Thus  can  this  country 
turn  good  wishes  to  no  account. 

The  Amboina  boy  in  charge  of  the  boat  had,  against 
strict  orders,  after  the  third  trip,  made  an  attempt  to 
return  from  No.  5 camp  to  Wakatimi  on  a high  flood 
and  in  a pitch  black  night.  The  result  was  what  might 
have  been  expected.  In  the  darkness  a clearer  portion 
of  the  forest  was  mistaken  for  a bend  of  the  river,  and 
the  boat  driven  at  full  speed  into  a mass  of  piled-up 
tree  trunks.  With  constant  bailing  she  was  floated  to 
Wakatimi,  there  to  sink  and  remain  under  water  for 
a month,  the  flood  not  falling  sufficiently  to  enable  her 
to  be  beached.  The  Europeans  were  away  at  the  time, 
and  the  boy  cleared  off  by  the  next  ship,  saying  that 
the  engine  had  broken  down  and  that  the  boat  was  use- 
less. With  the  assistance  of  some  Dutch  pioneers  who 
arrived  in  October  at  the  base  camp,  she  was  docked 
and  patched  up  as  well  as  possible,  retarred,  and  her 
bottom  covered  with  pieces  of  kerosene  tins,  but  in 
spite  of  this  she  continued  to  leak  so  badly  that  to 
make  her  serviceable  a man  had  to  be  kept  permanently 
on  duty  bailing  her  out. 


236 


THE  ART  OF  POLING 

As  the  motor  boat  was  out  of  order  and  nothing  was 
doing  on  the  coast,  I took  the  first  available  oppor- 
tunity of  returning  to  Parimau.  The  journey  proved 
as  hateful  as  ever,  every  foot  of  the  way  having  to  be 
poled,  but  as  this  is  a more  rapid  mode  of  progress  than 
paddling,  the  journey  took  only  five  days  instead  of  the 
usual  six.  We  had  by  this  time  mastered  the  art  of 
poling,  though  the  narrow  sloping  bows  afforded  any- 
thing but  a secure  foothold.  If  our  punting  friends  on 
the  Thames  would  narrow  their  platforms  down  to  nine 
inches  they  would  understand  that  frequent  duckings 
were  included  in  the  day’s  work  ; still,  in  this  the 
wettest  of  all  countries,  one  soaking  more  or  less 
matters  little.  Of  the  Europeans,  Marshall  was  the 
most  skilled  in  this  particular  form  of  sport,  his  fine  phy- 
sique and  weight  giving  him  a decided  advantage  over 
the  lighter  members.  For  some  reason  I was  always 
finding  the  stickiest  piece  of  mud  with  my  pole,  which 
meant  that  as  the  pole  could  not  be  abandoned,  and  as 
it  refused  to  come  to  me,  I had  to  follow  it  in. 

How  thankful  we  were  when  the  snug  huts  of 
Parimau  hove  in  sight,  and  to  see  our  comrades  and 
their  miscellaneous  collection  of  men  waiting  at  the 
landing-stage  to  give  us  a welcome.  The  greatest  joy 
in  going  away  is  said  to  lie  in  the  return,  and  of  all  the 
camps,  Parimau  was  the  most  popular.  Even  the 
natives  received  one  with  open  arms,  and  the  grins  of 
satisfaction  were  sufficient  to  show  that,  however 
shallow  their  welcome  was  in  reality,  they  were  always 
pleased  to  see  fresh  arrivals  from  below.  We  had 
worked  and  lived  amongst  them  for  the  best  part  of 
a year,  doctored  them  and  sympathised  with  their 
troubles,  until  at  length  we  had  actually  come  to  like 
them,  or,  at  any  rate,  many  of  the  best  of  them. 

237 


A PROPITIOUS  MOMENT 

Except  in  trivial  matters  we  had  no  quarrel  of  any 
sort ; they  now  understood  us,  and  we  them,  and 
though  I dare  say  both  sides  had  faults,  we  found  it 
very  easy  to  put  up  with  one  another.  From  the  com- 
mercial standpoint  the  expedition  was  valuable  to 
them,  and  in  the  absence  of  imported  labour  they  were 
simply  priceless  to  us. 

We  arrived  at  a propitious  moment,  as  the  I bo 
people  had  come  over  for  one  of  the  periodical  dances 
and  hunting  expeditions.  The  chances  of  success 
looked  remote,  as  rain  again  threatened  to  disarrange 
their  plans  and  wash  them  out  of  their  homes.  Deter- 
mined that  this  should  not  happen  if  it  could  by 
any  means  be  prevented,  an  interesting  ceremony  was 
performed,  with  the  intention,  so  far  as  we  could  make 
out,  of  propitiating  or  frightening  the  river  gods  into 
a more  kindly  mood.  A crowd  of  men  collected  and 
marched  to  the  river  bank,  where  the  leader,  armed 
with  a long  hard-wood  pole,  stepped  forth  and  flogged 
the  waters,  each  blow  being  received  with  a chorus  of 
“ boos,”  which  in  the  Mimika  language  means  “ flood  ” 
or  “ water.”  This  proceeding  having  been  satisfac- 
torily completed,  a hole  was  scooped  out  of  the  soil  in 
front  of  each  hut  and  a cocoa-nut  full  of  water  poured 
in,  each  emptying  being  followed  by  more  “ boos,”  after 
which  the  holes  were  filled  in,  and  the  men  dispersed 
to  their  homes.  Curiously  enough  the  water  rose  to 
the  line  of  these  holes  and  no  farther,  but  that  such  is 
not  always  the  case  is  shown  by  the  way  the  more 
practical  women  continued  to  bale  out  the  canoes  in 
readiness  for  another  night  afloat. 

The  sing-song  came  off  successfully,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded on  the  following  day  by  the  hunt,  but  though 
three  villages  were  taking  part  in  the  business,  not  an 

238 


SCARCITY  OF  GAME 

animal  was  killed,  and  the  people  were  proportionately 
crestfallen  and  sulky.  There  is  little  doubt  that  the 
continual  firing  of  guns  by  the  collectors  had  driven 
much  of  the  game  away,  with  the  result  that  the 
natives  suffered.  To  make  amends  for  this,  so  far  as  we 
were  able,  no  body  of  a bird  or  beast  killed  by  us  was 
ever  thrown  away ; and  with  the  exception  of  pigeons 
all  eventually  found  its  way  into  the  village  cooking- 
pots.  Carrion  crows,  hawks,  and  other  birds  were 
alike  eagerly  accepted  by  the  ever  hungry  natives  ; they 
were  at  once  plucked,  placed  on  the  hot  embers  of  the 
fire,  and  the  bones  picked  clean  in  a very  few  minutes. 
Where  a Papuan  is,  nothing  is  wasted.  He  will  eat 
anything  and  in  any  condition  (except  bad  rice,  of  which 
we  had  plenty,  and  this  he  cannot  stomach),  fresh  or 
decomposed,  clean  or  dirty,  from  a pig  to  a grub,  and 
all  forms  of  life  that  come  between,  including  such 
creatures  as  iguanas,  lizards,  snakes,  rats,  or  anything 
else  that  breathes. 

We  had  been  exactly  ten  months  in  the  country, 
and  although  it  was  generally  believed  that  the  dry 
season  was  at  hand,  the  rainfall  showed  little  diminution, 
a particularly  heavy  flood  visiting  Parimau  on  12th 
October,  and  for  the  fourth  time  sweeping  the  native 
village  completely  out  of  existence.  On  our  side  of  the 
river  the  waters  rose  to  the  level  of  the  floors  of  the 
huts,  doing  great  damage  to  the  banks,  carrying  away 
eight  of  our  flotilla  of  eleven  canoes,  and  smashing  them 
to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  With  them  went  the  land- 
ing stages,  for  nothing  can  resist  the  great  tree-trunks 
whey  they  come  whirling  down  on  a flood.  The 
wretched  natives  spent  a miserable  night  afloat,  squat- 
ting in  their  canoes  midst  depressed  relations  and 
dripping  household  goods.  The  gurgling  suck  of  the 

239 


A RAIN-SOAKED  COUNTRY 

waters,  the  cries  of  the  natives,  and  the  fall  of  great 
trees,  both  in  the  river  and  in  the  jungle,  produced 
a pandemonium  not  readily  forgotten. 

On  the  subsiding  of  the  waters  the  natives  were 
compelled  to  re-erect  their  huts  on  the  only  ground 
available,  the  original  site  of  the  village  being  now  much 
diminished  in  size.  The  large  space  of  open  ground 
which  had  met  our  eyes  on  our  first  arrival  at  Parimau 
had  now  practically  vanished,  worn  away  by  the  per- 
sistent attacks  of  the  river,  and  it  was  our  presence  only 
and  the  prospects  of  trade  that  prevented  the  natives 
from  migrating  to  other  regions. 

With  perpetual  floods  sweeping  over  the  country 
and  destroying  the  villages  it  is  hard  to  see  how  the 
natives  can  ever  be  raised  in  the  social  scale  by  the  con- 
struction of  homes  of  a more  permanent  nature.  Huts 
erected  in  the  forks  of  the  larger  trees,  a style  of  archi- 
tecture patronised  in  other  districts  of  New  Guinea,  here 
finds  no  favour,  though  it  appears  to  be  the  only  solution 
of  the  difficulty.  The  forest  land  being  nothing  more  or 
less  than  a malarial  bog,  man  is  restricted  to  the  narrow 
strip  of  ground  bordering  the  rivers,  where,  at  any  rate, 
the  sun  at  times  can  reach  the  soil  and  bring  warmth  to 
the  half-drowned  savage.  To  these  discomforts  must 
be  added  the  scarcity  of  food,  both  game  and  vegetable, 
usually  represented  by  flabby  fish  and  sago,  and  it  must 
be  owned  that  life  is  but  a dull  routine  to  the  man  and 
hard  labour  for  the  woman. 

Scarcely  had  the  people  recovered  from  the  effects 
of  the  last  flood  when  still  another  threatened  to  de- 
stroy their  new  works,  though  stopping  short  at  actual 
damage.  It  was,  however,  the  last  straw.  The  entire 
population,  sick  of  being  drowned  out  of  their  homes, 
decided  then  and  there  to  move  to  other  parts,  and 

240 


VALUABLE  DETAIL  WORK 


packing  their  canoes  with  every  portable  article,  sailed 
down  the  stream  and  were  no  more  seen.  Unfortunately 
the  best  men,  those  who  were  always  ready  to  carry, 
went  with  them,  a few  loafers  alone  remaining,  either 
compelled  to  stay  because  the  canoes  were  insufficient 
in  number  to  carry  them  all  at  once,  or  because  their 
cupidity  was  awakened  by  the  sight  of  a box  of  fine 
carving  knives  which  we  had  held  over  as  a special 
inducement  to  work  when  other  trade  goods  were  at  a 
discount. 

No  coolies  being  available,  Marshall  and  I with  ten 
natives,  on  17th  October,  started  off  in  an  attempt  to 
penetrate  into  the  mountains  to  the  north  of  the  Tuaba 
River.  It  may  be  remarked  by  my  readers  that  these 
side  excursions  helped  in  no  whit  towards  a systematic 
and  distant  entry  into  the  high  mountains,  and  that  they 
were  but  a waste  of  time.  In  a sense  this  is  true,  for 
we  knew  before  this  date  that  the  final  line  of  advance 
would  have  to  be  directly  to  the  east.  It  is  also  true, 
however,  that  no  prolonged  journey  was  possible  without 
transport,  and  the  only  feasible  thing  to  be  done,  there- 
fore, was  to  prepare  the  preliminary  stages,  explore  the 
country  on  either  hand,  incidentally  adding  much  valu- 
able detail  work  to  the  map,  search  for  easier  roads,  and 
to  take  care  not  to  draw  upon  any  stores  already  landed 
at  the  most  advanced  depot.  Each  tour  in  itself  was 
of  little  value,  but  each  added  something  of  either  geo- 
graphical or  zoological  interest,  and  therefore  was  worth 
undertaking.  Handicapped  as  we  were,  it  was  the  best 
and  only  possible  means  of  helping  on  the  work  of  the 
expedition. 

On  this  particular  journey  it  was  hoped  that  a fine 
view  of  the  precipitous  face  of  the  main  range  would 
be  obtained,  and  that  incidentally  we  might  come  across 

241  q 


PYGMY  VILLAGES 

another  village  of  pygmies,  many  of  whom  were  re- 
ported to  be  living  in  the  foothills.  As  usual  all  w ent 
well  until  the  mountains  were  reached,  when  the  dilatory 
tactics  of  the  natives  recommenced.  The  rain  fell  in 
torrents,  quickly  flooding  the  river  and  forcing  us  out  of 
the  bed  into  the  jungle.  A wet  and  uncomfortable  night 
was  spent,  but  a fine  morning  put  some  life  into  the 
carriers  and  encouraged  them  to  advance  afresh.  Pio- 
gress  was  slow,  as  the  kukries  of  the  Gurkhas  had  to  be 
used  to  open  up  every  yard  of  the  road.  At  night  we 
halted  well  in  the  mountains,  finding  for  once  a clear 
spot  to  camp  upon,  a sandy  spit  formed  at  a bend  of 
the  river. 

During  the  day  a grand  view  had  been  obtained  of 
the  great  precipice,  rising  black  and  threatening  a short 
twelve  to  fourteen  miles  away.  But  how  hopeless 
seemed  the  prospect  of  reaching  the  foot,  for  wild  and 
rugged  knife-edged  ridges  intervened,  some  covered 
with  dense  forest,  others  too  steep  for  even  the  scrub 
bush  to  obtain  a foothold.  A flat  refusal  from  the 
natives  to  proceed  any  farther  up  the  main  ri\  er,  com- 
pelled us  to  fall  in  with  their  suggestion  that  we  should 
visit  a pygmy  village  on  J?apiro  ^Mountain,  and  another 
twelve  hours  were  spent  struggling  over  the  rocks  of 
a stream  of  crystal  water,  at  the  end  of  which  time 
the  Papuans  placidly  informed  us  that  there  weie  no 
pygmies  anywhere  near,  but  that  they  sometimes  visited 
the  stream  on  the  look-out  for  fish,  as  if  that  was  the 
same  thing  and  all  we  wanted  to  know.  As  we  dis- 
covered long  afterwards,  in  this  move  they  had  deliber- 
ately deceived  us,  for  a pygmy  village  did  exist  within 
one  march  of  the  night  s camp,  but  in  exactly  the  oppo- 
site direction  to  that  in  which  they  had  brought  us. 
This  they  would  not  expose,  either  from  fear  of  the 

242 


THE  EXPEDITION  SPLIT  UP 


wrath  of  the  pygmies,  or  because  they  wished  to  keep 
our  trade  goods  to  themselves,  and  thus  enchance  the 
value  of  their  own  possessions. 

An  advance  up  the  Tuaba  River,  unaccompanied 
by  the  natives,  led  to  no  better  result,  and  as  no  track 
of  any  description  could  be  traced,  it  appears  likely  that 
the  main  valley  is  uninhabited.  These  colonies  of  hill- 
men  are  scattered  and  few  in  number,  and  do  not 
extend  beyond  Wataikwa  Mountain  to  the  east.  How 
far  to  the  west  they  go  is  uncertain,  but  by  the  forma- 
tion of  the  mountains  and  the  more  gentle  slopes  to  be 
encountered  in  that  direction,  it  is  quite  possible  that 
they  may  be  found  as  far  as  the  valley  dividing  the 
Nassau  from  the  Charles  Louis  range.  In  fact,  what 
appeared  to  be  cultivation  was  seen  by  the  glasses  lying 
high  up  the  mountain  side  at  a distance  of  fifteen  to 
eighteen  miles  to  the  west,  but  in  a position  quite 
impossible  to  locate  unless  assisted  by  the  inhabitants 
themselves. 

At  this  time  the  expedition  was  split  up  into  small 
parties,  each  member  doing  as  much  as  possible  of  his 
own  particular  kind  of  work.  Shortridge  was  collecting 
on  the  Wataikwa,  Grant  on  the  Kapare,  but  all  were 
waiting  anxiously  for  the  batch  of  coolies  which  Good- 
fellow  had  promised  to  enlist.  Our  carriers  had  steadily 
dwindled  in  numbers  till  now  but  twelve  remained,  and 
these  were  fully  employed  in  keeping  Shortridge’s  and 
Grant’s  parties  supplied  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  The 
abominable  climate  and  the  continual  work  had  played 
havoc  with  the  men.  Backwards  and  forwards  they 
plodded  along  the  same  monotonous  track,  now  no 
longer  a path  but  a bog  of  slime  covering  a network  of 
roots  and  tangled  creepers  ; bad  enough  for  the  indi- 
genous inhabitants,  but  killing  work  for  imported  labour. 

243 


LOST  COOLIES 

The  self-same  day  that  Marshall  and  I set  out  for 
the  Tuaba,  Cramer  started  on  a journey  of  his  own, 
being  anxious  to  solve  the  question  as  to  what  con- 
nection there  was,  if  any,  between  the  Tuaba  and 
Wataikwa  rivers.  Taking  twenty  soldiers  and  convicts 
and  ten  days’  supplies,  he  was  ferried  by  the  Ibo  people 
down  the  Ivamura  to  its  junction  with  the  Wataikwa, 
then  up  that  river,  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Iwaka 
on  the  way,  until  the  swift  current  compelled  him  to 
abandon  his  canoes  and  take  to  the  banks.  Continuing 
for  three  days  further,  the  Wataikwa  camp  was  reached 
and  the  return  journey  made  along  the  usual  route. 
The  trip  had  proved  highly  successful,  as  the  courses  of 
the  rivers  had  been  traced,  and  the  Wataikwa  found 
navigable  for  a launch  for  many  miles.  Broad  and 
stony  beaches  lay  on  either  hand,  and  the  forest  was 
considerably  less  dense  than  that  bordering  on  the 
Mimika. 

Short  and  comparatively  comfortable  as  the  trip  had 
been,  his  men  on  their  return  showed  evident  signs  of 
breaking  down,  three  dying  within  the  next  few  days. 
Three  others  were  lost  the  day  before  reaching  camp, 
for  though  every  endeavour  was  made  to  keep  the  line 
together,  such  was  the  denseness  of  the  undergrowth  that 
on  stepping  aside  to  avoid  a particularly  bad  spot,  they 
had  failed  to  regain  the  trail.  Two  were  found  the 
following  day  by  search  parties,  but  of  the  other,  a con- 
vict, nothing  could  be  discovered.  On  the  third  day 
hope  of  ever  seeing  the  man  was  abandoned,  when, 
to  the  astonishment  of  all  in  camp,  he  appeared  out  of 
the  undergrowth  opposite,  walked  slowly  to  the  river 
edge,  and  collapsed.  Sixty  hours  without  food  and 
shelter,  the  nights  spent  in  the  pouring  rain,  and,  worst 
of  all,  the  horrible  knowledge  of  being  lost  in  a trackless 

244 


LOST  COOLIES 

jungle,  and  that  death  must  come  in  a very  short  time, 
is  enough  to  break  the  stoutest  heart.  Fortunately  he 
was  one  of  the  strongest  men,  and  with  a plentiful 
supply  of  food  and  rest  soon  recovered.  No  European 
could  have  stood  the  strain  and  lived ; it  requires  a 
sluggish  brain  and  a phlegmatic  temperament,  charac- 
teristics of  the  native  of  the  East. 

The  collapse  in  our  own  coolies  continued,  and  as 
it  was  found  impracticable  to  keep  the  two  outlying 
camps  longer  supplied  with  food,  Shortridge  was  in 
November  withdrawn  from  the  VVataikwa,  and  the 
place  left  under  the  charge  of  a Gurkha  and  a Javanese 
soldier. 


245 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


Tapiro  Mountain— The  home  of  the  pygmies — Effects  of  the  floods — A 
silent  march — Nervous  carriers — Excited  pygmies — A poor  joke — 
Churlish  hosts — -Physical  characteristics — Dress — Personal  treasures 
— Head-dresses — Plainsman  and  pygmy— A struggle  for  existence 
— Clearings — Elusive  women — The  incomprehensible  white  man — 
Superior  plainsmen — My  suspicious  guide — A hostile  headsman — 
Timid  womenfolk — Our  departure — Measurements  of  pygmies 

P to  this  time  only  such  birds  as  live  in  the  low- 
lying  plains  had  been  secured  for  the  collection, 
and  the  large  majority  were  already  well  known  to 
science.  It  was  from  the  hills  that  the  rarer  and 
unknown  species  might  be  expected.  With  this 
object  in  view,  Grant  crossed  over  to  the  Kapare  on 
3rd  November,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  second 
day  pitched  his  camp  just  within  the  foothills  of 
Tapiro  Mountain,  from  whence  he  and  his  men  could 
collect  to  a height  of  2000  feet  or  more,  and  return 
on  the  same  day.  Their  position  was  one  to  be 
envied,  comfortably  settled  as  they  were  amidst  the 
most  exquisite  scenery,  with  the  main  river  in  front 
roaring  through  a canon  of  cliffs,  a stream  of  crystal 
clearness  running  in  just  to  the  north,  and  with 
the  precipitous  crags  and  spurs  of  Tapiro  Mountain 
directly  behind.  During  their  stay  here  several  new 
species  of  birds  were  secured,  and  a few  rats  and  such 
small  fry  added  to  the  mammal  collection. 

It  was  while  thus  employed  that  a regular  and 
well-defined  trail  was  discovered  on  the  crest  of  the 
main  spur  which,  when  followed  up,  was  found  to 

246 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  PYGMIES 


lead  to  Wambirimi,  the  village  we  had  so  long  been 
desirous  of  entering,  and  the  principal  home  of  the 
pygmies  discovered  many  months  before.  Grant's  entry 
into  the  square,  formed  by  the  first  group  of  huts,  was 
not  opposed,  but  he  was  clearly  led  to  understand  by  the 
men  there  found  that  no  welcome  would  be  accorded  if 
he  attempted  to  establish  himself  in  their  midst.  He 
saw  no  women  or  children,  and  after  taking  a photo- 
graph of  one  of  the  huts  was  escorted  back  to  his  camp, 
where  a small  amount  of  trading  was  done. 

On  receipt  of  this  news  and  hearing  that  the  road 
was  immeasurably  superior  to  the  one  we  had  dis- 
covered during  the  previous  March,  Marshall  and 
I determined  to  sleep  in  the  midst  of  the  pygmies, 
examine  them  in  their  homes,  and  if  possible  take 
measurements  and  photographs.  By  spending  a 
couple  of  nights  in  the  village  itself  we  fondly  hoped 
that  their  womenfolk  would  be  compelled  to  show 
themselves,  and  that,  when  they  had  once  lost  their 
shyness,  they  would  move  about  amongst  us  as  freely 
as  the  women  in  the  plains  were  accustomed  to  do. 
Our  baggage  was  soon  packed ; and  to  our  great  sur- 
prise, knowing  how  strongly  they  objected  to  enter 
the  mountains,  the  Parimau  men  at  once  volunteered 
to  carry  the  loads  to  the  village.  This  pleased  us 
immensely,  as  we  reasoned  that  the  arrival  of  the 
plainsmen  would  be  likely  to  cause  much  less  fear 
amongst  the  hillmen  than  if  a troop  of  brightly-clothed 
strangers  were  suddenly  to  appear  in  their  midst. 

The  next  morning  we  set  forth.  Eight  months 
had  elapsed  since  I had  last  seen  the  Kapare  River, 
and  since  then  the  wet  season  had  sent  its  floods 
swirling  down  the  valley.  The  old  familiar  land- 
marks had  vanished  or  were  so  altered  as  to  be  almost 

247 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  FLOODS 

unrecognisable.  Hundred  of  acres  of  ancient  forest 
land,  bearing  trees  of  great  age.  had  entirely  dis- 
appeared. giving  place  to  stony  stretches  of  river  bed. 
through  which  meandered  rivulets,  or  where  lay  pools 
of  muddy  water.  The  old  three-acre  camping  ground, 
together  with  the  log-hut.  built  with  so  much  toil, 
and  the  first  two  miles  of  the  road,  had  completely 
vanished,  and  only  the  cut  stumps  of  the  overgrown 
trail  beyond  showed  where  so  many  days  of  labour 
had  been  expended.  On  the  second  day  we  reached 
Grant's  camp,  and  on  the  third  set  forth  on  the  final 
climb  to  the  village  of  Wambirimi.  or.  as  some  of  the 
men  called  it.  Wambirimerbiri. 

The  general  direction  of  the  new  advance  was  not 
across  the  crystal  stream  as  we  had  imagined,  but  directly 
up  the  narrow  ravine  out  of  which  it  flowed.  The 
ascent  commenced  at  once  along  a faintly-marked  track. 
At  times  it  wound  along  razor-backed  ridges,  at  others 
dropped  into  dark  and  gloomy  ravines,  but  was  always 
compressed  into  the  smallest  dimensions  by  the  all- 
enveloping  j ungle. 

Not  a sound  broke  the  silence  of  the  forest  as  the 
long  thin  line  of  carriers  gradually  crept  upwards. 
Animal  life  we  had  certainly  expected  to  find,  but 
except  for  the  call  of  a solitary  bird  of  paradise,  and 
the  sight  of  a large  snake  of  exquisite  emerald  hue 
which  passed  quietly  through  the  line  of  men  and  into 
the  undergrowth  beyond,  not  a sound  broke  the  oppres- 
sing stillness,  nor  was  there  a movement  to  show  that 
man  or  beast  inhabited  the  land.  But  that  life  did 
exist  in  both  these  forms  was  proved  by  the  numerous 
small  noose  traps  set  at  intervals  along  either  side  of 
the  path,  but  of  such  small  size  as  to  be  incapable  of 
holding  anything  more  formidable  than  a rat. 

248 


NERVOUS  CARRIERS 

The  carriers,  always  depressed  when  far  from  home, 
became  more  and  more  affected  as  the  minutes  passed, 
until  complete  silence  reigned  throughout  the  party. 
A steady  climb  of  three  hours  brought  us  to  a wooded 
knoll,  through  the  trees  of  which  a glimpse  of  the 
cleared  and  cultivated  area  was  obtained,  showing  how 
close  we  were  to  our  goal.  Still  not  a sound.  The 
signs  of  nervousness  amongst  the  carriers  increased, 
for  by  now  they  realised  that  they  had  broken  the 
tribal  rule  and  had  crossed  into  forbidden  ground,  and 
to  make  matters  worse  were  unarmed,  since  by  our 
orders  their  spears,  bows,  and  arrows  had  been  left  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill.  Had  we  not  been  with  them  it 
is  certain  that  they  never  would  have  ventured  into 
the  district,  armed  or  unarmed.  To  judge  by  their 
stealthy  movements  I verily  believe  they  thought 
we  were  about  to  raid  the  small  men,  but  what  they 
thought  we  wanted  to  steal  from  the  pygmies,  unless 
it  was  their  women,  I cannot  imagine.  However, 
to  show  them  that  our  intentions  were  friendly,  and 
that  no  surprise  attack  was  to  be  undertaken,  Marshall 
gave  a hail  with  all  the  strength  of  his  lungs,  a pro- 
ceeding which  acted  as  a galvanic  shock  to  the  carriers 
and  brought  a babel  of  cries  from  the  cultivated  ground 
opposite. 

Instead  of  pushing  on  at  once,  we  halted  for  a 
few  minutes  to  show  the  pygmies  that  our  intentions 
were  peaceful,  and  to  give  them  time  to  collect  their 
scattered  wits.  The  moments  passed  rapidly  while 
listening  to  the  pandemonium  which  had  broken  loose 
on  the  hillside,  and  watching  the  little  men  appear 
amongst  their  crops  and  come  bounding  down  the  hill- 
side towards  the  threatened  flank.  To  the  excited 
cries  of  the  Wambirimi  men  were  added  the  shrill 

249 


EXCITED  PYGMIES 

shrieks  of  the  women  as  they  hurried  from  their  fields 
into  the  hidden  recesses  of  the  forest.  Feeling  that 
the  necessities  of  etiquette  had  been  fulfilled,  we  pressed 
forward  rapidly  and  entered  upon  the  col  which  links 
the  plantation  to  the  village. 

Down  the  mountain  sides  the  hillmen  converged 
from  all  directions,  racing  along  the  felled  trees  and 
across  the  tangled  growth,  shouting  at  the  tops  of  their 
voices,  and  fitting  arrows  to  their  bows  as  they  ran. 
Our  own  men,  although  unarmed,  split  into  three  parties, 
for  what  purpose  I am  not  sure,  but  which  gave  to  the 
force  the  appearance  of  advanced  and  flank  guards. 
Any  forcible  opposition  which  may  have  been  intended 
by  the  hillmen  was  nullified  by  Peau1  and  his  comrades 
pressing  so  rapidly  and  determinedly  forward,  as  to 
actually  surround  the  pygmies  before  they  could  make 
up  their  minds  to  commence  hostilities,  and  to  close 
upon  them  in  such  a way  as  to  prevent  the  effectual 
use  of  their  weapons  should  they  suddenly  decide  to 
resist  the  invader.  It  was  a pretty  manoeuvre. 

An  excited  confab  followed,  Peau  doing  his  best 
to  impress  upon  the  pgymies  that  we  were  not  a 
raiding  party,  and  that  our  only  desire  was  to  stay  the 
night  upon  the  mountain-side,  somewhere  about  the 
spot  where  we  then  were.  The  terrified  little  men  did 
not  like  it  at  all,  but  could  see  no  way  out  of  the 
trouble.  We  were  evidently  not  afraid  of  them,  and 
as,  after  much  fitting  of  the  arrows  into  the  bows  and 
several  threats  to  shoot,  we  still  remained  where  we 
were,  they  were  compelled  to  make  the  best  of  a bad 
job  and  let  us  stay.  To  excite  their  avarice,  we  made  the 
most  of  the  fact  that  in  the  boxes  were  concealed  beads, 
knives,  and  cloth,  and  such  goods  as  we  knew  they 

1 The  regular  go-between. 

250 


Tapiro  Pygmies 

A group  of  Tapiro  pygmies  standing  in  front  of  the  smallest  of  their  houses.  They  are  never  to 
be  seen  without  their  bows  and  arrows,  which  are  of  remarkable  length. 


A POOR  JOKE 


longed  to  possess,  until  at  length  they  began  to  think 
that  our  coming  might  considerably  enrich  the  village. 

To  our  surprise,  instead  of  leaving  us  to  our  own 
resources  and  allowing  the  camp  to  be  pitched  there 
and  then,  they  led  the  way  to  the  village  first  seen  by 
Grant,  telling  the  big  Papuans  to  follow  on  with  the 
loads.  This  showed  certain  friendly  feelings  towards 
us,  but  from  my  point  of  view  was  marred  by  a dis- 
agreeable way  the  guide  had,  every  few  yards,  of 
fitting  an  arrow  into  the  bow,  drawing  it  to  its  full 
extent  and  pointing  it  straight  at  the  middle  of  my 
body.  The  action  was  accompanied*  by  a broad  grin, 
so  there  was  nothing  to  do  but  grin  in  return,  although 
I well  remember  thinking  at  the  time  that  it  was  one 
of  the  poorest  kind  of  jokes  I had  ever  seen. 

Within  a few  minutes  we  were  in  a small  square 
surrounded  by  five  huts,  but  were  hurried  through  this 
up  the  slope  of  the  hill  to  a second  collection  of  nine 
huts  which  had  been  erected  in  the  clearing  of  the 
forest  and  well  out  of  sight  of  the  first  habitations. 
Two  artificially  constructed  platforms  of  clay  and  mud, 
each  about  the  size  of  a tennis  court,  were  pointed  out 
as  the  places  upon  which  the  tents  could  be  pitched,  the 
upper  one  of  wThich  we  chose,  to  the  accompaniment  of 
loud  protests  from  the  owners  of  the  neighbouring  huts. 
Their  objections  were  overruled,  and  as  they  had  no 
intention  of  living  in  such  close  proximity  to  strangers, 
they  had  to  clear  out  and  take  up  a temporary  abode 
elsewhere. 

Neither  women  nor  children  were  to  be  seen,  and 
although  the  hillmen  had  brought  us  to  this  place  of 
their  own  accord,  they  showed  evident  misgivings  as  to 
our  intentions,  and  never  for  a moment  let  go  their 
bows  and  arrows,  or  lent  a hand  to  move  a load.  They 

251 


CHURLISH  HOSTS 


showed  a churlish  spirit  in  all  their  actions,  and  even 
refused  to  point  out  where  water  was  to  be  found — an 
unusual  request  in  a country  where  it  is  always  raining ; 
but  the  day  happened  to  be  fine,  the  hill  steep,  and  the 
river  hundreds  of  feet  below.  We  did  the  best  thing 
possible,  took  not  the  slightest  notice  of  them,  quietly 
pitched  the  tents,  lit  the  fires,  and  settled  ourselves 
down  as  if  the  place  belonged  to  us.  Seeing  that  their 
presence  was  disregarded,  they  gradually  came  to  look 
upon  us  with  more  favourable  eyes,  and  at  length  began 
talking  and  prying  into  our  goods.  A few  beads  judi- 
ciously expended  worked  wonders  and  awakened  the 
desire  for  trade. 

During  these  preliminary  manoeuvres  groups  of 
excited  men  were  arriving  from  the  more  distant  parts, 
panting  from  their  exertions,  and  eager  to  hear  what 
had  happened.  Many  had  not  been  seen  before,  and 
in  these  fear  and  curiosity  fought  for  the  premier  place, 
their  avaricious  little  eyes  simply  starting  from  their 
heads  at  the  sight  of  beads  and  knives  openly  displayed 
so  as  to  excite  their  cupidity. 

In  age  they  ranged  between  eighteen  and  forty,  and 
differed  as  much  in  appearance  as  in  manners.  The 
majority  were  well-developed  and  nourished,  their  thigh 
muscles  being  especially  marked,  the  result  of  con- 
tinuous climbing  in  the  mountains.  In  colour  they 
were  several  shades  fairer  than  the  plainsmen,  although 
in  no  instance  did  they  show  anything  lighter  than  milk 
chocolate  ; but  as  they  were  horribly  dirty,  soot  and 
dirt  begrimed  in  the  sheltered  curves  and  hollows  of 
their  bodies,  clean  only  over  those  more  prominent 
parts  which  brushed  against  the  wet  foliage  of  the 
forest,  the  exact  shade  was  hard  to  determine.  In  the 
majority  of  cases  the  hair  was  coal  black,  but  there  were 

252 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

now  and  again  instances  of  very  dark  brown  or  even 
reddish  brown.  It  was  worn  short,  and  took  the  form 
of  frizzy  curls,  not  pepper-corn.  Many  of  the  older 
men  had  long,  thick  black  beards ; those  of  a grey  hue 
were  scarce  and  apparently  not  approved  of,  as  in  three 
instances  at  least  they  had  been  dyed  a bright  yellow. 
The  nose  was  straight  and  broad,  the  eyes  black,  the 
jaw  marked  but  not  prognathous,  the  lips  thick,  and 
the  general  contour  of  the  face  oval. 

Both  in  dress  and  decoration  they  varied  but  little 
from  those  members  of  the  tribe  captured  by  us  in  the 
previous  February.  In  front,  supported  by  a string 
round  the  waist,  stood  out  at  a sharp  angle  from  the 
body  a straight  or  curved  penis  case,  8 to  17  inches  in 
length,  formed  from  some  unknown  gourd  of  a bright 
yellow  colour,  and  occasionally  decorated  with  a tuft  of 
brown  or  white  cuscus  fur. 

Large  and  strong  net  bags  of  coarse  string,  inter- 
woven with  a pattern  of  yellow  fibre,  are  worn  slung 
over  one  shoulder,  and  from  the  corner  of  which  hang 
from  one  to  as  many  as  twenty  boars’  tusks,  trophies 
of  the  chase,  and  highly  prized  by  the  owner.  These 
tusks  denote  the  prowess  of  the  individual,  very  much 
in  the  same  way  as  human  scalps  did  in  the  old  days  of 
the  North  American  Indians.  The  bags  contain  the 
entire  sum  of  their  portable  possessions,  a roll  or  two 
of  string  for  fishing  purposes,  a fire-stick,  and  a length 
of  split  rattan,  Birds  of  Paradise  plumes,  and  other 
odds  and  ends,  all  jealously  guarded  and  never  allowed 
out  of  the  owner’s  possession.  They  paid  Marshall  and 
me  the  compliment  of  letting  us  look  inside  and  handle 
the  goods,  but  if  anyone  else  tried  to  do  the  same,  the 
bags  were  clasped  to  their  sides  in  a vice-like  grip  and 
a string  of  guttural  sounds  poured  from  their  lips. 

253 


HEAD-DRESSES 


Another  bag  of  smaller  size  is  suspended  round  the 
neck  close  up  to  the  chin,  where  it  is  protected  from 
the  rain,  and  in  this  is  kept  tobacco,  tinder,  and  dried 
leaves  for  use  as  cigarette  papers.  They  are  great 
smokers,  and  never  seem  quite  at  ease  unless  they  are 
puffing  their  not  ill-flavoured  tobacco. 

Many  wear  earrings,  generally  composed  of  at  least 
one  string  of  the  small  black  seeds  of  the  wild  banana, 
to  which  may  be  added  a red  seed  or  two,  a wisp  of 
cuscus  fur,  or  any  object  particularly  fancied,  the  whole 
collection  being  attached  to  a hole  in  the  lobe  of 
the  ear.  Now  and  again  this  fanciful  ornament  would 
be  abandoned  in  favour  of  a plain,  small  and  highly- 
polished  gourd. 

Necklaces  are  fairly  common  and  of  great  variety, 
but  all  most  quaint.  Some  are  formed  of  dozens  of 
teeth  or  shoulder-blades  of  the  wallaby,  strung  in  rows  ; 
others  of  the  back  teeth  of  the  cuscus,  or  of  white  and 
red  seeds,  no  particular  pattern  being  ultra-fashionable. 

Head-dresses  are  not  much  favoured,  and  usually 
consist  of  a plain  band  of  woven  grass.  Some,  how- 
ever, are  of  decidedly  striking  design.  One  man,  for 
instance,  sported  a circlet  of  over  a hundred  wallaby 
shoulder-blades,  each  with  a small  hole  bored  neatly 
through  the  centre ; whilst  another,  of  wild  aspect, 
wore  a cap  of  cassowary  skin  decorated  with  a crown 
of  black  feathers.  Perhaps  the  quaintest  of  all  was  a 
cap  of  hundreds  of  pieces  of  black  string  (black  from 
age  and  grease  and  not  because  of  any  particular  fibre), 
tied  together  in  a knot  and  hanging  as  a fringe  over 
the  face.  The  owner  was  decidedly  bald,  so  that  it 
might  have  been  adopted  as  a wig. 

On  the  body  itself  there  was  very  little,  except  in 
two  instances  when  rattan  was  twisted  round  and  round 

254 


PLAINSMAN  AND  PYGMY 


the  stomach,  possibly  to  act  as  a cuirass,  a custom 
prevalent  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 

With  their  ever -ready  bows  and  arrows,  and 
absorbed  in  what  was  going  on  around  them,  they 
formed  groups  easy  to  study  and  photograph.  From 
a cursory  glance  they  gave  one  the  impression  of  being 
on  a lower  scale  to  that  of  the  plainsmen,  yet  in  two 
instances  at  least  they  surpass  them  in  intelligence  and 
constructive  power.  The  plainsmen  from  the  foothills 
to  the  sea  have  words  to  denote  the  first  and  second 
numerals  only,  any  addition  to  that  number  being 
shown  by  the  fingers  of  the  hand,  and  if  these  are  in- 
sufficient, by  including  the  toes.  According  to  Grant, 
who  questioned  some  of  the  men  who  visited  his  camp 
on  the  Ivapare,  the  pygmies  can  count  up  to  ten,  a 
considerable  advance  in  intelligence. 

The  second  marked  difference  is  in  the  architecture 
of  the  houses.  In  the  plains,  the  one  and  only  kind  of 
shelter — excluding  dancing  halls — is  the  primitive  and 
temporary  leaf  hut,  pitched  on  the  ground.  Amongst 
the  Tapiro  this  gives  place  to  a substantial  wood  build- 
ing erected  on  piles,  the  floor  being  some  10  feet 
above  the  ground.  The  house  consists  of  one  room 
12  to  15  feet  square  with  a verandah  in  front  3 to 
5 feet  broad,  and  sheltered  from  the  rain  by  a far- 
projecting  eve.  The  roof  is  formed  of  superimposed 
layers  of  fan-palm  leaves,  resting  on  rafters  inclined 
at  an  acute  angle.  Entrance  is  effected,  first  to  the 
verandah  by  a ladder  of  the  crudest  construction,  and 
thence  into  the  interior  of  the  hut  by  a window,  the 
sill  of  which  is  2 to  3 feet  above  the  level  of  the 
floor.  The  floor  itself  is  made  of  split  timber,  laid  as 
closely  as  possible,  and  upon  this  again  are  placed 
strips  of  flattened  bark.  Along  the  walls  more  bark 

2 55 


A STRUGGLE  FOR  EXISTENCE 

is  fixed,  thus  excluding  both  wind  and  rain.  To  heat 
the  interior  fires  are  lit  in  a box  of  sand,  let  into  a 
hole  in  the  centre  of  the  floor.  No  other  furniture  or 
decoration  exists  in  any  form,  though  it  is  possible 
that  some  small  and  precious  articles  may  have  been 
removed  to  the  forest  before  we  gained  an  entrance. 

In  the  village  itself  a few  yellow  pie  dogs  are  to  be 
seen,  of  the  type  common  throughout  New  Guinea  but 
possessing  rather  longer  coats,  due  in  all  probability  to 
the  higher  altitude  at  which  they  live. 

Much  of  the  ground  occupied  by  Wambirimi  village 
has  been  artificially  levelled,  a kind  of  work  that  would 
never  occur  to  the  mind  of  the  plainsman,  or  if  it  did 
would  not  be  put  into  execution. 

The  more  one  sees  of  these  people,  the  more  one 
realises  that  their  lives  are  one  long  struggle  for  exist- 
ence. Precipitous  mountains  with  deep  and  gloomy 
gorges  surround  them  on  either  hand,  every  foot  of 
ground  clothed  with  the  densest  forest,  with  perpetual 
rain,  with  no  wild  fruit  or  edible  roots,  and  flesh  in  any 
form  scarce  and  hard  to  procure.  Existence  would  be 
impossible  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  a certain  amount 
of  the  less  precipitous  land  has  been  taken  under  culti- 
vation. F or  this  purpose  two  clearings  have  been  made, 
the  larger  of  about  a hundred  and  twenty  acres,  situated 
on  the  main  hill  four  hundred  or  five  hundred  yards 
from  the  village,  the  other  only  in  its  earliest  stages  of 
development.  One  must  see  the  ground  to  appreciate 
the  amount  of  labour  that  has  been  expended  in  clear- 
ing away  the  great  trees  and  vegetation  with  which  it 
was  at  one  time  encumbered.  When  it  is  realised  also 
that  this  has  been  accomplished  solely  with  the  aid  of 
fire  (a  difficult  operation  in  this  wet  climate),  stone  axes, 
and  two  implements  fashioned  out  of  a couple  of  small 

256 


A Typical  Pygmy  House 

A typical  house  of  the  pygmies  with  ladder  in  front  and  banana  trees  on  either  side. 


ELUSIVE  WOMEN 

pieces  of  hoop-iron  fastened  to  bamboo  handles,  the 
magnitude  of  the  task  will  be  understood.  Covering 
the  clearing  are  sweet  potatoes  and  taro,  with  here  and 
there  an  isolated  banana  tree ; and  on  this  poor  fare, 
supplemented  by  an  occasional  taste  of  pig,  wallaby  and 
cuscus,  these  people  subsist. 

To  all  outward  appearances  their  fears  as  to  our 
intentions  were  soon  allayed,  but  this  could  only  have 
been  of  a partial  character,  for,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that 
the  heaviest  bribes  were  offered,  never  once  did  we  get 
a sight  of  a woman.  Large  butcher’s  knives  were  dis- 
played, eliciting  gasps  of  admiration  and  longing,  it 
being  explained  that  these  were  expressly  for  those 
men  who  would  induce  a woman  to  show  herself ; and 
to  our  persuasions  were  added  those  of  the  plainsmen, 
yet  all  to  no  purpose.  They  were  told  distinctly  that 
we  only  wanted  just  to  look  at  their  women-folk,  and 
that  they  could  go  away  immediately  after  they  had 
shown  themselves ; but  they  evidently  did  not  believe 
us,  or  possibly  feared  that  the  plainsmen  would  seize  and 
carry  the  women  away,  as  it  must  be  remembered  that 
although  women  in  the  plains  are  so  badly  treated,  yet 
they  are  scarce  and  much  sought  after,  and  a pygmy 
woman  would  probably  be  extremely  popular.  The  old 
men  formed  the  obstructionist  party ; the  young  ones 
by  themselves  might  have  yielded  to  our  temptations. 
In  fact  they  actually  said  that  several  of  the  women  had 
approached  and  from  the  screen  of  the  jungle  had 
taken  a surreptitious  look  at  us,  but  that  the  sight  of 
our  clothing  had  been  too  much  for  their  feelings,  and 
that  they  had  beaten  a precipitate  flight.  “ If  we  would 
only  remove  our  clothes  and  appear  naked  like  them,” 
they  explained,  “ there  would  be  little  doubt  that  the 
women  could  be  persuaded  to  return.”  The  conditions 

257  R 


THE  PYGMIES  MEASURED 


imposed  were  too  stringent,  and  besides,  we  were  not  at 
all  sure  that  they  would  fulfil  their  part  of  the  bargain. 

The  men  showed  no  fear  of  the  camera  and  the  cine- 
matograph, but  then  they  had  not  the  remotest  idea  of 
what  was  happening.  What  could  these  little  savages 
have  thought  of  our  goings  on  ? Picture  the  scene. 
Two  weird  creatures  in  the  form  of  man,  but  as  different 
as  light  from  darkness  from  anything  they  had  ever 
dreamt  of,  enter  their  midst,  pitch  their  peculiar  form 
of  house  just  where  it  suits  them,  and  without  delay 
proceed  to  place  their  hosts  in  groups,  all  the  time 
gazing  stolidly  at  a black  box ; then  make  them  shoot 
arrows,  run  up  and  down  hill,  carry  on  other  silly  and 
aimless  pranks,  and  after  each  performance  freely  dis- 
tribute priceless  beads.  We  would  have  given  much 
that  night  to  have  been  able  to  listen  to  and  understand 
their  conjectures  and  reasonings. 

Our  next  proceeding  must  have  been  equally  sur- 
prising and  certainly  more  terrifying,  for  every  man 
who  could  be  persuaded  to  step  forth  was  thoroughly 
measured  with  the  standard  and  with  the  craniometer, 
an  operation  so  appalling  that  large  strips  of  cloth  had 
to  be  offered  before  they  could  be  tempted  to  surrender 
their  bodies  into  the  hands  of  the  Inquisitors.  Some  of 
the  older  men,  indeed,  trembled  so  violently  during  the 
process  that  they  were  hardly  capable  of  remaining  on 
their  feet.  But  as  soon  as  it  was  realised  that  this 
operation  was  painless  and  that  no  ill  effects  followed, 
they  gained  courage,  and  after  exchanging  a few  articles 
of  dress  for  beads  and  finding  that  they  were  promptly 
paid,  they  placed  themselves  unreservedly  in  our  hands, 
and  at  the  same  time  developed  an  inordinate  desire  to 
dispose  of  the  whole  of  their  worldly  goods.  A peculiar 
thing  amongst  the  latter  was  a Jew’s  harp,  fashioned 

258 


SUPERIOR  PLAINSMEN 


from  a piece  of  split  bamboo  and  worked  by  a string, 
the  notes  produced  being  very  similar  to  those  elicited 
by  the  common  European  kind. 

With  the  exception  of  boars’  tushes  and  the  more 
finely  carved  arrows,  the  Tapiro  men  were  willing 
to  exchange  their  possessions  at  what  seemed  to  us 
ridiculously  low  rates — a fragment  of  cloth,  a few  beads, 
&c.  The  greater  difficulty  experienced  in  obtaining 
tushes  and  arrows  was  apparently  due  to  the  fact  that 
the  former  were  regarded  as  trophies  of  the  chase,  and 
difficult  to  come  by,  while  the  better  class  of  arrows 
could  only  have  been  produced  after  much  labour,  as 
they  were  fashioned  from  the  hardest  of  wood  and  were 
artistically  carved.  The  decoration  upon  the  weapons 
often  showed  great  skill  and  ingenuity,  though  the  tools 
used  in  the  work  were  merely  sharpened  shells  or  chips 
of  flint.  The  arrow-heads  were  of  four  kinds,  each  being 
of  the  shape  most  suitable  for  bringing  down  pig,  casso- 
wary, bird,  or  fish,  and  on  none  were  there  any  traces 
of  poison. 

It  was  easy  to  see  that  not  much  love  was  lost  be- 
tween the  hillmen  and  the  plainsmen.  The  latter,  as 
members  of  our  train,  adopted  a very  superior  attitude, 
helping  themselves  to  whatever  they  fancied  and,  until 
we  put  a stop  to  it,  pulling  down  the  walls  of  the  houses 
for  firewood,  cutting  off  branches  of  bananas,  and  in 
every  way  making  themselves  quite  at  home  and  ex- 
ceedingly objectionable.  Conversation  between  the  two 
races  was  carried  on  with  difficulty,  as  few  of  either 
party  understood  in  the  least  the  language  of  the  other. 
Previous  to  our  arrival  in  the  country,  communication 
and  trading  was  maintained  by  one  man  who  travelled 
backwards  and  forwards  when  tobacco  was  wanted,  dogs 
to  be  bought,  or  any  other  exchange  to  be  made. 

259 


INTERMARRIAGE 

Now  and  again,  I believe,  they  intermarry,  for  one 
Parimau  man  certainly  carried  pygmy  blood  in  his 
veins,  and  was  the  one  and  only  carrier  received  with 
any  show  of  affection  by  the  hillmen.  Similarly,  two 
of  the  pygmies  appeared  more  closely  related  to  the 
plainsmen  than  to  the  people  with  whom  they  were 
living,  noticeably  in  respect  to  height,  build,  and  facial 
expression.  The  Parimau  women  were  very  fond  of 
the  first  pygmy  captured  in  the  Kapar£  River,  and  gave 
him  such  a good  time  that  he  was  induced  on  two  or 
three  occasions  to  come  to  Parimau,  when  they  would 
kiss  and  pet  him,  make  him  stay  with  them  for  the 
night,  and  then  rob  him  in  the  morning.  When  he 
stormed  and  raved  at  the  loss  of  his  knife  or  some  other 
precious  article,  they  simply  laughed  in  his  face,  and  if 
that  made  him  choke  with  rage  they  would  fondle  and 
pet  him  again  until  peace  was  restored. 

The  hillmen  sell  tobacco  to  the  plainsmen,  taking 
dogs  and  shells  in  exchange.  During  the  present  visit 
home-grown  tobacco  was  scarce,  so  that  a small  supply 
of  the  common  Java  variety,  which  we  had  with  us, 
was  doubly  welcome.  Tobacco  is  always  smoked  in  the 
form  of  cigarettes,  but  in  a rather  novel  manner.  The 
tobacco  is  rolled  up  in  a dry  leaf  and,  to  make  the 
covering  more  pliable,  is  warmed  for  a few  moments 
over  the  fire.  One  end  is  lighted,  the  other  closed  with 
the  thumb  and  finger,  and  the  centre  of  the  cigarette  is 
placed  between  the  lips,  the  smoke  being  drawn  from 
the  middle  through  the  crack  formed  by  the  folding 
leaf;  when  partly  consumed,  the  end  is  placed  in  the 
mouth  and  finished  in  the  usual  way.  Only  one  pipe 
did  we  see.  It  was  made  from  a single  piece  of  hard 
wood,  short  and  stumpy,  and  the  bowl  a prolongation 
of  the  stem,  so  that  the  smoke  passed  in  a straight  line 
to  the  mouth.  To  our  eyes  it  was  crudely  fashioned, 

260 


MY  SUSPICIOUS  GUIDE 

but  with  the  primitive  tools  available  must  have  taken 
the  owner  hours,  if  not  days,  of  patient  labour  to  carve. 

Throughout  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day  no 
natives  put  in  an  appearance,  and  as  there  was  little 
doing  in  camp,  Peau  and  I strolled  over  to  the  cultivated 
land,  on  the  way  passing  through  the  farther  collection 
of  huts.  Something  must  have  aroused  the  suspicions 
of  my  guide,  as  before  he  even  reached  the  buildings 
he  took  on  the  stealthy  tread  of  the  hunter,  crouching 
low  and  moving  with  the  utmost  caution.  I just  stared 
at  him  in  astonishment,  as  to  my  eyes  there  was  no- 
thing unusual  in  the  country  or  in  the  huts.  The  closer 
he  approached  the  more  wary  he  became,  until  I found 
I was  copying  him,  and  became  for  the  moment  another 
savage.  Now  that  I came  to  glance  round  with  care,  I 
realised  that  there  was  not  a man  to  be  seen  anywhere, 
nor  was  a sound  to  be  heard.  Peau’s  quick  eyes  searched 
every  corner,  while  in  answer  to  my  whispered  ques- 
tionings his  raised  finger  pointed,  first  to  the  overturned 
ladder  of  a hut,  and  then  to  a bag  of  fire-sticks  and 
string  lying  on  the  ground  in  the  open — sufficient  evi- 
dence to  prove  a hurried  flight ! Passing  quietly  through 
the  village  to  the  cultivation  beyond  and  up  the  hill- 
side he  signalled  to  me  to  wait,  while  he  crawled  along 
a tree  projecting  over  the  crest,  from  whence  the  valley 
below  could  be  seen.  From  my  point  of  vantage,  now 
that  I sat  still  and  listened,  the  excited  chatter  of  many 
men  could  be  heard  in  the  ravine  below,  but  too  indis- 
tinct for  anything  to  be  understood  even  had  I known 
the  language.  This  murmur,  however,  was  quite  enough 
for  Peau  who,  signalling  me  to  follow,  hurried  back  at 
his  topmost  speed  to  the  tents  and  amongst  his  friends, 
where  in  the  security  of  the  camp  he  quickly  regained 
his  wonted  calm. 

,,  Marshall  quite  agreed  with  me  that  whatever  was 

261 


A HOSTILE  HEADMAN 


amiss  was  not  of  very  serious  import.  Such  proved 
to  be  the  case,  as  within  ten  minutes  the  pygmies  put 
in  an  appearance,  strolling  in  by  two’s  and  three’s,  and 
proceeded  to  carry  on  in  the  same  friendly  way  as  on 
the  previous  day.  As  to  why  they  had  so  completely 
deserted  the  village  for  the  time  being,  and  the  reason 
for  their  precipitate  flight  from  the  farther  huts,  we 
were  unable  to  fathom. 

Friendly  is  perhaps  not  quite  the  correct  term,  as 
though  half  a dozen  or  so  of  the  keenest  traders  seemed 
highly  delighted  at  the  bargains  they  had  made,  there 
were  others  who  would  neither  trade  nor  relinquish 
their  weapons,  and  from  whom  it  was  impossible  to  get 
a smile  or  anything  more  than  a look  of  tolerance.  In 
one  case,  indeed,  and  that  a particularly  unfortunate  one, 
for  it  was  the  headman  of  the  village  of  Wambirimi, 
there  was  persistent  and  hostile  obstruction.  He  was 
a particularly  objectionable  old  man,  maimed  by  some 
disease  and  with  only  one  eye,  and  imbued  with  a 
special  dislike  for  us.  Had  he  kept  silence  it  would 
not  have  mattered,  but  instead  there  poured  forth  an 
unceasing  flow  of  remarks,  pitched  in  a high  and  squeaky 
tone,  which  to  us  sounded  nothing  more  or  less  than 
pure  abuse. 

His  word  carried  much  weight,  and  I think  that  it 
was  due  to  his  animosity  that  the  women  were  kept  so 
well  hidden. 

Far  up  the  mountain  side,  thousands  of  feet  above 
us,  could  be  seen  at  dusk  the  camp  fires  of  the  women, 
an  impregnable  spot  to  which  they  had  fled,  and  from 
which  they  would  again  flee  were  we  to  attempt  a near 
approach.  It  did  not  require  the  repeated  assertions  of 
the  pygmy  men  to  make  us  believe  that  this  would 
happen,  or  that  it  was  futile  to  follow  them  unless  they 
were  willing  to  show  themselves  of  their  own  accord. 

262 


At  Wamberimi 

Pygmies  collecting  to  defend  their  homes. 


Tapiro  Pygmies 

The  Tapiros,  assured  of  the  safety  of  their  homes,  take  on  a more  friendly  attitude. 


OUR  DEPARTURE 


It  was  evident  that  the  women-folk  had  no  intention  of 
coming  into  our  camp,  and  that  the  longer  we  stayed 
where  we  were  the  more  would  their  suspicions  be 
aroused.  It  could  be  seen  that  we  had  already  over- 
stayed our  welcome,  and  the  deduction  was  drawn  that 
it  would  be  wiser  to  leave  the  place  in  peace  and  give 
them  time  to  think  over  the  considerate  way  in  which 
they  had  been  treated,  so  that  in  case  another  visit 
should  be  paid  later  on  they  might  at  length  fall  in 
with  our  wishes. 

On  the  following  morning  few  were  present  to  see 
us  depart,  and  these  were  there  only  for  the  purpose 
of  escorting  us  off  the  premises.  Their  curiosity  was 
satiated.  They  had  obtained  some  of  our  goods  and 
learnt  that  we  were  harmless,  and  all  they  now  desired 
was  to  see  the  last  of  us.  On  our  side  we  had  gained 
much.  Careful  and  elaborate  measurements  of  many 
men  had  been  made  as  well  as  a large  number  of  photo- 
graphs taken  with  the  cinematograph  and  the  ordinary 
camera,  and  in  addition  we  had  obtained  many  of  their 
goods  by  exchange.  As  no  quarrels  or  unpleasantness 
had  occurred,  it  was  hoped  that  the  impression  the  visit 
had  left  on  their  minds  was  a pleasant  one. 

So  soon  as  the  camp  was  packed  ready  for  the  return 
march,  the  pygmies  uncouth  behaviour  became  more 
evident,  for  abandoning  all  fear,  they  crowded  round, 
grasping  eagerly  at  everything  offered,  pushing  and 
jostling  one  another,  and  even  snatching  the  goods  out 
of  each  other’s  hands.  One  old  man  to  whom  we  had 
given  some  tobacco  had  it  taken  away  from  him,  bit 
by  bit,  till  nought  remained.  When  trading  on  the 
previous  day  they  would  have  nothing  to  do  with 
looking-glasses,  refusing  to  even  look  them,  but  now, 
when  offered  as  free  gifts,  they  fought  amongst  them- 
selves like  a pack  of  wolves. 

263 


MEASUREMENTS  OF  PYGMIES 


We  were  only  escorted  as  far  as  the  crest  of  the  hill, 
and  then,  left  to  ourselves,  we  travelled  back  to  the 
Kapare  as  fast  as  our  carriers  could  move.  Thence 
after  packing  up  Grant's  camp,  the  entire  party  set 
out  for  Parimau,  reaching  that  place  two  days  later 
(November  13th),  thoroughly  satisfied  with  our  trip. 

For  those  of  my  readers  who  are  interested  in  anthropology,  a 
comparative  list  of  the  measurements  taken  during  this  and  other 
journeys  is  attached,  from  which  it  will  be  found  that  the  average 
height  of  the  Tapiro  pygmies  was  found  to  be  4 feet  SJ  inches,  and 
that  of  the  ordinary  Papuan  of  the  plains  5 feet  6J  inches.  Thirty 
men  of  each  were  measured,  but  I am  inclined  to  think  that  if  the 
whole  of  the  Tapiro  tribe  were  to  be  put  under  the  standard  measure 
the  height  would  be  found  to  be  less  by  half  an  inch  or  more,  as 
naturally  enough  only  the  bolder,  and  therefore  stronger,  men  would 
trust  themselves  in  our  hands. 


Tapiro  Pygmies. 

Parimau  Men. 

Coast 

Tribes. 

European. 

Skin  colour  . 

Brown 

Dark  brown 

Very  dark 
brown 

... 

Hair  colour  . 

Black  and  brown 

Black 

Black 

Hair  on  face  . 

Plentiful 

Scanty 

9? 

Moderate 

body 

Scanty 

Plentiful 

Height  of  stature  . 

144-6  cms. 

166-4  cms. 

166-14  cms. 

167 

Girth  of  chest 

79  „ 

90 

92-1  „ 

86-7 

Vertex  of  tragus  . 

12-3  „ 

13-32  „ 

13-3  „ 

13-8 

Head  length  . 

17-71  „ 

18-72  „ 

18-73  „ 

19-5 

Head  breadth 

14-21  „ 

14-4  „ 

13-7  „ 

15"5 

Face  breadth . 

13T2  „ 

13-44  „ 

13-6  „ 

Bigonial  breadth  . 

11-38  „ 

12-27  „ 

11-83  „ 

Face  length  . 

11-07  „ 

11-88  „ 

11-8  „ 

... 

Nose  length  . 

519  .. 

5-38  „ 

5-33  .. 

„ breadth . 

4-2  „ 

4-63  „ 

4"57  ., 

Interocular  breadth 

3-2  „ 

3-4  ,. 

3-4 

Nose 

Straight,  broad, 
fiat 

Straight,  broad, 
flat 

Straight, 
broad,  flat 

Nasal  bridge  . 

Nearly  absent 

Slight 

Slight 

Lips 

Medium 

Medium 

Medium 

Prognathism  . 

Absent 

Absent 

Absent 

Jaw  angle 

Marked 

Marked 

Marked 

Chin 

Square,  also 

pointed 

Pointed 

Square 

Shape  of  face . 

Short,  oval 

Long  oval 

Long  oval 

Prominence  of 
cheek-bones 

Medium 

Medium 

Medium 

... 

264 


CHAPTER  XIX1 


Dwarfs  and  giants — The  Pygmy  question — Negritos  and  Negrillos — Head- 
form — Origin  of  Pygmies — Various  views — An  open  question — Pygmy 
culture — Weapons — Fire-making — The  use  of  stone — Arts  and  crafts 
— Decorative  art — Social  and  tribal  organisation — Status — Antiquity 


WARFS  and  giants  of  our  own  colour  are  fasci- 


nating in  a side-show,  but  embarrassing  in  private 
life.  We  cannot  meet  them  on  an  equal  footing,  and 
if  our  disapproval  of  the  giant  is  mingled  with  respect, 
our  pity  for  the  dwarf  is  not  free  from  a suspicion  of 
contempt.  The  interest  they  excite  is  a tribute  to  the 
abnormal,  which  attracts  by  repulsion.  A black  dwarf 
of  pygmy  breed  is,  however,  not  a monstrosity. 

Men  of  science,  and  the  public  to  a less  extent,  have 
long  been  interested  in  the  differences  in  stature  that 
are  to  be  met  with  both  within  and  between  the 
races  and  peoples  of  mankind.  The  interest  is  partly 
scientific,  partly  human,  and  it  may  influence  our  atti- 
tude towards  other  nations  so  much  as  to  receive 
popular  expression.  There  is,  for  example,  a tendency 
to  associate  low  stature  not  only  with  physical  defi- 
ciency, but  with  mental  inferiority,  and  to  look  down 
upon  those  smaller  than  ourselves.  For  this  reason,  in 
part  at  least,  the  Japanese  in  their  recent  rapid  advances 
have  received  the  applause  reserved  for  unexpected  and 
surprising  merit.  They  are  “clever  little  fellows.” 

Our  concern  in  the  present  chapter  is  with  peoples 
whose  average  stature  is  much  lower  than  that  of  the 

1 This  chapter  is  written  by  Dr.  H.  S.  Harrison,  D.Sc.,  F.R.A.I. 


265 


THE  PYGMY  QUESTION 

Japanese,  who  are  by  no  means  dwarfs.  Tribes  of  very 
small  men  of  negroid  aspect  have  long  been  known  to 
exist  in  some  tropical  regions,  and  there  is  convincing 
evidence  that  the  ancient  Egyptians  were  familiar  with 
the  African  type  of  these  people.  In  more  modern 
times  our  knowledge  has  been  greatly  extended,  the 
discoveries  being  usually  due  in  the  first  place  to  the 
zealous  curiosity  of  the  traveller  and  explorer.  After 
the  traveller  follows  the  anthropologist,  with  more  or 
less  celerity  according  to  the  amenities  of  the  environ- 
ment, and  the  newly  discovered  tribe  is  studied  with  an 
intensity  which  fails  only  to  reveal  its  opinion  of  the 
investigators.  Unfortunately  for  science,  if  not  for  them, 
the  pygmies  are  shy  and  retiring  people,  living  mainly 
in  jungles  not  easily  reached  or  penetrated,  and  there 
are  very  many  gaps  in  the  knowledge  we  have  of  them. 

In  the  case  of  the  Tapiro  of  New  Guinea,  discovered 
by  Captain  Rawling  and  his  colleagues,  circumstances 
prevented  anything  but  a preliminary  survey,  though 
the  information  gained  is  sufficient  to  show  that  they 
fall  into  line  with  other  pygmies  scattered  in  small 
groups  over  a wide  but  discontinuous  area  of  the  earth’s 
surface.  Whether  the  line  is  genealogical  or  not 
gives  ground  for  discussion.  It  is  at  any  rate  worth 
while  to  allow  Captain  Rawling  to  pause  in  his  narra- 
tive, whilst  we  consider  the  bearings  of  the  discovery 
of  pygmies  in  this  new  locality.  It  is  not  essential 
that  we  should  come  to  any  conclusions  as  to  the 
origin  and  significance  of  pygmy  people  in  general,  or 
the  Tapiro  in  particular,  but  we  may  find  sufficient 
evidence  to  convince  us  that  there  is  an  anthropological 
“ pygmy  question,”  not  devoid  of  importance. 

Conspicuous  amongst  the  physical  characters  of  the 
Tapiro  are  the  low  stature,  the  woolly  hair,  the  dark 

266 


NEGRITOS  AND  NEGRILLOS 

skin,  and  the  broad  head.  To  use  the  language  of 
science,  they  are  ulotrichous  melanic  brachycephals 1 of 
an  average  height  of  less  than  five  feet.  The  same 
definition  may  be  applied  to  certain  pygmy  tribes 
found  in  regions  not  far  distant,  and  also  in  Central 
Africa.  The  former  are  usually  called  Negritos,  and 
the  latter  are  often  spoken  of  as  Negrillos.  The 
Negrito  group  has  hitherto  included  only  the  Anda- 
manese of  the  Andaman  Islands,  the  Semang  of  parts 
of  the  Malay  Peninsula,  aud  the  A eta  of  the  Philip- 
pines. To  these  must  now  be  added  the  pygmies  of 
Dutch  New  Guinea,  for  which  the  only  native  name 
at  present  known  is  that  of  Tapir o.  The  Negrillos  of 
Central  Africa  need  not  be  subdivided  for  our  present 
purposes,  and  the  Bushman  of  South  Africa,  though 
probably  allied  to  the  Negrillos,  must  be  left  out  of 
account  altogether.  The  word  pygmy  will  be  used 
here  with  sole  reference  to  the  Negrillos  and  Negritos, 
the  only  dwarf  peoples  with  woolly  hair. 

Before  passing  on  to  more  general  aspects  of  the 
subject,  something  further  must  be  said  of  the  physical 
characters  which  are  common  to  all  our  pygmies,  and 
which  have,  indeed,  led  to  the  provisional  association 
of  the  several  types  in  one  group.  In  their  general 
aspect  they  have  the  appearance  of  negro  dwarfs,  a 
very  important  feature  of  resemblance  to  the  true  negro 
being  in  the  nature  of  the  hair.  This  is  a valuable 
diagnostic  character  in  the  main  classification  of  man- 
kind, since  straight,  wavy,  and  woolly  hair  respectively 
are  typical  of  the  chief  races.  Skin  colour  is  less  im- 

1 The  head  is  not  very  broad,  however,  and  some  pygmies  are  mesati. 
cephalic,  or  medium-headed,  if  a middle  term  between  broad  and  narrow  is 
used.  In  any  case  it  is  a question  of  averages,  individual  narrow  heads 
being  sometimes  met  with. 


267 


HEAD-FORM 


port  ant,  but  some  pygmies  tend  to  have  a lighter  tint 
than  that  of  the  negroes ; there  is,  however,  considerable 
diversity  in  both  groups.  The  jaws  of  the  pygmies  do 
not  show  any  special  degree  of  protrusion  (prognathism), 
though  the  lips  are  sometimes  thick  and  prominent. 
The  nose  is  usually  sunken  at  the  root,  broad,  and  flat. 
Except  for  the  absence  of  prognathism,  there  is  a fairly 
close  correspondence  with  the  negroes,  African  and 
Oceanic,  in  these  characters.  It  is  when  we  apply  to 
the  pygmies  the  epithet  “ brachycephalic,”  or  broad- 
headed, that  we  distinguish  them  most  clearly  from  the 
negro,  whose  head  is  usually  of  such  a shape  as  to  call 
for  the  application  of  the  term  “ dolichocephalic,”  or 
narrow-headed,  to  its  possessor.  That  is  to  say,  the 
head  of  the  average  pygmy,  as  seen  from  above,  pre- 
sents an  oval  outline  which  is  less  elongated  in  proportion 
to  its  breadth  than  that  of  the  negro’s  head  from  the 
same  point  of  view.  The  difference  can  be  expressed 
in  figures,  but  these  may  be  taken  for  granted.  It 
is  sufficient  to  say  that  this  method  of  classifying 
heads  and  skulls,  although  not  now  regarded  as  the 
strongest  crutch  of  the  student  of  racial  connections,  is 
a support  upon  which  he  feels  justified  in  bearing  with 
considerable  weight.  Nothing  is  known  as  to  the 
advantages,  if  any,  which  might  accrue  from  a change 
in  the  shape  of  the  head,  nor  have  we  any  knowledge 
as  to  the  causes  or  conditions  which  might  bring  this 
about.  Even  though  we  adhere  to  the  orthodox  belief 
in  the  relatively  permanent  character  of  the  average 
head-form  of  races  and  peoples,  the  possibility  of  nar- 
row-headed negroes  giving  rise  to  broad-headed  pygmies, 
or  vice  versa,  cannot  be  excluded  from  our  philosophy. 
There  is  not  sufficient  evidence  to  prove  either  alterna- 
tive, or  disprove  them  both. 

268 


Plainsmen  and  Pygmies 

Two  plainsmen  and  four  pygmies.  The  cap  and  bags  are  of  woven  grass. 


ORIGIN  OF  PYGMIES 


This  brings  us  to  the  consideration  of  a theory  as  to 
the  origin  of  pygmies  which  has  had  some  casual  vogue. 
The  theory  suggests  that  the  pygmies  are  men  of 
stunted  growth,  fallen  from  their  high  estate,  and 
having  their  origin  in  unfavourable  environments,  where 
want  and  hardships  have  led  to  a reduction  of  stature. 
There  are  many  arguments  against  this  view,  though  it 
has  an  attractive  air  of  simplicity.  The  anthropological 
pygmy  question  is  not  solved  by  being  passed  on  to  the 
physiologists  and  biologists.  Insufficient  food  and  other 
privations  may  dwarf  the  individual,  body  and  soul,  but 
it  remains  to  be  shown  that  a persistence  of  such  con- 
ditions through  many  generations  will  produce  a per- 
manently stunted  race,  whether  capable  or  not  of 
regaining  full  stature  under  the  influence  of  a new 
and  more  benign  environment. 

Even  on  the  assumption  that  the  inheritance  of 
acquired  characters  has  been  a factor  in  evolution — no 
small  assumption — there  is  no  proof  that  the  ancestors 
of  the  pygmies  lived  under  conditions  less  favourable 
than  their  descendants.  These  are  found  at  the  present 
day  in  close  proximity  to  full-sized  peoples,  and  it  does 
not  appear  that  physically  there  is  much  to  choose 
between  pygmy  and  Papuan  or  African  negro  in  any- 
thing but  stature.  Though  they  live  the  simple  life, 
the  pygmies  show  no  signs  of  degeneracy,  and  they  are 
known  to  be  experts  in  their  own  line,  which  is  that  of 
hunting.  If,  also,  a woolly-haired  pygmy  is  in  ultimate 
origin  a dwarfed  negro,  he  has  succeeded  in  surviving  in 
several  regions  where  the  negro  is  no  longer  found,  and 
where  he  lives  beside  his  reputed  parent  stock,  as  in 
Central  Africa,  he  has  changed  his  head-form  and  his 
skin-colour,  as  well  as  his  stature,  to  an  extent  which 
may  be  stigmatised  as  unfilial.  The  reduction  hypo- 

269 


VARIOUS  VIEWS 


thesis  is  emphatically  not  proven,  and  the  discover}' 
of  the  Tapiro  has  added  no  evidence  in  its  favour.  The 
dark-coloured  woolly-haired  Papuans  of  New  Guinea 
are  dolichocephalic,  and  although  they  are  of  lower 
stature  than  the  average  African  negro,  they  stand 
physically  in  much  the  same  relation  to  the  Tapiro  as 
the  African  negroes  do  to  the  Negrillos. 

In  rejecting  the  hypothesis  of  reduction  by  priva- 
tions, we  do  not  exclude  the  possibility  that  the  pygmy  is 
a variation  or  a “ sport,”  arising  from  the  negroid  stock 
as  a result  of  unknown  causes,  whether  environmental 
or  physiological,  or  both.  To  take  this  view  is  to  give 
ourselves  over  to  the  elusive  pleasures  of  speculation, 
since,  as  in  the  allied  hypothesis  just  considered,  there 
is  a lack  of  any  real  evidence.  At  some  remote  period 
in  the  history  of  man,  it  is  possible  that  there  was  an 
ancestral  stock  which  gave  rise  to  both  pygmies  and 
negroes,  or  it  may  be  that  the  latter  are  derived  from 
early  types  of  the  former.  Either  of  these  views  seems 
to  be  more  in  accordance  with  the  existing  relationships 
than  any  theory  as  to  the  relatively  late  origin  of  pygmy 
from  negro  or  Papuan,  whether  by  slow  modification 
or  by  mutation.  It  would  certainly  appear  that  the 
pygmy  is  more  closely  allied  to  the  negroid  peoples 
than  either  of  them  to  any  other  race,  but  further  than 
this  we  can  scarcely  go. 

As  to  the  significance  of  the  physical  features,  and 
the  distribution,  of  negroes  and  pygmies  in  connection 
with  the  wider  problem  of  the  origin  of  man,  it  is  easier 
to  be  discursive  than  pertinent.  Both  are  found  on 
either  side  the  Indian  Ocean,  the  African  negroes 
corresponding  to  the  Oceanic  negroes  (i.e.  the  Papuans 
and  the  less  hybrid  of  the  Melanesians  of  the  Western 
Pacific),  and  the  Negrillos  to  the  Negritos.  It  has 

270 


AN  OPEN  QUESTION 

been  supposed,  not  without  protests  from  America, 
that  man  arose  from  his  simian  precursor  somewhere 
within  a zone  extending  over  the  present  area  of  dis- 
tribution of  pygmies,  negroids,  and  great  apes,  this 
zone  including  land  which  now  lies  beneath  the  waters 
of  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  real  evidence  we  have  is 
certainly  in  favour  of  the  old-world  origin  of  man,  and 
the  probabilities  support  the  view  that  it  occurred  in 
some  part  of  the  region  indicated. 

Apart  from  the  extinct  Pithecanthropus,  apparently 
an  ape-like  man  or  man-like  ape,  whose  scanty  remains 
were  found  in  Java  some  years  ago,  the  area  has  not, 
however,  provided  us  with  connecting  links  between 
man  and  the  existing  apes.  The  fossilised  bones  of 
some  of  these  may  lie  below  the  surface  of  the  land 
and  yet  be  discovered,  or  in  the  earth  beneath  the 
waters  and  beyond  our  reach.  In  any  case  the  modern 
pygmies  and  negroids,  although  physically  in  some 
points  nearer  to  the  existing  apes  than  we  are  our- 
selves, do  not  approach  so  closely  to  the  animal 
type  as  did  our  predecessors  of  Palaeolithic  times  in 
Europe.  In  many  respects,  indeed,  the  pygmies  are 
more  infantile  than  simian.  Whatever  importance  we 
may  attach  to  them  they  help  us  little  in  any  attempt 
to  realise  the  characters  of  our  remote  ancestors,  and 
their  position  in  any  table  of  the  general  inter-relation- 
ships of  the  races  of  man  must  remain  unsettled  for  the 
present. 

So  far  our  labour  of  threshing  has  revealed  a quantity 
of  chaff  and  little  grain.  It  may  profit  us  to  turn  our 
attention  to  another  and  perhaps  more  fertile  field,  and  in 
taking  this  course  we  may  at  least  obtain  a clearer  view 
of  the  life  and  activities  of  the  pygmy  people,  as  well 
as  of  the  position  they  occupy  in  the  scale  of  culture. 

271 


PYGMY  CULTURE 

Taken  as  a whole,  the  pygmies  have  not  advanced 
beyond  what  is  regarded  as  the  lowest  stage  of  recent 
human  culture.  They  are  primarily  hunters,  and 
collectors  of  such  edible  animal  and  plant  food  as  may 
practically  be  had  for  the  finding.  When,  as  in  a few 
instances,  they  have  taken  to  the  cultivation  of  food- 
plants,  it  has  usually  been  in  a half-hearted  way, 
suggestive  of  distaste  for  the  labour  and  lack  of  confi- 
dence in  the  result,  like  a poacher  saddled  with  an 
allotment.  The  Tapiro,  in  this  as  in  some  other  direc- 
tions, appear  to  have  adopted  alien  customs  with  more 
thoroughness,  since  they  grow  sweet  potatoes,  taro, 
tobacco,  and  bananas,  presumably  with  success.  Their 
pile-dwellings,  built  on  land,  resemble  those  of  the 
natives  of  some  other  parts  of  New  Guinea,  and  are 
much  superior  to  the  'wind  screens  and  simple  huts  of 
most  other  pygmies.  Since  the  practice  of  plant  culti- 
vation tends  to  wean  the  hunter  from  his  nomadic  life, 
by  providing  a constant  supply  of  food  in  one  spot,  the 
Tapiro  have  done  well  to  model  their  houses  on  those 
of  a more  advanced  people,  and  so  fix  themselves  still 
more  firmly  to  the  soil.  As  far  as  can  be  judged  from 
the  facts  available,  it  is  in  agriculture  and  architecture 
that  the  Tapiro  have  departed  most  widely  from  the 
practices  of  other  pygmy  groups,  though  they  have  not 
confined  their  borrowing  to  these  activities. 

The  use  of  the  bow,  which  is  a relatively  advanced 
t}’pe  of  weapon,  is  common  to  all  known  pygmy  peoples, 
and  it  has  indeed  been  suggested  that  they  were  the 
original  inventors  of  the  bow  and  arrows.  Spears, 
clubs,  and  shields  are  rare,  and  when  they  are  used  the 
possibility  of  the  influence  of  other  races  cannot  be 
excluded.  The  methods  of  fire-making  practised  by 
pygmies  are  all  based  on  the  production  of  heat  by  the 

272 


THE  USE  OF  STONE 


friction  of  one  piece  of  wood  on  another.  The  fire-saw, 
the  fire-plough,  and  the  fire-drill  are  all  in  use,  one  or 
more  of  them,  by  the  different  groups,  and  a “ fire- 
strap  ” method  similar  to  that  of  the  Tapiro  is  employed 
by  the  Semang  of  the  Malay  Peninsula  ; this  method  is 
also  used  in  Borneo,  Assam,  and  by  non-pygmy  tribes 
in  New  Guinea,  so  that  it  cannot  be  regarded  as  a 
characteristic  pygmy  device,  though  it  may  be  of 
pygmy  origin. 

In  the  selection  of  the  raw  material  for  their  tools 
and  weapons  the  pygmies  present  us  with  an  interesting 
example  of  the  simplicity  with  which  efficiency  may 
be  achieved.  Our  studies  of  the  early  history  of  man 
in  Western  Europe  tend  to  imbue  us  with  the  idea 
that  in  the  absence  of  metal  many  of  the  tools  and 
weapons  of  backward  races  must  be  of  stone,  or 
provided  with  stone  points  and  blades.  It  is  by  a 
consideration  of  the  simple  appliances  of  the  pygmy 
peoples  that  we  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  stone  is 
by  no  means  essential  to  primitive  man.  In  tropical 
regions  at  least,  wood,  bamboo,  bone,  and  shell  can 
provide  all  that  is  needful  for  the  hunter,  and  the  use 
of  stone  by  the  pygmies  is  practically  confined  to  the 
application,  for  certain  purposes,  of  hammer-stones  and 
of  flakes  and  splinters  such  as  may  be  obtained  with  a 
minimum  of  labour  and  skill.  They  do  not  make,  and 
it  is  not  probable  that  they  have  ever  made,  the  stone 
axe-heads,  knives,  and  arrow-heads  which  are  charac- 
teristic of  many  advanced  stone-age  peoples,  ancient 
and  modern,  and  they  do  not  even  get  so  far  as  to  chip 
stone  into  implements  comparable  with  those  of  the 
men  of  the  European  Palaeolithic  Age.  The  pygmies 
are  in  an  “age”  of  wood,  bone,  and  shell,  and  if  some 
of  them,  such  as  the  Andamanese,  make  use  of  iron,  it 

273 


& 


ARTS  AND  CRAFTS 


is  only  as  a borrowed  material,  foreign  to  their  own 
culture.  The  Tapiro  appear  to  have  an  axe  and  per- 
haps other  tools  with  iron  blades,  but  whilst  the  axe 
as  a tool  is  no  doubt  derived  from  that  of  the  Papuans, 
the  material  for  the  blades  must  be  introduced  in  the 
course  of  trade  and  traffic.  The  Papuans  themselves 
are  in  their  age  of  stone,  though  they  show  no  reluctance 
to  adopt  the  iron  of  more  advanced  races. 

In  their  arts  and  crafts  the  pygmies  maintain  the 
simplicity  which  is  characteristic  of  their  life  in  general. 
No  spinning  or  weaving  is  practised,  and  the  art  of 
pottery-making  is  only  known  in  one  or  two  instances. 
Clothing  is  at  a discount,  but  in  the  case  of  the  women 
very  rarely  entirely  absent,  and  not  always  wanting 
in  the  men.  Even  the  ornamentation  of  the  person, 
whether  by  means  of  necklets  and  other  “jewellery” 
or  by  painting  and  tattooing,  is  not  highly  developed, 
though  considerable  variation  is  found  amongst  the 
different  groups.  The  Tapiro,  for  example,  appear  to 
be  more  than  usually  addicted  to  the  display  of  orna- 
ments, though  they  do  not  scarify  or  tattoo  the  skin. 

True  and  indigenous  musical  instruments  are  prob- 
ably wanting  amongst  the  pygmies,  and  are  represented 
by  such  time-beating  instruments  as  the  curved  wooden 
board  of  the  Andamanese,  kicked  with  the  heel  as  an 
accompaniment  to  native  dances.  The  “jew’s  harp” 
of  the  Tapiro  is  no  doubt  borrowed  from  their  neigh- 
bours. Decorative  art  is  at  a low  level  in  most  cases, 
its  highest  development  being  found  amongst  the 
Semang,  in  close  association  with  a belief  in  magic  ; in 
this  group  patterns  of  considerable  complexity,  chiefly 
of  a geometrical  character,  are  incised  on  bamboo 
quivers,  blow-tubes,  combs,  &c.,  and  have  the  virtue 
of  warding  off  dangers  and  disease,  or  ensuring  a full 

.2.74 


SOCIAL  ORGANISATION 

bag  to  the  hunter.  The  Andamanese  practise  a kind 
of  painting  with  liquid  clay  or  coloured  wax,  but  the 
designs  are  geometrical  and  undeveloped.  We  know 
very  little  as  yet  of  the  decorative  art  of  the  Tapiro, 
though  the  carvings  on  the  arrows  have  a general 
similarity  to  geometrical  designs  found  on  some  Papuan 
arrows.  On  the  whole,  the  material  culture  of  the 
Tapiro,  even  so  far  as  it  is  at  present  known,  appears 
to  have  been  very  considerably  affected  by  that  of 
other  New  Guinea  peoples. 

We  have  no  information  as  to  the  manners  and 
customs,  and  the  social  or  tribal  organisation  of  the 
Tapiro,  but  if  they  are  in  agreement  with  other  pygmy 
groups  there  will  be  no  departure  from  the  prevailing 
simplicity.  Amongst  these,  totemism  and  clan  systems 
are  wanting  or  rudimentary,  hereditary  chieftainship  is 
apparently  unknown,  and  the  social  groups  partake  of 
the  nature  of  family  associations,  the  villages,  if  such 
exist,  being  always  small.  There  is  no  ancestor  cult 
or  ceremonial  spirit-worship,  but  in  some  cases  at  least 
a belief  in  supernatural  beings  is  known  to  prevail,  and 
there  may  even  be  recognition  of  a supreme  deity. 
Monogamy  is  usual,  and  women  are  not  ill-treated. 
Death  appears  to  be  regarded  as  a natural  event,  and 
not,  as  in  many  other  instances,  as  a result  of  witch- 
craft or  sorcery.  Burial  of  the  dead  in  the  ground 
is  customary,  though  platform  and  tree  burial  are 
occasionally  practised  in  certain  groups. 

In  spite  of  the  smallness  of  their  numbers,  and  their 
insignificance  in  comparison  with  the  larger  and  more 
powerful  communities  by  which  they  are  in  most  cases 
surrounded,  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  the 
pygmies  are  despised  or  despicable.  They  live  on  good 
terms  with  their  bigger  neighbours,  whether  negro  or 

275 


STATUS 

other,  and  trade  with  them  apparently  on  an  equal 
footing.  Their  habits  are  usually  such  as  to  render 
warfare  against  them  unsuccessful  and  unprofitable, 
but  it  is  probable  that  esteem  is  not  lacking  in  the 
toleration  accorded  to  them.  In  some  cases  it  is  known 
that  they  consider  themselves  the  original  owners  of 
the  territory  they  occupy  and  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  their  claim  is  admitted — academically  at 
least — by  their  neighbours.  Their  form  of  speech  is 
usually  closely  related  to  that  of  neighbouring  races, 
and  as  far  as  is  known  there  is  no  pygmy  language 
which  presents  especially  primitive  features. 

There  is  no  evidence  that  their  low  stature  is  asso- 
ciated with  defective  mental  development,  and  they 
have  in  some  cases  been  found  to  be  at  least  as  bright 
and  teachable  as  other  lower  races  of  full  size.  They 
succeed  in  maintaining  their  independence,  and  they  are 
notably  skilful  in  the  chase,  since  the  tiger,  the  rhino- 
ceros, the  elephant,  and  the  buffalo,  in  Asia  or  Africa  as 
the  case  may  be,  are  attacked  and  overmatched  by  their 
agility  and  cunning.  Morally  they  show  no  signs  of 
degradation,  and,  indeed,  as  far  as  the  facts  are  known 
they  appear  to  be  on  a relatively  high  level  in  this 
respect. 

In  this  brief  review  of  the  state  of  culture  of  the 
pygmy  peoples  much  has  been  omitted,  and  the  parti- 
cular has  been  submerged  in  the  general,  with  a conse- 
quent loss  of  precision.  Little  has  been  said  as  to  the 
intermixture  that  has  taken  place  with  other  races, 
though  this  has  had  important  effects  on  both  sides.  It 
has  long  been  suggested  that  there  is  evidence  of  a 
pygmy  strain  in  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  New  Guinea, 
and  with  the  discovery  of  the  Tapiro  the  postulated 
Negrito  influence  has  been  shown  to  exist  in  reality. 

276 


ANTIQUITY 

Recently,  also,  Williamson  has  put  forward  the  view  that 
the  Mafulu  and  some  neighbouring  tribes  of  British 
New  Guinea  are  a mixture  of  Negritos,  Papuans,  and 
Papuo-Melanesians. 

If  we  endeavour  to  arrive  at  conclusions  as  to  the 
antiquity  of  the  pygmy  peoples  and  their  inter-relation- 
ships amongst  themselves,  we  find  firmer  ground  than 
when  we  attempt  to  discuss  their  origin  and  their  rela- 
tionships with  other  races.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to 
avoid  the  conclusion  that  the  Andamanese,  the  Semang, 
the  Aeta,  and  the  Tapiro  form  one  race,  more  or  less 
contaminated  in  the  different  localities.  The  same  must 
be  said  of  the  various  Negrillo  tribes  of  Africa,  and  we 
thus  assert  that  there  is  justification  for  the  classifi- 
cation of  the  pygmy  tribes  into  two  main  groups.  That 
these  two  groups  are  closely  allied  is  highly  probable, 
and  in  this  case  there  is  a pygmy  race.  Whether  we 
speak  of  this  race  as  a whole,  or  confine  ourselves  non- 
committally to  the  Negritos  and  Negrillos  as  two  estab- 
lished groups,  we  are  justified  in  the  provisional  belief 
that  we  are  dealing  with  the  scattered  and  reduced  rem- 
nants of  an  ancient  race  (or  of  two  races),  whose  former 
wide  territory  has  been  invaded  and  annexed,  in  some 
cases  many  times  over.  They  have  been  swept  away 
into  obscurity  by  a succession  of  alien  brooms.  The 
material  and  social  culture  of  the  pygmies  bears  a 
primitive  stamp,  suggestive  of  persistence  since  the 
infancy  of  man,  and  they  appeal  to  us  as  true  aborigines 
wherever  they  are  found.  Who  or  what  came  before 
them  we  are  at  liberty  to  conjecture,  bearing  always 
in  mind  that  in  their  physical  structure  they  are 
practically  as  far  removed  from  the  apes  as  we  are 
ourselves. 

In  conclusion,  the  definite  record  of  pygmies  in  New 

277 


VALUE  OF  THE  DISCOVERY 

Guinea  is  an  event  of  great  importance,  and  all  anthro- 
pologists will  be  grateful  to  this  expedition  and  its 
leaders.  The  discovery  does  not  solve  the  pygmy 
problem,  but  it  provides  additional  clues  and  also 
throws  light  upon  the  riddles  of  racial  admixture  in 
New  Guinea.  Further  investigations  are  not  likely  to 
lead  to  disappointment,  though  new  questions  and  new 
difficulties  will  no  doubt  arise.  It  is,  however,  no 
cause  for  regret  that  discoveries  in  science,  like  social 
revolutions,  open  up  more  problems  than  they  solve. 

H.  S.  H. 


278 


CHAPTER  XX 


Return  to  the  coast — No  coolies — A fine  dancing  hall — Native  music — 
Dancing— The  tocsin  of  war — A false  alarm — A peaceful  time — Myriads 
of  crabs — Native  children — Childrens’  games — Methods  of  fishing — 
Brush  turkey 

THE  end  of  November.  With  the  exception  of 
adding  specimens  to  the  zoological  collection,  it 
must  be  remembered  that  at  this  period  the  expedi- 
tion was  “ marking  time.”  To  all  intents  and  purposes 
coolie  transport  was  non-existent,  and  it  was  useless  to 
hazard  a guess  as  to  the  time  when  a fresh  supply  would 
be  obtained,  seeing  that  Goodfellow,  suffering  from 
malaria  and  beri-beri,  had  departed  by  a ship  which 
called  on  5th  October,  and  it  was  doubtful  as  to  when  he 
would  be  in  a fit  state  to  recruit  new  men.  The  time  of 
engagement  of  the  few  remaining  coolies  was  nearly  at 
an  end  and,  in  order  to  husband  our  advanced  stores 
everyone,  with  the  exception  of  Grant  and  an  escort, 
moved  back  to  Wakatimi.  Shortridge  was  likewise 
seriously  ill,  fever  having  again  attacked  him  upon  his 
return  from  Australia.  He  did  his  best  to  conceal  his 
illness,  but  it  was  manifest  that  he  could  no  longer 
stay  in  the  country,  and  must  leave  by  the  first  boat. 

On  the  way  down  seventeen  canoes  were  passed, 
travelling  in  a compact  mass  and  filled  with  those  who, 
a month  previously,  had  fled  from  Parimau  to  escape 
the  floods.  They  seemed  much  pleased  with  themselves 
and  begged  us  to  return,  the  mothers  showing  with 
pride  their  last  born,  whilst  Wollaston’s  patients  exhi- 

279 


NO  COOLIES 


bited  their  healed  wounds,  caused  principally  by  the 
steel  axes  and  knives  which  were  usually  wielded  with 
more  enthusiasm  than  discretion.  Their  wealth  of  axes 
and  knives  had  bred  in  them  a feeling  of  superiority 
over  the  coast  people,  and  had  encouraged  them  to 
cross  the  dividing  of  their  tribes  and  camp  on  the  land 
of  their  enemies.  The  Wakatimi  people  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  were  either  too  timid  or  too  engrossed  in  their 
pursuits  to  resist  the  invasion,  but  that  the  raiders  antici- 
pated reprisals  was  evident  to  judge  from  the  scouting 
canoes  in  the  rear  and  the  close  formation  adopted. 

Early  in  December  the  relief  ship  arrived,  but  to 
our  intense  disappointment  without  bringing  a single 
coolie,  and  the  only  information  we  could  obtain  was  to 
the  effect  that  a fresh  lot  might  be  expected  before 
Christmas  Day. 

There  was  no  help  for  it ; we  had  to  wait  and  fill  in 
the  time  as  best  we  could  and  prepare,  as  far  as  possible, 
for  the  advent  of  the  men.  The  survivors  of  our  last 
detachment  were  placed  on  board,  with  the  exception  of 
two  who  still  wished  to  stay  with  us,  as  they  had  gambled 
away  the  whole  of  their  pay,  and  were  afraid  to  return 
to  their  homes  without  a penny  in  their  pockets.  We 
were  sorry  to  lose  them,  for  they  had  worked  well  and 
had  undergone  much  hardship  since  joining  the  expedi- 
tion eight  months  previously.  They  had  been  recruited 
mainly  from  the  island  of  Buton,  from  whence  come, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Dyaks  of  Borneo,  the  best 
men  to  be  found  in  the  Dutch  East  Indies. 

Shortridge  and  Wollaston  likewise  sailed,  the  former 
for  England,  the  latter  on  a visit  to  the  Utakwa  and 
Island  rivers  where  Dutch  expeditions  were  then  at 
work,  and  from  thence  to  Merauke,  the  chief  Dutch 
settlement  in  the  Possession. 

280 


A FINE  DANCING  HALL 

Marshall  and  I,  left  to  our  own  resources,  moved  to 
the  coast  and  pitched  camp  on  the  seashore  close  to  the 
village  of  Atabo.  Our  new  neighbours  proved  less 
interesting  than  those  of  Parimau,  more  sulky  in  their 
manners  and  more  grasping  in  their  dealings.  Both 
this  village  and  Taroke  opposite  had  grown  considerably 
in  size,  and  a fine  dancing  hall,  by  far  the  largest  build- 
ing we  had  yet  seen,  had  been  erected.  Made  of  mat- 
ting, it  had  a length  of  fifty  feet,  a width  of  fifteen  and 
a height  of  eighteen  feet.  The  interior  was  completely 
bare,  except  for  half  a dozen  fireplaces  round  the  sides, 
and  for  decorative  purposes  strings  of  hanging  grass 
stretched  from  wall  to  wall.  Five  doorways  gave 
entrance  to  a floor  of  white  sand.  It  was  altogether  an 
ideal  place  in  which  to  dance  and  sing,  pastimes  beloved 
of  the  native ; and  not  only  by  the  native,  but  much 
appreciated  by  us. 

Among  the  happiest  recollections  of  our  sojourn  in 
New  Guinea  remain  the  memories  of  concerts  begun 
in  the  evening  and  often  carried  on  throughout  the  live- 
long night.  The  music,  whether  associated  with  funeral 
rites  or  festivities,  was  invariably  pleasing  to  the  ear,  and 
most  charming  when  wafted  across  the  still  waters  of 
the  lagoon.  To  the  accompaniment  of  a single  drum, 
or  a very  orchestra  of  drums,  supported  by  the  deep- 
toned  hum  of  the  chorus,  the  vocalist  extolled  the 
pleasures  of  life,  the  joys  of  the  chase,  the  thrill  of 
the  battle  and,  if  we  had  been  liberal  in  distributing  the 
wages  of  the  day,  the  perfection  of  our  humble  selves. 
He  sat  cross-legged,  bedecked  in  a head-dress  of  plumes 
of  the  Greater  Bird  of  Paradise,  facing  the  drummers 
and  surrounded  by  the  entire  male  population  of  the 
village,  affording  as  pleasing  a sight  to  the  eye  as  the 
chant  was  to  the  ear. 


281 


NATIVE  MUSIC 

The  tunes  were  varied  and  harmonious,  to  which 
the  chorus  imparted  a touch  of  savagery  which  did  not 
detract  in  the  least  from  the  perfection  of  the  whole. 
Each  verse  concluded  with  a chorus  which  rose  an 
octave  and  finished  with  a bark  like  that  of  a dog,  given 
in  perfect  unison.  For  hours  on  end  was  this  carried 
on,  one  singer  giving  place  to  another  until  the  night 
sped  by  in  a ceaseless  flow  of  melody.  Attempts  were 
made  to  place  their  music  on  record,  but  without  much 
success,  not  that  the  tune  itself  was  hard  to  master,  but 
that  it  was  found  impossible  to  obtain  a grip  of  the 
chorus  reinforcement.  Now  and  again  three  or  four 
vocalists  would  perform  together,  their  plumes  waving 
in  the  air  and  affording  one  of  the  prettiest  sights 
imaginable. 

Women  are  never  allowed  to  add  their  voices  to 
those  of  the  men ; in  fact,  they  are  rarely  heard  at  all 
unless  they  are  abusing  one  another  or  telling  their 
masters  what  they  think  of  them.  In  place  of  singing, 
they  are  permitted  to  dance,  in  which  form  of  amuse- 
ment the  men  take  no  part,  regarding  it  as  much  be- 
neath their  dignity,  but  assist  in  so  far  that  they  wield 
the  drums.  The  musicians,  facing  inwards  and  with 
bodies  bent,  slowly  advance  and  retire  keeping  time 
with  a stick  or,  if  the  performance  is  being  carried  out 
in  darkness,  then  with  a flaming  torch.  The  women 
are  drawn  up  in  rows  and  bedecked  in  all  their  finery, 
special  care  being  taken  to  adopt  a light  and  feathery 
form  of  skirt  made  of  bark-cloth  or  leaves ; or,  as  it 
so  often  occurred  when  in  our  presence,  of  a sheet  of 
the  Daily  Mail,  the  most  popular  of  all  dresses.  The 
dancing  was  to  us  both  uninteresting  and  monotonous, 
and  consisted  merely  of  as  little  shuffling  of  the  feet  as  is 
compatible  with  the  maximum  undulatory  movements 

282 


A Dancing  Hall 

Erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mimika  River. 


Tapiro  Pygmies 

Seated  upon  the  rools  of  a tree  felled  by  a stone  axe,  and  discussing  the  situation. 


THE  TOCSIN  OF  WAR 

of  the  thighs  and  buttocks.  The  prima  donna  of  Pari- 
mau  was  a comely  wench,  loving  the  plaudits  of  the 
crowd,  and  whose  self-satisfied  air  when  performing  was 
worth  going  a mile  to  see. 

Soon  after  daybreak  men  would  wander  round  to 
the  camp  and  settle  themselves  in  groups  close  by, 
partly  to  see  what  they  could  pick  up  in  the  way  of 
food,  and  partly  because  they  were  bored  with  their 
existence  and  wanted  something  to  talk  about.  At  the 
same  time  the  women  and  girls  would  troop  away  over 
the  sands  in  search  of  shell  fish.  There  was  nothing  to 
disturb  the  daily  routine  of  the  women’s  work  or  inter- 
fere with  the  habitual  sloth  of  the  men. 

The  days  dragged  on  with  never-failing  monotony, 
till  one  morning  when  the  community  was  galvanised 
into  life.  We  were  sketching  at  the  time,  when  down 
the  river  echoed  a deep-toned  “ Wo,”  followed  almost 
immediately  by  the  appearance  of  two  canoes,  the 
paddlers  working  at  a furious  rate.  In  a moment  the 
men  were  racing,  some  to  their  huts  and  others  to  their 
dug-outs.  The  tocsin  of  war  had  sounded ; no  doubt 
a familiar  feature  previous  to  our  arrival.  F rantic  efforts 
were  made  to  launch  the  canoes  left  high  and  dry  by 
the  tide,  and  to  collect  clubs  and  spears  from  the  houses. 
Everyone  screamed  their  loudest.  The  women  and 
children,  shrieking  and  crying,  made  confusion  worse 
confounded  by  tearing  down  the  attap  roofing  of  the 
huts,  flinging  their  goods  and  chattels  into  the  canoes 
and  snatching  up  scraps  of  half-cooked  food.  Fires 
were  scattered  in  the  rush,  the  dogs  howled  and  refused 
to  be  caught,  then,  leaving  most  of  their  goods  behind 
and  taking  not  the  slightest  notice  of  us  wandering 
about  in  their  midst,  the  whole  population,  including  the 
maimed  and  sick,  bundled  into  the  boats,  and  paddled 

283 


A FALSE  ALARM 

hurriedly  away.  The  advance  canoe  had  by  now 
reached  the  village  and  the  news  they  brought  merely 
added  fuel  to  the  fire.  All  we  could  make  out  was 
that  the  Wania  and  Kamura  men  were  advancing — 
no  one  had  time  or  breath  to  tell  us  more.  Once  on 
the  water  the  people  began  to  collect  their  scattered 
wits,  and  a plan  of  action  was  soon  concocted.  The 
old  men,  women  and  children  paddled  away  from  the 
threatened  flank  and  out  to  sea,  whilst  the  able-bodied, 
grasping  spears  and  clubs,  advanced  upstream  to  the 
attack  preceded  by  small  swift  canoes.  Many  youths 
doubled  along  the  beach  and  joined  forces  with  the 
men  of  Kokonau  (a  village  to  the  west)  who  had 
likewise  taken  the  alarm,  so  quickly  does  ill  news 
travel. 

Marshall  and  I were  now  left  in  full  possession  of 
the  village,  with  the  exception  of  howling  dogs  and 
squealing  pigs,  frightened  out  of  their  wits  by  the 
unusual  clamour.  Every  soul  had  vanished  and  we, 
knowing  of  no  better  place  from  whence  to  watch  the 
coming  fight,  remained  on  the  beach,  intently  listening 
for  the  blood-curdling  yell  which  would  be  certain  to 
herald  the  attack.  The  minutes  sped  by  and  nothing 
happened.  Great  was  the  disappointment  therefore 
when,  within  an  hour,  the  warriors  returned,  reporting 
the  alarm  as  false,  and  the  dominating  thought  in  their 
minds  now  being  that  of  hurrying  on  their  wives  to 
prepare  the  morning  meal.  Xo  clue  was  obtained  as  to 
how  the  alarm  had  originated,  nor  did  it  appear  to  cause 
any  further  interest.  Within  two  hours  the  village  had 
been  rebuilt,  fires  were  burning,  children  playing  around, 
women  working,  and  the  whole  incident  forgotten. 
Such  must  have  been  the  alarms  to  which  these  people 
were  subjected  previous  to  our  arrival,  ever  living  in 

284 


A PEACEFUL  TIME 


constant  dread  of  their  neighbours,  each  village  being  a 
law  and  a force  unto  itself. 

With  the  exception  of  this  one  small  excitement, 
the  days  passed  peacefully  enough,  thoroughly  appreci- 
ated by  us  after  the  months  of  strenuous  life  in  the 
stifling  jungle.  Here  we  had  the  soft  warm  breezes 
of  the  ocean,  miles  of  firm  white  sand  to  walk  upon, 
and  almost  rainless  days.  During  the  first  two  or  three 
hours  of  the  morning  the  mountains,  though  sixty  to 
seventy  miles  distant,  showed  up  hard  and  distinct 
against  the  sky,  with  the  result  that  the  survey  work, 
oft  repeated,  was  finally  brought  to  completion. 

Pleasant  indeed  were  those  fine  mornings,  as,  work 
over,  we  reclined  beneath  the  casuarina  trees,  watched 
the  waves  lapping  the  sands  at  our  feet,  and  listened 
to  the  preparations  for  a breakfast  of  fresh-run  fish : 
meals  to  look  back  upon,  for  few  fish  can  equal  a per- 
fectly fresh  grey  mullet.  Caught  by  the  natives,  brought 
straight  to  the  tent,  exchanged  for  a piece  of  cloth 
or  a few  beads,  and  put  right  on  to  the  frying-pan, 
there  was  to  us  nothing  to  equal  it  in  the  world.  Then, 
after  the  meal,  it  was  pleasant  to  stroll  along  the  sands 
and  visit  the  various  small  fishing  villages  dotted  about 
the  coast,  there  to  talk  with  the  people  and  play  with 
the  children.  Everyone  says  the  natives  of  New 
Guinea  are  blood-thirsty  savages ; perhaps  they  are, 
but  they  were  decent  enough  to  us,  and  without 
them  the  days  would  have  hung  still  more  heavily 
on  our  hands.  It  is  easy  to  imagine  that  three  wreeks 
of  this  life  worked  wonders  with  our  debilitated  systems 
and  thoroughly  prepared  us  for  the  final  advance  which 
daily  loomed  nearer. 

Collecting  went  on  apace,  the  assistants  kept  at 
work  from  morn  till  night  skinning  and  preparing  birds, 

285 


MYRIADS  OF  CRABS 


■while  the  native  urchins  ferreted  around  for  all  creep- 
ing creatures  for  the  spirit  bottles.  At  first  the  boys 
earned  their  pay  easily,  as  whatever  was  brought  was 
sure  to  be  new  and  therefore  required.  All  forms  of 
life  were  abundant.  On  two  occasions  the  sands  for 
acres  in  extent  became  yellow  with  armies  of  long- 
legged  crabs,  all  tramping  westwards.  These  for  amuse- 
ment we  drove  into  a solid  mass  when,  with  one  accord, 
to  avoid  our  threatening  gestures,  they  dug  hurriedly, 
and  in  five  seconds  the  thousands  had  vanished  from  sight. 
Another  day  violet-coloured  crabs  swarmed,  then  crabs 
with  one  immense  yellow  claw,  others  with  one  white 
claw,  spotted  crabs,  rough  crabs,  smooth  crabs — an 
everlasting  change.  Little  wonder  that  the  ground- 
sharks  are  so  numerous,  with  such  an  endless  supply 
of  their  favourite  food  swarming  over  the  bed  of 
the  sea. 

As  a result  of  scrupulous  fairness  and  prompt  pay- 
ment for  work  done  and  purchases  made,  the  Atabo 
men  steadily  improved  in  manners  and  willingness  to 
please.  The  drunkards,  realising  that  there  was  much 
to  lose  and  nothing  to  gain  by  presenting  themselves  in 
a fuddled  condition,  kept  clear  of  drink  or  postponed 
their  debauches  ; whilst  the  remainder,  when  no  manual 
work  was  required  of  them,  often  assisted  the  boys  to 
collect  reptiles  and  insects,  a task  eminently  suited  to 
their  lazy  natures. 

Sometimes  we  would  play  with  the  children,  who 
by  this  time  had  lost  all  fear  of  us.  Instead  of  bolting 
for  the  shelter  of  their  huts  on  the  first  view  of  the 
dreaded  white  men,  they  now  strolled  around  close  at 
hand,  assisted  in  removing  the  baggage  from  the  boats,  or 
lent  a hand  where  wanted.  One  chubby  little  girl  in  par- 
ticular never  failed  to  meet  us  the  moment  we  landed 

286 


CHILDREN’S  GAMES 


from  the  canoe,  and  grasping  a hand  solemnly  escorted 
us  to  the  tent.  Her  father  did  his  best  to  spoil  her  by 
telling  her  to  ask  for  things,  but  she  had  not  yet  learned 
the  sordid  ways  of  the  world,  and  having  seen  us 
safely  home,  would  toddle  quickly  back  to  her  hut. 

The  children  have  few  games  by  which  to  work  off 
their  animal  spirits,  and  usually  play  at  being  “ grown- 
ups,” and,  being  almost  amphibious  in  their  habits,  take 
part  in  every  imaginable  form  of  water  sport.  The 
more  indulgent  fathers  will  sometimes  fashion  miniature 
canoes  for  their  offspring,  in  which  exciting  races  and 
imaginary  hunts  take  place.  Failing  a boat,  a log  will 
do  just  as  well,  the  difficulty  of  balancing  such  a crank 
craft  only  adding  to  their  pleasure.  A boy  may  often 
be  seen  coming  down  stream  on  a rolling  tree-trunk, 
walking  round  and  round  the  stem  as  it  turns  over. 
Little  dots  who  can  hardly  stand  will  take  a great 
canoe  out  all  by  themselves,  and  with  poles  they  can 
hardly  lift  steer  her  through  the  current.  What  they 
lack  in  strength  they  make  up  for  in  perseverance  and 
skill. 

On  shore  one  of  the  favourite  amusements  of  the 
girls  is  to  build  miniature  huts,  inside  which  they  creep, 
crowding  and  chattering  together,  supremely  happy. 
For  the  boys  there  are  the  more  manly  sports  of  bow 
and  arrow  shooting,  wrestling,  and  fighting  with  the 
feet.  Puzzles  with  string  are  popular,  many  of  the 
combinations  being  very  similar  to  what  one  often 
sees  in  England.  The  paucity  of  games  practised 
by  the  children  is  probably  due  to  the  scarcity  of 
open  ground,  which  is  never  to  be  found  except  on 
the  seashore,  or,  to  a very  limited  extent,  at  the  bends 
of  the  rivers. 

While  the  lazier  men  and  the  children  were  scour- 

287 


METHODS  OF  FISHING 

ing  the  jungle  for  reptiles  and  insects  with  which  to 
enrich  the  zoological  collection,  those  more  energeti- 
cally inclined  were  fishing  along  the  coast  or  in  the 
creeks,  where  food  may  be  obtained  almost  for  the  ask- 
ing. The  native  methods  of  catching  fish  are  rough, 
but  sufficiently  effective  in  this  place  of  plenty.  To 
the  smaller  creeks  the  women  proceed  daily,  and  fixing 
string  nets  stretched  on  a bamboo  bent  into  a circle 
across  the  mouths  of  the  inlets  when  the  tide  is  in,  re- 
move the  entrapped  fish  when  the  water  falls.  Each 
inlet  has  its  owner,  and  when  not  in  use  is  tabooed  by 
the  usual  method  of  suspending  a string  across  the 
mouth,  from  which  hang  bunches  of  leaves  ; a custom 
common,  I believe,  throughout  New  Guinea.  When 
the  sign  is  up,  none  dare  enter  or  fish  therein. 

Our  larger-sized  fish-hooks  were  in  much  request, 
the  smaller  ones  not  finding  favour,  as  the  savage  could 
never  be  taught  that  large  fish  could  thus  be  held 
when  hooked.  Of  native-made  hooks  there  were  various 
patterns,  fashioned  from  shell  or  bamboo,  many  even 
having  a barb.  In  the  shallow  waters  along  the  coast 
upright  nets  are  also  fixed  to  entrap  the  simple  fish. 
At  other  times,  and  more  particularly  in  the  deeper 
waters,  spears  and  bows  and  arrows  are  in  most  request ; 
but  for  the  finest  form  of  sport  nothing  can  equal  the 
harpoon,  excellent  examples  of  which  are  in  daily  use. 
Some  of  the  heads  are  of  iron,  but  as  metal  is  scarce, 
cane  and  bamboo  are  far  more  often  used.  The  head  is 
fixed  to  a wooden  cup,  into  which  is  placed  the  shaft 
when  required  for  use.  From  the  head  a strong  rope 
passes  loosely  round  the  shaft,  the  end  being  held  in  the 
hand,  so  that  when  the  fish  is  struck  the  head  becomes 
detached  from  the  handle,  and  the  strain  is  at  once  taken 
by  the  rope.  Many  great  fish,  including  sharks,  are  thus 

288 


THE  BRUSH  TURKEY 


captured.  The  sport  must  be  grand,  as  the  frail  canoes 
require  the  most  perfect  management  if  disaster  is  not 
to  result.  Given  a powerful  hard-fighting  fish,  a thin 
line  and  hook,  a rickety  canoe,  and  everything  manu- 
factured by  the  sportsman  himself,  rough  water  and  a 
dinner  waiting,  and  what  Britisher  would  not  change 
places  with  the  sea-coast  Papuan,  while  the  sport  lasts  ? 

Now  and  again  a few  black  and  white  pigeons  were 
shot  by  the  Gurkhas,  and  until  the  supply  ran  out,  the 
brush  turkey,  brown  or  black  in  colour  and  about  the 
size  of  a chicken,  could  always  be  trusted  to  fill  the 
larder.  A peculiar  characteristic  of  this  turkey  is  that 
the  hen  lays  an  egg  one-third  her  own  size,  so  great  in 
fact  that  unless  seen  it  appears  impossible  for  the  body 
to  hold  it.  Many  were  shot,  and  when  brought  into 
camp  were  found  to  be  on  the  point  of  laying  when 
killed,  a slight  squeeze  being  all  that  was  required  to 
discharge  a meal  sufficient  for  a hungry  man.  Another 
point  worth  noting  is  that  the  eggs  are  laid  in  the  centre 
of  a five  or  six-foot  high  mound  of  wet  leaves,  scraped 
together  by  the  parent  birds,  and  then  left  to  incubate 
by  the  heat  of  fermentation.  When  born  the  young 
work  a way  out  of  the  stifling  nest,  and  as  soon  as  they 
are  free  are  able  to  fly  and  fend  for  themselves. 

The  bushes  round  the  camp  contained  large  numbers 
of  an  immense  spider ; I know  not  its  name,  but  it  is 
well  known  in  other  parts  of  N ew  Guinea.  They  have 
soft,  balloon-like  bodies,  and  spin  a web  of  great  strength. 
It  has  been  commonly  stated  that  these  webs  are  utilised 
by  the  natives  as  fishing-nets,  and  that  large  fish  are  thus 
secured,  but  I am  afraid  this  is  an  unsubstantiated  yarn. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  a fact  that  the  children  do  take  the 
webs  off  entire  by  slipping  a ring  of  cane  below,  and 
that  in  them  they  will  carry  fish  the  size  of  sprats. 

289  T 


SKETCHING  AND  BATHING 

Some  day,  perhaps,  this  wonderful  cord  will  be  turned 
to  a practical  use. 

Thus  peacefully  employed  the  time  passed  slowly 
but  surely  by,  and  though  many  hours  of  the  day  were 
spent  in  sketching,  bathing,  and  walking  on  the  sands, 
the  quiet  life  at  length  began  to  pall,  for  it  was  impos- 
sible to  blind  oneself  to  the  fact  that  all  this  was  a terrible 
waste  of  time,  and  an  irretrievable  loss  of  the  only  six 
fine  weeks  in  the  year. 


290 


CHAPTER  XXI 


Unpromising  coolies — The  problem  of  the  hills — Our  motor  boat— Difficult 
navigation — Interested  motives — A double  murder — Organising  the 
advance — The  advance  to  the  mountains — Papuans  and  the  axes — 
A change  in  the  river — Crossing  the  Wataikwa — A flooded  river — 
Coal — Kock  formation — Unpromising  prospects — An  arduous  climb 
— A grand  outlook 

SUCH  excellent  work  had  been  put  into  the  derelict 
motor  boat  by  the  Hutch  pioneers  that  she  was 
now  able  to  take  the  water,  and  by  dint  of  incessant 
bailing  to  keep  afloat.  To  put  the  rusty  and  disabled 
engines  into  working  order  Marshall  and  I returned 
to  Wakatimi  on  22nd  December. 

On  the  following  day  the  relief  ship  Valk  arrived 
from  Merauke,  having  on  board  Wollaston  and  forty- 
eight  coolies  for  us,  and  more  for  Cramer.  Goodfellow 
had  sufficiently  recovered  to  collect  these  men,  and 
had  departed  direct  for  England ; we  were  pleased  to 
hear  that,  though  still  suffering  from  fever  and  beri- 
beri, he  was  steadily  improving  in  health.  From  him, 
by  order  of  the  committee,  I took  over  command  of 
the  expedition. 

It  was  a depressing  sight  to  see  the  new  coolies 
disembark,  for  instead  of  the  fine  men  we  had 
been  expecting,  they  proved  to  be  worse  than  any 
previously  landed — weedy  and  immature  corner-boys 
and  street  loafers  of  Macassar.  As  much  unused 
to  forest  life  as  they  were  to  hard  work,  these  ill- 
developed  specimens  of  humanity  were  not  the  kind 
to  enable  us  to  set  out  on  our  final  attempt  to  reach 

291 


PROBLEM  OF  THE  HILLS 


the  mountains  along  boulder-strewn  rivers,  over  rocky 
ridges  and  through  swampy  jungle,  with  much  pros- 
pect of  success. 

By  their  behaviour  whilst  at  Merauke  it  might 
have  been  supposed  that  they  at  any  rate  had  a cer- 
tain amount  of  pluck  in  their  compositions,  as  they 
attacked  with  knives  the  Dutch  guard  placed  to  keep 
the  more  riotous  ones  in  order.  When  with  us  they 
were  as  peaceful  as  lambs,  loathing  work  and  going 
into  hospital  whenever  they  could  be  admitted. 

Still  they  had  to  be  utilised,  and  any  further  delay 
would  only  add  to  our  difficulties. 

Despite  the  unpromising  nature  of  the  transport, 
now  was  the  time  to  push  on  if  a real  attempt  was 
ever  to  be  made  to  penetrate  any  distance  into  the 
mountains. 

It  was  nearly  a year  since  we  had  first  set  foot  in 
New  Guinea,  and  our  entire  efforts  up  to  now  had  taken 
us  but  seven  marches  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Mimika, 
and  four  more  by  forest  paths  to  the  east.  With  the 
Mimika  as  the  line  of  communication  and  supply  it 
was  very  evident  that,  even  with  the  finest  transport 
force  in  the  world,  the  feat  of  reaching  the  snows  was 
beyond  the  power  of  any  expedition.  Still  it  was  out 
of  the  question  to  acknowledge  defeat,  and  we  were 
determined  not  to  leave  the  country  until  every  pos- 
sible branch  of  the  work  had  been  accomplished. 
There  remained,  therefore,  the  problem  of  how  to 
arrive  at  the  highest  accessible  hills  in  the  near  vicinity 
of  the  Snow  Mountains,  where  the  ornithological  and 
botanical  collections  might  be  enriched  and  the  survey 
work  completed. 

With  this  object  in  view,  the  food  supplies,  of 
which  we  had  now  at  Wakatimi  sufficient  to  last 

292 


OUR  MOTOR  BOAT 

the  entire  expedition  three  months,  were  transferred 
to  Parimau  as  quickly  as  possible.  In  this  work  the 
motor  boat  was  of  great  assistance.  The  three  months’ 
rest  on  the  mud,  and  the  daily  soaking  by  the  tide 
had  so  affected  the  engines  that  they  could  scarcely 
be  moved  by  hand,  much  less  be  induced  to  run  of 
their  own  accord.  Cleaning  and  overhauling,  how- 
ever, gradually  improved  them,  and  on  the  last  day 
of  the  year  the  launch  deigned  fo  run  for  five  minutes. 
On  the  first  day  of  the  new  year  she  ran  beautifully, 
and  with  the  object  of  testing  her  powers,  Wollaston 
and  I took  her  out  to  sea,  visiting  the  fishing  villages 
and  incidentally  purchasing  two  canoes,  of  which  we 
were  in  much  need.  From  there  we  went  on  to  the 
sources  of  the  Watuka,  a river  we  had  believed  to  be 
an  off-shoot  of  the  Kapare,  but  which,  despite  the 
large  amount  of  water  brought  down,  now  proved  to 
be  only  a jungle-fed  stream.  These  were  two  of  the 
pleasantest  days  I spent  in  New  Guinea,  for  to  suc- 
ceed in  making  a broken-down  and  apparently  useless 
machine  run  sweetly  gives  infinite  pleasure  and  well 
repays  the  days  of  labour  expended  on  it. 

With  the  assistance  of  the  launch,  two  journeys 
sufficed  to  deposit  at  Parimau  sufficient  food  supplies 
to  last  the  entire  force  between  seven  and  eight  weeks. 
What  perfect  music  it  was  to  listen  to  the  regular 
explosions  in  the  cylinder,  music  which  meant  the 
saving  of  days  of  heart-breaking  labour  and  incessant 
struggle  against  the  current,  taking  all  spirit  out  of 
the  men,  and  responsible  for  as  heavy  a toll  of  victims 
as  any  forest  march.  Pleasant  it  was  to  sit  quietly 
in  the  boat  and  watch  the  river  banks  slowly  gliding 
past  as  march  after  march  was  completed,  and  to  see 
the  heavily-laden  canoes  ploughing  their  way  through 

293 


DIFFICULT  NAVIGATION 

the  water.  Many,  however,  had  still  to  be  worked 
up-stream  in  the  old  way,  for  on  account  of  the  turns 
and  twists  of  the  river  the  motor  boat  could  not  pull 
everything,  and  a grounding  led  to  horrible  confusion 
and  the  snapping  of  ropes  and  supports. 

Even  the  weather  favoured  us,  far  less  rain  falling 
than  during  January  of  the  previous  year ; this,  added 
to  the  fact  that  the  camping  grounds  were  clearer  of 
undergrowth  and  consequently  less  infested  with  mos- 
quitoes, helped  to  keep  the  men  fit. 

One  disadvantage,  however,  was  that  there  was 
little  water  in  the  river,  and  the  boat  had  to  be 
bumped  and  driven  over  the  tangled  mass  of  wood 
which  encumbered  the  bed.  Consequently  we  could 
only  travel  half-way  to  Parimau  in  this  luxurious 
idleness,  the  launch  then  returning  to  the  base  camp 
to  bring  up  fresh  relays.  All  further  advance  had  to 
be  made  by  canoe,  for  the  river  dwindled  to  a mere 
trickle  joining  the  dark  and  silent  pools,  and  the  boats 
had  to  be  hauled  from  one  to  the  other  by  the  united 
efforts  of  the  entire  force.  Alligators,  seldom  of  great 
size  and  not  very  numerous,  basked  on  the  sandy  spits, 
but  never  made  themselves  objectionable,  and  on  our 
approach  would  seek  refuge  in  the  deepest  and  darkest 
recesses  of  the  undermined  banks.  As  mile  after 
mile  was  covered  the  difficulty  of  moving  the  heavily- 
laden  canoes  increased,  and  it  seemed  to  us  that  every 
tree  which  had  fallen  during  the  past  century  had 
been  placed  in  the  very  best  position  to  block  our 
way.  Lifting  the  heavy  canoes  bodily  over  the 
trunks,  forcing  them  between  others,  turning,  twist- 
ing, and  rocking,  the  slow  progress  was  continued 
till  on  the  fourth  day  we  reached  Parimau,  assisted 
for  the  last  few  miles  by  natives,  who,  with  the  pros- 

294 


INTERESTED  MOTIVES 


pect  of  receiving  an  axe  in  payment  for  carrying  our 
goods  forward,  had  assembled  in  considerable  numbers. 
Though  one  would  like  to  believe  that  these  people 
had  some  real  affection  for  us,  unsullied  by  ulterior 
motives  of  obtaining  axes,  knives  and  cloth,  I fear 
that  their  demonstrations  of  pleasure  on  seeing  us  again 
were  assumed  only  on  account  of  benefits  to  come. 

Marshall  had  preceded  Wollaston  and  myself,  and 
with  the  object  of  collecting  carriers  had  already  set  off 
on  a three  days’  trip  to  the  village  of  Ibo,  on  the  Tuaba 
River.  His  object  was  crowned  with  success,  and  he 
came  in  shortly  after  our  arrival  with  a string  of  fifteen 
vociferous  men,  all,  as  usual,  loudly  proclaiming  their 
willingness  to  carry  our  goods  to  the  very  summit  of 
the  topmost  pinnacle.  This  talk  we  well  understood 
and  appreciated  at  its  proper  value ; the  only  question 
in  our  minds  was  whether  a single  man  would  turn  up 
when  the  day  of  departure  should  actually  arrive. 

On  the  4th  January  a double  murder  was  com- 
mitted in  camp,  the  mandoer,  or  chief  convict,  being 
attacked  by  one  of  his  own  men.  There  was  no  evi- 
dence as  to  how  the  quarrel  started,  the  two  men  being 
first  noticed  when  feinting  with  their  knives.  They 
closed  before  anyone  could  interfere,  and  without  any 
attempt  at  parrying,  each  drove  his  knife  up  to  the 
hilt  in  his  opponent’s  chest.  They  sank  to  the  ground, 
and  were  carried,  of  all  places  in  the  world,  into  our 
dining-room,  but  it  was  at  once  evident  that  nothing 
could  be  done  to  save  their  lives.  They  expired  within 
a few  minutes  and  were  buried  on  the  evening  of  the 
same  day.  Their  comrades  displayed  but  little  interest ; 
the  use  of  the  knife  in  the  East  is  of  too  frequent 
occurrence  to  cause  a lasting  or  even  a temporary 
impression  on  the  minds  of  these  half-civilised  men. 

29  5 


A DOUBLE  MURDER 

The  sergeant,  who  by  the  way  was  a foreigner,  took 
charge  of  the  burial  ceremonials,  and  was  evidently 
quite  determined  that  for  his  part  nothing  should  be 
lacking  which  the  importance  of  the  occasion  demanded. 
Drawing  his  sword,  and  placing  himself  between  the 
graves,  he  harangued  the  spectators.  “ Men,”  he  said, 
“ this  day  two  servants  of  the  Government  have  lost 
their  lives  at  the  hands  of  each  other.  Were  they  not 
both  good  men  ? hein.”  “ One  man  very  bad  man,” 
chipped  in  an  officious  convict,  but  a glance  from  the 
offended  sergeant  made  him  wish  that  he  had  never 
spoken.  “ Whether  they  will  both  go  to  heaven  I 
cannot  say,”  exclaimed  he,  “ but  I think  Allah,”  point- 
ing upwards  with  his  sword,  “ will  first  purge  them  with 
fire.  Take  this  as  a lesson.”  Then,  drawing  himself 
up  to  his  full  height  as  befitted  the  occasion,  he  re- 
turned his  sword  with  a clank  to  the  scabbard,  and  as 
far  as  the  public  was  concerned  the  ceremony  was  at  an 
end.  The  sergeant,  however,  had  not  yet  finished ; 
returning  to  his  hut  he  refreshed  himself  with  a few 
glasses  of  gin,  and  played  on  the  mouth-organ  the 
national  anthems  of  the  three  flags  under  which  he  had 
served.  This  terminated  the  funeral  obsequies,  and 
with  the  exception  of  the  official  report  and  the  entry 
in  the  accounts,  “To  one  bottle  gin  for  disinfecting 
corpse,”  nothing  remained  to  mark  the  sanguinary 
affair.  Like  many  stories,  this  account  probably  owes 
much  to  embellishment.  This  incident  was  followed 
up  by  one  of  our  own  men  stabbing  another  in  the 
abdomen,  but  without  fatal  results.  Temporary  in- 
sanity was  the  excuse,  but  when  the  case  was  investi- 
gated the  evidence  was  not  such  as  to  bear  this  out. 

In  addition  to  the  Ibo  natives  who  had  come  over 
with  Marshall,  others  had  accompanied  us  up  the  river, 

296 


ORGANISING  THE  ADVANCE 

and  to  these  were  added  during  the  next  few  days  the 
stragglers  who  had  been  fishing  on  the  Kapare  River. 

On  the  1 1th  January  Cramer  arrived  with  thirty-five 
men,  the  combined  forces  occupying  every  available 
foot  of  ground. 

One  or  two  questions  troubled  us  considerably.  In 
the  first  place  it  was  doubtful  how  many  natives  could 
be  relied  upon  actually  to  give  assistance  ; and  secondly, 
as  every  white  man  would  be  required  in  advance  and 
would  be  fully  occupied  with  his  own  particular  work, 
it  was  difficult,  to  arrange  for  the  supervision  of  the  trans- 
port in  rear.  This  had  to  be  worked  in  the  most  eco- 
nomical manner  possible,  and  based  on  certain  guiding 
principles : first,  to  hurry  on  the  white  men  and  their 
goods  as  fast  and  as  far  as  possible  ; and  second,  to 
accumulate,  without  unnecessary  delay,  a sufficient 
food  supply  at  the  front.  A coolie  load  weighed 
twenty-five  lbs.,  and  it  was  calculated  that  ten  days’ 
supplies  for  a force  of  thirty  men  collected  at  some 
imaginary  camp  two  days’  march  up  the  Iwaka  River 
would  be  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  accomplish  our  task. 
Unfortunately  a considerable  proportion  of  the  force 
consisted  of  men  who  could  not  assist  in  the  carrying 
of  food-stuffs — four  Europeans,  three  Gurkhas,  and  two 
Dyak  collectors,  each  of  whom  was  burdened  with  a 
rifle  or  gun  and  a weapon  wherewith  to  cut  a way 
through  the  jungle. 

On  the  first  day  of  the  advance  forty  coolies  only 
were  available,  eight  having  already  completely  broken 
down.  To  these  must  be  added  some  Javanese  con- 
victs and  such  Papuans  as  could  be  persuaded  to  lift 
a load. 

A definite  plan  was  arranged,  though  it  was  obvious 
that  everything  was  liable  to  alteration,  as  nothing  was 

297 


ADVANCE  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS 

known  of  our  course  beyond  the  first  camp  on  the 
Iwaka,  and  it  remained  to  be  seen  whether  a ford  could 
be  found  farther  on  in  the  mountains,  and  what  unfore- 
seen obstacles  lay  ahead.  The  general  lie  of  the  river 
was  unknown,  but  from  native  reports  and  from  what 
could  be  seen  of  the  mountains,  we  gathered  that  the 
river  came  from  the  east,  beyond  the  ring  of  moun- 
tains we  were  anxious  to  ascend.  If  this  should  prove  to 
be  correct,  there  was  no  reason  why,  with  ordinary  luck, 
we  should  not  be  able  to  ascend  Mount  Godman,  and 
at  that  considerable  altitude  collect  specimens,  and 
complete  the  survey  of  the  country  lying  between  that 
region  and  the  snows. 

For  the  accomplishment  of  this  task  it  was  necessary 
that  a ford  should  be  found,  or  a crossing  made  to  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Iwaka  within  two  days’  march  of 
the  camp.  Then  after  forming  an  advanced  post  and 
accumulating  ten  days’  supplies,  we  might  reasonably 
hope  to  climb  the  mountain  and  complete  the  work  we 
wished  to  carry  out. 

W e moved  forward  in  two  parties.  With  the  first 
went  Marshall,  Grant,  two  collectors,  two  Gurkhas, 
forty  coolies  and  the  same  number  of  natives.  In 
addition  Cramer  sent  forward  thirty  of  his  men  and 
three  soldiers  under  the  European  sergeant.  They 
formed  by  far  the  largest  body  of  men  we  had  been 
able  to  get  together  since  our  arrival — a most  cheering 
sight.  The  advance,  however,  had  to  be  postponed  for 
one  day  owing  to  the  forest  being  rendered  impassable 
by  the  rains  which  had  started  afresh.  This  was  not 
altogether  unexpected,  for  we  had  learnt  by  our  experi- 
ence in  the  previous  year  that  the  only  time  at  all 
suitable  for  travel  is  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the 
end  of  December — or  with  luck  to  the  middle  of 

298 


ADVANCE  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS 

January.  It  is  possible  that  this  is  overestimating  the 
length  of  the  unfavourable  period,  for  I am  inclined  to 
believe  that  1910  was  an  exceptionally  wet  year,  in 
which  much  of  the  old  forest  land  was  washed  away 
and  entire  villages  swept  out  of  existence. 

The  continual  tramping  forwards  and  backwards 
during  the  previous  twelve  months  had  transformed 
the  formerly  indistinct  but  fairly  sound  path  leading 
to  the  Tuaba  into  a series  of  break-neck  traps,  in  which 
a tangled  mass  of  roots  was  hidden  beneath  a bog  of 
black  and  sticky  slime — a road  not  at  all  to  the  liking 
of  our  new  and  soft-footed  coolies  from  Macassar. 

In  order  that  Grant  and  his  Dyaks  might  be 
enabled  to  reach  the  highest  ground  attainable  with  as 
little  delay  as  possible,  Marshall,  on  arriving  at  the 
Wataikwa  River,  sent  back  the  remainder  of  the  coolies 
to  Parimau,  and  taking  with  him  a party  of  fifteen 
men,  pushed  across  to  the  Iwaka,  and  advanced  another 
two  marches  up  the  right  bank.  Since  no  tributaries 
were  met  with,  by  crossing  which  we  might  the  more 
easily  reach  the  longed-for  ring  of  mountains,  the  forest 
was  cleared  at  this  point,  and  a permanent  camp  con- 
structed. Marshall  then  dismissed  his  Papuans,  who 
returned  to  Parimau  at  full  speed,  received  their  axes 
and  vanished  for  good.  Cramer, . Wollaston,  and  I 
started  shortly  afterwards,  accompanied  by  a much 
smaller  number  of  coolies,  thirty-five  convicts,  and 
eight  savages  eager  to  earn  the  coveted  axe-heads. 
The  natives  were  laden  to  the  utmost,  as  we  knew  that 
they  would  only  make  one  journey,  and  felt  justified  in 
getting  as  much  out  of  them  as  possible.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  coolies  were  but  lightly  burdened,  for 
by  giving  them  small  loads  they  would  last  all  the 
longer. 


299 


PAPUANS  AND  THE  AXES 

Parimau  camp  was  left  as  silent  as  the  grave ; there 
remained  only  the  sick  and  a solitary  Gurkha,  who 
had  to  take  upon  himself  the  combined  duties  of  sentry 
and  nurse. 

Just  before  our  departure  half  a dozen  of  Marshall's 
Papuans  arrived,  and  poured  into  our  ears  a pitiable  tale 
of  misfortune.  Their  careless  wives,  when  paddling  in 
separate  canoes  on  the  previous  day,  had  all  upset  in  one 
place  or  another,  and  every  axe-head  had  been  lost ; and 
as  this  was  an  accident,  they  said  we  would,  no  doubt, 
present  them  with  others  in  their  place.  Much  to 
their  disgust  this  little  plan  did  not  meet  with  the 
success  anticipated,  and  they  then  asked  to  be  taken 
on  again  for  a fresh  journey  on  the  same  conditions 
as  before.  However,  the  loads  were  already  packed 
and  their  services  were  not  required.  They  had  acted 
their  parts  in  this  little  play  with  considerable  skill 
and  appropriate  facial  expression,  but  it  was  a poorly- 
thought-out  scheme,  and  with  a little  more  care  a very 
much  better  story  might  have  been  concocted. 

The  crossing  of  the  Tuaba  proved  an  exciting  busi- 
ness, and  would  probably  not  have  been  effected  at  all 
had  not  the  Papuans  taken  upon  themselves  the  whole 
management  of  the  river  transport. 

The  Wataikwa  was  found  to  be  in  flood,  and  the 
island  upon  which  the  storehouse  had  been  erected 
was  in  a most  precarious  position.  Great  changes  had 
taken  place  since  I last  saw  it,  four  months  previous. 
Thirty  yards  of  solid  land  then  lay  between  us  and  the 
main  stream,  and  on  this  had  flourished  numerous  great 
trees  of  many  years’  growth.  This  land  had  vanished. 
The  river,  a foaming  turbid  torrent,  now  raced  past 
within  a yard  of  the  hut — so  close  indeed  that  on  the 
preceding  night  one  of  the  supporting  poles  had  been 

300 


CROSSING  THE  WATAIKWA 

violently  struck  by  a great  log  as  it  sped  down-stream. 
The  place  was  not  at  all  to  the  liking  of  the  Gurkha 
who  had  been  left  in  charge,  particularly  as  he  was 
unable  to  swim,  though  swimming  would  not  have 
availed  him  much  had  the  flood  swept  over  the  island, 
separated  as  it  was  from  the  mainland  by  a deep 
channel.  In  order  that  anxiety  on  this  score  should 
not  prematurely  age  him,  he  was  given  permission  to 
sleep  for  the  future  on  the  mainland,  where  Cramer’s 
go-down  was  situated.  The  island  itself  had  been 
occupied  for  six  or  seven  months,  and  the  depot  con- 
sisted of  a permanent  tent,  the  cook-house,  and  a store- 
house containing  every  ounce  of  goods  which  it  was 
possible  to  accumulate  at  the  front. 

Curiously  enough  the  most  important  section  of  the 
storehouse,  though  undermined  by  the  river,  remained 
standing  right  up  to  the  night  of  our  final  departure — 
one  of  the  supports  vanishing  into  the  river  as  the 
last  load  was  removed. 

With  the  aid  of  a rattan  rope  which  two  of  the 
more  agile  men  succeeded  in  fixing  from  bank  to  bank, 
by  the  following  morning  everything  was  transferred  to 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  Papuans  worked 
excellently,  not  only  carrying  loads  three  times  as 
heavy  as  those  borne  by  the  coolies,  but  carrying  them 
much  faster.  Wollaston  and  Cramer  remained  here 
in  order  to  despatch  the  transport,  whilst  I went  on, 
though  by  a different  route,  to  the  old  forest  path 
which  had  cost  us  so  much  labour  to  construct  some 
months  before.  That  had  long  ago  been  abandoned 
as  impracticable  for  coolie  transport,  and  a fresh  one 
planned  which  made  a considerable  sweep  to  the  south 
and  lay  entirely  in  the  plains.  The  construction  of  this 
had  been  superintended  by  Wollaston  when  he  relieved 

301 


A FLOODED  RIVER 

us  in  August,  and  it  proved  superior  in  every  respect 
to  the  old  one. 

The  two  days’  journey  up  the  right  bank  of  the 
Iwaka  along  the  path  already  prepared  by  Marshall 
showed  clearly  enough  the  difficulties  he  must  have  en- 
countered when  hacking  his  way  through  the  forest.  As 
far  as  possible  he  had  kept  close  to  the  river,  but  cliffs 
and  ravines  had  so  often  blocked  the  way  that  in  many 
places  the  working  party  had  been  forced  to  make  a 
detour  high  up  the  mountain  side  where  it  was  difficult 
even  for  unladen  men  to  maintain  their  footing. 

Anxiously  we  scanned  the  valley  in  the  hope  that 
a ford  might  be  found  which  had  possibly  been  over- 
looked by  the  advance  party.  The  river  scarcely  altered 
in  width,  and  there  was  never  any  sign  of  change  of 
direction  until  at  last  the  sight  of  a great  valley 
opening  out  to  the  east  made  us  feel  sure  that  the  main 
river  did  flow  from  that  direction,  and  that  it  would 
therefore  be  unnecessary  to  cross  to  the  opposite  bank. 
Full  of  joy  at  this  stroke  of  fortune,  we  once  more 
entered  the  forest,  to  emerge  an  hour  later  on  to 
Marshall’s  camping  ground,  only  to  find  the  hateful 
river  still  racing  past  in  undiminished  volume  and  force. 
As  on  many  former  occasions,  we  had  been  once  more 
deceived.  The  site  occupied  by  the  camp  was  a wild 
jumble  of  rocks,  the  interstices  filled  with  decaying 
vegetation ; it  was,  however,  the  only  possible  place  in 
the  valley,  and  suited  us  perfectly  when  once  platforms 
had  been  built  spanning  the  chasms. 

We  were  in  a cup,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by 
mountains.  Immediately  behind  the  camp  was  an 
imperceptibly  moving  landslide,  reeking  with  moisture, 
over  which  hovered  clouds  of  butterflies  sucking  the 
water  from  the  wet  rocks.  The  movement  of  the  earth 

302 


ROCK  FORMATION 

had  left  exposed  to  view  many  seams  of  coal  varying 
in  thickness  from  four  to  eight  inches,  but  so  soft  and 
poor  in  quality  that  when  placed  in  the  fire  it  would 
scarcely  burn.  Dr.  Lorentz  found  coal  of  a like  quality 
above  the  Nord  River,  and  brought  some  back  with 
him  to  experiment  with  in  his  launch.  The  Hon. 
Stanisforth  Smith,  during  his  late  adventurous  journey 
in  the  British  section  of  the  island,  found  coal  which  he 
declared  was  of  a hard  and  good  quality.  It  seems 
likely  therefore  that  coal  exists  in  almost  all  parts  of 
this  land,  but  whether  it  can  ever  be  worked  and  made 
to  pay  is  another  matter. 

It  was  not  easy  to  discover  the  rock  formation  in 
the  valley  of  the  Iwaka.  In  the  actual  bed  of  the  river 
a channel  had  been  cut  through  many  strata  of  perpen- 
dicular slate,  while  on  either  side  clay,  sandstone,  and 
the  main  stratum  of  limestone  could  be  distinguished. 
Lower  down  the  river  a few  boulders  of  granite  were 
found,  small  in  size  and  far  from  numerous,  while  at 
several  spots  there  were  traces  of  tin,  copper,  and 
much  iron  ore.  From  a commercial  point  of  view,  a 
discovery  of  greater  interest  was  the  dead  patches 
of  forest  found  near  the  coal  system  and  on  the  ridge 
to  the  west  of  the  camp.  Here  there  were  strong 
indications  of  the  presence  of  kerosene  oil,  suffi- 
cient in  quantity  to  have  killed  many  square  yards  of 
vegetation.  What  we  would  like  to  have  discovered 
was  gold,  but  despite  much  washing  at  every  likely 
spot,  not  a grain  of  this  metal  was  brought  to  light. 
Beyond  this  we  were  unable  to  discover  anything  of  the 
rocks  and  minerals  of  the  plains  and  lower  foothills,  for 
unless  a cliff  or  landslide  is  examined  immediately  it  is 
formed  it  becomes  so  quickly  clothed  in  dense  scrub 
as  to  defy  all  attempts  at  investigation. 

303 


UNPROMISING  PROSPECTS 

Though  the  plain  was  shut  in  on  every  side,  one 
could  not  but  admire  the  immediate  surroundings  of  the 
camp.  At  our  feet  tumbled  the  foaming  waters,  on  this 
day  clear  of  mud  ; whilst  immediately  opposite,  growing 
from  the  very  water’s  edge,  and  from  the  crevices  of  the 
jagged  slate  rocks,  flourished  the  most  luxurious  masses 
of  tropical  vegetation,  chief  amongst  which  was  the 
beautiful  tree  fern.  From  the  background  rose  mighty 
mountains  towering  in  every  direction,  their  summits 
wreathed  in  fleecy  clouds,  the  lower  slopes  tinted  by 
the  setting  sun,  altogether  forming  a most  impressive 
scene  of  tropical  glory. 

Our  pleasure  in  the  surroundings,  however,  was  soon 
dispelled  by  the  news  brought  in  by  Marshall,  whose 
discoveries  with  regard  to  the  prospects  of  a further 
advance  to  the  east  had  been  anything  but  promising. 
The  river  had  been  examined  for  miles  up-stream  and 
down  without  a ford  being  located  or  a tributary  found, 
which  by  diminishing  the  volume  of  the  main  stream 
might  enable  a crossing  to  be  made.  Dozens  of  trees 
had  been  felled  in  fruitless  attempts  to  span  the  torrent. 
The  worst  news  of  all  was  that  the  Iwaka  for  the  next 
three  or  four  miles  continued  to  flow  from  the  north, 
and  from  what  could  be  seen  from  the  lie  of  the 
mountains  there  was  no  reason  to  expect  a change 
of  direction. 

A path  had  been  cut  for  over  two  miles  up  the  south 
spur  of  a mountain  lying  to  the  north  of  the  camp,  and 
this,  if  it  led  nowhere  in  particular,  at  least  promised  a 
fair  view  of  the  surrounding  country  and  the  general 
course  of  the  river.  Along  this  path  Marshall  and  I 
set  out  at  daybreak,  the  going  underfoot  being  excellent 
and  the  ascent  gradual  and  regular.  In  this  case  a 
natural  path  had  been  formed  along  the  crest,  and  the 

304 


From  above  Ivvaka  Camp 

Looking  towards  Wataikwa  Mountain.  Precipice  under  cloud  in  the  background. 


The  Wataikwa  River 


This  river,  either  by  wading  or  swimming,  had  to  be  crossed  daily. 


AN  ARDUOUS  CLIMB 

dead  timber  having  fallen  down  the  slopes  on  either 
hand  left  an  unencumbered  line  between.  By  ten  o’clock 
we  had  climbed  to  an  altitude  of  2500  feet  and  entered  a 
zone  of  stunted  moss-covered  trees  streaming  with  mois- 
ture. Though  we  hurried  on  as  quickly  as  possible  and 
wielded  the  kukries  with  the  utmost  energy,  the  summit 
was  not  reached  before  the  neighbouring  country  had 
become  shrouded  in  mist.  We  were  able  to  see,  how- 
ever, that  when  some  trees  had  been  felled  a fine 
view  would  be  obtainable  in  all  directions.  There  was 
nothing  to  be  gained  by  waiting  where  we  were,  for 
in  New  Guinea  when  once  clouds  have  descended  upon 
the  mountains  there  is  no  change,  so  it  remains  for  the 
rest  of  the  day.  We  therefore  returned  to  camp  for 
the  night. 

Next  morning,  accompanied  by  two  Gurkhas  and 
one  coolie,  I set  out  again  as  soon  as  it  was  light, 
each  of  us  laden  to  his  utmost  capacity  with  tent, 
blankets,  food  and  cooking  pots,  for  I was  determined 
not  to  return  without  having  made  a detailed  map  of 
the  whole  of  the  surrounding  country.  None  of  us,  with 
the  exception  of  the  coolie,  were  used  to  carrying  heavy 
loads,  and  having  piled  the  things  upon  each  other’s 
backs  we  set  out,  much  amused  at  our  appearance  and 
as  frisky  as  kittens.  What  animal  we  resembled  on 
reaching  the  top  I do  not  know,  but  I know  that  we 
arrived  at  long  intervals  and  very  silent.  I had  no  idea 
that  loads  could  increase  in  weight  so  rapidly.  The 
summit  was  cleared  of  trees  and  the  tent  erected,  but 
until  sufficient  water  had  been  squeezed  from  the  moss 
no  food  could  be  prepared.  Spring  water  was  not 
obtainable  on  the  summit,  but  with  the  regular  evening 
downpour  of  rain  there  was  no  difficulty  in  keeping  the 
pots  well  filled. 


305 


u 


A GRAND  OUTLOOK 

Morning  broke  to  show  us  that  our  shelter  was 
perched  on  the  highest  pinnacle,  with  mountains  all 
around,  like  a lighthouse  in  a tempestuous  sea.  The 
outlook  was  grand  in  the  extreme,  and  the  atmosphere 
so  clear  that  the  very  rocks  of  the  great  precipice  to  the 
north  could  be  clearly  distinguished,  but  with  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night  still  hanging  in  the  valleys  it  was  as 
yet  impossible  to  make  out  the  true  course  of  the  Iwaka. 
Gaze  as  we  might,  we  could  arrive  at  no  other  conclusion 
than  that  the  valley  straight  ahead  must  be  the  valley  of 
the  Wataikwa,  in  which  case  the  Iwaka  must  flow  from 
the  east  at  a spot  we  had  already  passed.  But  this 
could  not  be,  for  the  east  was  hemmed  in  by  a ring 
of  mountains  through  which  no  river  could  possibly 
have  passed. 

The  wind  changed,  and  with  it  was  borne  the  distant 
sound  of  rushing  waters,  not  ahead  to  the  north  but 
from  the  valley  to  the  north-west.  Further  investiga- 
tion with  glasses  discovered  a dark  and  gloomy  ravine 
cutting  the  southern  slopes  of  Wataikwa  Mountain, 
from  which  issued  the  river  of  that  name.  There  was 
no  mistake  about  it  this  time,  as  its  course  could  be 
traced  close  to  our  old  camping  ground  of  months  before, 
and  past  the  Wataikwa  camp  itself.  So  completely 
hidden  was  the  gorge  which  had  thrown  us  wrong  that 
even  when  looking  into  it  from  this  elevated  position 
its  sheer  walls  were  hardly  to  be  seen,  and  no  clue  of  its 
existence  could  possibly  have  been  obtained  from  the 
plains.  Had  Marshall  and  I during  our  journey  six 
months  ago  been  able  to  continue  up  its  bed  for  a few 
more  hundred  yards,  we  should  have  solved  the  problem 
and  saved  ourselves  much  labour.  Since  the  old  camp- 
ing around  could  be  distinguished  four  miles  to  the 
south-west,  and  as  the  slopes  on  that  side  of  the  mountain 

306 


A GRAND  OUTLOOK 


were  easy,  a path  could  have  been  cut  up  to  where  we 
were  in  one  day’s  march. 

Directly  to  the  east  lay  the  ring  of  mountains — the 
goal  of  this  present  journey.  Scarcely  six  miles  separated 
us  from  the  eastern  brim,  and  yet  how  hopeless  the 
task  now  appeared,  with  the  Iwaka  running  strong  and 
impassable  between. 

To  make  quite  sure  that  the  gorge  to  the  north  did 
contain  the  Iwaka,  and  to  remove  any  remaining  uncer- 
tainty that  the  latter  might  be  a tributary  of  the 
Wataikwa,  we  dropped  on  to  the  col  and  commenced 
the  climb  to  the  mountain  itself.  From  there  the  river 
could  be  seen,  and  at  length  satisfied  that  no  other 
course  lay  open  to  us  but  to  cross  the  Iwaka,  we  retired 
to  the  main  camp  on  the  river,  arriving  at  the  very 
moment  when  Wollaston  appeared  with  fresh  stores. 

The  journey  to  the  mountain-top  had  been  successful 
in  two  ways ; it  had  enabled  me  to  add  a large  amount 
of  accurate  plane-table  work  to  the  map,  and  had  also 
conclusively  proved  that  if  a further  advance  was  to  be 
made  eastwards,  some  means  must  be  found  to  cross  the 
Iwaka  River. 

No  time  was  to  be  lost.  Ten  days’  rations  for  the 
whole  force  were  now  collected,  and  within  this  period 
the  advance  and  return  had  to  be  completed. 


307 


CHAPTER  XXII 


Searching  for  a ford — A dangerous  undertaking — A plucky  Gurkha — 
Building  a bridge— Second  stage  of  our  advance — The  stores  an  im- 
portant factor— Effects  of  temperature — Bad  going — Reduced  rations 
— Miserable  coolies — A race  with  the  clouds — Success — A fine  view — 
The  Nassau  range — Oil  and  minerals — The  Utakwa  River — Mount 
Idenburg — Tapiro  Mountain — Plains  and  rivers — Doctor  Lorentz — 
The  price  of  success — The  return  journey — A feast  and  its  results 


P till  now  every  attempt  to  span  or  ford  the  river 


had  ended  ignominiously,  as  the  trees,  breaking  in 
two  as  they  fell  across  the  chasm  or  failing  to  reach  the 
opposite  bank,  were  at  once  swept  away  by  the  torrent. 

Having  collected  the  Gurkhas  and  coolies  and 
explained  to  them  what  was  required,  a reward  of  a 
hundred  guilders  was  offered  to  the  man  or  party  of 
men  who  would  construct  and  form  a bridge  which 
would  allow  our  force  to  cross  to  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river.  Full  of  eagerness  to  win  this  substantial 
sum  of  money,  the  men  split  up  into  several  parties 
and  went  off  in  the  hopes  of  felling  a sufficiently  high 
tree  with  which  to  span  the  torrent,  the  Gurkhas 
moving  down-  and  the  coolies  up-stream.  The  result 
of  the  coolies  endeavours  was  soon  evident  to  us  from 
the  numerous  great  trees  which  came  swirling  past 
the  camp  all  with  their  backs  broken.  In  the  evening 
they  returned  dejected  to  report  complete  failure.  The 
Gurkhas,  on  the  other  hand,  came  in  about  five  o’clock 
with  the  news  that  one  of  them  had  succeeded  in 
crossing  the  river  with  the  aid  of  a rattan  fastened  to 
his  waist.  He  had  proceeded  up-stream  to  a tree 


308 


A DANGEROUS  UNDERTAKING 

which  had  been  previously  noted  from  the  right  bank 
as  standing  in  a favourable  position,  and  had  felled  it 
with  such  precision  that  it  had  remained  spanning  the 
river  two  feet  above  the  water.  Even  though  the  river 
was  lower  than  usual  owing  to  the  fine  weather,  the 
accomplishment  of  this  feat  required  both  pluck  and 
enterprise,  and  was  a feather  in  the  cap  of  the  Gurkhas. 

Having  hastened  to  the  spot  and  inspected  the 
trunk,  we  fixed  it  more  firmly  with  stones,  and  were 
able  to  suspend  a single  strand  of  rattan  creeper  from 
bank  to  bank  at  a more  suitable  site  some  small  dis- 
tance up  the  river.  Fortune  had  certainly  been  on  our 
side  so  far,  but  lest  we  should  find  the  problem  too 
easy,  an  immense  flood  poured  down  the  river  that 
night  and  swept  the  frail  bridge  out  of  existence.  A 
flimsy  rope  of  rattan  now  formed  our  only  connection 
with  the  opposite  bank,  and  unless  one  man  at  least  could 
be  got  across,  the  construction  of  a permanent  bridge 
would  be  impossible.  Three  feet  beneath  the  rattan 
raced  the  swollen  torrent,  and  if  the  rope  should  break  it 
was  certain  death  to  anyone  trying  to  cross.  Still  the 
bridge,  even  at  the  risk  of  life,  had  to  be  built  somehow, 
otherwise  any  further  advance  would  be  checked  and 
our  past  efforts  wasted.  I offered  heavy  bribes  to  the 
coolies  to  attempt  the  passage,  but  though  they  were 
eager  enough  to  have  the  money,  none  would  venture 
on  to  the  swinging  rope.  The  value  of  the  bribe  was 
increased  several  times  but  without  effect,  not  a man 
would  undertake  the  job ; and  at  heart  I sympathised 
with  their  fears. 

There  was,  however,  an  exceptionally  brave  man 
present,  one  who  was  ready  to  make  the  attempt  with- 
out offer  of  reward.  Jangbir,  a Gurkha  and  an  ex- 
military policeman,  who  had  recently  been  promoted 

309 


A PLUCKY  GURKHA 

Havildar,  was  noticed  unostentatiously  fixing  a girdle 
of  rattan  round  his  waist.  He  and  another  excellent 
compatriot,  Herker  Jit,  had  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  Jangbir,  being  the  lighter  man,  had  the  best 
chance  of  hauling  himself  across  hand-over-hand  and 
might  succeed  provided  the  strand  did  not  break.  In 
the  event  of  the  rope  giving  way,  his  life  might  still  be 
saved  by  a line  of  thin  rattan  fastened  round  the  waist, 
by  which  his  comrades  could  draw  him  back  to  safety. 
The  feat  was  a particularly  nasty  one  to  attempt,  for 
the  rattan  was  weak  and  flimsy,  and  were  it  to  sag  in 
the  torrent  the  tremendous  strain  would  inevitably  tear 
the  man  from  his  hold. 

Willing  hands  grasped  the  rope  whilst  Jangbir 
lowered  himself  into  the  river  and,  hand-over-hand, 
started  on  his  perilous  journey.  The  force  of  the 
current  dragged  his  body  level  with  the  surface,  but 
he  made  rapid  progress  till  half-way  across  when  the 
speed  slackened  owing  to  his  being  now  on  the  upward 
grade.  It  gradually  became  slower  and  slower,  for  the 
strain  was  beginning  to  tell,  and  strive  as  he  might 
he  could  not  pass  the  three-quarter  mark.  Every 
eye  was  fixed  on  Jangbir,  and  encouraging  shouts 
raised  urging  him  to  make  one  supreme  effort,  and 
then — the  waist  rope  caught  the  water  and  the  weight 
stopped  him  completely  ! To  draw  it  taut  was  only  to 
make  the  position  more  critical,  so  it  was  paid  out 
rapidly  in  the  hope  that  the  momentary  relief  might 
enable  him  to  continue  his  efforts.  This  unfortunately 
only  made  matters  worse,  for  the  force  of  the  water 
was  such  that  it  was  all  he  could  do  to  maintain  his  grip. 
It  was  now  only  a matter  of  seconds  when  he  must 
be  torn  away  and  the  second  stage  of  the  proceedings, 
the  attempt  to  save  his  life  by  means  of  the  waist  line, 

310 


The  Gurkha  Jangbir 

Hero  of  the  bridge-building  episode. 


Spanning  the  Torrent 

The  bridge  thrown  by  the  expedition  across  the  Iwaka  River. 


BUILDING  A BRIDGE 

would  have  to  be  carried  out.  Then  happened  the 
most  fortunate  thing  imaginable.  The  waist  line,  of 
which  quite  eighty  feet  were  taking  the  full  force  of 
the  water,  suddenly  snapped.  Relieved  of  the  weight, 
Jangbir,  with  one  last  effort,  completed  the  few  remain- 
ing yards,  and  pulled  himself  exhausted  on  to  the  land. 
I never  felt  so  thankful  in  my  life.  For  it  was  one  of 
the  best  actions  carried  out  in  cold  blood  that  I have 
ever  had  the  good  fortune  to  witness. 

With  one  man  on  the  opposite  bank  the  work  of 
building  the  bridge  proceeded  apace ; more  rattan  was 
passed  across  and  tied  to  the  trees  until  finally  a strand 
of  five  thicknesses  was  in  position,  along  which  an  agile 
man  could  pass  in  comparative  safety. 

All  through  the  second  day  the  work  was  continued, 
and  by  nightfall  the  bridge  was  complete,  when  even 
a one-legged  cripple  might  have  crossed  with  ease.  It 
was  built  after  the  style  of  the  ordinary  Himalayan 
suspension  bridges  ; the  two  upper  parallels,  each  formed 
of  many  strands,  served  as  handrails,  whilst  below  and 
between  them  hung  the  footway,  also  consisting  of 
one  thick  rope.  From  one  handrail  to  the  other,  and 
beneath  the  foot-rope  were  passed  loops,  so  that  the 
weight  of  the  passenger  should  be  equally  distributed, 
and  the  whole  sufficiently  strong  to  allow  the  laden 
coolies  to  cross  in  safety. 

The  building  of  the  bridge  had  taken  three  out  of 
the  ten  days  for  which  food  supplies  had  been  collected  ; 
a serious  loss,  and  one  which  could  not  be  rectified  by 
sending  any  more  coolies  to  the  rear,  as  out  of  the  forty- 
eight  landed  six  weeks  previously  there  only  remained 
nineteen  fit  for  work,  and  every  one  of  these  was 
required  to  carry  forward  rice  and  equipment. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  February,  thirteen  months 

311 


THE  AVAILABLE  STORES 

after  our  landing  on  the  coast,  the  bridge  was  crossed 
and  the  next  stage  of  the  advance  begun.  The  path  to 
the  east,  which  followed  a gently  sloping  valley,  inter- 
sected with  numerous  ravines,  had  already  been  pre- 
pared for  a distance  of  a couple  of  miles,  and  along  this 
good  progress  was  made.  The  three  Gurkhas  who  had 
been  told  off  to  clear  the  way  worked  hard  and  fast, 
until  at  midday  they  struck  a new  valley  and  a fresh 
river,  the  latter  as  clear  as  crystal  and  fordable.  It 
flowed,  as  we  had  hoped  and  expected,  from  the  ring  of 
mountains  we  wished  to  reach.  Pushing  on  for  another 
mile  up-stream  we  camped  for  the  night  on  a fairly  open 
spit  of  sand,  which  was  quickly  prepared  for  the  tents, 
though  a swarm  of  infuriated  bees  for  some  time  dis- 
puted its  possession  with  us.  We  were  actually  in  the 
gorge  of  the  amphitheatre  of  mountains,  and  the  road 
to  be  followed  was  clearly  defined  by  the  valley  ahead. 
On  the  next  day  only  four  miles  were  covered,  the  going 
getting  worse  and  worse  as  we  went  on.  Ravines  from 
the  neighbouring  mountains  not  only  impeded  our 
passage,  but  forced  us  now  and  again  to  make  a detour 
far  up  the  hillside,  away  from  the  river. 

We  had  quite  counted  on  turning  the  corner  of  the 
mountain  at  the  end  of  this  day’s  march,  but  an  un- 
expected spur  not  only  prevented  this,  but  in  addition 
formed  an  obstacle  to  circumvent  which  would  entail  a 
march  of  many  extra  miles.  The  stores  available  were 
now  only  sufficient  for  five  more  days,  and  it  was  fully 
realised  that  if  we  continued  the  march  in  the  present 
direction  it  was  more  than  probable  that  we  should  be 
unable  to  reach  the  summit  at  all.  The  end  of  the 
mountain  ring  lay  to  the  east,  and  we  therefore  decided 
to  force  a passage  up  this  spur  and  then  to  work  our 
way  along  the  top ; though  we  quite  appreciated  the 

312 


EFFECTS  OF  TEMPERATURE 

fact  that  the  view  would  probably  not  be  so  extensive 
as  that  to  be  obtained  from  Mount  Godman,  we  felt 
that  it  was  better  to  make  certain  of  what  was  within 
our  reach  than  to  run  the  risk  of  not  obtaining  any 
results  at  all. 

Accordingly  the  next  morning  we  began  to  ascend 
the  spur  of  this  ugly  rounded  mass.  At  first  much 
cutting  had  to  be  done  and  the  progress  was  slow,  but 
once  on  the  narrow  ridge  the  going  was  better,  and  we 
eventually  reached  a camping-ground  over  two  thousand 
feet  above  the  river,  and  three  thousand  two  hundred 
above  the  sea.  Further  progress  that  day  was  not  pos- 
sible, for  the  limit  within  which  water  was  obtainable 
had  already  been  passed,  and  there  was  no  immediate 
prospect  of  rain.  W ater  sufficient  for  the  cooking  of  the 
rice  and  assuaging  our  thirst  was  obtained  that  night 
from  a waterhole  in  the  neighbouring  ravine. 

As  might  be  expected  in  this  land  of  adversity  and 
disappointment,  now  that  we  would  have  welcomed  it, 
no  rain  fell,  and  as  there  was  no  chance  of  any  springs 
being  found  higher  up,  we  might  anticipate  further 
trouble  unless  a storm  should  break  on  the  following  day. 

The  ground  chosen  for  the  bivouac  was  particularly 
bad,  but  it  was  the  only  spot  at  all  possible.  Before 
long  the  camp  took  shape,  trees  were  felled  and  laid 
across  the  hollows  and  fixed  from  rock  to  rock,  or 
balanced  on  other  trees.  Amidst  the  bustle  of  pitch- 
ing the  tents  there  was  time  to  notice  and  appreciate 
the  difference  in  temperature  compared  with  that  to 
which  we  had  so  long  been  accustomed.  Here,  though 
damp,  it  was  both  cool  and  fresh,  and  though  we  en- 
joyed the  change,  it  was  not  at  all  to  the  liking  of  the 
coolies.  Two  men  fell  out  from  sickness,  Pulman, 
a Gurkha,  who  had  damaged  his  leg  badly  when  ford- 

313 


BAD  GOING 

mg  the  river  aifd  was  now  incapable  of  walking,  and  a 
coolie  stricken  with  fever. 

At  daybreak  the  ascent  was  continued,  and  as  the 
forest  of  the  previous  day  gave  place  to  a labyrinth  of 
tangled  vegetation,  four  cutters  were  now  required. 
The  great  trees,  checked  in  their  upward  growth,  sought 
to  spread  their  limbs  nearer  to  the  ground,  twining  and 
twisting  round  one  another,  and  forming  such  a con- 
fused mass  of  vegetation  as  to  check  all  advance  till, 
by  slashing  and  cutting,  a passage  was  made. 

Everything  was  reeking  with  moisture.  Glistening 
drops  of  water  fell  incessantly  from  the  festoons  of  moss 
which,  hanging  from  the  trees,  had  the  appearance  of 
the  softest  of  mantles.  Exquisitely  beautiful  were  the 
caves  thus  formed,  over,  through,  and  under  which  we 
forced  our  way.  They  seemed  like  veritable  enchanted 
halls  until  the  incautious  shaking  of  a bough  brought 
down  such  a shower  of  earth  and  water  as  to  dispel  the 
illusion. 

Up  and  up  we  moved  along  a narrow  ridge  toward 
our  goal,  every  now  and  then  catching  glorious  peeps 
of  the  plains  below,  which  at  this  early  hour  sparkled 
with  light  where  the  sun’s  rays  were  reflected  from  the 
winding  rivers.  On  arriving  at  the  summit  another 
disappointment  awaited  us ; so  rounded  was  it  that 
even  from  the  top  of  the  highest  trees  no  view  could 
be  obtained.  We  had  now  reached  an  altitude  of 
5400  feet,  and  here  the  camp  was  pitched.  During  the 
last  1000  feet  of  the  ascent  no  solid  ground  had  been 
seen,  and  we  had  to  walk  on  a thick  layer  of  live  or 
dead  timber  which  covered  the  soil.  On  this  insecure 
footing  the  heavier  members  of  the  party  had  fared 
badly,  for  what  would  carry  a nine-stone  man  was 
often  unable  to  bear  the  weight  of  an  extra  three 

314 


Women  using  the  Stone  Axe  to  split  firewood 


The  Camp  at  5400  feet 

The  tents  pitched  on  a six-foot  layer  of  decaying  timber. 


REDUCED  RATIONS 

stone.  Here,  at  the  camp,  many  feet  of  timber  and 
rank  vegetation  lay  between  us  and  the  ground. 

The  cutting  party  sent  forward  to  prepare  a road  for 
the  morrow  reported,  on  their  return  at  dusk,  that  the 
going  on  the  summit  and  along  the  crest  of  the  hills 
became  worse  and  worse  the  farther  they  progressed. 

No  rain  fell  during  the  night,  and  the  single  tin  of 
water  which  had  been  carried  throughout  the  day’s 
march  had  to  be  supplemented  by  moisture  wrung 
from  the  moss.  Allowing  sufficient  food  for  the  return 
journey,  but  one  day’s  rations  now  remained,  and  even 
this  was  less  than  the  usual  quantity  served  out. 

The  next  morning,  leaving  the  camp  standing,  so  as 
to  shelter  the  miserable  coolies,  we  set  out  at  daybreak, 
and  taking  with  us  the  four  best  cutters,  moved  along 
the  path  previously  prepared.  Progress  was  terribly 
slow,  and  when  the  summit  was  reached  we  found  that 
it  would  be  necessary  to  advance  still  farther,  as  no  view 
was  to  be  obtained  in  any  direction.  The  ridge  now 
began  to  narrow,  falling  away  steeply  on  either  hand. 
Hour  after  hour  was  spent  hacking  and  hewing  a way, 
the  occasional  glimpses  of  the  country  below  encourag- 
ing us  in  our  labours.  Then,  at  a height  of  5600  feet, 
we  suddenly  attained  our  object  and  arrived  at  the  very 
kind  of  spot  we  had  so  long  been  striving  to  find. 

W e found  ourselves  on  the  narrowest  of  ridges,  with 
the  ground,  bare  of  trees,  dropping  sheer  on  either  side. 
The  low  shrubs  were  at  once  removed,  and  there  we 
sat  hoping  against  hope  that  the  mist  might  clear. 
Instead  of  this  it  gave  way  to  a dense  fog,  which  we 
knew  full  well  would  last  till  nightfall.  With  our 
spirits  at  a low  ebb  we  returned  to  camp,  and  ordered 
that  the  one  small  ration  that  remained  should  be 
divided  into  two,  for  to  retire  when  success  was  well 

315 


MISERABLE  COOLIES 

within  our  grasp  was  quite  out  of  the  question.  With 
only  dirty  water  in  which  to  cook  the  rice,  and  knowing 
that  they  would  have  to  spend  one  day  more,  frozen  to 
the  marrow,  in  their  present  camp,  the  coolies  on  hear- 
ing this  were  reduced  to  a pitiable  state  of  distress. 
Indeed,  a more  miserable-looking  collection  of  men  it 
would  be  hard  to  imagine.  Huddled  together  for 
warmth,  too  wretched  even  to  light  a fire  or  to  raise  a 
leafy  protection  against  the  wind,  they  had  remained 
almost  inanimate  since  daybreak — such  were  the  men 
who  had  been  enlisted  to  undertake  the  journey  to  the 
snows  ! Had  the  most  perfect  road  lain  before  us,  and 
had  the  gradient  been  ever  so  little  upward,  it  is  doubt- 
ful if  we  could  have  got  more  than  one  other  march 
out  of  them. 

The  night  was  cold  and  damp,  so  much  so  that  the 
men  detailed  for  the  advance  were  astir  long  before  the 
first  faint  light  of  the  coming  sun  showed  in  the  east. 
A hasty  cup  of  tea  and  we  were  off  along  the  old  track. 
In  the  dark  this  was  found  to  be  a continuous  series  of 
pitfalls  owing  to  the  most  rotten  pieces  of  timber  having 
collapsed  under  the  strain  of  yesterday’s  traffic.  We 
scrambled  and  climbed  on  those  that  would  not  break, 
or  wormed  our  way  beneath,  increasing  the  pace  as  we 
drew  nearer  and  nearer  our  goal.  The  march  soon 
developed  into  a race,  the  fear  of  the  clouds  which  we 
knew  would  form  as  soon  as  the  sun  was  an  hour  in  the 
skies,  spurring  us  on  to  fresh  efforts,  for  we  were  deter- 
mined that  nothing  should  defeat  us  now  that  our 
object  was  so  nearly  attained.  Wet  to  the  skin  from 
the  exercise  and  the  drippings  off  the  trees,  we  broke 
out  at  last  upon  the  open  ridge  to  find  not  a cloud  in 
the  sky,  and  the  most  glorious  view  that  I have  ever 
seen  unfolded  before  our  eyes. 

316 


A FINE  VIEW 


Not  a moment  was  to  be  lost — we  had  no  time  at 
present  to  examine  the  beauties  of  the  landscape ; the 
first  thing  to  do  was  to  set  up  the  plane-table  and 
fix  the  position  of  as  many  as  possible  of  the  long- 
desired  points.  Steadily  the  detail  of  the  map  was  filled 
in,  till  at  length  all  was  finished,  and  not  a moment 
too  soon,  since  the  clouds  had  already  hidden  the  higher 
peaks  from  view  and  were  rolling  down  the  distant 
mountain  sides. 

For  another  hour  we  sat  and  gazed  and  gazed,  first 
one  way  then  another.  In  all  directions  the  land  lay 
spread  before  us ; to  every  point  of  the  compass  could 
we  turn,  recalling  to  our  minds  our  past  failures  and 
speculating  as  to  the  possibilities  for  exploration  in  the 
future.  How  different  the  land  looked  when  seen  from 
above  ! Where  we  had  imagined  lay  the  course  of  one 
river  we  found  another ; a hill  here,  a ravine  there,  were 
now  exposed  to  view,  though  all  had  been  hidden  from 
the  level  of  the  plain  ; and  we  realised  how  impossible 
it  is  to  discover  the  trend  of  rivers  in  a mountainous 
country  when  merely  viewing  them  from  low  ground. 

To  the  south,  for  in  that  direction  our  eyes  first 
wandered,  in  the  dim  and  hazy  distance  stretched  the 
faint  coast  line,  straight  and  unbroken  except  for  three 
large  bays  formed  by  the  mouths  of  the  Kamura,  and 
what  we  took  to  be  the  Aiika  and  N ewerip  rivers— bays 
capacious  enough  to  hold  the  entire  fleets  of  Great 
Britain,  but  rendered  useless  to  the  smallest  craft  by 
the  bars  which  either  close  their  mouths,  or  upon  which 
breaks  so  heavy  a surf  that  only  in  the  calmest  weather 
can  canoes  cross  in  safety.  From  the  distant  outline 
of  the  coast  almost  to  our  feet,  and  from  the  Charles 
Louis  mountains  in  the  far  west  for  another  fifty  miles 
to  where  the  rugged  spurs  of  Mount  Carstensz  closed 

3X7 


A FINE  VIEW 


the  view  in  the  east,  the  interminable  jungle  stretched 
unbroken.  It  was  through  this  dark  and  almost  track- 
less forest,  hideous  in  its  monotony,  that  we  had  been 
attempting  to  force  our  way  for  so  many  weeks.  Not 
a single  break  was  there,  not  a clearing,  not  a lake  or 
grassy  plain — not  even  a whisp  of  smoke  in  the  midst 
of  the  immensity — nothing  but  the  black  and  forbidding 
forest  shrouding  the  bogs  and  fetid  vapours  which  lay 
beneath,  and  tenanted  only  by  birds  of  gorgeous  plum- 
age, by  snakes  and  other  creeping  things.  Through 
this  interminable  growth  turned  and  twisted  great 
rivers,  vanishing  into  the  gloom  only  to  appear  again  as 
glittering  streaks  of  light,  beautified  by  the  straggling 
lines  of  mist  which  still  resisted  the  warmth  of  the 
morning  sun.  At  our  feet  the  mountains  fell  abruptly 
away  to  the  plain,  over  five  thousand  feet  below. 

Turning  to  the  north,  in  the  foreground  we  could 
see  the  ring  of  mountains  upon  the  end  of  which  we 
stood,  culminating  in  Mount  Godman,  a long  five  miles 
away,  although  in  the  rarefied  air  appearing  close  at 
hand. 

Beyond  this,  standing  out  hard  and  clear,  rose  the 
great  precipice,  the  southern  face  of  the  central  range 
which  divides  this  land  into  two  distinct  parts,  the 
northern  and  the  southern.  Black  and  forbidding 
towered  the  great  cliff,  seared  and  scarred  with  the 
passing  of  ages,  and  forming  a barrier  which  at  this 
point  would  defy  any  efforts  of  man  to  scale.  Formed 
of  hard  limestone,  the  stratification  of  which  could 
easily  be  seen  with  the  naked  eye  even  at  this  distance, 
it  stretches  from  Mount  Carstensz  in  the  east  for  eighty 
miles  to  the  west,  where  it  gradually  drops  away  to  the 
valley  dividing  it  from  the  Charles  Louis  Range.  The 
highest  point  is  Mount  Leonard  Darwin,  named  after 

318 


THE  NASSAU  RANGE 

the  late  President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
a castellated  peak  near  the  centre,  with  an  altitude  of 
14,000  feet  above  sea-level.  The  face  here  has  a clear 
drop  of  little  short  of  10,000  feet,  or  about  1J  miles — 
far  and  away  the  greatest  precipice  in  the  world.  To 
the  east  and  west  it  is  nearly  as  high,  but  the  full  sheer 
heights  we  were  unable  to  determine  with  exactitude,  as 
we  never  had  the  theodolite  with  us  when  the  summit  and 
foot  were  visible  at  the  same  time,  or  I should  say  when 
the  foot  was  to  be  seen  from  a point  the  height  of  which 
had  been  already  fixed.  Nevertheless  6500  feet  of  sheer 
rock  was  measured  from  the  spit  of  sand  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mimika,  and  the  remaining  distance  had  to  be 
calculated  by  eye,  and  by  the  known  drop  of  the  river. 

As  the  range  is  continuous,  the  limestone  is  probably 
of  the  same  age  as  that  met  with  by  Dr.  Lorentz  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  farther  to  the  east.  Her 
Majesty  the  Queen  of  Holland  has  graciously  per- 
mitted us  to  name  this  particular  section  the  Nassau 
Range.  Mighty  boulders  and  ridges  of  bare  rock  lie 
along  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  some  too  steep  to  allow 
any  vegetation  to  obtain  a foothold ; others  kinder  in 
their  slopes,  being  clothed  to  their  summits. 

Though  in  the  light  of  our  present  knowledge  it 
would  be  rash  to  state  this  as  a certainty,  taking  into 
consideration  the  lie  of  the  strata,  which  dip  to  the 
north  at  an  angle  of  25°,  the  absence  of  any  fair- 
sized streams  running  from  the  north  and  beyond,  and 
the  fact  that  we  could  see  no  mountains  still  farther 
off,  it  appears  very  probable  that  the  precipice  forms  the 
water-parting  between  north  and  south  Dutch  New 
Guinea  in  this  area. 

The  face  of  the  rock  shows  little  signs  of  ancient 
weathering,  and  in  the  plains  stretching  from  the  foot- 

319 


OIL  AND  MINERALS 


hills  to  the  sea  the  soil  is  entirely  alluvial,  with  no 
outcrops  of  rock  even  in  the  river-beds.  These  facts, 
together  with  the  shallowness  of  the  Arafura  Sea,  lead 
one  to  believe  that  a great  “fault’’  runs  from  end  to 
end  of  the  island. 

Of  what  the  mountains  from  the  foot  of  the  precipice 
to  the  plains  consist  it  is  impossible  to  say  with  cer- 
tainty ; from  what  was  revealed  from  one  or  two  land- 
slides it  seems  probable  that  they  are  mainly  composed 
of  limestone.  I have  already  mentioned  the  other  rock 
formations  which  we  came  across,  namely,  the  outcrop 
of  coal  at  a distance  of  nineteen  miles  from  the  pre- 
cipice, and  the  perpendicular  slate  formation  in  the 
Iwaka  bed  near  the  same  place.  In  addition,  a few 
granite  boulders  are  to  be  found  scattered  about  the 
beds  of  the  rivers,  and  there  are  indications  of  the 
presence  of  iron,  tin,  and  copper.  Though  the  finding 
of  oil-bearing  ground  near  the  Iwaka  camp  and  close 
to  the  coal  strata  is  interesting,  owing  to  the  prohibitive 
cost  of  development  and  transport  the  discovery  possesses 
little  commercial  value. 

In  the  middle  distance,  between  the  great  precipice 
and  the  point  where  we  were  standing,  rose  the  splendid 
peaks  of  the  Wataikwa  and  Tuaba  mountains,  with 
their  outlying  spurs  nearly  as  massive  as  themselves. 

Then  to  the  east,  the  conspicuous  and  not  over- 
beautiful Cock’s  Comb  Mountain  met  the  eye,  to  which, 
curiously  enough,  the  Dutch  LTtakwa  expedition  had 
given  an  identical  name.  Beyond  lay  the  valley  of  the 
Utakwa,  a river  which  was  then  being  explored  by 
the  expedition  under  Lieutenant  van  der  Bie  and 
Lieutenant  Postama.  That  great  river  had  originally 
been  chosen  as  our  line  of  communication,  but  was 
abandoned  in  favour  of  the  Mimika.  For  seventeen 

320 


MOUNT  IDENBURG 

miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Utakwa  the  steamer  could 
ascend  with  ease  to  the  first  base  camp,  then  for  two 
days  more  navigation  was  by  means  of  launch,  and  a 
third  day  by  canoe.  From  this  most  advanced  point 
the  exploring  party  had  pushed  on  and  cut  their  way 
for  seven  marches  through  the  forest  to  within  seven- 
teen miles  of  Mount  Carstensz.  They  had  been  nearly 
one  year  in  the  country,  but  such  difficulties  had  been 
encountered,  mainly  connected  with  transport,  that  the 
expedition  had  eventually  been  withdrawn  and  the 
members  transferred  to  take  part  in  the  Island  River 
expedition  farther  to  the  east. 

Cock’s  Comb  was  already  partly  lost  in  cloud,  but 
to  the  north  towered  the  mighty  peaks  of  Carstensz, 
16,000  feet  of  rock  and  snow,  and  the  three  newly- 
discovered  pinnacles  of  Mount  Idenburg,  so  named  by 
us  after  the  Governor-General  of  the  Netherlands  India. 
This  great  mountain  is  a stupendous  mass  of  wild  and 
broken  rock,  steep  and  precipitous  below,  seared  with 
black  and  uninviting  ravines  and  fissures.  Above,  on 
an  easier  slope,  a sheet  of  snow  and  ice  stretches  for 
miles ; here  a smooth  snowfield,  there  a tumbled 
glacier,  partly  in  shadow,  partly  in  glittering  light,  but 
standing  out  all  the  whiter  by  contrast  with  the  dark 
rock  below.  These  snows,  and  also  two  other  peaks  a 
mile  or  so  to  the  north,  had  all  been  visible  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Mimika,  but  from  nowhere  could  a suffi- 
ciently detailed  examination  of  the  great  mass  be  made 
to  enable  one  to  judge  whether  it  is  climbable  by  man. 
This  question  can  only  be  solved  by  actual  trial,  and 
the  attempt  is  being  undertaken  at  this  present  moment 
(December  1912)  by  Wollaston,  who  has  again  entered 
the  country.  This  time  he  has  a well-equipped  and 
perfectly-organised  expedition,  and  with  the  Utakwa  or 

321  x 


TAPIRO  MOUNTAIN 


some  other  equally  favourable  river  as  a line  of  advance, 
it  is  my  confident  and  earnest  hope  that  he  will  achieve 
success  in  the  same  way  as  did  Dr.  Lorentz  in  his  second 
attempt  to  climb  Wilhelmina  Peak.  If  he  succeed — 
and  I believe  that  he  will — it  will  be  by  taking  a line  of 
advance  up  some  narrow  valley  to  the  west  of  Mount 
Carstensz,  and  between  that  and  Mount  Idenburg. 
Whether  he  conquers  or  not  great  difficulties  lie  before 
him,  of  which  cold,  want  of  food,  transport  troubles, 
and  precipitous  cliffs  are  only  a few.  In  spite  of  these 
obstacles,  however,  once  he  has  arrived  at  the  snows  at 
a height  of  14,000  feet,  the  way  to  the  summit  will 
prove  to  be  comparatively  easy  compared  with  that 
which  lies  behind. 

Turning  now  to  the  last  quarter  of  the  compass,  the 
Tapiro  Mountain  with  its  spurs  and  neighbouring  ridges 
lay  to  the  west.  This  range,  along  the  slopes  of  which 
we  had  so  often  moved,  is  the  home  of  the  small 
mountain  men ; never  a sign,  however,  was  there  of 
the  Mimika  River,  which,  as  we  well  knew,  rose  at  its 
southern  foot  and  flowed  from  thence  direct  to  the  sea. 
It  was  too  small  and  too  insignificant  to  show  itself  in 
the  company  of  its  greater  sisters,  and  we  searched  in 
vain  for  a break  in  the  forest  which  might  indicate  its 
presence.  The  Kapare,  several  miles  beyond,  could  be 
easily  distinguished  throughout  its  course  from  the 
mountains  to  the  Arafura  Sea. 

As  gazing  over  this  vast  country  we  examined  from 
above  the  plains  and  rivers  over  which  and  through 
which  we  had  passed,  and  observed  the  new  ones  which 
still  blocked  the  forward  road,  and  the  turns  and  twists 
of  the  forest-clad  ravines  that  still  remained  to  be 
conquered  before  the  highlands  of  perpetual  snow 
could  be  reached,  it  was  borne  upon  us  that  the  task  of 

322 


DOCTOR  LORENTZ 


reaching  Carstensz,  with  the  Mimika  as  a line  of  com- 
munication and  approach,  was  utterly  impossible.  As 
long  as  the  expedition  was  tied  to  this  line  the  quality 
of  the  transport  and  the  food-supplies  mattered  little. 
Had  these  been  better  we  should  have  penetrated 
farther  into  the  interior,  but  should  have  added  little 
more  to  our  knowledge  of  the  country.  These  errors 
of  direction  are,  however,  inevitable  when  pioneer  ex- 
ploration is  being  carried  out  in  whatever  part  of  the 
world  it  may  be.  Now  that  the  correct  river  or  rivers 
for  a line  of  advance  are  known,  there  is  no  reason  why 
a determined  and  perfectly  equipped  party  should  not 
succeed  in  reaching  Carstensz.  When  once  the  river 
has  been  selected  it  must  be  kept  to  and  never  left,  and 
however  slow  the  advance  may  be,  however  rough  the 
road,  there  must  be  no  weakening  in  the  determination 
to  push  onward,  ever  onward.  That  is  the  only  way  to 
obtain  successful  results  in  this  otherwise  impossible 
country. 

Doctor  Lorentz,  a traveller  whose  work  has  earned 
him  well-deserved  credit,  some  few  years  ago  attempted 
the  task  of  reaching  the  snows  from  a point  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  the  east  of  wrhere  we  were  working. 
In  1907,  with  a well-equipped  expedition,  he  had  worked 
up  the  Nord  River  for  many  marches,  in  an  endeavour 
to  reach  Wilhelmina  Peak,  but  was  at  length  forced 
to  retire.  This  was,  however,  not  till  after  he  had 
found  a practicable  spur  leading  straight  to  his  goal. 
Returning  in  1909  with  a freshly-equipped  expedition, 
and  working  on  the  knowledge  of  the  country  he  had 
already  acquired,  he  was  this  time  completely  successful. 

In  this  district,  where  all  rivers  flow  from  the  north 
to  the  south,  it  is  not  practicable  to  attempt,  as  we  had 
done,  to  force  a way  east  and  west,  for  any  river  one 

323 


THE  PRICE  OF  SUCCESS 


comes  across  may  at  any  time  cut  the  line  of  retreat  or 
block  the  line  of  advance.  In  addition  to  this,  thick 
and  almost  impenetrable  jungle,  the  total  absence  of 
local  food-supplies  and  means  of  transport,  and  the 
periodic  flooding  of  the  country  during  the  rainy  seasons, 
combine  to  render  such  cross  journeys  an  altogether 
impossible  feat. 

For  an  hour  we  sat  and  gazed  upon  the  scene, 
absorbed  in  its  grandeur  and  desolation.  It  is  a land 
whose  past  history  is  hidden  in  the  mists  of  time,  and 
one  without  a future,  since  it  can  never  be  occupied  by 
civilised  settlers.  Here,  as  everywhere,  a weight  of 
silence  lay  upon  the  scene;  there  was  not  a sound, 
nothing  beyond  the  chatter  of  two  small  black-caps, 
twittering  with  surprise  at  the  unwonted  presence  of 
man. 

Our  work  was  done.  Our  quest,  though  falling 
short  of  what  we  had  hoped  for,  had  succeeded.  But 
at  what  a cost  of  life,  money,  and  time ! 

And  so  back  to  camp,  to  pack  up  for  the  morrow, 
and  once  more  to  make  the  most  of  one  of  the  meanest 
of  meals  of  which  I had  ever  partaken,  and  to  dream, 
whilst  huddled  in  the  blankets,  of  the  joys  of  home, 
which  were  now  measurably  within  our  reach. 

Down  poured  the  rain,  and  with  it  rose  the  spirits  of 
the  coolies  ; thirst  might  be  quenched,  and  water  col- 
lected in  which  to  cook  their  last  handful  of  rice : and 
above  everything  else,  there  was  joy  in  the  thought 
that  to-morrow  the}7  were  to  start  the  return  journey 
home  from  this  dreaded  jungle,  and  that  before  long  the 
flesh-pots  of  Amboina  would  be  seen  again. 

Cramer  and  his  men  had  unfortunately  been  com- 
pelled to  return  the  day  before,  their  supplies  having 
come  to  an  end.  Picking  up  the  sick  men  we  had  left 

324 


THE  RETURN  JOURNEY 

behind,  he  had  carried  them  to  the  river  camp,  whence 
they  were  taken  on  by  us.  Our  coolies  now  carrying 
light  loads,  the  Iwaka  camp  was  reached  in  one  long 
march,  and  there  we  found  that  Cramer  had  already 
retired,  and  that  Grant,  having  met  with  considerable 
success  in  collecting  new  species  of  birds,  had  likewise 
followed  suit  and  gone  back  at  full  speed. 

We  had  hardly  realised  the  eagerness  felt  by  every- 
one to  cover  the  return  journey  in  the  shortest  possible 
time,  and  had  calculated  upon  an  average  of  marches 
each  day.  As  a matter  of  fact,  we  accomplished  double 
marches,  and  no  halt  was  called  till  the  Wataikwa  Avas 
reached  and  the  Avhole  party  was  once  more  together. 
A large  tent  and  a couple  of  flies,  together  with  a few 
of  the  more  useless  articles,  had  been  left  standing  on 
the  bank  of  the  Iwaka  River,  and  there  they  may  remain 
to  the  present  day,  as  it  is  hardly  likely  that  any  of  the 
Papuans  will  revisit  that  desolate  spot.  The  bridge 
also  must  long  since  have  departed,  as  rattan  ropes  will 
not  stand  a continual  strain  for  more  than  two  months 
at  the  outside. 

We  had  made  up  our  minds  a long  time  before  that 
the  return  to  the  Wataikwa  should  be  celebrated  by  a 
great  feast,  and  though  no  meat  was  to  be  obtained,  we 
had  reserved  for  this  event  a bottle  of  whisky  and  a 
small  plum-pudding  which  had  been  brought  by  Short- 
ridge  on  his  return  from  Australia. 

The  time  had  now  arrived. 

Marshall  and  I,  feeling  that  it  was  a long  time  to  wait 
till  dinner,  thought  that  we  should  like  a taste  of  the 
drink  early  in  the  afternoon ; the  pop  of  the  cork,  how- 
ever, Avas  too  much  for  the  keen  ears  of  Wollaston,  who 
quickly  came  out  of  his  tent  and  appeared  on  the  scene. 
After  some  discussion  it  Avas  decided  that  the  occasion 


A FEAST  AND  ITS  RESULTS 


was  worthy  of  a long  drink,  that  the  jollification  should 
be  thorough,  and  the  bottle  finished  that  evening.  The 
plan  was  carried  out  in  its  entirety,  but  the  results 
were  most  disappointing — the  more  we  drank  the  more 
depressed  we  became  ; and  then,  as  a climax,  when  the 
diminutive  plum-pudding  was  placed  before  us  there 
remained  not  a drop  of  whisky,  the  flaming  spirit  of 
which  might  have  served  to  conceal  its  meagre  pro- 
portions. 

We  retired  to  bed  more  disappointed  than  words 
can  tell. 


326 


CHAPTER  XXIII 


Preparing  to  leave — Bashful  pygmy  women — A hurricane — Motor  boat  on 
lire — The  Atoeka  River — A cordial  welcome — Inspecting  a village — 
Dancing  halls — A return  visit — Keen  traders — The  Kamura — A colli- 
sion— Kamura  village — A wild-looking  crew — Attacked — An  erratic 
motor — A glorious  bay — Gorgeous  coloured  fish — Return  to  Wakatimi 

THERE  still  remained  the  exploration  of  the  coast, 
and  the  transference  of  the  stores  and  equipment 
from  Parimau  to  Wakatimi,  before  we  could  consider 
ourselves  free  to  leave  the  country.  An  application 
had  already  been  forwarded  to  the  Dutch  authorities, 
requesting  that,  in  accordance  with  a promise  given  to 
us  when  in  Batavia  by  the  Governor- General,  a ship 
might  be  despatched  in  order  to  transport  the  entire 
force  from  New  Guinea  to  Amboina.  No  boat  could 
arrive  for  this  purpose  till  after  the  1st  April,  so  that  if 
we  split  forces  there  was  more  than  sufficient  time  to 
complete  everything  which  remained  to  be  done. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  during  our  last  visit  to 
Wambirimi,  the  home  of  the  pygmies,  we  were  led  to 
believe  that  the  women  of  the  tribe  had  been  on  the 
verge  of  showing  themselves,  and  it  was  now  thought 
possible  that  heavier  bribes,  added  to  the  knowledge 
that  we  were  about  to  leave  the  country  for  good, 
would  be  sufficient  inducement  to  tempt  them  to  leave 
their  hiding-places  and  come  into  the  open.  Strong 
in  this  belief,  Marshall  and  Wollaston  at  once  set  out 
for  the  hills  on  their  seven  days’  journey,  well  equipped 
to  take  photographs  and  measurements  of  these  bashful 
ladies  when  once  their  scruples  had  been  overcome. 

327 


BASHFUL  PYGMY  WOMEN 

They  camped  on  the  same  ground  as  before,  and 
were  quite  prepared  to  meet  with  as  varied  experiences 
as  had  been  the  case  with  us  four  months  previously ; 
the  little  men,  however,  now  that  they  knew  we  were 
not  a dangerous  crew,  and  had  not  come  with  the 
intention  of  burning  their  huts  or  devastating  their 
plantations,  hardly  turned  up  in  sufficient  numbers  to 
make  it  worth  while  unpacking  the  cameras.  The 
women  were  absent  as  usual,  so  to  induce  the  men  of 
the  tribe  to  bring  them  back,  a still  more  profuse  and 
enticing  array  of  bribes  was  laid  out  than  on  the  former 
visit.  At  first  one  axe  was  offered,  and  this  failing  to 
work  the  oracle,  two  were  finally  held  out  as  an  induce- 
ment for  them  to  do  what  we  wished ; strange  to  say, 
it  was  all  without  effect,  though  the  price  was  really 
a preposterous  one,  one  axe  alone  being  sufficient  in  the 
plains  to  purchase  a woman  outright.  This  was  pointed 
out  to  them,  and  when  it  was  further  explained  that 
only  the  shortest  of  appearances  was  required,  some  of 
the  youths,  desirous  of  obtaining  the  reward,  were  seen 
to  waver,  and  would  probably  have  succumbed  to  the 
temptation  had  it  not  been  for  the  disagreeable  old 
headman,  whose  influence  was  sufficient  to  veto  any 
such  attempt  on  their  part.  A whole  day  was  wasted 
in  trying  to  persuade  these  stubborn  people,  and  as 
there  was  no  sign  of  yielding,  Wollaston  and  Marshall 
packed  up  their  belongings,  and  disregarding  the  appeals 
for  free  gifts  of  axes,  took  every  piece  of  trade  goods 
back  to  Parimau. 

We  could  never  make  out  why  this  hill  tribe  refused 
to  bring  forward  their  women-folk.  They  had  had 
intercourse  with  us  for  over  a year,  and  knew  that  our 
promises  of  reward  were  always  fulfilled,  and  that  no 
woman  from  the  races  of  the  plains  had  ever  been 

328 


A HURRICANE 

interfered  with.  Yet  show  them  they  would  not,  and 
to  our  great  regret  we  had  to  leave  the  country  without 
obtaining  a photograph  or  even  a fleeting  glimpse  of 
the  feminine  half  of  this  interesting  race  of  pygmies. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  pygmies  possibly 
objected  to  bring  forward  their  women  on  account  of 
the  presence  of  the  big  men  from  the  plains.  Women 
in  the  lowlands  are  scarce,  and  it  is  conceivable  that 
such  covetous  desires  would  have  risen  in  the  breasts 
of  the  Papuans  as  to  have  led  to  a raid  on  the 
mountain  village  as  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the 
country. 

To  obtain  no  sight  of  the  women  was  a great  dis- 
appointment to  all  concerned,  for,  judging  by  the  men, 
it  is  probable  that  the  women  would  have  averaged 
but  little  over  4 feet  in  height ; as  to  their  appearance, 
style  of  dress,  and  what  ornaments  they  wore,  if  any, 
we  were  left  in  complete  ignorance. 

While  this  journey  was  in  progress  I had  moved 
with  the  first  lot  of  baggage  to  Wakatimi,  to  find  on 
arrival  that  during  our  absence  in  the  hills  a hurri- 
cane had  swept  over  the  camp,  levelling  one-third 
of  the  houses  to  the  ground,  including  the  hospital, 
a barrack-room,  two  storehouses,  and  our  dining  and 
sleeping  rooms.  The  Dutch  soldiers  and  convicts 
had,  however,  worked  so  well  under  the  orders  of 
a quartermaster  that  little  evidence  of  the  damage 
could  now  be  seen,  and  new  houses  had  been  built 
of  sufficient  strength  to  resist  any  storm  under  the 
force  of  a cyclone. 

The  work  of  surveying  the  rivers  to  the  east  of  the 
Mimika  was  postponed  for  several  days  owing  to  two 
reasons  ; firstly,  because  the  west  monsoon,  which  was 
then  blowing,  rendered  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 

329 


THE  ATOEKA  RIVER 

river  impassable  to  craft  of  any  kind ; and  secondly, 
because  the  motor  boat  had  been  set  on  fire.  Fortu- 
nately at  the  time  of  the  accident  she  was  moored  to 
the  pier  with  plenty  of  help  close  at  hand,  so  that 
by  throwing  in  dozens  of  bucketsful  of  dry  earth  the 
flames  were  finally  smothered.  It  looked  at  one  time 
as  if  nothing  could  save  her,  as  the  entire  fore  end  was 
wrapped  in  flames,  and  the  petrol  tank  burst,  sending 
clouds  of  smoke  and  flame  high  into  the  air.  Beyond 
this,  however,  little  damage  was  done,  and  the  hull 
was  hardly  scorched,  mainly  owing  to  the  sodden  state 
of  her  timbers.  Her  two  months’  immersion  in  the 
river  was  of  some  value  after  all.  Two  days’  hard 
work  and  she  was  again  ready  for  use. 

The  boat  being  once  more  in  order  and  the  weather 
improving,  I left  on  3rd  March,  taking  in  tow  the  yawl 
in  case  it  might  be  necessary  to  effect  a landing  on  the 
coast. 

From  the  Mimika  mouth  we  turned  sharp  to  the 
east,  and  in  three  hours  had  arrived  off  a promising 
opening  believed  to  be  the  Atoeka  River,  and  one  of 
the  supposed  mouths  of  the  Tuaba  and  Wataikwa. 
The  entrance  was  perfect,  and  even  with  the  eighteen- 
foot  pole  which  we  carried,  as  being  of  more  practical 
use  than  the  lead,  no  bar  could  be  found  at  the  mouth. 
Inside  was  a bay,  narrower  than  that  of  the  Mimika 
estuary  but  considerably  deeper,  the  vegetation  along 
the  banks  being  of  the  same  description.  The  Mimika 
is  broad  and  shallow,  and  even  within  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  tidal  zone  is  blocked  with  timber  at 
low  water.  The  Atoeka,  on  the  other  hand,  is  deeper, 
swifter,  and  entirely  free  from  artificial  obstruction. 
Higher  up  than  three  or  four  miles  from  the  mouth, 
however,  no  boat  drawing  more  than  five  feet  of  water 

830 


A CORDIAL  WELCOME 

can  proceed  when  the  tide  is  low,  unless  there  has 
been  recent  heavy  rainfall  in  the  hills.  From  the 
coldness  of  the  water  and  the  amount  of  gritty  sedi- 
ment carried  down,  it  is  evident  that  the  source  of  the 
river  is  to  be  found  in  the  mountains,  and  not,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  Mimika,  in  the  low-lying  jungle  swamps. 

So  numerous  were  the  bends  and  loops  that  unless 
one  knew  the  lie  of  the  land  it  would  be  impossible 
to  tell  in  what  direction  the  advance  was  being  made. 
So  it  continued,  till  early  in  the  afternoon  we  came 
upon  a boatload  of  unsuspecting  Papuans  paddling 
slowly  up-stream.  For  a moment  panic  prevailed, 
then  one  of  the  occupants  of  the  canoes  recognising 
who  we  were,  sent  up  such  a shout  of  welcome  that 
it  was  heard  in  a village  some  distance  away.  In  a 
few  minutes  we  reached  the  flanking  huts  of  the  great 
straggling  village  of  Atoeka,  from  whence  women  and 
children  were  already  pouring  out,  an  excited  and 
noisy  crowd.  A wild  race  took  place  as  to  who  should 
be  the  first  to  offer  a welcome,  the  older  women  rolling 
in  the  mud  and  slime  as  is  customary,  smearing  them- 
selves from  head  to  foot  with  filth  and  then  dancing 
with  the  usual  extravagant  postures,  keeping  it  up 
without  intermission  while  the  goods  were  being 
landed  from  the  launch. 

Hundreds  of  men  had  by  this  time  appeared  upon 
the  river  bank,  some  of  whom  busied  themselves 
in  clearing  the  ground  of  rubbish,  whilst  the  great 
majority  so  impeded  the  work  of  unloading  the  launch, 
that  at  length  a railing  had  to  be  hastily  erected  and 
the  men  forced  behind  the  barrier.  The  pressure  still 
increasing,  I announced  my  intention  of  inspecting  the 
village.  This  not  only  drew  away  the  majority  of  the 
spectators,  but  put  them  all  in  high  good  humour,  for 

331 


DANCING  HALLS 

the  people  in  this  district  are  never  so  happy  as 
when  showing  you  their  village,  and  in  particular 
their  own  family  abode.  The  village  being  of  great 
extent,  and  as  far  as  one  could  see  every  hut  being 
occupied,  my  escort  of  willing  guides  could  not  have 
numbered  less  than  a couple  of  hundred  men.  Each 
thought  it  his  duty  to  be  in  the  front  rank,  and  as 
the  dogs  and  pigs  of  the  village  collected  there  also, 
the  whole  formed  a parade  the  like  of  which  I have 
never  seen  before. 

The  village  of  Atoeka  is  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  just  below  a great  bend.  The  huts  stretch 
along  the  water’s  edge  in  one  unbroken  line  for  close 
on  1500  yards,  except  where  two  great  dancing  halls 
rise  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above  the  other  buildings. 
Twenty  yards  of  roadway  lie  between  the  huts  and 
the  river,  the  bank  of  which  is  fringed  with  cocoa-nut 
palms.  The  day  being  fine  the  scene  was  pleasing  and 
picturesque,  for  the  village,  in  addition  to  being  the 
largest  and  cleanest  we  had  yet  visited,  had  a pleasant 
background  of  cocoa-nut  and  bread-fruit  trees,  with 
tobacco  plantations  beyond. 

The  effect  of  the  tide  is  felt  right  up  to  the  village 
of  Atoeka,  and  although  at  this  date  the  banks  of  the 
river  looked  dry  enough,  I have  no  doubt  that  during 
the  rains  the  whole  country  is  under  water  for  days  at 
a time. 

I inspected  the  dancing  halls,  the  floors  of  which, 
built  on  piles  ten  feet  above  the  ground,  in  each  case 
covered  an  area  of  about  seventy  by  twenty-five  feet. 
They  were  carpeted  with  broad  strips  of  bark,  and  on 
this,  close  to  the  wall,  were  built  six  or  eight  fireplaces 
of  sand  brought  from  the  seashore.  Round  the  walls 
a kind  of  dado  had  been  fixed,  about  three  feet  from 

332 


A RETURN  VISIT 

the  floor,  consisting  of  a plank  of  wood,  on  which  were 
carved  representations  of  the  human  eye  at  intervals 
of  about  two  feet.  In  the  centre  of  the  hall,  between 
two  posts,  was  fixed  another  short  plank  covered  with 
more  carved  eyes.  From  what  we  could  gather  the 
whole  idea  of  the  dance  is  based  on  these  carvings  ; the 
performers,  who  are  generally  women,  advancing  and 
retiring  with  the  usual  shuffling  gait,  and  when  they 
have  approached  sufficiently  close  poke  at  the  eyes 
with  their  fingers,  accompanying  the  action  with  a 
loud  shout.  Throughout  the  performance  singing  and 
tom-toming  is  carried  on  without  intermission.  We 
never  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  one  of  these 
ceremonial  dances,  as  they  invariably  take  place  at 
night  and  there  is  an  unwritten  law  that  at  night 
Papuans  and  Europeans  shall  each  keep  to  their  own 
camps.  The  meaning  of  these  antics  and  the  reason 
why  the  eye  is  considered  the  principal  organ  of  the 
body  and  is  always  represented  in  carvings,  we  were 
unable  to  determine.  It  is  the  same  with  the  deco- 
rated house  utensils,  paddles,  and  weapons,  the  eye  is 
the  only  human  organ  depicted. 

When  four  hundred  huts  had  been  inspected,  the 
inhabitants  thought  it  would  be  only  showing  proper 
politeness  on  their  part  to  pay  the  same  compliment  to 
our  tents  and  goods.  Fortunately  complete  good 
temper  was  shown,  or  we  should  certainly  have  been 
swept  into  the  river,  and  our  tents  with  us.  The 
pressure  at  length  became  so  great  that  force  had  to  be 
used  to  keep  back  the  crowd,  and  in  this  we  were 
assisted  by  a few  of  the  more  officious  Papuans,  who  no 
doubt  had  an  eye  to  some  future  reward ; despite  their 
efforts,  however,  no  food  could  be  prepared  until  dusk 
fell  and  the  crowd  dispersed  to  their  homes. 

833 


KEEN  TRADERS 

These  people  were  the  keenest  traders  we  had  yet 
encountered,  and  as  I had  purchased  a few  stone  axes 
during  my  walk  round  the  village,  the  camp  on  the 
following  morning  was  besieged  by  a mob  of  at  least  a 
hundred  would-be  sellers,  each  with  his  pile  of  goods 
and  each  noisily  demonstrating  the  merits  of  his  par- 
ticular article  of  commerce.  Before  me  were  laid 
dozens  of  stone  axes  and  clubs,  spears,  bows  and  arrows, 
fish,  cocoa-nuts,  fresh-water  oysters,  and  rolls  of  string. 
Did  my  eyes  wander  for  one  instant  over  any  article,  it 
was  at  once  taken  up  and  its  good  points  enumerated 
and  displayed.  Many  quite  useless  things  were  bought, 
simply  because  the  owners  were  so  pitiably  anxious  to 
possess  a knife,  a strip  of  cloth,  or  a few  beads.  There 
was  no  bargaining,  they  gladly  took  whatever  I offered, 
and  raced  away  to  find  something  else  to  dispose  of. 

When  the  time  came  to  depart  they  did  their  best 
to  persuade  us  to  stop  longer,  and  even  became  quite 
sulky  when  they  saw  that  their  efforts  were  in  vain ; 
they  then  changed  their  tactics  and  implored  us  to  camp 
amongst  them  again  on  our  return  down  the  river. 

Although  there  was  some  little  difficulty  in  starting 
her,  the  motor-boat  must  have  greatly  impressed  these 
people  as  she  passed  swiftly  and  without  visible  effort 
from  end  to  end  of  the  village ; crowds  raced  after  us 
along  the  banks,  tumbling  over  one  another  in  their 
efforts  to  keep  up,  until  we  slipped  round  the  bend  and 
out  of  sight. 

After  proceeding  for  an  hour  between  thickly  wooded 
lands  varied  by  patches  of  tobacco  plantations,  we  un- 
expectedly entered  the  Kamura  proper,  which  here 
bifurcates,  forming  the  Atoeka  and  Kamura  mouths. 
Even  then,  after  a week’s  drought,  it  was  a splendid 
sheet  of  water  ; in  the  wet  season,  and  in  fact  for  most 

334 


THE  KAMURA 

months  of  the  year,  it  is  navigable  for  large  launches 
as  far  up  as  the  village  of  Ibo.  As  we  swept  out  of  the 
Atoeka  into  the  broad  expanse,  Jangbir  the  Gurkha’s 
first  question  was,  why  had  we  not  taken  to  this  river 
in  the  first  place,  then  surely  we  should  have  reached 
the  snows  ? Ah  ! why  not  ? For  two  very  good  reasons, 
my  friend ; — -firstly,  because  the  very  existence  of  this 
river  was  unknown  to  us  ; and  secondly,  because  there 
was  no  launch  available  in  which  we  might  have  ex- 
amined the  coast  to  find  another  waterway  than  the 
Mimika. 

The  bed  of  the  Kamura,  which  is  between  two  and 
three  hundred  yards  wide,  was  exceptionally  free  from 
obstacles.  Straight  ahead  to  the  north  the  whole  range 
of  mountains  was  visible,  the  foothills  veiled  in  a blue 
haze,  and  the  black  frowning  precipice  stretching  from 
east  to  west,  topped  by  the  snow  caps  of  Idenburg  and 
Carstensz  with  their  icy  pinnacles  glittering  in  the  rays 
of  the  sun.  Much  as  we  enjoyed  the  journey  our  minds 
were  never  for  a moment  free  from  vain  regrets  that  we 
had  been  unable  to  prospect  this  river  on  our  first  arrival. 
How  insignificant  appeared  the  dirty  jungle-fed  and 
fever-stricken  Mimika,  when  compared  with  the  wide 
stretching  expanse  of  cold  clear  water  of  the  Kamura. 
On  the  greater  river,  with  its  open  jungle  and  gravelly 
banks  of  sand,  there  can  be  no  question  that  our  work 
would  have  proceeded  unhindered  by  a great  portion  of 
the  sickness  and  fever  with  which  we  had  had  to  contend. 
Regrets  and  speculation  as  to  what  might  have  been 
done  were,  however,  a mere  waste  of  time ; we  had  not 
taken  the  river,  and  there  the  matter  ended. 

I had  intended  to  camp  at  the  point  where  the 
Wataikwa  is  joined  by  the  Kamura,  the  junction  already 
visited  three  months  previously  by  Cramer  when  coming 

335 


A COLLISION 


from  the  north.  My  object  was  to  join  up  the  compass 
survey  of  the  river,  and  so  close  that  portion  of  the  map. 
Our  good  intentions,  however,  were  unexpectedly  frus- 
trated, for  when  within  a couple  of  miles  of  our  destina- 
tion we  crashed  full  upon  a sunken  log.  So  violent  and 
unexpected  was  the  impact  that  everyone  was  thrown 
to  the  deck,  the  engines  came  to  a dead  stop,  and  the 
timbers  of  the  poor  old  boat  groaned  as  if  in  mortal 
agony.  The  Gurkha,  Bahadur,  who  was  look-out  man 
at  the  time,  and  whose  particular  business  it  was  to  see 
that  we  did  not  collide  with  obstacles,  was  pitched 
headlong  into  the  river,  and  before  he  could  be  seized 
was  swept  past  the  boat  and  down  the  river  into  deep 
water.  Being  an  indifferent  swimmer  he  would  certainly 
have  lost  his  life  had  not  his  companion  Jangbir  plunged 
in  and,  after  a struggle  in  which  I thought  both 
would  have  been  drowned,  dragged  him  to  another 
half-sunken  log  from  whence  both  were  finally  rescued 
by  the  yawl. 

In  spite  of  every  effort  nothing  would  induce  the 
engines  to  start  afresh,  though  it  was  impossible  to 
detect  any  obvious  damage.  After  two  hours  of 
strenuous  work  a halt  had  to  be  called  and  the  camp 
pitched  in  the  neighbouring  forest.  It  was  not  until 
after  darkness  had  set  in  that  the  welcome  pop-pop  of 
the  engine  showed  that  she  had  once  more  awakened  to 
life.  As  it  was  more  than  likely  that  the  engine  would 
give  further  trouble,  the  journey  to  the  junction  was 
given  up,  and  next  morning  we  started  on  our  return 
voyage,  this  time  following  the  eastern  or  Ivamura 
branch  of  the  river. 

At  full  speed  we  passed  between  banks  exactly 
similar  to  those  of  the  western  branch,  the  Atoeka, 
whilst  both  rivers  were  alike  in  the  number  of  sharp 

336 


KAMURA  VILLAGE 

turns  and  doublings  of  their  course.  So  we  went  along, 
the  work  of  rapidly  taking  the  angles  with  the  prismatic 
compass  and  judging  the  distance  by  eye  keeping  me 
fully  occupied,  for  it  is  by  no  means  an  easy  task  to  take 
the  necessary  observations  when  one  is  moving  at  the 
rate  of  eight  or  ten  miles  an  hour  down  a river  con- 
tinually doubling  on  itself.  It  must  have  been  some 
hours  after  the  start  that  we  came  suddenly  upon  a large 
village  which  we  afterwards  learnt  went  by  the  name  of 
Kamura.  The  boat  was  quickly  swung  round,  and  the 
anchor  dropped  in  mid-stream. 

The  surprise  and  excitement  caused  by  our  sudden 
approach  from  above  was  intense.  One  warning  cry  and 
the  whole  population  was  fleeing  to  the  bush,  then,  realis- 
ing who  we  were,  they  turned,  the  women  entering  their 
huts  to  bring  out  bamboos  filled  with  chalk,  which  they 
cast  in  clouds  into  the  air,  the  men  placing  bunches  of 
leaves  in  their  armlets  as  evidence  of  their  peaceful  inten- 
tions. These  preliminaries  accomplished, the  whole  body 
rushed  with  one  accord  into  the  river  to  meet  us,  com- 
mencing the  usual  dancing  inseparable  from  a greeting 
in  these  parts,  but  which  on  this  occasion  was  all  the 
more  curious  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  majority  of  the 
women  were  in  a complete  state  of  nudity. 

They  were  a wild-looking  crew,  of  a much  lower 
type  than  any  we  had  previously  encountered.  The  vil- 
lage was  of  the  universal  pattern,  with  about  200  huts, 
but  there  was  a complete  absence  of  bordering  cocoa- 
nut  or  bread-fruit  trees,  nor  was  there  any  other  sign  of 
cultivation.  Whilst  the  old  men  prevented  the  women 
from  approaching  too  close  to  the  boats,  the  younger 
ones  tried  their  best  to  clamber  on  board,  a privilege 
not  allowed,  as  we  neither  liked  their  looks  nor  their 
manners,  and  they  had  therefore  to  be  content,  much  to 

337  y 


A WILD-LOOKING  CREW 


their  disappointment,  with  standing  waist-deep  in  the 
water.  In  this  position  conversation  was  carried  on 
with  difficulty,  as  they  made  such  a babel  of  noise  that 
no  definite  remarks  could  be  exchanged  on  either  side. 
I gave  them  a few  fish-hooks  and  beads,  thinking  that 
this  might  encourage  them  to  bring  some  fruit  if  they 
had  any,  the  only  result  being  to  create  more  excitement 
and  to  draw  a still  greater  number  of  men  into  the  river. 
They  were  of  a lower  type  and  of  a more  brutal  counte- 
nance than  any  we  had  met  before,  and  almost  to  a man 
were  nude.  They  seemed  to  know  little  about  us  and 
our  ways,  so  we  soon  weighed  anchor,  and  bade  them 
adieu. 

Hardly  had  the  engines  started  than  four  boat-loads 
of  men  at  once  set  off  in  pursuit,  but  as  the  current 
carried  us  along  at  a fine  pace  they  and  the  village  were 
soon  left  behind.  For  two  miles  there  was  nothing  to 
impede  our  progress.  Round  sharp  bends  we  swept,  the 
river  often  doubling  upon  itself  and  flowing  between 
banks  of  a dense  scrub-like  jungle,  making  record  time, 
till  the  engines  again  broke  down  and  further  tinkering 
was  required. 

Whilst  we  were  busied  in  this  task  the  four  canoes 
which  had  followed  us  from  Kamura  village  suddenly 
appeared  upon  the  scene,  and  without  more  ado  drew 
up  alongside  the  yawl.  Without  recognising  our  exist- 
ence, or  with  so  much  as  a word,  two  men  stepped  out 
and  began  to  remove  the  box  of  trade  goods  from  which 
the  hooks  and  beads  had  been  taken,  and  which  also 
contained  several  knives  and  a few  axes.  It  was  already 
half  on  to  the  man’s  shoulder  when  Bahadur  (the 
Gurkhas  are  always  quick  to  make  up  their  minds),  with 
a shout  of  rage  which  was  enough  to  daunt  the  stoutest 
heart,  drove  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  into  the  thief’s  ribs. 

338 


Suspicious  Movements 


AN  ERRATIC  MOTOR 

Down  the  box  clattered  into  the  bottom  of  the  boat ; 
had  it  been  red-hot  it  could  not  have  been  dropped 
quicker,  and  the  now  vociferous  savages  hastily  with- 
drew a stone’s-throw  away  to  discuss  the  new  turn 
affairs  had  taken.  A plan  of  action  was  soon  concocted, 
and  they  divided  forces,  half  vanishing  into  the  jungle 
and  moving  down-stream,  whilst  the  others  watched  us 
from  above.  Threats  to  open  fire  upon  them  had  no 
effect,  and  it  was  evident  that  they  had  little  idea  of 
the  power  of  a gun. 

Whilst  this  was  going  on  strenuous  efforts  were 
being  made  to  persuade  the  motor-engine  to  start  afresh. 
Ten  minutes  of  violent  turning  of  the  fly-wheel  left  her 
as  lifeless  as  before,  and  then  suddenly,  without  anything 
more  being  done,  she  suddenly  started  into  life  again. 
It  was  particularly  lucky  for  the  Papuans  that  this 
did  occur,  as  though  we  had  no  wish  to  use  our 
weapons  unless  absolutely  compelled  to  do  so,  blood 
would  certainly  have  been  shed  had  they  advanced 
a second  time.  As,  however,  the  launch  was  now  run- 
ning well,  we  could  afford  to  laugh  at  their  disappointed 
looks  as  the  boat  set  off  at  full  speed  down  the  river. 
On  glancing  back  they  were  seen  to  be  still  in  the  same 
place,  we  hope  satisfied  at  length  that  we  could  escape 
them  when  we  chose.  What  became  of  the  jungle 
party  we  never  knew ; at  any  rate  no  further  trouble 
was  experienced,  as  this  was  the  last  time  we  were  to 
come  in  contact  with  this  avaricious  and  degraded  tribe. 

Within  an  hour  we  had  entered  a glorious  bay,  five 
or  six  miles  in  length  and  one  or  two  in  width.  Islands 
both  large  and  small  rose  on  either  side  from  the  still 
surface  of  the  water,  the  channels  between  having  a 
depth  of  eighteen  feet  or  more.  The  bay  as  shown  in 
the  map  is  not  quite  as  accurately  defined  as  one  could 

339 


A GLORIOUS  BAY 

wish,  owing  to  the  loss  of  the  prismatic  compass, 
which  slipped  from  my  hands  into  the  river  as  we  were 
leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Kamura. 

What  an  exquisite  picture  the  bay  presented,  and  one 
appreciated  all  the  more  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of 
beautiful  scenery  in  these  parts,  and  the  impossibility  of 
obtaining  an  extensive  view  when  in  the  enclosed  and 
monotonous  forest.  Here  lay  islands  and  headlands, 
dark  and  sombre,  but  standing  out  distinct  from  one 
another  as  the  sun  caught  the  edges  of  their  shores, 
their  varied  forms  rising  from  the  glassy  pale-green 
waters  of  the  lagoon,  whose  dark  and  sinuous  creeks 
stretched  into  the  jungle  in  all  directions.  Then  to  the 
south  the  blue  ocean  and  the  cloudless  sky ; to  the  north 
masses  of  cumulus  cloud  rising  into  the  blue  vault  of 
heaven,  with  the  purple  line  of  the  foothills  of  the 
central  range  lying  below.  Altogether  a pleasant, 
peaceful  scene. 

We  camped  upon  the  sands  just  within  the  mouth 
of  the  bay,  upon  the  site  of  an  old  fishing  village  and 
beneath  a cluster  of  palms.  From  here  the  mouth  of 
the  elusive  Wania  River  could  be  distinguished  in  the 
far  north-eastern  corner  of  the  bay,  but  much  as  we 
longed  to  explore  its  waters,  nothing  could  be  accom- 
plished with  the  motor  engine  working  so  erratically  as 
it  had  been  doing  of  late. 

There  was  again  an  enforced  halt  of  several  hours 
at  this  place,  the  boat  this  time  being  left  stranded  on 
the  fall  of  the  tide.  Our  united  efforts  to  push  and 
heave  her  into  deep  water  only  resulted  in  our  being 
covered  from  head  to  foot  with  a black  and  evil-smelling 
slime  which,  though  exceedingly  objectionable  to  us, 
proved  to  be  the  happy  hunting-ground  of  innumerable 
fish.  Shoals  of  gorgeous-coloured  specimens  collected 

340 


GORGEOUS-COLOURED  FISH 

n the  shade  of  the  boat,  possibly  mistaking  it  for  a 
floating  tree-trunk  from  which  grubs  and  other  kinds 
of  food  might  be  procured.  Greedily  they  sucked  up 
the  grains  of  rice  thrown  overboard,  and  even  sipped 
the  floating  petrol  without  any  apparent  distaste.  Every 
imaginable  colour  and  shape  seemed  to  have  here  a 
representative — round  fish  and  square  fish,  fish  as  flat  as 
a piece  of  paper  and  as  long  and  thin  as  pencils,  spiky 
fish  and  smooth  fish  ; give  them  all  a hundred  vivid  hues 
and  brilliant  spots,  stripes  and  blotches,  and  some  idea 
of  the  sight  may  be  obtained. 

When  once  afloat  we  made  for  the  Mimika  at  our 
best  speed  and,  except  for  a few  involuntary  stops, 
arrived  at  W akatimi  without  further  mishap. 

During  the  previous  fortnight  the  weather  had  been 
perfect,  very  different  from  that  experienced  in  the 
corresponding  season  in  1910,  when  rain  fell  in  torrents 
daily.  Both  years,  I fancy,  were  exceptional,  for  in  the 
former  year  much  forest  land  upon  which  great  trees 
had  been  growing  for  centuries  was  carried  away  by 
the  flood,  and  in  the  middle  of  March  1911  the  jungle 
was  showing  visible  signs  of  being  parched  from  want 
of  rain. 


341 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


Wania  Bay — An  unexpected  bar — Our  unfortunate  motor  boat — A lost 
propeller — A critical  position — Salving  the  launch — A humorous  com- 
parison— The  last  voyage — A welcome  sight — An  unexpected  rein- 
forcement 

jL  that  now  remained  to  be  done  in  order  to 


complete  the  map  of  the  district  was  the  explora- 
tion of  the  Wania  River.  I had  already  made  four 
attempts,  but  from  one  cause  or  another  had  on  each 
occasion  been  prevented  from  carrying  out  the  work. 
This  time  I was  determined  to  finish  the  matter,  and 
as  a breakdown  of  the  motor  boat  seemed  to  be  the 
only  thing  which  could  possibly  occur  to  prevent  our 
success,  her  engines  were  thoroughly  overhauled  and 
the  smallest  defects  rectified.  Everything  promised 
well,  and  in  the  second  week  of  March,  Wollaston, 
Marshall,  and  1,  together  with  seven  men,  packed  the 
yawl  with  rations  for  a week,  tied  her  astern,  and 
started  off  in  high  spirits  down  the  Mimika. 

We  made  good  time  to  the  mouth,  passed  the  bar 
in  safety,  and  with  the  aid  of  a strong  current' within 
three  hours  were  off  the  mouth  of  the  Wania  Bay. 
To  my  intense  surprise,  a bar  of  sand  stretched  from 
shore  to  shore  across  the  very  channel  where  I had 
passed  a week  before,  and  where  we  had  been  unable 
to  find  bottom  with  the  eighteen-foot  pole.  Strong 
south-westerly  winds  had  been  blowing  since  then,  but 
it  seemed  almost  incredible  that  in  such  a short  time 
the  coast  line  could  have  become  so  changed  and  the 


342 


AN  UNEXPECTED  BAR 

deep  entrance  to  the  harbour  completely  closed  by  a 
bar  of  sand  rising  at  least  two  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  water.  It  was  only  another  example  of  how 
little  dependence  can  be  placed  in  harbours  and  en- 
trances along  this  portion  of  the  coast  as  havens  of 
refuge. 

Had  the  Kamura  and  Wania  rivers  been  in  flood, 
or  had  the  rainfall  been  up  to  the  average,  this  closing 
of  the  mouth  could  never  have  happened,  as  the  volume 
of  water  descending  from  the  mountains  is  in  ordinary 
times  sufficient  to  sweep  away  any  obstruction. 

There  was  still  another  possible  way  of  entering  the 
river,  namely  by  the  eastern  mouth,  three  miles  farther 
along  the  coast.  Here  again  we  were  checkmated,  as 
the  wild  surf  breaking  on  the  bar  clearly  showed  that 
there  was  no  possibility  of  forcing  a passage  for  many 
hours  to  come  and  until  the  tide  was  full.  As  the 
weather  was  becoming  rapidly  worse  and  a lengthy 
wait  in  this  position  was  out  of  the  question,  we  decided 
to  return  and  take  shelter  for  the  night  in  the  mouth 
of  the  Mimika.  By  so  doing  one  day  would  be  lost, 
but  as  there  were  ample  provisions  in  the  boats  one 
day  more  or  less  made  little  difference.  On  heading 
to  the  west  it  was  at  once  noticed  how  much  the  wind 
and  sea  had  risen,  which  made  us  all  the  more  anxious 
to  get  quickly  to  a harbour  of  refuge  and  in  a position 
safe  from  any  storm.  The  engines,  upon  which  we 
could  never  place  much  reliance,  were  on  this  occasion 
working  perfectly,  and  there  was  every  reason  to  believe 
that  within  three  hours  we  should  be  safely  berthed  for 
the  night.  Progress  was  slow,  but  the  voyage  was  full 
of  joy  for  those  of  us  who  loved  the  sea,  and  whatever 
the  conditions  might  be  it  was  better  to  be  afloat  than 
on  dry  land — so  we  at  that  time  thought. 

843 


A LOST  PROPELLER 

When  opposite  to  and  about  a couple  of  miles 
oft'  the  mouth  of  the  Atoeka.  the  band  connect- 
ing the  magneto  with  the  fly-wheel  of  the  engine 
slipped  oft",  but  as  this  was  an  almost  hourly  occurrence 
no  special  attention  was  paid  to  it.  and  nothing  much 
was  thought  of  the  fact  that  the  engines  immediately 
began  to  race  at  an  abnormal  speed.  These  latter  were 
slowed  down,  the  strap  replaced,  and  we  composed 
ourselves  again  to  enjoy  the  exhilarating  sensation  of 
being  tossed  about  during  the  remainder  of  the  journey. 
The  engines  were  now  running  smoothly  enough,  but 
to  our  horror  the  boat  made  not  an  inch  of  progress. 
Instinctively  we  guessed  what  had  happened.  A quick 
glance,  first  at  the  revolving  shaft  and  then  over  the 
stern  of  the  boat,  made  it  clear  at  once  that  the  worst 
of  all  possible  disasters  had  overtaken  us — the  propeller 
had  worked  loose  from  the  shaft  and  had  sunk  to  the 
bottom  of  the  sea.  Without  a jar  or  a blow,  without 
apparent  cause  or  reason,  the  holding  pin  and  nut  had 
given  way.  and  with  them  had  gone  the  screw.  When 
the  launch  was  employed  on  convoy  work  on  the  river 
the  screw  had  come  in  contact  with  sunken  logs  on  so 
many  occasions  that,  as  a result,  the  propeller  blades 
had  been  bent  almost  double,  but  being  of  good  metal 
they  had  stood  the  re-straightening  well ; the  present 
accident,  however,  showed  that  more  serious  damage 
had  been  done  to  the  shaft  than  had  been  imagined, 
and  that  the  threads  of  the  screw  must  have  been  torn 
almost  smooth. 

The  position  we  were  now  in  was  anything  but 
pleasant.  The  two  boats,  one  a crippled  and  leaky 
motor  launch  and  the  other  a ship's  yawl,  containing 
ten  men  and  a heavy  load  of  stores,  equipment  and 
baggage,  lay  two  miles  oft'  the  land  on  an  exposed 

344 


A CRITICAL  POSITION 

shore,  and  twelve  miles  from  the  nearest  known  refuge. 
Besides  this,  we  were  surrounded  by  foam-covered  reefs, 
in  the  teeth  of  a rising  storm,  and  in  a sea  full  of 
sharks. 

The  yawl’s  pair  of  oars  were  quickly  got  out  and  she 
was  put  on  to  tow  the  launch,  but  so  strong  was  the 
current  that  instead  of  making  headway  we  steadily 
lost  ground.  The  anchor  therefore  was  dropped,  and 
the  yawl  once  more  tied  up  in  her  old  place  astern.  We 
had  now  no  choice  but  to  remain  where  we  were  and 
ride  out  the  storm,  trusting  that  the  anchor  would  not 
drag,  that  we  should  escape  being  swamped,  and — most 
likely  thing  of  all — that  the  yawl’s  rope,  which  had 
already  snapped  once  that  day,  would  hold  throughout 
the  night.  Were  it  to  break  again  there  would  be  little 
chance  of  any  of  the  crew  reaching  land  alive. 

Throughout  the  afternoon  the  wind  increased  in 
violence,  and  when  night  fell  we  were  in  a most  critical 
position ; to  partly  compensate  for  this  most  of  the  crew 
were  so  ill  that  they  cared  little  whether  the  boat  floated 
or  went  to  the  bottom.  Fortunately  we  were  spared 
complete  darkness,  for  the  moon  was  at  its  full,  but  by 
her  light  we  had  distressing  visions  of  the  yawl  being 
tossed  hither  and  thither,  and  straining  with  horrid  jerks 
at  the  rope  which  restrained  her.  She  was,  however, 
somewhat  under  the  lee  of  the  motor  boat,  and  in 
that  position  partly  sheltered  from  the  full  force  of 
the  waves.  How  the  two  boats  tossed  and  rolled, 
twisted  and  turned  ! In  spite  of  the  strain  the  anchor 
held  fast,  and  except  for  shipping  a few  bucketsful  of 
water  we  remained  dry,  which  was  something  to  be 
thankful  for.  At  midnight,  when  affairs  seemed  to  be 
reaching  a climax,  and  there  was  but  a hair’s-breadth 
between  our  sinking  or  swimming,  the  wind  ceased  to 

345 


SHALLOW  SEAS 

increase  in  violence,  remained  steady  for  half  an  hour, 
and  then,  to  our  intense  relief,  commenced  to  drop, 
and  so  continued  till  daybreak. 

In  these  shallow  seas,  for  though  we  were  fully  two 
miles  from  land  there  were  not  over  two  fathoms  of 
water  under  the  keel,  the  sea  falls  as  rapidly  as  it  gets 
up,  and  before  the  sun  was  well  above  the  horizon  had 
dropped  almost  sufficiently  to  allow  the  yawl  to  set  out 
for  the  shore.  As  the  force  of  the  current  was  as  strong 
as  ever,  any  attempt  to  tow  the  motor  boat  was  hope- 
less. It  was  therefore  decided  to  abandon  her  for  the 
present,  and  if  she  did  not  sink  in  the  meantime  to  salve 
her  later  on.  The  goods  were  slowly  and  with  difficulty 
transhipped  to  the  yawl,  and  when  she  was  loaded  with 
the  ten  men  in  addition,  there  remained  but  little  free- 
board above  the  level  of  the  water. 

The  village  of  Xime  lay  only  six  miles  away,  and 
though  we  at  first  set  out  in  the  direction  of  this  place, 
the  waves  broke  so  continuously  over  the  boat  and 
there  was  such  evident  danger  of  our  being  swamped, 
that  a course  was  soon  shaped  for  the  nearer  but  treach- 
erous bay  of  Timoura,  in  the  hope  that  some  opening 
might  be  found  through  the  foam-covered  reef  which 
closed  its  mouth.  Fortune  was  again  kind,  and  almost 
before  we  knew  we  were  clear,  a narrow  channel  opened 
before  us  and  we  had  grounded  upon  a mudbank,  tired 
out,  soaked  to  the  skin,  but  thankful  enough  to  reach 
even  such  an  inhospitable  shore.  The  tide  falling  rapidly, 
we  were  compelled  to  remain  here  till  midnight,  when 
with  the  return  of  the  water  the  boat  floated  once  more, 
and  an  hour  later  shelter  was  obtained  among  the  trees 
on  the  mainland. 

There  was  no  time  to  waste  if  the  leaky  launch 
wras  to  be  saved,  so  disembarking  the  stores  as  quickly 

346 


A HUMOROUS  COMPARISON 

as  possible,  we  once  more  set  forth  and  reached  the 
launch  at  daybreak,  to  find  her  full  of  water  but  still 
floating ; taking  her  in  tow  she  was  grounded  on  the 
shore  at  midday.  Here  she  became  so  firmly  wedged 
that  another  night  had  to  be  spent  waist-deep  in  the 
water  working  to  refloat  her,  only  to  find  when  once 
we  had  succeeded  that,  although  she  would  still  keep 
above  water,  her  old  timbers  had  opened  so  much  that 
she  was  little  better  than  a sieve. 

Savages  from  the  villages  to  the  east  and  Nime  to 
the  west  had  appeared  at  intervals,  keen  as  ever  on  the 
chance  of  doing  a bit  of  trade,  but  as  soon  as  we 
suggested  that  they  might  lend  a hand  and  do  a bit 
of  work  they  at  once  made  themselves  scarce.  At 
length  a dozen  strangers  from  the  east  were  engaged 
to  paddle  the  launch  to  Nime,  and  so  well  did  these 
born  watermen  work  that,  with  the  aid  of  their  long 
native  paddles,  they  made  the  old  boat  travel  nearly 
as  fast  as  the  yawl.  There  was  a certain  amount  of 
humour  in  the  sight  of  the  modern  motor  boat,  one  of 
the  latest  products  of  civilisation,  being  propelled  by 
primitive  paddles  wielded  by  men  who  belonged  to  the 
stone  age. 

That  night  we  rested  at  Nime.  With  the  exception 
of  half  a dozen  men  and  boys,  the  one  thousand  to 
twelve  hundred  people  formerly  living  here  had  dis- 
appeared on  one  of  the  peculiar  and  temporary  migra- 
tions which  these  people  seem  so  fond  of  undertaking. 
Why  they  should  all  have  moved  at  once,  unless  it  was 
that  they  had  got  tired  of  a place  and  wanted  a change, 
I cannot  tell.  Fish  were  just  as  plentiful  at  Nime  as 
before,  and  the  sago  swamps  just  as  fruitful,  but  there 
must  without  doubt  have  been  something  more  attractive 
inland  or  they  would  never  have  left  their  huts  and 

347 


THE  LAST  VOYAGE 

splendid  dancing  halls  for  so  long  to  the  mercy  of  the 
storms. 

Two  days  later  we  were  in  the  Mimika  Bay,  and 
the  unfortunate  journey  was  over ; five  hours  had  been 
taken  on  the  outward  and  five  days  on  the  return 
voyage,  and  the  Wania  had  defeated  us  at  the  last. 
Though  we  much  regretted  that  the  survey  of  this  fine 
river  was  and  had  to  remain  incomplete,  it  was  no  good 
crying  over  spilt  milk.  We  were  safely  out  of  an 
awkward  predicament,  and  that  without  any  loss  of 
life,  which  was  something  to  be  thankful  for. 

This  last  day  of  the  journey  was  a glorious  one.  I 
can  picture  the  scene  now,  with  the  sea  like  glass  and 
the  sky  free  of  cloud,  and  the  two  boats  being  paddled 
slowly  forward  by  rows  of  garrulous  and  happy  savages. 
We  were  not  prepared  to  do  any  manual  labour  our- 
selves now  that  hired  hands  were  available,  and  if  the 
truth  were  told,  we  were  unfit  for  it.  The  past  fifteen 
months  had  left  its  mark  on  the  survivors,  and  had 
brought  them  to  a weaker  state  than  was  altogether 
pleasant. 

We  were  a contented  party  nevertheless,  and  were 
really  thankful  that  this  was  to  be  the  last  voyage  of 
the  expedition.  As  we  lay  back  in  the  boat,  filling  our 
lungs  with  the  fresh  sea  air,  and  wondering  how  long 
it  would  be  before  we  should  leave  the  land  for  good, 
a roving  eye  was  attracted  by  the  smallest  possible 
spiral  of  cloud  on  the  horizon.  First  one  saw  it  and 
then  another,  until  at  length  everyone,  black  and  white, 
began  to  speculate  as  to  what  it  meant.  Not  for  a 
moment  would  the  Papuans  allow  that  it  was  the  fore- 
runner of  a ship,  and  the  wish  being  father  to  the 
thought,  the  Europeans  and  Gurkhas  were  just  as  firmly 
convinced  that  it  was.  Then  it  drifted  and  vanished, 

348 


A WELCOME  SIGHT 

and  we  had  to  accept  the  scoffs  and  superior  smiles  of 
the  dusky  savages  with  what  equanimity  we  could  ; not 
for  long,  however,  for  in  a few  minutes  another  small 
cloud  formed  in  the  same  place,  and  our  spirits  and 
conviction  rose  with  a bound.  Argument  waxed  and 
waned,  until  within  an  hour  all  doubt  had  vanished. 
Above  the  horizon  crept  the  black  spot  of  a funnel, 
then  the  hull  of  a steamer  appeared,  slowly  growing 
larger  and  more  distinct,  until  we  could  make  out  the 
line  of  the  Zwaan  as  she  came  to  a stop  two  miles  out 
at  sea,  and  the  roar  of  her  chains  as  she  anchored  came 
like  music  to  our  ears. 

Three  months  previously  we  had  applied  to  the 
Dutch  authorities  in  Java  to  request  that  transport 
might  be  despatched  to  the  Mimika  River  to  withdraw 
the  expedition  as  soon  after  the  1st  of  April  as  was 
convenient.  As  it  was  now  only  the  third  week  in 
March,  the  point  we  were  eager  to  find  out  was  whether 
the  Zwaan  was  making  one  of  her  periodical  visits  to 
remove  the  sick,  or  whether  she  had  arrived  before  the 
time  appointed  on  the  chance  of  our  being  ready  to 
move. 

Speculation  was  but  a waste  of  time — we  should 
know  soon  enough  ; and  as  the  prospect  of  being  towed 
up  the  river  to  the  base  camp  was  preferable  to  a long 
and  wearying  struggle  against  the  current,  we  lay  to 
under  the  mangrove  trees,  chatting  on  the  pleasant 
times  to  come,  and  watching  through  our  glasses  the 
preparations  now  being  made  to  lower  and  take  in  tow 
the  ship’s  boats. 

One,  two,  three — six  boats  in  addition  to  the  launch. 
Hurrah  ! then  we  were  to  be  removed  at  once,  and  our 
journey  to  civilised  lands  was  as  good  as  begun.  As 
they  drew  clear  of  the  Zwaan  a horrid  doubt  crept  into 

349 


AN  UNEXPECTED  REINFORCEMENT 

our  minds,  for  the  boats  seemed  to  be  uncommonly 
heavily  laden,  and  the  nearer  they  approached  the  more 
peculiar  became  their  appearance.  Dozens  of  khaki- 
clad  men,  different  in  appearance  to  the  like  of  anything 
seen  before  sat  in  silent  rows,  with  red  fezzes  on  their 
heads  and  in  a spick  and  span  uniform. 

What  were  these  people  doing  here ; why  had  they 
come,  and  who  were  they  ? I hailed  the  launch,  and  on 
going  on  board,  full  of  curiosity,  was  introduced  to  Mr. 
Boden-Ivloss  of  the  Kuala  Lumpur  Museum.  From 
him  I learnt,  for  the  first  time,  that  he,  together  with 
thirty-eight  Dyaks  from  Sarawak,  and  stores  for  six 
months,  had  been  despatched  by  order  of  the  Home 
Committee  to  join  the  expedition.  This  was  the  last 
thing  in  the  world  we  had  expected,  and  in  our  then 
condition  the  least  welcome,  for  we  had  received  no 
intimation  of  this  reinforcement,  and  no  news  that  such 
an  event  was  contemplated.  These  Dyaks,  the  only 
men  at  all  suitable  for  transport  work  in  New  Guinea, 
for  whom  we  had  been  begging  from  the  very  start  of 
the  expedition  were,  without  warning,  sent  out  to  join 
us  fifteen  months  after  our  first  landing,  three  months 
after  we  had  sent  our  application  to  be  withdrawn,  and 
many  months  after  the  date  originally  determined  for 
the  closing  of  the  expedition.  Moreover,  they  had 
arrived  just  when  the  wettest  and  impossible  season  for 
travel  was  commencing,  when  all  collections  which  we 
had  contemplated  making  in  the  district  had  been  com- 
pleted and  the  specimens  actually  packed,  and  when 
the  whole  force  was  prepared  for  immediate  departure. 
Parimau  had  been  abandoned  to  the  natives,  and  the 
camps  allowed  to  fall  into  disrepair. 

To  postpone  our  departure  for  a further  term  of 
months  would  be  profitless  waste  of  time.  This  fact 

350 


LIMIT  OF  TIME  FOR  SERVICE 

alone,  that  the  principal  members  of  the  expedition  had 
been  in  the  country  for  a year  and  a quarter,  was 
sufficient,  in  itself,  to  necessitate  the  withdrawal  of  the 
force.  Eight  months  is  the  maximum  period  allowed 
by  the  Dutch  authorities  for  continuous  service  on 
these  expeditions  in  New  Guinea,  as  this  has  been 
found  by  experience  to  be  the  utmost  limit  of  time 
a man  can  stand  the  climate  without  serious  injury  to 
his  health. 

Our  own  past  experiences  had  taught  us  that,  for 
the  vast  majority  of  men  imported  from  the  East 
Indian  Islands,  a period  of  four  months  spent  in  con- 
tinuous work  is  as  much  as  can  be  counted  on  in 
a climate  such  as  is  to  be  found  in  the  south-western 
districts  of  the  island.  Cramer,  Wollaston,  Marshall, 
and  myself,  four  Gurkhas  and  three  of  the  escort  were 
the  sole  remaining  members  both  of  the  original  ex- 
pedition landed  fifteen  months  before  and  the  four 
hundred  imported  during  the  first  year.  We  were 
the  only  men  whose  stay  had  exceeded  eight  months’ 
duration. 

The  recruiting  and  despatch  of  this  force  of  Dyaks 
was  one  of  the  most  unfortunate  episodes  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  is  only  one  more  example  of  how  hopeless  it 
is  to  try  to  manage  an  expedition  from  a distant  base, 
instead  of  leaving  things  to  be  arranged  by  men  who, 
being  on  the  spot,  are  the  best  judges  of  what  measures 
should  be  taken  to  ensure  success.  Had  the  Dyaks 
been  enlisted  six  or  nine  months  earlier,  when  the 
unsuitability  of  the  ordinary  Malay  for  heavy  work  in 
New  Guinea  had  been  amply  proved,  their  services 
would  have  been  invaluable,  although,  even  then,  the 
men  were  too  few  in  number  to  have  enabled  us  to 
move  any  considerable  distance  into  the  mountains. 

351 


WAITING  FOR  THE  TRANSPORTS 

To  land  them  without  warning  at  Wakatimi  during 
the  final  weeks  of  the  expedition  was  inexcusable. 

Mr.  Ivloss,  grievous  as  the  disappointment  must  have 
been,  as  soon  as  he  had  seen  the  camp  and  realised 
how  matters  stood,  was  entirely  in  accord  with  our 
views  as  to  the  necessity  for  immediate  withdrawal ; 
in  the  morning  he  returned  to  the  Zvcaan,  taking  with 
him  his  own  men  and  every  sick  soldier  or  coolie  for 
whom  accommodation  could  be  found. 

We  watched  them  depart  with  mixed  feelings ; our 
disappointment  that  we  were  not  of  the  party  was 
mitigated  by  the  knowledge  that  our  turn  would  soon 
come,  for  they  would  carry  the  news  to  Amboina  of 
our  anxiety  to  leave.  Still  more  boxes  were  packed 
and  stored  ready  for  removal,  and  the  finishing  touches 
having  been  given  to  this  work,  we  sat  down  to  wait, 
with  what  patience  we  could,  for  the  coming  of  the 
transports. 


352 


CHAPTER  XXV 


Completed  work — Results  of  the  expedition — Disappointed  hopes — Relief 
ships — Anticipating  trouble — Scenes  of  turmoil — Civilising  influence — 
Dobo — Dispersal  of  the  expedition — Dutch  hospitality 

IN  those  pleasant  quiet  evenings  spent  by  the  river, 
enjoying  the  good  things  left  behind  by  Kloss,  our 
minds  free  from  the  worries  of  transport  and  from  the 
difficulties  of  surmounting  the  ever  recurring  natural 
obstructions,  we  had  plenty  of  time  to  review  the 
labours  of  the  past  year,  to  balance  the  pros  and  cons, 
to  weigh  the  successes  against  the  failures,  and  to 
question  whether  the  collections  might  have  been  still 
further  enriched  or  the  survey  extended. 

The  expedition  was  over  and  the  work  complete. 
All  that  man  could  do  to  form  the  collections  and  com- 
plete the  survey  had  been  done,  and  we  were  entitled 
to  rest  from  our  labours.  With  the  one  exception  of 
the  snows  not  having  been  reached,  every  other  object 
for  which  we  had  set  out  had  been  attained,  and  although 
the  time  expended  and  the  loss  of  life  entailed  had  been 
in  excess  of  what  had  been  anticipated,  yet  the  obstacles 
encountered  had  been  greater  than  what  we  had  been 
led  to  expect  and  for  which  provision  had  been  made. 
On  the  whole  we  had  little  to  reproach  ourselves  with, 
and  much  with  which  to  be  content. 

Close  at  hand  for  the  museums  were  packed  2200 
skins  of  birds  comprising  235  species,  many  of  which 
were  new  to  science  ; six  cases  of  mammal  skins ; many 
tanks  and  bottles  of  reptiles  ; entomological  specimens  ; 

358  z 


RESULTS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

quantities  of  ethnographical  objects  of  great  interest 
and  value,  and,  what  appealed  to  Marshall  and  myself 
still  more,  a map  of  3000  square  miles  of  a hitherto 
unknown  land,  complete  in  every  detail,  from  the 
highest  peaks  of  newly-discovered  mountains  to  the 
sluggish  rivers  of  the  plains.  Amongst  other  discoveries 
of  geographical  interest  must  not  be  forgotten  the  snow 
mountains  of  Idenburg,  the  castellated  peaks  of  Leonard 
Darwin,  and  the  greatest  precipice  in  the  world.  In 
addition,  new  races  of  man  had  been  encountered  and 
studied,  tribes  hitherto  unknown  and  still  living  in  the 
stone  age.  But  of  more  human  interest  than  all  these 
was  the  discovery  of  the  Tapiro  pygmies,  a really  re- 
markable find  at  this  period  of  the  world’s  history,  and 
sufficient  in  itself  to  have  warranted  the  despatch  of 
the  expedition. 

In  the  attempt  to  reach  the  snows  of  Carstensz  we 
had  accomplished  the  longest  cross-country  journey 
ever  attempted  in  Dutch  New  Guinea.  Against  these 
gains  had  to  be  placed  the  one  failure  to  reach  the 
snows.  We  could,  however,  console  ourselves  with  the 
thought  that  few  expeditions,  and  least  of  all  those  on 
pioneer  journeys,  succeed  in  attaining  the  full  summit 
of  their  desires,  and  in  our  case  we  had  the  knowledge 
that,  with  the  Mimika  River  as  a line  of  communica- 
tion, this  particular  feat  was  impossible.  At  the  con- 
clusion we  had  much  to  be  thankful  for,  since  at  one 
period  the  outlook  had  been  so  dark  and  the  prospects 
of  an  advance  into  the  mountains  so  hopeless,  that  the 
withdrawal  and  reorganisation  of  the  expedition  had 
been  seriously  discussed.  The  number  of  lives  sacri- 
ficed in  obtaining  these  results  had  been  large,  but  not 
much  more  so  than  is  usual  in  expeditions  of  this  kind 
and  undertaken  in  a country  approaching  the  un- 

354 


DISAPPOINTED  HOPES 

healthiness  of  New  Guinea.  Accidents  and  disease 
had  taken  a heavy  toll,  but — 

No  game  was  ever  yet  worth  a rap 
For  a rational  man  to  play. 

Into  which  no  accident,  no  mishap 
Could  possibly  find  its  way. 

We  had  gained  much  valuable  experience  which  will 
be  useful  to  others.  As  I write  Wollaston  has  set  forth 
again  with  a most  perfectly  equipped  expedition,  taking 
a new  and  greater  river  as  his  line  of  advance,  and 
there  can  be  little  doubt,  provided  no  unforeseen  disaster 
overtakes  him,  that  his  ambition  to  reach  Carstensz  by 
this  route  will  this  time  be  realised. 

Day  followed  day  with  monotonous  regularity. 
From  early  dawn  on  to  eleven  o’clock  our  minds  were 
full  of  pleasurable  anticipation  that  the  final  day  had 
arrived.  From  that  hour  to  two  o’clock  our  ears  were 
strained  to  catch  the  sound  of  a launch’s  whistle  as  she 
entered  the  straight  before  the  camp ; and  then,  as  the 
minutes  passed  by  and  there  was  no  sign,  our  hopes 
would  steadily  dwindle  till  dusk  came  and  the  last 
chance  had  vanished  for  the  day.  With  our  nerves 
strung  to  the  highest  pitch  of  expectancy,  it  was  inevit- 
able that  false  alarms  and  reports  should  find  currency 
in  the  camp  on  several  occasions ; these  were  generally 
caused  by  the  warning  cries  of  the  Papuans,  who  under- 
stood quite  well  what  we  were  expecting,  and  were 
likewise  infected  with  the  spirit  of  anticipation ; or  it 
might  be  by  the  sound  of  a falling  tree  in  the  forest, 
the  breaking  stems  being  taken  over  and  over  again  for 
the  reports  of  signal  guns  fired  by  an  arriving  ship.  So 
realistic  were  some  of  the  latter  that  on  one  occasion 
the  Dutch,  after  hurriedly  changing  into  their  best 
clothes,  manned  the  yawl  and  pulled  to  the  mouth  of 

355 


ANTICIPATING  TROUBLE 

the  river,  returning  weary  and  depressed  long  after  mid- 
night with  the  news  that  their  quest  had  been  in  vain. 

Everything,  however,  comes  to  him  who  waits,  and 
on  5th  April  such  a shout  went  up  from  the  village 
opposite  as  to  leave  no  possible  doubt  that  the  relief 
ships  were  off  the  coast  at  last.  Our  old  friend  the 
Z-jcaan  had  arrived,  closely  followed  by  the  gunboat 
Mataram,  with  orders  that  no  time  was  to  be  lost  in 
removing  the  expedition  to  Amboina. 

Not  since  our  first  landing  in  the  country  had  the 
camp  so  throbbed  with  animation ; and  though  it  was 
fully  recognised  that  two  whole  days  would  be  required 
to  remove  the  men  and  stores,  yet  so  intense  was  the 
anxiety  to  be  off,  and  so  great  the  fear  that  the  ships 
might  depart  and  leave  the  laggards  to  spend  the 
remainder  of  their  lives  on  these  inhospitable  shores, 
that  the  coolies  could  scarcely  be  dissuaded  from  placing 
their  boxes  on  the  pier  and  sitting  upon  them  through- 
out the  dark  hours  of  the  night. 

During  the  two  following  days  the  work  of  trans- 
portation was  carried  on  apace,  every  movement  being 
eagerly  watched  by  hundreds  of  wild-looking  Papuans 
who  had  been  drawn  to  the  camp  from  neighbouring 
and  distant  villages  by  the  prospect  of  obtaining  a share 
of  the  stores,  which  they  knew  would  be  abandoned  on 
our  departure.  To  judge  by  the  number  of  weapons 
carried,  trouble  over  the  division  of  the  spoil  was  antici- 
pated; and  as  each  village  in  the  district  was  represented, 
it  is  more  than  likely  that  many  fights  subsequently  took 
place.  No  traces  of  pleasure  or  of  sorrow  were  visible 
whereby  an  inkling  might  be  gained  as  to  their  real 
feelings  concerning  our  coming  departure  out  of  their 
midst.  Their  expressions  and  looks  were  a compound 
of  suspicion  and  greed,  suspicion  that  we  might 
yet  be  tempted  to  change  our  hitherto  exemplary  be- 

356 


SCENES  OF  TURMOIL 

haviour  and  work  them  some  harm  (for  they  never  could 
fathom  the  reason  of  our  stay),  and  greed  engendered 
by  the  sight  of  the  accumulated  heaps  of  rubbish  which 
they  knew  we  would  leave  behind. 

On  7th  April  I left  by  the  last  trip  but  one  made  by 
the  launch,  and  by  so  doing  missed  the  scene  which  took 
place  when  the  last  party  stood  on  the  pier  and  the  camp 
was  given  over  to  the  tender  mercy  of  the  Papuans. 

In  one  moment  the  savage  throng  had  burst  through 
the  palings  surrounding  the  buildings,  and  proved  them- 
selves to  be  as  wild  and  quarrelsome  now  as  they  had 
been  when  we  first  came  amongst  them.  Whilst  men 
and  women  fought  with  one  another  in  the  mad  lust  for 
loot,  to  seize  upon  and  carry  off  what  they  most  coveted, 
and  whilst  the  armed  and  the  defenceless  struggled  to- 
gether to  be  the  first  to  enter  the  huts,  the  last  members 
of  the  expedition  stepped  into  the  boats  and  passed 
quietly  down-stream,  to  the  accompaniment  of  angry 
cries  reverberating  through  the  camp,  unnoticed  by  those 
amongst  whom  they  had  lived  so  long ; the  bend  of  the 
river  and  the  gathering  dusk  quickly  hid  from  view 
both  the  village  of  W akatimi  and  the  camp  upon  which 
so  much  care  and  labour  had  been  spent.  Wild  shrieks 
had  greeted  us  on  our  first  arrival  in  the  country,  and 
wild  shrieks  echoed  down  the  still  reaches  of  the  river 
as  the  boats  crept  towards  the  sea.  It  is  easy  to  imagine 
the  scenes  of  riotous  turmoil  which  that  night  swept 
over  the  village  of  Wakatimi  and  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  and  to  picture  the  ghostly  forms  of  the 
savages  as,  full  of  greed  and  covetousness,  they  wandered 
with  flickering  torches  through  the  deserted  huts  seek- 
ing for  what  might  have  been  overlooked  in  the  wild 
rush  of  the  evening. 

Around  the  Mataram  and  the  Zwaan  the  waters 
were  quiet  and  deserted ; the  canoes,  which  had  been 

357 


CIVILISING  INFLUENCE 

lying  off  all  day,  had  vanished  silently  and  mysteriously 
as  darkness  fell,  their  crews  possibly  little  realising  that 
they  would  see  us  no  more.  Will  any  of  the  living 
generation  of  Mimika  Papuans  ever  see  a white  man 
again  ? It  is  most  unlikely ; and  all  that  their  descend- 
ants will  have  to  remind  them  of  the  strange  race, 
who  so  unexpectedly  came  into  their  midst,  will  be  the 
stories  of  our  visit  recorded  in  songs  chorused  round  the 
hut-fires  in  the  evenings,  or  the  history  attached  to  the 
axes,  scraps  of  metal,  beads,  and  precious  odds  and  ends 
handed  down  from  father  to  son  as  family  heirlooms. 

I am  firmly  convinced  that  our  contact  with  the 
Parimau  and  up-river  people  must  have  had  a good  and 
civilising  influence  upon  them.  They  certainly  saw 
enough  of  us  to  learn  some  of  the  advantages  of  peace 
and  industry,  to  learn  what  it  meant  to  be  able  to  trust 
the  words  of  others,  and  to  realise  that  honesty  paid 
better  than  deceit.  As  a by-remark,  it  is  worth  noting 
that  when  these  people  were  in  danger  of  losing  their 
most  precious  goods  they  actually  brought  their  things 
over  to  our  side  of  the  river,  leaving  them  near  our  huts 
without  any  protection  whatever,  knowing  that  under 
our  care  their  possessions  were  safe.  As  to  the  results 
of  our  attempts  to  introduce  a measure  of  civilisation 
amongst  the  coast  tribes  I am  less  sanguine,  but  at 
any  rate  we  can  feel  certain  that  we  did  them  no  harm, 
and  may  have  done  good.  At  the  very  least,  their  hard 
lives  have  been  temporarily  made  less  laborious  owing 
to  the  great  influx  of  axes  and  tools,  and  this  alone 
may  make  them  aspire  to  a slightly  higher  plane  of 
civilisation.  Our  departure  from  either  place  was  quite 
enough  to  show  the  different  degrees  in  which  our  influ- 
ence had  been  felt,  for  the  Parimau  people,  however 
shallow  in  reality  may  have  been  their  sorrow,  had  had 
sufficient  feeling  to  lavish  demonstrative  grief  upon  the 

3&8 


DISPERSAL  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

Europeans  and  Gurkhas  when  the  final  greetings  took 
place.  With  the  Wakatimi  people  the  reverse  was  the 
case. 

Dobo,  the  principal  and  only  important  village  in 
the  Aru  Islands,  was  reached  on  the  following  afternoon, 
and  the  dilapidated  motor  boat  and  much  of  the  surplus 
stores  handed  over  to  the  hospitable  members  of  the 
Celebes  Trading  Company.  The  boat  was  soon  sold  to 
one  of  the  many  eager  buyers,  but  though  one  year  has 
passed  since  then,  I understand  that  they  are  still  look- 
ing for  a purchaser,  or  anyone  who  will  even  remove 
the  cases  of  pea-flour  supplied  for  the  use  of  the  expedi- 
tion when  on  the  Equator  ! 

On  10th  April  we  entered  the  exquisite  bay  of  the 
island  of  Banda,  the  richest  of  the  spice  islands,  and  in 
the  olden  days  the  jewel  of  the  East,  for  the  possession 
of  which  innumerable  wars  have  been  waged  in  bygone 
times.  Now  all  its  artificial  glory  has  departed ; the 
splendid  palaces  of  the  merchants  are  in  decay  or  ruin, 
whilst  in  the  port  stagnation  reigns  in  place  of  the 
former  busy  activity. 

At  Amboina  the  dispersal  of  the  expedition  began, 
the  Javanese  troops  moving  to  their  respective  stations, 
and  the  coolies  to  their  homes  in  the  neighbouring 
islands.  We  had  hoped  that  Cramer  would  have 
accompanied  us  to  Java,  but  the  early  symptoms  of 
beri-beri  had  set  in ; he  being,  therefore,  the  first,  but 
by  no  means  the  last  of  the  survivors  to  fall  ill  owing 
to  the  after-results  of  an  over-strenuous  journey. 
From  a military  point  of  view,  no  better  officer  could 
have  been  selected  to  command  the  escort,  and  from 
the  expeditionary  standpoint  one  could  not  have  wished 
for  a more  tactful  comrade.  Those  who  have  travelled 
under  conditions  of  hardship  in  the  more  desolate 
countries  of  the  earth  will  understand  the  many  high 

359 


DISPERSAL  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

qualities  which  must  be  possessed,  even  by  one’s  closest 
friends,  in  order  that  affairs  may  progress  in  harmony 
and  goodwill ; how  much  more  so  must  be  the  case 
when  one’s  companions  are  those  of  another  nationality. 

Throughout  the  journey  from  Java  to  New  Guinea, 
and  from  New  Guinea  back  again  to  Amboina,  we 
were  the  guests  of  the  Dutch  Government,  whose 
generosity  and  hospitality  so  materially  helped  to  start 
the  expedition  and  bring  it  to  a successful  conclusion. 
It  is  impossible  for  individuals  adequately  to  mark  their 
appreciation  of  the  spontaneous  and  friendly  act  of  a 
foreign  government,  and  we  can  but  remember  that  such 
courtesies  do  much  to  increase  the  natural  friendly  rela- 
tions and  good  feeling  of  the  nations  concerned. 

The  few  remaining  Gurkhas  left  us  at  Singapore, 
and  before  long  reached  their  mountain  homes  in 
the  Himalayas,  preceded  by  their  excellent  Havildar, 
Mehesur  Singh,  rich  in  this  world’s  goods,  and  with 
the  knowledge  that  they  had  maintained  the  good 
name  of  their  race,  and  that  their  work  had  materially 
contributed  to  enrich  the  collections  and  make  possible 
the  advance  into  the  mountains. 

The  remaining  members  of  the  expedition  received 
every  possible  assistance  from  the  Board  and  repre- 
sentatives of  the  P.  & O.  Company,  ever  generous 
where  scientific  research  is  concerned,  and  reached 
England  on  25th  May,  twenty  months  after  having  left 
her  shores.  There  we  separated,  Wollaston  to  prepare 
for  fresh  travels  and  Marshall  to  take  a temporary  rest 
after  his  two  climatically  opposed  journeys — one  in  the 
coldest  area  of  the  world’s  surface,  and  the  other  under 
the  Equator. 

May  success  attend  them  both  ! 


3 GO 


Map  of  New  Guinea  for  “ In  the  Land  of  the  New  Guinea  Pygmies. 


PA  K T 


DUTCH  NEW  GUINEA 


to  illustrate  the  explorations  oT 
Captain  C G.Rawling.C  I E and  M"  E Marshall, M RCS  .L  R C P 
OF  THE  BRITISH  EXPEDITION 
1909  -II. 


icbscomb 


and  upnrar  natives 


Latitudes 


iCasuanna  tries  alongside  these 


Saqo 


Limit  of  Cocoanuts 


. Schouten  I* 


Plants 


ftapidsh. 

Plantations 

OB  OTA 

Bananas  ' 


Plantation 


Plantations 

ATPKAf. 


Tnnimbor  I 


Mangrot 


SEELEY  SERVICE 


DI  TCH  NEW  guinea 

alWLINC  •■a  MARSHALL 


INDEX 


A 

Aboriginal,  the  primitive,  71,  112 
Aeta,  the,  2G7,  277 
Age,  rapid  advance  of,  133 
Aiika  River,  the,  317 
Albinos,  55,  189 
Alligators,  294 

Amboina,  35,  58,  103 ; coolies  from, 
154,  359 

Andamanese,  the,  269,  277 
Animals.  See  mammals  and  birds 
Anopheles  mosquito,  the,  89,  134,  229 
Arifura  Sea,  the,  322 
Arrival  at  the  coast,  41 
Arrows,  pygmy,  259 
Arts  and  crafts  of  the  pygmies,  274 
Aru  Islands,  the,  155 
Atabo,  disease  at,  133  ; idol  at,  138, 
171,  281,  286 

Atoeka  River,  the,  188  ; survey  of,  330  ; 
village  of,  332 

Axes,  pygmy,  120  ; value  of,  155,  328, 
334,  358 

B 

Bali  Island,  36 

Banana  plantations,  65,  104 

Banda  Island,  357 

Barter,  exchange,  70,  79 ; with  the 
pygmies,  119 
Beer,  52,  61 

Beri-beri,  231,  232,  234,  359 
Birds — the  Hornbill,  87,  106  ; Crown 
pigeons,  87,  106  ; Cassowaries,  124, 
125  ; pets,  125  ; the  Bower-bird,  149  ; 
Pittars,  150  ; Birds  of  Paradise,  150, 
151,  216,  246  ; pigeons,  289  ; Brush 
Turkey,  289 ; Honeyeaters,  151  ; 
Fly-catchers,  151 ; Flower-peckers, 
151 ; Sun-birds,  151 ; Kingfishers, 
87 

Birth,  131 

Blue-bottles,  a plague  of,  199 
Boden  Kloss,  Mr.,  350,  352,  353 
Bower-bird,  the,  149 


Bows  and  arrows,  272 

Bridge  over  the  Iwaka,  309,  325 

British  Ornithologists’  Union,  25,  28  ; 

the  committee,  27,  291,  350 
Brush  Turkey,  289 

Burial  customs,  133,  136,  224  ; among 
the  pygmies,  275 
Buton  Island,  280 

C 

Cannibalism,  71,  73 
Canoe  convoys,  86 

Canoeing,  difficulties  of,  104,  237 ; 
dexterous,  144 

Canoes,  construction  of,  77  ; purchase 
of,  79  ; Dreadnought , the,  171  ; loss 
of,  239 

Carriers,  30,  34,  36  ; strange  conduct 
of,  197,  213  ; nervous,  249 
Carstensz,  Janz,  21 

Carstensz,  Mount,  25,  35,  38,  40,  84, 
220,  318,  321-323,  354 
Carteret,  Captain,  21 
Cassowaries,  hunting,  124,  125 
Casuarina  trees,  40,  201,  212 
Central  Range,  21,  241.  See  Nassau 
Range 

Chalmers,  Rev.  James,  22,  73 
Characteristics,  71 ; of  the  pygmies, 
252 

Charles  Louis  Mountains,  40,  243,  317 
Children,  treatment  of,  62,  131,  286 
Chinese,  influence  of  the,  133 

jar,  a,  189 

Cicatrisation,  60 
Cinematograph,  a,  221 
Civilisation,  effect  of,  58 
Clearings,  pygmy,  256 
Climate,  38,  49,  81,  85,  127,  190-195, 
252,  313 

Cloth,  the  value  of,  156 

Clothing,  57,  59, 207,  228 

Clubs,  178,  334 

Coal,  303,  320 

Coast  line,  the,  39,  317,  330 

tribes,  the,  53,  181,  331-335 


361 


INDEX 


Cock’s  Comb  Mountain,  320 
Coffins,  136,  224 
Collectors,  29 
Communal  building,  a,  49 
Concerts  at  Atabo,  281 
Convict  carriers,  34 
Cook,  Captain,  21 

Coolies,  36,  82 ; selecting  coolie  trans- 
port, 83,  152;  fever  amongst,  153, 
203,  291 ; miserable,  316 
Copper,  303 

Courage  of  the  natives,  139 
Crabs,  armies  of,  286 
Cramer,  Lieut.  H.  A.,  33,  45,  81,  104, 
163,  170,  244,  297,  301,359 
Creepers  and  parasites,  98 
Crown  pigeons,  106 
Curiosity  of  the  natives,  183 
Cuscus,  the,  125 
Customs,  131,  238 

D 

Dalrymple,  20 
Dampier,  William,  21 
Dances,  native,  48 

Dancing  hall,  at  Parimau,  123  ; at 
Atabo,  281 ; at  Atoeka,  332 
D’Albertis,  22 

Darwin,  Leonard,  Mt.,  318,  354 
D’Entrecasteau,  21 
D’Urville,  Colonel,  22 
De  Meneses,  Jorge,  19 
De  Retes,  Ortis,  20 
De  Saavedra,  Alv;tro,  20 
De  Torres,  Louis  Vaiz,  20 
Dead,  disposal  of  the,  75,  224 ; among 
the  pygmies,  275 
Death  customs,  133,  135 

of  Mr.  Stalker,  and  others,  82 

Decorative  arts  of  the  pygmies,  274 
Desertions,  strange,  of  the  Papuans, 
101 

Diet,  native,  49,  63,  239 
Disasters  on  coast  of  New  Guinea,  22 
Discoveries,  354 
Diseases,  133  ; malaria,  134 
Dishonoured  notes,  167,  232 
Dobo,  37,  170,  191 ; pearl-fishers,  232, 
359 

Dogs,  native,  124  ; of  the  pygmies,  255 
Drawings,  native,  185 
Dress  of  the  pygmies,  111,  255 
Drink  and  its  effects,  61 
Dutch  co-operation,  35 

Government,  kindness  of  the,  360 

in  New  Guinea,  21,  22 

section,  the,  29 

Dyak  recruits,  350 


E 

East  Indies,  division  of,  19 
Edwards,  21 

Electric  torch,  effects  of  an,  140 
Englehart  and  the  simple  life,  207 
Ethnological  discoveries,  354 
Explorers  of  New  Guinea — 

Dutch,  20,  21,  23 

English,  21 

Spanish  and  Portuguese,  19,  20 

Eye,  representations  of  the,  333 


F 

False  alarm,  a,  284 

Fauna  of  Mirnika  River,  87 ; of  the 
Wataikwa,  204 
Festival,  a pig,  160 
Fighting  at  Parimau,  96 
Fights,  village,  157 
Fire-drill,  the,  273 
Fire-making,  272 
Fire-plough,  the,  273 
Fire-saw,  the,  273 
Fire-sticks  of  the  pygmies,  111 
Fire-strap,  the,  273 
Fish,  340 

Fish-hooks,  native  made,  288 
Fishing,  native  method  of,  288 
Fishing-nets  of  spider’s  web,  289 
Flies,  New  Guinea,  199 
Floods,  128,  143,  175,  191,  206,  222, 
239,  300 

Flora  of  Mirnika  River,  86 

Flower-peckers,  151 

Fly-catchers,  151 

Fly  River,  the,  22 

Food  supplies,  31,  211 

Forest  growth,  density  of,  98,  99,  219 

Free  trade,  English  rights  of,  21 

Fruits  and  vegetables,  66 

Funeral  of  a Natu,  the,  224 

Future  life,  belief  in,  139 


G 

Game  in  New  Guinea,  64,  88 
Games  and  sports,  287 
Geographical  discoveries,  319,  354 
God,  belief  in,  138 
Godman,  Mount,  298,  318 
Gong,  an  old  brass,  104 
Goodfellow,  Walter,  28,  35,  45,  84,  103, 
170,  190,  200,  215,  217,  234 
Grant,  Mr.  C.  H.,  226,  243,  246,  247, 
298,  299,  325 


362 


INDEX 


Grass  helmets  of  the  pygmies,  111 
Greater  Bird  of  Paradise,  151,  216 
Greeting,  a Papuan,  43,  93 
Grey  mullet,  285 
Grub-bearing  palm,  the,  64 
Gurkhas,  engagement  of,  30,  33,  76, 
232,  360 

H 

Habits  and  manners,  181 
Hair  of  the  pygmies,  252 
Hairdressing,  native,  55 
Halley’s  comet,  193 
Harpoon,  the,  288 
Harrison,  Dr.  H.  S.,  265 
Hayes,  Captain,  21 

Headman  of  Nimb, 182 ; of  Wambirimi, 
262 

Herker  Jit,  310 

Highway  robbery  at  Parimau,  163 
Himalayan  suspension  bridges,  311 
Honey-eaters,  151 
Hornbill,  the,  106 

toughness  of,  87,  106 

Horse-shoe,  an  unlucky,  236 
Hospitality  at  Ibo,  146  ; at  Nime,  177 
House-moving,  148 

Houses,  native,  49 ; our  houses  at 
Wakatimi,  170 
Hurricane,  a,  329 

Huts  at  Parimau,  122;  on  piles,  175; 
pygmy,  255 

I 

Ibo,  the  track  to,  142;  village,  145, 196, 
198,  295 

Idenburg  Mountains,  227,  321 
Idols,  138 
Iguanas,  87 
Indolence,  native,  67 
Insect  pests,  90 
Instruments,  surveying,  220 
Iron  ore,  303 

Island  River  expedition,  321 
Iwaka  River,  Birds  of  Paradise  on  the, 
151,  212,  217,  244,  302 


J 

Jangbir,  the  plucky  Gurkha,  309,  336 
Jansz,  Captain  Willem,  20 
Japanese,  stature  of  the,  265 
Java,  35 

Javanese  coolies,  34,  154 
Jungle,  a New  Guinea,  204 
path,  116 


K 

Kaiqua  River,  the,  174,  179;  Kaiqua 
village,  180 

Kamura  River,  the,  145,  201,  334; 
village  of,  337 

Kaparb  River,  the,  99,  104,  105,  114, 
121,  188,  243,  322 
Kei  islanders,  189 
Kerosene  oil,  303,  320 

oil  tins,  value  of,  155 

Ketchang  Idjoe,  the,  232 
King  Bird  of  Paradise,  the,  150 
Knives,  value  of,  155 
Kokonau, 284 
Kolff,  22 

L 

Land  cultivation,  63 
Landing,  preliminary  negotiations,  43 
Language,  76;  difficulties,  112,  116, 
129 

of  signs,  76 

Launch,  European  necessity  of,  79 
Leeches,  90,  210,  229 
Le  Maine,  21 

Leonard  Darwin,  Mount,  318,  354 
Lombok  Island,  36 
Looking-glass,  the  effect  of  a,  154 
Loquacity  of  the  native,  187 
Lorentsz,  Dr.,  27,  303,  323 


M 

MacCluer,  Lieutenant,  21 
Macgregor,  22 
Mackellar,  Mr.  C.  D.,  235 
Maclay,  22 

Magnificent  Bird  of  Paradise,  151 
Malaria,  134,  200,  229 
Malays,  30 

Mamberano  expedition,  the,  231 
Mammals,  89,  125,  149 
Mangrove  swamp,  175 
Manucodes,  151 
Marriage,  131 

Marshall,  Dr.  E.,  29,  104,  121,  134,  142, 
152,  167,  196,  200,  217,  230,  281,  295, 
304 

Marsupials,  149 
Mataram , the,  356 
Mate  Dell,  21 

Measurements  of  pygmies,  115,  258 
Medicine,  native  ignorance  of,  134 ; 

appreciation  of,  229 
Mehesur  Sing,  360 
Merauke,  280 
Migration,  a,  340,  347 

363 


INDEX 


Milne  Bay,  20  ; tribes  in,  73 
Mimika  district,  disembarkation  in, 
30,  3S ; inhabited  portion  of,  53 ; 
cannibalism,  74;  customs,  131 
Mimika  River,  22  ; first  journey  up  the, 
45,47  ; natives’ welcome,  4S,  in  flood, 
7S  ; navigation  of,  85  ; flora  and  fauna 
of,  86-89  ; an  eastward  path,  127  ; 
a flood,  128,  191;  idol  in,  13S; 
Mimika  Papuan  not  an  expert  thief, 
166;  motor  launch  on  the,  194,  201, 
206,  292 

Monogamy  among  the  pygmies,  275 

Morality,  5S 

Moresby,  Admiral,  22 

Morning  on  the  Mimika  River,  92 

Mortality  amongst  the  Papuans,  230  ; 

amongst  the  expedition,  354 
Mosquito  nets,  233 
Mosquitoes,  89,  138,  199,  228 
Motor  launch,  190,  194,  235,  291,  330, 
336 

Mountain  home,  pygmies’,  117,  118 
Mountains,  Charles  Louis,  40 ; Car- 
stensz,  40,  102 ; Snowy  Range,  40 ; 
to  the  north,  202,  205,  312 
Murder  in  camp,  a double,  295 
Museum,  specimens  for  the,  353 
Music,  native,  281 

Musical  instruments  of  the  pygmies, 
274 

N 

Nassau  Range,  the,  220,  227,  243,  319 
Nata  and  the  snake,  140 
Natives,  hostility  of,  22,  reception  of 
Europeans,  42 ; boarding  the  Nias, 
44 ; curiosity,  52,  183 ; coast  tribes, 
53  ; up-river  natives,  53  ; pygmies, 
53  ; plainsmen,  53  ; hair-dressing,  55  ; 
morality,  58 ; clothing,  58 ; orna- 
mentation, 57,  59 ; effect  of  drink, 
61  ; children,  62  ; women,  63 ; diet, 
49,  63,  239 ; indolence  of,  67 ; 
desire  to  trade,  70 ; primitive  char- 
acteristics, 71  ; cannibalism,  71,  73  ; 
recuperative  powers  of  the,  135 ; 
courage,  139  ; aversion  from  work, 
152;  strange  conduct  of,  147,  197; 
types,  181 ; draughtsmanship,  185 ; 
loquacity,  187 ; gratitude,  230 ; 
numerals,  255 

Native  beaten  by  his  wife,  a,  61 
Natu,  the,  174,  224 
Navigation  of  Mimika  River,  85 
Necklaces  of  the  pygmies,  254 
Negritos  and  Negrillos,  267,  277 
Net-bags  of  the  pygmies,  253 


New  Guinea,  discovery  of,  19,  20 

christening  of,  20 

British  section  of,  20 

Spanish  and  Portuguese  in,  19, 

20 

Dutch  in,  21,  23 

travellers  in,  20-22 

Germans  in,  23 

British  possessions  in,  23 

difficulties  of  exploration,  24 

general  aspect  of,  38 

climate,  38 

first  impressions,  40 

arrival  at  the  coast,  41 

Game  in,  64 ; fruits  and  vege- 
tables, 66  ; fauna  and  flora,  86 
New  world,  discovery  of,  18 
Nias,  the,  40,  41  ; boarded  bv  savages, 
44,  82,  182 

Nime,  idol  at,  138;  village  of,  173; 

trade  at,  177  ; natives,  181,  346 
Nord  River,  the,  303,  323 
North  coast,  22 
Novelty  and  amusement,  186 
Numerals,  255 

O 

Obota,  village  of,  65,  104,  188;  river, 
191,  206 

“ Oewera-mina,”  130 
Oil,  303,  320 

Ornamentation,  personal,  57,  59 ; 

pygmy,  254 

P 

Paddling  and  poling,  153,  237 
Pain,  the  native’s  endurance  of,  140 
Papal  Bull,  a,  19 
Papua,  19,  20,  23 
Paradisea  Apoda  , 217  n. 

Parimau,  95,  121 ; huts  at,  122 ; cus- 
toms at,  132  ; snakes  at,  139  ; rob- 
bery at,  162;  natives.  169,  181,  185, 
199  ; flood  at,  222,  237,  239 
Periepia  River,  the,  105 
Pets  of  our  followers,  125 
Photography,  220 
Pictures  and  photographs,  184 
Pigeons,  289 

Pigs  at  Parimau,  123,  159 
Pile-dwellings,  272 
Pioneers  in  the  Americas,  18 
Pittars,  150 
Plainsmen,  53 

Plant  cultivation  among  the  pygmies, 
272 

Plum-pudding,  our,  326 

3G4 


INDEX 


Portlock,  21 

Portuguese  in  New  Guinea,  19,  20 
Postama,  Lieutenant,  320 
Precipice,  the  great,  102,  242,  318 
Prison  in  Dobo,  a,  37 
Privacy,  lack  of,  183 
Propeller,  loss  of  our,  344 
Prospecting  party,  the  first,  80 
Provisions,  stocking  the,  30 
Pubic  covering,  59  ; of  pygmies,  111 
Pulman,  118 

Puria  River,  the,  196,  206 
Pygmies,  27,  53  ; a chase,  108  ; origin, 
113  ; another  capture,  114  ; measure- 
ments, 115  ; a mountain  home,  117, 
118,  242,  249  ; hair,  252  ; dress,  253  ; 
ornaments,  254  ; weapons,  255  ; huts, 
255 ; women,  257 ; measurements, 
258,  264 ; and  plainsmen,  260 ; a 
headman,  262 ; physical  character- 
istics, 266  ; origin,  269;  use  of  stone, 
274  ; arts  and  crafts,  274;  ornamenta- 
tion, 274  ; musical  instruments,  274  ; 
tribal  organisation,  275  ; monogamy, 
275;  women,  275,  328 
Python,  a fine,  91,  216 


R 

Rains,  heavy,  75,  105,  200;  in  the 
Mimika  district,  218,  294 
Rats,  149,  193,  248 
Rattan  cuirasses,  255 
Reeves,  survey  instrument,  220 
Religion,  138 
Renaissance,  the,  17,  18 
Rifle  bird,  the,  210 
Rites  and  ceremonies,  131 
Robbery  on  the  river,  163 
Rock  formation  of  the  Iwaka  valley, 
303,  320 

Rothmeyer,  Commander,  190 
Route  chosen,  the,  36 
Route  to  the  north,  a,  75 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  29,  220 


S 

Sago  swamps,  104 
Salt  as  a trading  medium,  156,  186 
Savages  of  the  interior,  182 
Schouten,  21 

Secret  societies  and  customs,  138 
Semang,  the,  267,  277 
Shackleton,  Sir  E.,  29 
Shark-fishing,  68 
Shipwreck  story,  a,  72 


Shortridge,  G.  C.,  28,  106  ; and  the 
eastward  path,  126 ; and  the  rats, 
149,  185,  190,  226,  243,  280 
Sick,  care  of  the,  135 
Simian  origin  of  the  pygmies,  271 
Simple  life  in  New  Guinea,  the,  207 
Singing  by  the  men,  281 
Sixteenth  century,  life  in,  17,  18 
Six-wired  Bird  of  Paradise,  151 
Skin  colour  of  the  pygmies,  268 
Skulls,  a market  in,  137 
Slate,  303,  320 
Snakes,  91,  139,  210 
Snow  Mountains,  the.  See  Carstensz 
Soil,  fertility  of  the,  66,  98 
South-east  coast,  British  annexation  of, 
22 

Spaniards  in  New  Guinea,  19,  20 
Spice  Islands,  the,  19,  20 
Spiders’  webs  as  fishing-net,  289 
Staff,  the  European,  29 
Stalker,  W.,  28,  36;  death  of,  80, 
226 

Stature  of  the  Tapiro  pygmies,  266 
Stealing  amongst  the  Papuans,  166 
Steam  - launch  for  transport  work, 
169 

Stone  clubs,  178  ; implements,  273 
Stores,  our,  106,  226 
String  bags  of  the  pygmies,  111 
Sugar  palm-trees,  52,  61 
Sun*birds,  151 
Supplies  of  food,  31,  211 
Supply  and  demand,  the  natives’  con- 
ception of,  228 
Survey  Staff,  the,  27 
Surveying,  difficulties  of,  216  ; instru- 
ments, 220;  in  the  mountains,  317  ; 
the  east  coast,  330 
Swampy  land,  171 


T 

Tapiro  Peak,  219,  246,  322 
Tapiro  pygmies,  53,  110,  112,  130 
Taroke,  281 

Tasman,  Abel  Janez,  21 
Tattooing,  59,  69,  145 
Tea,  187 

Tears  in  welcome,  shedding  of,  94  n. 
Teeth,  filing  of  the,  74 
Teysmann,  22 
Timoura,  bay  of,  346 
Timoura  River,  the,  180 
Tin,  303 

Tobacco,  104  ; pygmy,  260 
Tools,  67 

365 


INDEX 


Torres  Straits,  discovery  of  the,  20 ; 

English  possession  of,  21 
Tourapava,  village  of,  170;  flood  at, 
192 

Trade  articles,  154  ; at  Nimt5, 177 
Trail,  forming  a,  98 
Transport  arrangements,  30  ; difficul- 
ties  of,  169 

Trees,  giant,  98  ; difficulties  of  felling, 
120,  227 

Tribal  marks,  145 

Tribal  organisation  of  the  pygmies, 
275 

Tropical  jungle,  density  of  the,  227 
Tuaba  River,  the,  143 ; village,  147, 
200,  206,  241,  300  ; Mountain,  520 
Types  of  natives,  181 
Twelve-wired  Bird  of  Paradise,  151 


U 

Union  Jack,  the,  43 
Up-river  tribes,  53,  95,  181 
Utakwa  River,  the,  34,  280,  320 


V 

Volk,  the,  291 

Van  der  Bie,  Lieutenant,  320 
Van  Herwerden,  42 
Vegetation,  luxuriant,  122 ; along  the 
Atoeka  River,  188  ; on  the  Wataikwa, 
204,  209,  304,  314 
Village  brawls,  96,  157 
Villages,  36  ; Wakatimi,  48,  49 
Vocabulary,  compiling  a,  76 
Von  Daalen,  General,  33 


W 

Wailing  as  a welcome,  138 
Wakatimi,  48,  61,  103,  121  ; hospital 
at,  153;  natives,  169;  camp,  170; 
flood  at,  191 ; illness  at,  235 
Wallace,  22 
Wambirimi,  247 

Wania  Village,  165  ; River,  235,  340, 342 
Wataikwa  River,  the,  196 ; course  of, 
203 ; fauna  and  flora  of,  204,  206, 
217,  244,  300  ; source  of,  306 
Water  sport  amongst  the  natives,  287 
Watuka  River,  the,  47,  84,  149,  293 
Welcome  of  Europeans,  native,  47 
Welcome  by  women,  an  extraordinary, 
93 

Whisky,  effects  of,  on  a native,  187 
Widows,  dress  worn  bv,  59;  “ weeds,” 
136 

Wilhelmina  Peak,  322,  323 
Wives,  treatment  of,  96,  132,  169 
Wollaston,  A.  F.  R.,  28,  97,  104,  117, 
121,  152,  167,  200,  230,  280,  291,  301, 
321,  355 

Women,  position  of,  63  ; extraordinary 
welcome  by,  93  ; in  Parimau,  95  ; in 
Ibo,  146;  as  carriers,  148;  pygmy, 
257,  275  ; dancers,  282 


Y 

Yule,  Lieutenant,  22 


Z 

Zoological  collecting,  286,  288 
Zwaan,  the,  190,  349,  356 


Printed  by  Ballantyne,  Hanson  & Co. 
Edinburgh  &•  London 


